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Routes in Monkey Face for selected grade

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Showing all 17 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Turkey Walls
19 Bereska

A classic wall, thin crack to rooflet and awkward mantle finish. DRB lower off. The upper part of the loose pillar has been removed in 2021, unearthing a good hand crack for gear. The lower part of the pillar vibrates but seems solid. Considered a sandbag at 19 by most people, was a test piece of the 80s.

FA: David Gray & Craig Martin, 1984

Mixed trad 18m, 2
19 Killer’eska

Start up Killer clowns direct to clip its third bolt then step down and traverse left into Bereska at the thin crack and finish up that route.

Mixed trad 17m, 3
Big Banana Buttress & The Extremes
19 Interlude

Climb RS for a few metres then lunge right, across the hanging wall to a wide break, and join Apple Arete near it's first belay.

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1985

Trad 10m
Stopper Walls
19 Clear and present danger

Step right from the belay ledge at the top of Stoppers first pitch, then follow bolts up a fragile wall to DRBs

Set: Vanessa Wills

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, 2013

Sport 15m, 5
Smear Slabs
19 Giraffe

"requires a long neck" climb the slab between Live 'n' Learn and Without a Lead. Need bolt plates.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1983

Sport 10m, 2
19 Jear to Delerium

The slab with 3 ring bolts. Holds diminishing and grade rising over time Start: At the DUBB on ledge. Go right to chain anchors.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1984

Sport 15m, 3
The Ramparts
19 Plagiarism (Variant)

As for PB, but halfway along traverse head straight up overhung wall on jugs to DBB

FA: John Wilde & George Feig, 1988

Trad 25m
19 R Garbage Blaster

The scooped weakness right of 'Apocalypse', in the middle of he wall, finishing at the end of the 'Plagiarism Blues' diagonal at same DBB. Large cams in pockets provide some protection, or top rope after doing PB

FA: John Wilde, 1984

Trad 26m
19 Red-Belly Black Flake

Pocketed wall then the right hand flake / corner, just left of the corner of 'Terminally in Traction' to DBB. Optional 0.75 cam between bolt 2 and 3. Rebolted 2021, originally had 2 bolts

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1985

Sport 25m, 4
Lower Crag
19 Drop Pilot

Climb the right side of the arete past 2 BR to a very bold finish via a seam on the arete. Has been rebolted. Sling tree to finish.

FA: John Wilde & David Gray, 1983

Mixed trad 10m, 2
Middle Crag
19 Marmite

Start 2m left of Vengeance, following RBs through pockets to flake then up overhang. Anchors to the left

FA: V Wills & D Gray, 2013

Sport 12m, 5
19 Vengemite

Wall and groove right of Vengeance with 4 rings to double ring bolt belay.

FA: Dave Gray & Vanessa Wills, 2013

Sport 12m, 6
19 Davafly

The middle of the slab right of Coming At Ya. Start from top of block, stick clip first bolt. DBB

FA: David Gray, Vanessa Wills & Flynn Cooper, Sep 2021

Sport 10m, 3
19 Crimson Tinge

Boulder the wall right of 'Crimson & Clover' past a ring bolt, stick clip recommended. Finish up crack to DBB. Originally graded 16.

FA: David Gray, 1983

Mixed trad 15m, 1
19 Int-Arete-Sting

Steep layaways up the left side of the knife edged arete.

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1983

Mixed trad 6m, 1
19 Fine Time

Classic wall/slab. Start just left of the corner (Orchward), 2m right of Science Fiction. Balance climbing leads past 2 RBS to a horizontal break. Move left onto the bulge for the better finish.

FA: David Gray & Rob Stowe, 1983

Mixed trad 12m, 2
South Face
19 Dry Gasp

A steal! Climb the thin crack 2m right and down from the start of Paul’s Peril. Continue up the wall passing 2 bolts and a large Friend break.

FA: John Wilde & Darrin Gray, 1984

Mixed trad 25m, 2

Showing all 17 routes.

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