★★★ Valken Corner 17

A Mamacos special, an excellent hard route.

Notes: one could link the first 4 pitches below into one pitch, then the top 2 pitches with 60m ropes, but don't try that with 50m ropes for the first 4 pitches.

Start: The route starts about 10m right of the South West corner of Valken Buttress, and to the right of a Hottentot Cherry Tree.

1. Move up a thin slit to a stance at the bottom of a fault which seems to cut off a pinnacle from the main buttress.

2. Continue up the fault exiting right to a small stance.

3. Move diagonally right, to a small, exposed but comfortable stance.

4. A delicate traverse right and then up leads to the bottom of a brown recess. Climb the recess for 5m to the overhang. Move right then up for 2m where it is possible to stop, (and partially rest the arms) on a small block, which also has a vertical loose flake on it. A short movement left and up follows. Stance 3m further on a higher at a Wild Olive Tree. Note: One is now on the broken ledge with the "D" route diagonally left. Directly above the tree is a shallow recess about 45m high with a ring of overhangs across the top.

5. Climb the recess until a ledge on the left is reached near the top.

6. Traverse 8m right, then climb straight up, finishing on an exposed ridge. (Valken Edge Finishes up the recess on the right). The top of this pitch is directly above the tree. Scramble from here to exit above.

No bolting.