Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
11 |
★ Penny Dreadful
- with
John Pitcairn
1
11
40m
lead by
Grant Johnston
2
5
lead by
John Pitcairn
| 40m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 15th May 2011 | ||||
10 |
★★ The Archbishop (The Archbishop P1)
- with
Lauren Peacock
1
10
48m
| 48m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Jun 2020 | ||||
Started a bit late, had a bit of an epic, and rapped after the first pitch in the dark.
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10 |
★★ The Archbishop (The Archbishop P1)
- with
Stephen Carter
| 48m | Arapiles | Fri 2nd Apr 2021 | |||||
11 |
★★ The Archbishop
- with
Kat Liss
2
lead by
Kat Liss
| 48m | Arapiles | Sat 19th Mar 2022 | |||||
11 |
★★ The Archbishop
1
11
48m
2
| 48m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Sep 2022 | ||||
Fun climb to keep you thinking. Climbing partner spiced up the second pitch by making up a new route.
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8 |
★ The Parson's Nose
- with
Babak Shoeiby
| 35m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 1st Nov 2021 | ||||
Note the beehive at the foot of the wall if you choose to do the Direct Start of the climb (i.e. route 42a in the Arapiles Selected Climbs book)
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9 |
★ The Parson's Nose
- with
Amanda Chan
1
9
27m
2
5
8m
| 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Apr 2022 | ||||
The ramp at the start provided some spice, cool traverse moves.
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23 23 X | ★ A Dream Of Pink Tse-Tse Flies Direct | 25m | Arapiles | Fri 15th Apr 2011 | |||||
with Sara
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23 23 X | ★ A Dream Of Pink Tse-Tse Flies Direct | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 7th Apr 2016 | ||||
Good if you dont like your ankles, or just dont fall off the crux.
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23 | ★ Nuns Love It - with Dan Fussell | 20m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 29th May 2016 | ||||
A bit thin on the underclings, go right a fair bit on these before going up.
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23 23 X | ★ A Dream Of Pink Tse-Tse Flies Direct | 25m | Arapiles | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | |||||
22 | Witch Craft - with Andrew Clark | 40m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Sep 2012 | ||||
It's definitely not 18. The start is about 21 and then you pull through the roof on a 2 finger pocket (crux) and end by mantling a horn on the arete.
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20 21 | ★ Beelzebub Direct Start | 10m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 21st Mar 2004 | ||||
A very hard start leads to good climbing
|
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21 | ★ One For The Road | 15m, 1 | Arapiles | Average | 2002 | ||||
20 21 | ★ Beelzebub Direct Start | 10m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 11th Apr 2004 | ||||
with Susy
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20 21 | ★ Beelzebub Direct Start | 10m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
20 21 | ★ Beelzebub Direct Start | 10m, 1 | Arapiles | Mon 21st Jun 2010 | |||||
22 21 | ★ Beelzebub Direct Start - with Andrew Clark | 10m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Sep 2014 | ||||
Very, very hard for 20. And probably reachy, and dangerous getting to the bolt.
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20 21 | ★ Beelzebub Direct Start | 10m, 1 | Arapiles | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | |||||
Punchy start. Saddest carrot bolt I've ever seen! Start felt very hard for a 20 ... other guides ranged from 20 to 22.
|
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21 | ★ Beelzebub Direct Start - with Dan Fussell | 10m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 29th May 2016 | ||||
21 | ★ Beelzebub Direct Start | 10m, 1 | Arapiles | Fri 1st May 2020 | |||||
21 | ★ Beelzebub Direct Start | 10m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Feb 2021 | ||||
Really fun movement in the first half. Shame it’s not more sustained
|
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20 | ★ The Power Of Positive Thinking | 40m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 21st Sep 2005 | ||||
the first half is good but lichenous
|
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22 20 | ★ A Dream Of Pink Tse-Tse Flies | 42m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 21st Sep 2005 | ||||
the start is a bit footless
|
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22 20 | ★ A Dream Of Pink Tse-Tse Flies | 42m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 28th Sep 2022 | ||||
22 20 | ★ A Dream Of Pink Tse-Tse Flies | 42m | Arapiles | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | |||||
20 | ★ The Power Of Positive Thinking | 40m, 1 | Arapiles | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | |||||
20 20 R | Forgotten Archive | 30m | Arapiles | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | |||||
19 | ★★ Morgul Can't | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Sep 2006 | ||||
I thought less scary as an onsight than MK.
|
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19 | ★★ Morgul Can't | 40m | Arapiles | Mon 2nd Oct 2006 | |||||
19 | ★★ Morgul Can't | 40m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 31st Oct 2004 | ||||
with Luke, hated the hollow flake you relied upon for gear and cranking!
|
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19 | ★★ Morgul Can't | 40m | Arapiles | ★ Good | 1998 | ||||
19 | ★★ Morgul Can't | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | 2006 | ||||
With Ed. Slightly dodgy gear, but great moves.
|
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19 | ★★ Morgul Can't | 40m | Arapiles | Sun 5th May 2013 | |||||
19 | ★★ Morgul Can't | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Jun 2013 | ||||
19 | ★★ Morgul Can't | 40m | Arapiles | Wed 30th Apr 2014 | |||||
19 | ★★ Morgul Can't - with Anna | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st Oct 2017 | ||||
Bottom is good, then made the decision to go direct for full value, yikes. Had an insecure sling on the (yes, suspect) flake and promptly knocked that off with my foot, faffed round replacing it. There is an OK #1 ball nut further out left which provided some additional sanity. A couple of hard moves above get the heart and head going until you get more gear and things ease a little. Phew.
|
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19 | ★★ Morgul Can't | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 26th Nov 2018 | ||||
19 | ★★ Morgul Can't - with gaetan, Hilary | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 18th Jun 2020 | ||||
The suspect flake felt quite sane to me.
|
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19 | ★★ Morgul Can't | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Apr 2022 | ||||
Quite exciting with some fiddly gear and suss flake.
|
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19 | ★★ Morgul Can't - with max, dangerous, pungpai | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | 2020 | ||||
19 | ★★ Morgul Can't | 40m | Arapiles | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | |||||
19 | ★★ Morgul Can't | 40m | Arapiles | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | |||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | 2003 | |||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 7th Oct 2004 | ||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Jun 2006 | ||||
Fingery, balancy, then juggy on superb Arapiles stone.
|
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18 | ★ Roadside Attraction | 20m | Arapiles | 2002 | |||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | Mon 3rd Oct 2005 | |||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Jun 2005 | ||||
its one of the favourites now.
|
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18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 31st Oct 2004 | ||||
With Luke, pretty pumpy at the start, some average gear
|
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18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 1st Nov 2004 | ||||
nice face climbing
|
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18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 19th Jul 2004 | ||||
excellent climbing with good pro
|
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18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Apr 2001 | ||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Aug 2003 | ||||
A great line and climb.
|
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18 | ★ Roadside Attraction | 20m | Arapiles | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 7th Apr 2007 | ||||
very well worth it! and a bit of a heart stopper with the crux above gear!
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18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | Sat 26th Oct 2002 | |||||
A few hard moves up the crack but the rest was easy enough.
|
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18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Nov 2005 | ||||
With Neets
|
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18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Jan 2004 | ||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Jul 2006 | ||||
One moment of some intensity.
|
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18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 24th Apr 2006 | ||||
18 | ★ Roadside Attraction | 20m | Arapiles | Mon 3rd Oct 2005 | |||||
18 | ★ Roadside Attraction | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Nov 2005 | ||||
With Neets, pretty committing mantle.
|
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18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | 2003 | |||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Apr 2006 | ||||
Great if you like slabs.
|
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18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Jan 2007 | ||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Sep 2005 | ||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Nov 2001 | ||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | Average | Mon 10th Sep 2007 | ||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 19th Apr 2007 | ||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | Mon 16th Mar 1998 | |||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Jun 2006 | ||||
with Kim, excellent
|
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18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | 1989 | ||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th Jun 2005 | ||||
wish it was 3 times as long. cruxy, not very well protected start.
|
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18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | 1989 | ||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Aug 2004 | ||||
18 | ★ Roadside Attraction | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 11th Apr 2004 | ||||
with Suzy
|
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18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | 2006 | ||||
With Ed.
|
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18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Good variety
|
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18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | Sat 29th Oct 2011 | |||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | Sun 5th May 2013 | |||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | Sun 5th May 2013 | |||||
18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Nov 2013 | ||||
18 | ★★ Salem - with Tom | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Apr 2014 | ||||
scary!! delicate move away from the flake.
|
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18 | ★★ Salem - with Mike | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Apr 2014 | ||||
Great climbing! Made me work for it. Care needed in a couple of spots to make sure you have enough gear between you and the ground.
|
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18 | ★★ Salem | 40m | Arapiles | Wed 30th Apr 2014 | |||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | Wed 30th Apr 2014 | |||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | Arapiles | Sun 11th May 2014 |