Routes in Nanaimo and the Mid-Island for selected grade

The obvious dihedral left of Sendero.

Closed project. Starts up a wide crack to a ledge, then follows a slabby dihedral to the top of the ridge.

The arete at the right end of the main wall. Great crack climbing near the top.

The route to the right of the dead pine tree in the middle of the cliff. The easiest route on the wall and a good warm up. The crux is the final couple moves before the anchor.

Has top anchor hooks, for lowering only.

The right facing bolted dihedral near the right end of the wall. The last route to dry on this wall, seeping most of the year. This corner is also the garbage chute for the cliff above, so you’ll likely need to clean as you climb.

Rescrubbed Sept/23.

A hidden gem of a trad climb. Delicately come out from under the starting overhang and follow a finger width corner crack that takes gear well. The top tends to be gritty due to runoff from the upper climbing ledge.

Located on the short wall just as you come up out of the cave along the trail below Pooh Wall area. Climb the dihedral at the left end of the wall, starting from an elevated ledge.

Rescrubbed Nov/23

Rightmost route on Pooh Wall. Follows right arete.

Starts up the arete then goes left through a large pocket and up the face. Often wet, the last route to dry at the crag. Scrambling up the dirt slope on the left at the start bypasses the crux.

Shares the first bolt with god is AFK. Line going left of that bolt

Shares the same first bolt as Lineage. Route that goes right from that bolt

The route up the arete on the right edge of the central slab. Check out the coal inclusion in one of the big pockets.

Rightmost route at Kingswood. The bottom seeps literally all year, so it’s OK to climb it when wet.

The left of the two routes around the corner on the spire.

The right of the two routes around the corner on the spire.

The chimney route starting in the large crack between the spire and adjacent wall. Polished rock.

The crack to the right of the big leaning tree. Good gear for the first half, then a couple ok placements, then one bolt just below the anchor.

Follows a lie back crack up a smooth, slabby dihedral.

Has top anchor hooks, for lowering only.

The first route on the left after you climb up out of the grotto. Scramble up the gully a bit to get to the start.

The uneven corner crack in the middle of the wall. Where the crack forks mid route, take the left crack.

Requires big gear (4-5”). Move up the big crack past several blocks to a small cave mid route, then follow the small dihedral crack to the anchors.

Leftmost route at the Colosseum, around the corner from the main area.

The left route on the first wall you see as you walk on the approach trail (entrance wall). Shares top two bolts and anchor with Vector.

Quite steep for the grade but has plenty of big round jugs.

The short trad crack on the left as you enter the main crag. Good beginner lead with solid and plentiful gear placement opportunities.

Climb the broken flake system on the right side of the central gulley. Pro is finicky due to the nature of the rock, and getting onto the midway ledge is awkward and likely the crux. Better climbing for the top half.

A unique climb. To reach the start, scramble down into the “alligator pit” where Compound Fracture starts, then scramble up the far end of it and onto a mossy ledge. There is a belay bolt on the wall behind the ledge. Start the climb by stepping across the airy gap, then move up the slab on thin edges and small flakes. Very Skaha-like.

The bolted route up the arete just to the right of Aspire to Be. Start by stepping across a small chasm.

A low first bolt protects the first few moves before the climb enters an excellent crack up the slab. Located on the west wall just to the right of the spire.

Very steep and overhung for the grade. A combination of lie backs and chimney moves keeps it relatively tame. Located on the back side of the same detached block as Clear Cut.

Climb the left arete on the short west facing aspect of the farthest satellite wall at the crag.

The right most of the three climbs on this short wall.

Follows the obvious curving crack in the center of this wall. Shares the last three bolts and anchors with Monkey Man.

Re cleaned Sept/22. The left of the two obvious corner crack systems on the wall. Plentiful gear opportunities, need up to #3 and a #4 is helpful.

Start far left on the frontside of the Boulder and traverse on the top rail to the peak

The right side/arete of the detached Boulder

Stand on the rock on the right side of the wall, and traverse the lip of the boulder.

Fully bolted now, (optional mixed/trad)

To the right of Rusty Ranger

Rescrubbed Sept/21

Rescrubbed Sept/21

Rescrubbed Aug 2021

Leftmost route on lower pitch of A Wall, following a diagonal line that stays barely above a series of dirty ledges to its left. Use this climb to access Eagle Eye and Epiphysis above.

The obvious wide crack near the left end of the left wall. Good gear placements in a wide (4”-5”) crack lead to a small ledge. Stemming and face climbing through three bolts then leads to the anchor.

The long diagonal crack that spans the entire crag from bottom right to upper left.