Routes as trad in Southern Ocean Wall

Abseil off bolts to the most northerly abseil gully (marked by large cairn) to a large ledge halfway down cliff line at the end of the gully. Climb up right of arete and go left over roof and up continue up arete to finish.

Abseil 50m down blunt arete to large belay ledge. Start up corner and move left past bolt an onto face and continue up staying left of arete.

Abseil down arete for 40 m into niche. If wet, start from above niche on drier rock. Go up face staying as close to the arete as possible.

From base of abseil gully climb cracks on left up face to overlap before moving right. Layback the flake then head straight up.

Rap of two bolts (require hangers) to a ledges. Climb up crack systems to top.

Start a few meters right of Curly and go up offwidth onto face

Good exposed climbing on a nice clean wall. Excellent rock, well protected and enjoyable at the grade. Abseil 50m from the top of the Sunshine Superman wall just north of The Supergroove at the 2 hex bolts on the boulder that caps the wall. Looking down from the top of the overhang you will see a large flake system. When you pass an eyebolt after 30m or so trend north slightly to the staircase ledges and belay on large cams. Pitch 1, 30m. Up the blocky crack system and past a series of horizontal breaks to a curving fingercrack and bolt (crux). Belay just after this on the ledge to the right. Pitch 2, 20m. Step left from the belay and head straight up the wall on thin protection to finish directly through the small roof. J. O Herlihy, K. Hartley, M. Rosser. Feb. 11

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/

(i) (18) Start as for A Shot At Redemption, move delicately up and over the arête (crux), then step left onto the face. Follow the aesthetic meandering crack up the face to belay ledge. (ii) (15) Continue up large blocks to finish.

Start as for a shot at redemption, following pinch flakes to arête which is turned on the left. Follow wall left of arête (avoiding crack of let them sort it out) to ledge using horizontals for gear. To top as for 'a shot..'

One of the first routes done at West Cape Howe, and perhaps a little sandbagged. Climb the offwidth/chimney width crack immediately left of Planar Craving. This route is often wet and very slimy.

Classic! Climb up steepening slab using small cracks and flakes for protection. This climb gets harder as you get higher. Finish at hanging DBB.

Seven bolts and a few bits of gear. Similar to Planar Craving but climb on right side of slab. Excellent finish up the steep headwall.

Follow left trending weaknesses ad cracks to obvious large horizontal crack and construct belay. Climb up vertical cracks to cave and skirt out rightwards.

Start as for plumb Jamb then go right and through roof rather than escaping left. continue up seam until about 2m lower than the plumb Jamb belay ledge. Place extended pro then traverse back and finish as for Plumb Jamb.

Hangers required for bolts.

Pitch 1 (22) 45m: Start up crack to the right of Plumb Jamb. Move right and up steepening wall. Avoid large horizontal breaks on arete until you meet the arete.

Pitch 2 (14) 25m: Up easy ground to top. Loose blocks

Abseil further down the gully trending over to the northern side passing the base of Easy Day For The Gentlemen to a square cut ledge to belay on medium to large cams. Pitch 1, Gr 13, 10m Step across to the wall and traverse left on the two large horizontal cracks to a double bolt belay in a fantastic position on the small triangular platform capped by a roof on the arête. Pitch 2, Gr 14, 30m Traverse right a couple of metres from the belay then straight up the middle of the wall past a bolt (hanger required) and into the fingercrack. Continue up and right to belay on a small ledge just left of the chimney. Pitch 3, Gr 12, 30m Either meander up the wall above (Gr12) or better, climb up and right from the belay a few metres then step across the chimney and climb the upper section of Easy Day. Finish at the eyebolts. J. O Herlihy K. Hartley Feb 12

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/

Abseil off bolts on top of Supergroove. 60m rope will get you down groove a fairway where it is possible to scramble down 10m to large ledge. Otherwise, do a double abseil. Fist pitch: Climb up vertical weaknesses on right side of arete to a small roof. Climb left of roof, then out left to double bolt belay (needs hangers) on a small triangular ledge. Second pitch: Keep right of arete.

As for Orion but start directly below blunt arete in front of headwall at the base of climb on platform. Take direct line straight up the wall and continue on as for Orion to 1st belay

Starts down near Jump for Joy and Tripping Upstairs. Can be reached from the chains on the ledge where BM starts with an extra 15m or so of static or alternatively use your lead rope. An excellent varied line. Climb the superb face on the clean west facing wall on edges and flakes past the horizontal cracks until a couple of metres below the roof. Traverse right and step over the void at the layback crack. Up this, then onto the arête and face on good holds to the top. Bridge the final slab and finish at the DBB. 6 bolts (hangers required) plus small cams and wires. K. Hartley. J. O Herlihy. Feb 12.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/

Conspicuous line of 6 U-bolts.

Start as needles eye staying out of the crack then head up left arête all on natural gear to belay bolts on crown of thorns 40m gr14.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/

10m left of crown of thorns stand on large boulder then fire up arête 3 bolts and small to med gear to dbl bolt belay.enjoy

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Takes the line up the west facing wall on the buttress to the left of Needles Aye. Start just left of the large flake and trend up and slightly left past three ring bolts. Through the overlap and up the middle of the slab passing some more bolts and various natural protection to finish at eyebolts. J. O Herlihy, K. Hartley. Feb. 11

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/

Gnarly hand crack up the bulging west wall. Easy to spot. Watch out for killer swallows and bird shit.

Nice climbing and great rock on the north facing wall with the obvious diagonal crack, (below Body Builder). You can get to the start by abseiling from the top of WOB (north side of gully) then trending south to a directional bolt (american hanger) and down to the chains on the spacious ledge. Step across the crevasse onto the middle of the wall and a bolt. Head up and slightly left past another two bolts toward the diagonal crack, along this then straight through the overlap past two more bolts to finish at the DBB (Hangers required). Take small to medium cams. J. O Herlihy, K Hartley. Feb 12.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/

Located on the south facing wall of the huge block at the top of First Route Gully. Approach by abseil from the two bolts at the top (hangers required). Belay in the gully at the base of the short wide crack. Up this, then climb the superb clean slab and arête passing 3 bolts (hangers required) with small to medium cams in the horizontal breaks.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/ K. Hartley, M. Rosser. Feb. 11

The right trending hand crack opposite Fishbone Arete finishing at a lower-off. K. Hartley. J. O Herlihy Feb 12.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/

18/19?

Just right of The Truth is a great steep face climb that ends at the same lower-off. We top roped it the day we bolted it but never got back to tick it. It takes some small cams and has three bolts (hangers required) Go get it!

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/

Sustained climbing up the obvious steep north facing wall and arête of the huge block. Approach via a short abseil from the two hex bolts above the wide corner crack.. Pre-place the first draw and clip your lead rope to it on abseil.(Really needs to be rebolted!) Up the offwidth to the large horizontal break. Traverse right to the undercling, then up to a good edge near the second bolt. Continue traversing right (crux) then head up the face trending right to the arête and get a bit of a rest. Continue up the face and arête passing a couple more bolts to the victory jug. 6 bolts (hangers required, sorry!) K. Hartley, Feb 12.

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Start at the base of the thin crack and arête left of KFAD on the short west facing wall. Up the crack that takes a small cam to a stance on the small boulder. Climb the arête passing two bolts (hangers required). K. Hartley. J. O Herlihy, Feb 12.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/

Clip the high bolt just right of MATD and dyno from the crescent shaped crimp to the horizontal crack. Traverse left and finish up the arête. Good luck!

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/

Access via abseil from the two ring bolts located just below the top of the gully on the north side Nice climbing starting next to the cairn halfway down the gully to the right of a bolt. Up the slab through horizontal cracks and flakes before moving towards the arête as it steepens near the top. 3 bolts (hangers required) and natural protection. Finish at the abseil anchor. J. O Herlihy, K. Hartley. Feb 12.