Routes as ice in Ōtākou / Otago

Direct crack line, start between FS crack and DB, Eh.

via Alta lake

Pretty great pitch of ice! Lot's of beginners do it as a top rope, and it can be busy.

Has a DBA at the top, so you can rap down with 2 60m ropes.

The ramps just to the right of Touch Down. Shares an anchor with Touch Down

From the top of Touch Down follow the obvious snow ramp to the left until you get to big snow ledge. Wander right and then straight up to the top. Apparently most of the route was soloed on the first ascent.

WI3 is only really for the Touch Down slabs. The rest of the climb is mostly steep snow, maybe an Alpine 2.

A great day out with some cool exposure looking down at Wye Creek.

Up easy corner then step right to steeper finish. DBA shared with Mixed Emotions.

P1: M4 | trad | 20m - Climb tricky right facing corner to a stance, then up left facing corner to DBA set back on a ledge. P2: M3 | trad | 30m - Straight up to DBA.

Punchy moves through steep roof 5m right of Force It.

Variant finish to Supremacy. Take the direct line at the top of Pitch 1, through the roof to an easier section.

Up rock step to the left of the triangular prow. Up gully, use ledge before the first rock step to continue up and left under big roof with poor pro to a break in the arete. To the top.

The first pitch is the crux. Either stick to the gully or to make it tricker, hug the right hand side of the gully for the second pitch. A great intro route.

The corner to the left of Red Wall. Four/five pitches, with bolted belays for each (and then some...). The first pitch (M4) is often thinly iced, so the difficulty and protection is dependent on conditions. The second pitch follows a snow gully up a short waterfall (WI3). The third pitch is an easy snow gully. The last pitch (M3/4) follows a vague rocky crack/corner to the top of the ridge. Conditions can vary dramatically depending on the amount of ice present, especially on the first two pitches. Generally take a single set of cams (up to #3) and wires, and 2-3 ice screws. An absolute classic.

1. (30m) Up the small gully onto the ice. Belay on chains.

2. (40m) Step left from the belay onto the short ice section and up a snow gully to two short ice steps. Belay on chains.

3. (40m) Up snow to chains on the left, or build an anchor next to the gully that the RH variant of Friday's Fool goes up.

4. (45m) Up steep snow with short ice section to a belay on two bolts. From here you can walk off to the left.

5. (20m) Up the chimney with a couple of cool moves to the top of the hill.

Starts on Fridays Fool. From the base of the snow gully at the start of the third pitch head up the large obvious corner on the lefthand side. This is sustained for approximately 40m before the angle relents and 40m of easier ground leads to the ridge.

Goes right up the small gully from the top of pitch 3 of Friday's Fool.

A steep ramp, usually rock, but can be good in late season. Up to bomber belay at 30m. Step right off belay and up open groove which exits onto the snowy gully. Up this, with one more tricky move to gain the Notch.

Climb the left facing corner/gully, topping out over a small snow slope to some boulders. Climb may have patches of thin ice, but should be protected with rock gear (nuts, cams 1"-2", hexs, #1 angle).

Belay can be made in the boulders at the top (recommend #3 blade, large beak, BD 0.75 although there are probably other options).

Straightforward smooth shield of ice, same exit as route Goat's Beard. There is a huge rock just 4m away from the exit from which you can belay off your second or use it to abseil down.