Routes in Gruppo del Sella for selected grade

Bastano 5 rinvii

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/freccia-bis-erster-sellaturm/

At the base of the SE face, looking at the grey pillars/buttresses, scramble up the rocks (I-II) aiming for the three cracks/chimneys that cut the wall at the start of vertical rock. The route starts on a small terrace at the base of these cracks, following the right-most chimney in the corner. There is 1 cemented piton and 1 normal piton.

As with all classic Dolomites routes, there are lots of variations to the pitch lengths/directions:

1. Go up the short chimney, left at the top, then up a short distance to the anchor (1 glue-in piton with ring). (35m, IV/III, 2 pitons)

2. Go up through the chimney/crack above the belay, then up the next wall, either deviating left or going straight up the corner crack, until you reach a grassy ledge. Continue past the bolt & ring. Continue up some more grassy steps until the base of the chimney and the anchor (1 bolt). (20m, III+, IV-, III +)

3. Climb the chimney to the left of the anchor, continue all the way to the top (V-). Easier (IV-): follow the crack to the right, directly above the belay (not the chimney in the corner). At its end, go 1-2m more, up the little free-standing column and the chimney until you reach an obvious ledge between the two chimneys on the main wall. Traverse left along the ledge to the left chimney, to the left of the anchor below. Follow the easy chimney to the top with the anchor (1 glue-in bolt + ring). (15m, IV-, 2 pitons).

4. Easy scrambling leads you to the top of the pillar with one bolt. A thrilling 1-metre jump of faith takes you across the sucking void to the anchor (Glue-in bolt with ring). (20m, II, 1 bolt, 1 piton)

5. Go straight up from the belay for about 3 meters, then continue upwards over easy scrambling. One more small vertical sections leads you to the top of the climb, where you belay (1 glue-in piton) off a large boulder with some rubble, sligthly to the left. (30m, III +, II)

To reach the summit, walk up to the right around the boulder and scramble to the summit rocks.

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/SELLA_foto/PRIMA%20TORRE_camini_sito.jpg

Nice climb. Friend 3

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_1/relazioni/SASS%20PORDOI_Pederiva_A.htm

Attacco a una clessidra vicino a una lama a sinistra del canale. Primi due tiri sulla destra del canale, trasferimento 50m clessidra a sinistra del canale sulla torre. Salire a dx del canale. Tiro successivo attraversare il canale e procedere a sx appena sotto una nicchia gialla. Uscire a sx fino alla bare di una grande lama, poi dritti in vetta. Scendere sulla cresta sud 25m fino a una forcella, passare sulla parete est doppia 25m poi per prati direzione sud ovest fino all'attacco

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/sella11/sella11.htm