Routes in Wales for selected grade

The wall to the right of Crimson Cruiser; climbed direct. Two pegs were added and a separate route claimed in the 1990s (Purple Paradise). Still felt like E5 with the pegs. Non Creaming Dairy (direct start to NDC) climbs rightward across the shallow groove (right of Purple Paradise) to the steep blunt arete then up the wall to a ledge to join NDC.

Top head wall only skipping the NCD start as per the CC guide.

Start 3m right of The Ram of Radyr and climb to a bulge. Move left and then make a sustained series of moves up to a poor PR under the roof. Move over the roof and onto the slabby wall above then move left to gain a ledge. Continue up the cracked wall above to the top.

Start just to the right of the arete of Double Criss.

1. 5a, 24m. Climb the centre of the wall - friable and bold in places. Traverse left to a ledge below the 'overhanging crack'.

2. 6a, 13m. The finger-crack above requires determination to reach the niche and continue to the top.

The arête to the right of Beth. Climb direct to small ledges beneath a bulge. Reach over to finger pockets, TR, then climb rightwards on undercuts to a hidden jug near the arête. Follow thin cracks in the arête above to finish.

Start 8m left of the prominent groove line, below an undercut at 2m. Pull up and move steeply rightward to reach a small spike above the bulge. Reach up to the left-rising break and finish up the easier upper groove.

The overhanging arete to the left of the descent gully. Unprotected for the first ten metres but fortunately the crux comes after gear