Routes as trad in Coke Ovens Cliff

Start 50m right of narrow gully.

1. 6m Up to tree.

2. 36m Crack to ledge then corner to tree,

3. 6m Chimney to top.

Start 5m right of FF.

1. 18m Corner to ledge.

2. 18m Crack to roof then traverse left to ledge.

3. 9m Wall to top.

A route marred by poor bolting. Has now returned to moss where it counts halfway. Take a full rack of cams. Take care.

Start 45m right of FS.

1. 41m (16) Up blocks to start in corner. Up to ledge.

2. 11m Up crack to ledge.

3. 41m Right to cracks, up crack to chimneys and corners then to top.

Start 7m right of D.

Crack to ledge that joins up with D.

Start 25m right of DV.

1. 15m Up corner.

2. 40m Corner and left crack. Up to tree.

3. 40m Corner to top.

Start 25m right of E.

1. 25m (18) Shimmy up and onto wall then up to corner.

2. 25m Corner then over roofs.

3. 25m Crack to corner, over roof then right.

4. 25m Arete to top.

This soaring corner was an audacious effort for 1971. Great climbing but most rap off after pitch 2 at carrots with maillons to avoid choss on pitch 3. 38m to ground.

Start 100m right of T3 beneath a huge arc.

1. 18m Crack to cave/recess. Continue on crack to ledge.

2. 20m (21)Crack to ledge beneath double roofs. Bolted anchor.

3. 18m Over roofs, up arc to end of cracks. Onto ledge then left to cave/recess.

4. 9m (unprotected) Up wall then trend right to cave.

Superb 2 pitch face climb on mixed gear. Mostly bolted bolt plates needed. Starts at 8m high crack 20 m right of ITNM. Up crack, then follow 7 bolts right to flake via hole, and up to DRBB 30m from ground. Third bolt is difficult to clip. Follow 9 B for pitch two to abseil anchor

Start 60m right of ITNOM.

1. 8m Corner to tree.

2. 15m Corner to chimney.

3. 24m (15) Chimney, around chockstone then up to tree.

4. 18m Chimney, corner then to top.

Start 20m right of T.

Up line to slab, trend left to ledge and join Taafa.

Start 15m right of TV.

Corner to ledge. Tree anchor. link up with Taafa.

Start 13m right of TV.

Start 15m right of TV.

10m Crack to ledge then link up with Blasphemy.

Start 4m right of BV.

1. 24m (15) Crack, chimney to tree.

2. 24m Crack to tree.

3. 6m Wall to top.

Start 30m right of Blasphemy.

1. 18m Chossy corner to tree.

2. 32m Left then up wall to bushy ledge.

Start as for EW.

1. 18m

2. 15m Left crack then up to ledge.

3. 15m Nose then right to crack and up.

Start 35m right of MC. Scramble 10m to belay at corner.

1. 27m Up groove.

2. 46m Move up and right along ledge to chimney.

3. 18m Chimney.

Start 35m right of BO.

1. 36m Up to ledge then to left crack.

2. 18m Crack to cave.

3. 18m (15) Crack to ramp.

Face 5m left of Publish or Perish. Bridge off tree then 5 stainless carrots followed by small to medium natural gear in vertical runnels. At small ledge escape left and up to natural belay. Direct finish difficult to protect, so more bolts and possibly lower offs to be added.

Start as for DS.

Trend right.

Start 25m right of DEC.

1. Up Overhanging flake crack.

2. Up crack.

Start 20m right of MA.

1. Up crack.

2. Up line to top.

Start as for KT.

1. 42m (22) up several meters then traverse right to bolt. Up past 2 bolts then move right. Up and trend left to bolt. Up to ledge.

2. 15m To top.

Start 30m right of IW.

1. 25m (21) Past 2 bolts then further up passing 2 more bolts to DBB.

2. 23m Trend left to bolt then to flake to find bolt.

3. 32m Up flake then to top.

Start 15m right of S.

1. 22m Corner to base of corner.

2. 15m Corner to roof.

3. 15m (20) Left through roof.

4. 20m Corner to top.

A mammoth line. The first pitch is the quintessential corner crack - with great pro and moves and can be done as a classic pitch in its own right. Pitch 2 has some moments finding way through hanging blocks to nice exposed seats on top of blocks under roof with bomber belay gear a move higher. Pitch 3 is exhilarating and a must do adventure. Pitch 4 starts up a clean corner crack , onto a ledge, pull over the steep bulge and up to a nice belay.

Rap beta: Using the tree with slings, from the top a 50m rap to the top of P1. Another 20m rap from there to the ground.

Up the beautiful hand crack corner then easily to thread and piton belay.

Start as for WR.

1. As for WR.

2. As for WR.

3. 8m (17) Traverse left and up to horizontal. Traverse to arete.

4. 40m Up arete.

The arete / slab just right of 'The Wars Of The Roses', ending at the same 1st pitch belay. Hard start, then rapidly eases off.

Start 20m right of WR on ledge.

1. 8m Up to ledge.

2. 30m (16) Corner to roof. Traverse right then up to roof.

3. 36m Up and scramble off.

Start 20m right of CD.

1. 15m Corner to ledge.

2. 12m Corner to ledge then on as for OG.

Start as for OGV.

1. 15m Corner.

2. 13m Corner to ledge then overhang chimney.

3. ? (14) Corner to cave, right then up slab and back to crack. Up to ledge.

4. 27m Left hand gully then walk right.

The first climb to be put up at the Coke Ovens.

Start 12m right of MO at small twin corners.

1. 27m (14**) Up easily to big tree at foot of crack. Follow crack directly up to 3-stemmed tree on good ledge & belay on tree.

2. 33m (13) Easily up into cave. Move right onto arete, then directly up crack to large tree in crack, Around tree without killing your belayer by dropping rubble, up arete and wall on right to tree belay.

Start 5m right of OG.

1. 27m Up to start of crack and belay.

2. 9m Up OG or take left side of wall.

Up and right a bit to a rotten cave. Up left edge of cave to a break below a roof. Move left and swing around roof to a corner. Up to glory

Start 1m right of OGVII.

1.30m Up to ledge. Bolt Anchors.

1. 45m (17) Right then up to top.

Start 5m right of WSB.

Flake and up to cave. Up arete to join BO.

Start 4m right of CF.

1. 9m Up crack.

2. 36m Corner and overhang to belay.

3. 27m Up corner to ledge. Exit left.

4. 9m Move right above P3, up corner to top.

Beautiful looking orange wall up top. Same start as Barrel Organ.

Pitch 1: 35m, Grade AU 18. Take medium cams, wires and bolt plates.

Climb 6m to a ledge (good pro). Bouldery move to get on the slabby face (cairn is establish to step on, high left foot). Follow the line of carrot bolts which can be run out, keep your eye out for any placements. Step right for a semi hanging 2BB.

Pitch 2: 30m, Grade AU 20

Hug the arete for the first few moves, climb up and don't forget to admire the might chossy crack roof of "Virgin of the Ridiculous". Thin moves to the left lead to some questionable rock which provides ample rest before the real fun begins (crux, fixed hanger). Pretty thin and sustained afterwards (carrot bolts and cams).

Descent:

Rap 1: 50m from the two carrot bolts at the top, they have permanently established bolt plates and locking carabiners on them. Land on the big ledge next to the huge tree.

Rap 2: 10m to the ground. Use the tree as an anchor.

Start 5m right of BO.

1. 50m Corner to back of cave.

2. 20m Through roof and up.

3. 30m Corner to top.

Variant start for VOTR. 10m up BO then right to cave. Around to join VOTR.

Start 5m right of VOTR. Past 3 bolts to DBB at break.

Start 6m right of H.

Up to bolt then pass another bolt. Right then up to bolt. Trend left to DBB belay off H.

Start up Virgin on the Ridiculous to a sandy ledge, continue up to a bolt then traverse around the arete past two carrots to belay on Flying a Kite.

Mixed route on carrots. Take many bolt plates (11!) plus medium-sized cams. To access climb Harlem, Mother's Drugs or Virgin Flight.

Start 4 right of MD.

1. 20m (23) Flake to crack then to break. Right to anchor of Cactus.

2. 18m Left and up small corner to top of slab.

3.48m Right and up ramp and corner.

1. 8m Scramble to top.

Mixed climbing, three carrots and DRBB. Wires on the first flake, committing move to carrot, then easy up funky feature with threads and carrots all the way. Don't need any cams. Does need a bolt to protect the crux at the start. Retro-bolt of an old death route, should have been retro'd properly.

Stem and crack climb your way to glory.

Start: Start 6m R of 'Agent Orange' at initial 'C' in a cave with a fine corner crack leading out of the top.

1. 21m (18) Up steep finger crack corner to ledge. Belay on Cams, wires.

2. 15m (18) Continue up thin crack and overhang to ledge and belay behind the tree.

3. 30m (18) Follow the R-facing corner to large bulbous tree. Up the dirty slot behind to a good ledge.

4. 12m (16) Up corner to ledge. Step left (around arete) to Rap anchor or continue another 10m to top.

Descent: Abseil 40m to a small ledge with two ring bolts just left of pitch 2 belay, then abseil 35m to the ground.

1. 18m (19) Follow the right facing corner to a ledge with a thread belay.

2. 13m (19) Up the overhanging corner to a tricky move to reach the arete, belay on a small ledge.

3. 21m (16) Continue up the crack and corner to a ledge. Belay from trees.

Descent: Abseil 49 metres from the trees.

Start marked DC 7m left of Grunter corner.

P1 - 40m (14). Straight up wall (8 carrots and a couple of small to medium cams). Veer right at last bolt, clip next bolt then head up to small ledge and 3BB.

P2 - 20m (11) Up slab (2BR) and wide crack above then right to good ledge. Multi BB and chains at top of Dan the Bulldog P2.

Straight up wall (8 carrots and a couple of small to medium cams). Stop at chains at 30m and lower back to the deck.

Originally led with a 120 foot rope and two pieces of gear - the tree at 10m and a piton bashed in a hole (removed on second). Andrew Penney unknowingly bolted a similar line going straight up, 'Death-bed Confession'. An ascent of Sod in the original style is no longer possible but its description is preserved below. Start 4m left of Grunter at the foot of an easy angled face (Sod Wall).

1. 45m (13) Up wall (tree runner at 10m) then up trending slightly left to arete and up to cave. Peg belay.

2. 15m Up the arete to tree anchor.

3. 24m Out onto ledge to the left, around nose and up to top. Tree anchor.

Start below the tree. First pitch (15) is 40m with 7 bolts. Runout to 2 rusty bolts right by each other not far from the tree, and then 5 above the tree. A 2 bolt belay leads into the 2nd 20m pitch (17) with 4 bolts and a 2.5 friend. The bolts are not all easy to spot. Chains and ring on ledge.

From the chains at the top of “Dan the Bulldog”, mantle the ledge on the right and traverse 5m right, then follow the short finger crack up under rooflet. Over rooflet and stem to the top. Belay off tree 5m from edge.

Originally climbed as part of trying to reach the upper coke ovens cliff from the top of the Knuckle.

Pro is mildly spaced but there.

Follow corner crack to abseil sling on tree

Fantastic hand crack widening to offwidth. Most don't bother with pitches 2 and 3.

Start: At the crack 3 m R of Grunter.

1. 30m (19) Overcome the overhang then jamb your way to the hearts of millions. Now has rings in addition to the traditional tree anchor on large ledge. Best with 2 x #4 C4s for the offwidth.

2. 30m (-) Up dirty chimney.

3. 21m (-) Up corners to top

All the old carrots have now been replaced with rings. This now provides a very convenient awesome single pitch route with rings at the first belay to rap off or continue up the two upper pitches.

One of the classics of the cliff. Varied climbing.

Start: At marked 'MM' at large flake crack.

1. 25m (16) Up flake to top of pedestal. 3BB.

2. 20m (18) Up wall diagonally L to BR. Continue diagonally L (poor pro) easily to ledge (feel free to add a bolt) then up to ledge with a small tree and 2 rings .

3. 20m (17) Up to ledge and across 8m L to ledge then up slab and groove on R (2BR) to stance at base of L-facing corner with a small tree and 2BB.

4. 25m (18) Up corner to cruxy top-out. Tree anchor.

Descent = rap 50 m from slim tree 10 m East (R facing valley; look out for loose rock) to large ledge (top of Sizzler) and rap rings. 40 m rap.

Up short hand crack to ledge, then up sand filled finger crack to diagonal squeeze chimney. Up through to detached pedestal.

Pitch 2 belay tree now has sling and locker, it is possible to lower off this to the ground using a single 80m

1. 18m (18) Aesthetic fingertips corner up to a bolted anchor in a sandy cave. Most only do this good pitch.

2. 21m (-)

3. 30m (-)

4. 30m (-)

1. 34m (15) Up lovely corner to two bolt belay/lower off. Takes many #2 & 3 camalots. Watch rope length when descending off first pitch! You can make it on a single 60m doubled if you swing over towards decline and fall.

2. 9m (17)

3. 13m (-)