★★ Five Roses 19

The route starts at the tiny cave at bed level marked on the map just downstream of 'Appie Doctor', taking a line from the cave to the top of the overhang above.

1. 35m 19 From the cave ascend easily to below a shallow open book. Climb the open book until able to move right awkwardly onto a small sloping ledge. Continue up the face to a ledge below a slanting dihedral.

2. 35m 17 From the ledge move right (1m) and then ascend the arete. Climb awkwardly at first to gain a shallow open book. Ascend this until directly below the overhanging crack. Pull through the overhang on excellent jams to the top.

Note: It is possible to omit the final overhang by traversing left, where the grade of the pitch falls to 15.

No fire allowed as per "No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy". There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.