Showing all 15 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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24 | |||||
Hotdog Wall | |||||
24 | ★★★ Mantis
Very steep arete climbing overhanging wall on the left of Hotdog Wall. Batman start requires a 5m stick clip on a DUB anchor, a regular stick clip taped to a sturdy wood stick will do the trick. A 70m rope will be ample for lowering, a 60m might just be enough, be careful and tie a knot at the end. Walk in access is possible following the gully to the left of the pagodas, it will split left at -33.322499, 150.133324, keep following left and down pass Pet Wall etc FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 29 May 2020 | 30m | |||
23 | |||||
Hotdog Wall | |||||
23 | ★★★ It's a Dog's Life
Very nice wall. Sweeping orange expanse at the left end of Hotdog wall. Has some sporting runouts in the upper half, so bring some extra undies and have fun. Anchors: One bolt and tree belay at the end of the route. One belay bolt plus #2.5 friend at base (semi hanging belay) Note: anchor is high. Access: Locate 2 rap bolts a few metres back from edge. Abseil down steps and dinner plates or scramble with a prusik for approx 12m to bolt on ledge one metre above where vertical rock begins. Rebelay/attach rope to bolt and continue to rap another 28m to small ledge 8m above the ground (you will need to swing and clip a bolt about 10m above the belay stance to be able to reach the belay anchor). 10 bolts and 2 cams. 5 bolts then #3.5 friend after another metre, 3 bolts, #3 friend after another metre, 2 bolts. If you hate rope drag, unclip 3rd bolt runner after you clip the 4th and put long draws on the 6th and 7th bolts. FA: Brendan Helmrich & Mark Wilson, 2010 | 40m, 10 | |||
Froth Wall Area | |||||
23 | ★ Junk yard dog
If we only had young forearms again. Cruxy. Good fun. Anchors: 2 bolts at the top. 2 belay bolts 37m down and 15m above the ground on small footledge. Access: To the of Froth Wall past the Pillar. Rap down the wall and swing right 3m when nearing the belay. 13 bolts and a friend #2.5 after 11th bolt. FA: Mark Wilson & Brendan Helmrich, 2010 | 38m, 13 | |||
22 | |||||
Bitza Wall | |||||
22 | Old Dogs New Tick
Some fine arête moves. Anchors: 2 bolts at the top. Natural belay at base of arête/crack on small foot-ledge. Wires and small friends. Access: Rap down the right side of the route. 11 bolts. Up. Optional belay at 20m. A nice 19 if you climb the crack then traverse to the arête just above 2nd bolt. (Using crack for gear or second bolt). FA: Mark Wilson & Brendan Helmrich, 2010 | 35m, 11 | |||
21 | |||||
Pet Wall | |||||
21 | Fiery Fur Ball
Anchors: Tree belay at top. Take #1 and #1.5 friend for belay at the bottom, 10m above ground on good ledge. Access: Rap down arete and preclip first bolt 7 bolts, sling , friends # 0.5 #1.5 #2.5 Start 1m left of the arête. Past bolt then #1.5 friend then sling over big jug. 5 bolts then slot the #0.5 and/or #2.5 friend in the horizontal, one more bolt to the top. FA: Brendan Helmrich & Mark Wilson, 2010 | 25m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★ Fluff Ball
A few thin moves up an aesthetic wall. Anchors: Tree belay at top. Take #1 and #1.5 friend for belay at the bottom, 10m above ground on good ledge. Access: Rap down arete and preclip first bolt Start as for Fiery Fur balls. After third bolt veer left a couple of meters via #4 friend and small cam slot, then straight up past 6 bolts FA: Mark Wilson & Brendan Helmrich, 2010 | 25m, 6 | |||
Hotdog Wall | |||||
21 | ★ Dirty Dog
Has a sting in its tail. Anchors: Tree belay at top. 2 bolt belay at base. 8m above the ground at the base of the flake/crack. Semi hanging belay. Access: Use tree belay anchor. Rap on the right hand side of the bulging rock at the end of the route. 6 bolts and a rack of friends, doubles on #1 and #1.5. Up flake/crack which trends left. Straight up orange rock. Need to look for gear in upper half. Take some extender quickdraws. Go left after last bolt or straight up which is slightly harder. FA: Brendan Helmrich & Mark Wilson, 2010 | 38m, 6 | |||
Froth Wall Area | |||||
21 | ★ Rabies
Nice straight climb with some good moves. Anchors: 2 belay bolts at the top. 2 belay bolts at base (small ledge 8m off the ground) Access: Rap down the wall between Foaming and Rabies Up crack, small to medium friends and wires. Straight up past 7 bolts. FA: Brendan Helmrich & Mark Wilson, 2010 | 33m, 7 | |||
21 | ★ Foaming at the Mouth
Has all types of rock, solid, chossy, iron stone etc. Great position but take care. Originally had 7 bolts. Brendan did a classic self sandbag, felt weak, got scared on some runouts with suspect rock and cried for a top rope. It now has 12 bolts and is much more pleasant. Anchors: 2 belay bolts at the top. 2 belay bolt at base (spacious ledge 8m off the ground) Access: Rap down the wall between Foaming and Rabies Straight up the line of scoops, 3m right of the arete. 12 bolts plus micro cams and #2.5 friend. Up past 9 bolts then micro cams in horizontal, up to #2.5 friend at large break (long sling required). Move left and easily up pockets then back right. Through overlap and up past 3 bolts. FA: Brendan Helmrich & Mark Wilson, 2010 | 35m, 12 | |||
20 | |||||
Hotdog Wall | |||||
20 | Hotdog
Nice climb. Anchors: 2 belay bolts at the top. 2 belay bolts at base 8m above the ground. Semi hanging belay. Access: Rap down from Hotdog anchors. There are two cam breaks. Friends either #1 or #1.5 or #3 plus a #4 and 8 bolts. Go left at second cam break then back right. FA: Mark Wilson & Brendan Helmrich, 2010 | 35m, 8 | |||
19 | |||||
Pet Wall | |||||
19 | ★ Georgie Girl
This was going to be the crag warm-up at 16. Anchors: Tree belay at top. Large ledge at base Access: Rap down slot right of Georgie Girl 4 bolts and small to medium gear Up easy wide crack then small to medium gear in crack (need sling to extend). Large jug on right plus a bolt. Straight up past another 3 bolts, then last piece is Friends #1 and smaller in horizontal. FA: Brendan Helmrich & Mark Wilson, 2010 | 23m, 4 | |||
Hotdog Wall | |||||
19 | Mans Best Friend
Great route. Good warm-up. Anchors: One belay bolt at the top plus a #3.5 friend. 2 belay bolts at base 8m above the ground on ledge. Access: Rap down from Hotdog anchors. Rack of wires and small friends plus 8 bolts. Up crack then step right at the bulge towards a bolt. Up past bolts. Veer right after last bolt to anchor. FA: Mark Wilson & Brendan Helmrich, 2010 | 35m, 8 | |||
16 | |||||
Bitza Wall | |||||
16 | ★ Dog Gone
Anchors: One bolt plus medium gum tree 5m back at cliff top. 2 bolts at base of route semi hanging. Access: Rap down 1/2m left of Pedigree. Rack of friends #1 to #4. Up 2m then diagonally right for 5m. Up past 3 bolts. FA: Brendan Helmrich & Mark Wilson, 2010 | 20m, 3 | |||
16 | Pedigree
Good wall for a warm-up. Anchors: One bolt plus cluster of small gum trees 5m back at cliff top. 2 bolts at base of route semi hanging. Access: Rap down 1/2m left of the route. Rack of friends plus 3 bolts. Up FA: Mark Wilson & Brendan Helmrich, 2010 | 18m, 3 | |||
11 | |||||
Pet Wall | |||||
11 | ★ Canine Corner
Not a bad little corner despite appearances. Anchors: Tree belay at top. Large ledge at base Access: Rap down Georgie Girl Rack of cams and wires. Up the crack. The start is unprotected unless you have some very large cams. FA: Brendan Helmrich & Mark Wilson, 2010 | 23m |
Showing all 15 routes.