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Description

Compact iron-stone faced wall with solid holds with a small roof, at half height, along the western half of the wall. The first 4 routes are on the wall to the left

Approach

Straight up the hill from the car park, past the "Little Cobbler" boulder

Routes

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Grade Route

Left most route on left wall of central buttress. 25 m left of Oberon, walk through vegetation then up to base of this sector. The route is just right of where track meets wall

FA: Vanessa Wills, Jun 2018

2m right of RS. Veer right to seam then back into groove to anchors

FA: Vanessa Wills, Jun 2018

Diagonal crack that takes a lot of #2 cams. Steep start onto slab. Near top of crack step left to tree anchor above small roof

Offwidth corner crack following roof left then up. Small trees for anchors. Eats #4 and # 5. Some medium cam placements possible . Will hopefully get a DBB

Up juggy arête left of chimney, or grovel up chimney if you would rather after clipping first bolt. Step right across gap then traverse delicately under roof to finish as for GGHB.

Right of chimney on left side of wall. Start high enough to reach horizontal crimp, then up scalloped arête to flake, through roof to arête finish under orchids

FA: Vanessa Wills & John Hollott, Nov 2016

A right hand start to GGHB to roof, then up to shared anchors. Thin wall climbing past 2 bolts, easier if you're tall!

Set by Vanessa Wills, 2017

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, 2018

Boulder a short orange wall, past a bolt, below the roof. Straight through roof, passing 2 more bolts to double ring lower-off

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1986

Up to the left of the cave in the centre of the wall. Through small roof avoiding orchids, then mantle up to easier finish

FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, Sep 2016

Climb over orange cave, over roof and up vague flake, passing 5 more bolts to lower-offs

FA: David Gray, Darrin Gray & John Wilde, 1986

Climb wall past cam slot to bolt above roof, then follow the arch passing 3 more bolts to lower-off. Stick-clip the first bolt to make this a sport climb or, for full value, boulder the initial wall past the cam slot.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1986

Start at the flake, being careful of the ironing board. Essentially a variant start to AMND but with good new climbing. Anchors above small roof. The climb will feel easier if you are taller, especially the finish.

FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, Sep 2016

Start at right end of wall. Original route started up a mossy ramp under fig tree before cam pockets and 4 bolts. It is now fairly mossy and has been partly superseded by the new route to the left.

FA: john Wilde, 1986

Activity

Check out what is happening in Central Buttress.