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Plakias Main Cliff

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 212
  • Aka: Paligremnos
  • Aka: Tile

Seasonality

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Summary

Description

A beach side crag with routes of all grades and different style on what seems land a laser cut vertical wall (up to 45m).

Northwest facing crag, shade most of the day. Mostly vertical limestone with some cracks, pockets and a tufa or two. Overlooking the Libyan sea on the south side of the island of Crete. With only two dozen routes you can climb this area out in 2 days. The Beach is only a few meters away.

This is a huge slab! Some really hard routes are here. The main cliff of Plakias is just a few meters away from the beach (superb for swimming) with excellent quality of rock and up to 80 meters high. Some bolts need to be replaced but most of them are ok to climb. It faces north west and is possible to climb almost all day even during the summer. There is a camping to stay and plenty of hotels in the area. to reach the clmbing routes all you need is a 2 minutes walk. There are some fantastic routes in this area.

Virtual topo video. Video 2. 3D-Topo.

Some info also available here:

Featured in "Greece - Sport Climbing: The Best Of", Aris Theodoropoulos, 2nd edition 2017, ISBN 9789609456210.

And in "Climbing in Crete - From North to South", Phillipe Bugada, 2009, ISBN 9782952637817.

Approach

(35.180561, 24.402740)

The crag is on the south side of the beach in Plakias. Park on the side of the road near the Plakias (2 star) hotel (35.1808291, 24.4021086). From there you can already see the crag.

Rent a car at the airport or ferry terminal or take the public bus from Rethimnon to Plakias. The wall is a 5 to 10 minute walk depending on where you stay. It's on the East end of the beach. Hard to miss!

Where to stay

One option is right at the hotel the closest to the crag: https://maps.app.goo.gl/9Nannt5v15AkvCDRA

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Raymund Kosir

Crete North to South 5a+, Best of Greece 5b.

FA: Raymund Kosir

FA: Raymund Kosir

Best of Greece 6a, Crete North to South 6a+.

FA: Raymund Kosir

Best of Greece 6b, Crete North to South 6b+.

FA: Raymund Kosir

FA: Raymund Kosir & M. Kampourakis

Quite a nice endurance line with a bit of a technical crux near the top.

FA: R. Kosir & M. Kampourakis

FA: Aris Mavromatis, 2007

FA: Aris Mavromatis, 2007

Crete North to South 7b, Best of Greece 7b+. A very nice sustained route on reasonably small holds, great for on-sighting!

FA: unknown

Maint: Manolis Kampourakis

FA: Aris Mavromatis & B. Poulakis, 2008

FA: Aris Mavromatis, 2008

7b according to Crete Mini Guide 2022

7c+?.

Set: K. Roussos & D. Stalikas, 1997

8a?.

FA: Aris Mavromatis

FA: M. Mesarakis & N. Fiotodimitrakis

Set: Aris Mavromatis

Quite sustained crack climbing with a cruxy traverse at the beginning.

FA: Manolis Mesarakis & Christos Tsoutsias

Crete North to South 5b+, Best of Greece 5c.

FA: D. Korres & G. Martzoukos, 1979

Start left of large chimney and follow bolts to the top.

FA: D. Korres & G. Martzoukos, 1979

FA: Raymund Kosir, 2006

FA: D. Titopoulos, 2007

An interesting sustained extension that more or less just continues on form the first pitch with more or less the same difficulty.

FA: D. Titopoulos, 2007

Quite sustained climbing traversing to the right with some reachy moves and bad foot holds make this a proper 7a+.

FA: Aris Mavromatis

Hard traverse over the tufas near the start and sustained endurance climbing afterwards. Connects with Mapaloi on the last third of the route.

FA: Aris Mavromatis, 2008

FA: Aris Mavromatis, 2008

Bouldery start followed by reachy moves combined with sustained crack climbing. Connects with "Ahira la Ostia" at the last third of the route at the top.

Set: Vaggelis Floros & Aris Mavromatis, 2008

Extreme right hand of crag on sharp rock. Thorn bushes impede clean run up, but add to feel. Tricky crossover just below mid height and exciting step across at top.

FA: Mark Readman, 2006

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Bugada

Date: 2009

ISBN: 9782952637817

A selective guidebook describing 6 different rock climbing areas in Crete in the central part of the island, including the crag of Agiofarango, and covering over 250 routes.

Author(s): Bugada

Date: 2009

ISBN: 9782952637817

A selective guidebook describing 6 different rock climbing areas in Crete in the central part of the island, including the crag of Agiofarango, and covering over 250 routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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