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Hairpin Wall All Sport climbing 11 routes in crag

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 138
  • Aka: Es Penyal Bernat
11
FR
5a5b+6a6b6c7a

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Cliff next to the second hairpin bend after Caimari with some trees providing shade at the base of the south-westerly face. Not fully child-proof: The embankment of the gravel road makes an unpleasant 5 m drop to watch out for.

Access issues

Don't drive right to the crag - private property; park at the main road.

Approach

From Inca drive towards Lluc. After passing the village of Caimari, park right at the apex of the very first hairpin bend. Follow the gravel road for ca. 200 m to the base of the crag.

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Routes

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1
5 ★ Curving Groove Sport 15m

Left of groove

2
5+ ★ Central Sport 21m, 2, 10

Central route; spectacular second pitch, somewhat slick in places

3
5 ★ Right Sport 22m
4
7a ★★ Cristo en pel, taronges navel Sport 40m

starting from the lower-off of Right

5
7a ★★ The Hard One Sport

high first bolt

6
6c ★★ The Blob Sport 15m

Slab, then left towards blob, shares anchors with ¨The Hard One¨

7
6b ★ The Blob Right-hand Sport 6

Start the slab below the blob, pass it right and follow a crack towards a (single) anchor half a metre left of the anchor of ¨The Blob Indirect¨

8
6a ★ The Blob Indirect Sport 12m, 5

Interesting short route to anchor below ledge. Misleading name - does not include the blob!

9
6a+ ★★ Pocket Sport 27m

Warning Fixed Gear: Rusty bolts

Further right on the cliff, left route

10
6a Pocket Right Sport 24m, 8

Warning Fixed Gear: Rusty bolts

Branch off to the right after second bolt of "Pocket"

11
6b+ Poor Sport 15m

Rightmost route.

Back in 2009 it was considered 6a+.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Mallorca Sport Climbing and Deep Water Soloing Guidebook

Author(s): Alan James, Mark Glaister and Daimon Beail

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781873341186

A selective guidebook describing a wide selection of sport routes and the Deep Water Soloing (DWS) on the island of Mallorca. It covers nearly 1,500 sport routes from F3 to F9a+, and nearly 400 deep water soling routes.

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5+ ★ Central
7a ★★ Cristo en pel, taronges navel

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Sun 14 May
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