Rating | Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
3211
points
| 27 |
FA
★★★ Darkest Congo
- with
Simmo, Jared Anderson
1
2
3
4
| 100m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 13th May 2023 | |||
|
|||||||||
3172
points
| 28 | FA ★★★ Life Without Meaning - with Stephen Varney | 40m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 17th Nov 2021 | |||
Day 12, sent 2nd redpoint shot today. Finally, after struggling with conditions, weather, injuries, belayer mutinies ( ), and some hideously unlucky throw-away laps, I managed to keep it together despite a really inopportune foot slip, and score the FA. At the top I started shaking, and and had to RAWR the rock into submission for the final moves. This is one of only a handful of times I've ever celebrated on a Send. One of my top 3 lines I've ever put up for sure.
|
|||||||||
3153
points
| 27 | FA ★★ Spit Your Pity (in My Soul) - with Simmo | 70m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Nov 2022 | |||
6 days of effort. The rock is Cosmic-esque quality, and the climbing is amazing, but as an "experience" its more "brutal" than fun IMO.
2 very different pitches. P1 climbs like a steeper, harder and more sustained version of Kizashi (and is mostly on bolts). P2 is all about the gritstone-esque insecurity, and is mostly on gear. P3 is just an exit pitch |
|||||||||
3096
points
| 26 R |
FA
★★ MoonMoon Crack
- with
Match
1
lead by
Match
2
lead by
Paul Frothy Thomson
| 70m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Jun 2023 | |||
Another lap to do it properly -placing all gear on lead.
I had a lot of (scared) fun with this one. Radical gr23ish start through a roof to a ledge. Then 4 hard boulder problems (with big runouts) between gear nests. Two are vertical runouts, 2 are horizontal runouts. Very gritstone-esque as it links features to forge a line. I almost fell off the final move to the anchor, and had to power-scream to get through it. Bloody great day out. Would be classic (in the style) if it were more accessible, but unfortunately the approach is nightmare-fuel, and the rock is only 3.5/5 on a Blueys rock-quality rating scale. |
|||||||||
3064
points
| 26 Hard | FA ★★ Blank and Pitiless - with Match | 45m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Mar 2023 | |||
First shot today, after having fallen off 44m up the 45m pitch a few weeks ago. Maybe 3 full days of effort in total?
Quite a lot harder than Gaze a Gazely Stare (the boulder is more full-on, the rests are less restful). It's also more committing, IMHO. Still super-wild steep climbing above gear, though |
|||||||||
3049
points
| 26 Easy | FA ★★★ Gaze a Gazely Stare - with Simmo, Jared Anderson, Match | 55m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Jan 2023 | |||
5 days of effort -though 4 of those were wasted with an utterly stupid way of climbing the crux.
Crazy crazy steep mixed climbing over the void. Sustained, and absent "ledges" or major breaks... but marred by "Duck-Wall-esque" rock quality (read: average Blueys Rock), so I'm only giving it 2 stars. |
|||||||||
3039
points
| 24 | ★★ Everyman and his Dog - with Match | 60m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Aug 2022 | |||
Was pretty chuffed to punch this out as a warmup, with the route unchalked.
The money pitch is short, and the rock is variable (though mostly quite good) but it's very sustained and insecure, and an excellent technical crack-climbing test-piece. In a few moments of desperation, I began using face-holds that would be called bad footers any other day of the week... I'm sure there's better beta |
|||||||||
3031
points
| 24 |
★★★ Nuclear Winter
- with
Match
1
23
20m
2
24
25m
| 45m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | |||
Pretty stoked with the onsight given the (obvious) lack of wear/traffic and dirty holds after the recent deluge.
Linked both pitches into a giant 45m pitch from the ground. I don't necessarily recommend this unless you use 2 ropes, or pull up and drop the rope (for a clean run of rope) at the end of P1, as the rope drag was horrible. A very old school, wandery, cryptic, and intimidating line. P1 starts inauspiciously, but ends with some pretty hard slabbing a long way above a carrot. P2 features some heart-stopping climbing to gain the arete, turn it, and continue up the slab on the other side before finally getting another carrot. Both pitches were good fun if you like the style, but P2 proved gripping enough to be memorable, and I'll readily admit that I was a bit freaked. |
|||||||||
3028
points
| 27 | FA ★★★ Proleptic Decrepitude and Despair - with Stephen Varney | 40m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Sep 2021 | |||
3rd shot today (8th lap total over 3 days) placing gear on the send.
Almost botched it through the steep prow at the top when -pumped to blazes- I got the key cam stuck with only half the lobes in, and was unable to fix. In the end I just went for it anyway and committed to the runout, but I would not have wanted to fall! I used 9 bolts and 8 bits of trad over the 40m, but there are other trad options available as well. Super steep climbing in an outrageous position, with an awesome mix of powerful and technical moves. Marred by some coarse rock, and wandery sequences (though I see the latter as a positive ). Might be 26, but it usually doesn't take me 8 shots to climb a 26 these days, so who knows. |
|||||||||
2993
points
| 26 Easy | ★★★ Gaze a Gazely Stare | 55m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th May 2024 | |||
2 laps on TRS for training. Trying to build some steep fitness again! Despite being bell-quality-rock, I just find this super steep pupper so much fun!
|
|||||||||
2993
points
| 28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - with Will Vidler | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th Feb 2021 | |||
Repeat attempt for training (not clean today). Clean to the main crux on Will's gear. Took a few falls, then came down Still brilliant!
|
|||||||||
2982
points
| 25 | FA ★★★ Harbinger | 50m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 20th Jul 2023 | |||
Repeat to do placing gear. Definitely scarier placing, as the best gear to protect the finale is grades harder to place on lead... so I just didn't place it. Wild cranking a roof boulder, way above gear, miles out in space.
|
|||||||||
2979
points
| 24 | ★★★ Textures of Consciousness - with Simmo | 70m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Nov 2022 | |||
Facilitating Simmo's FA of this old-skool modern-day classic.
Beautiful rock, and radical climbing, with lots of rests between tricky moves. As a giant pitch, almost entirely on gear, this is kinda intense (could maybe use an extra bolt or 2?) Done with a Gentleman's Sit at a no-hands rest to avoid pinching the FA. Proper cool! |
|||||||||
2947
points
| 26 Easy | ★★★ Gaze a Gazely Stare - with Simmo, Jared Anderson, Match | 55m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jan 2023 | |||
Clean repeat for training
|
|||||||||
2934
points
| 27 | ★★★ Proleptic Decrepitude and Despair - with Stephen Varney, Ben Sanford | 40m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Oct 2021 | |||
Repeat attempt -not clean today. I couldn't do the boulder-crux move at all today, despite many attempts at it -it was just too humid! Managed to test the gear with some big falls, though Lots of fun to chuck a "carefree" lap on it, though.
|
|||||||||
2908
points
| 23 ~23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Simmo, Rene Provis, Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Dec 2022 | |||
A great warmup if you like steep jamming. More involved climbing than you'd expect from the ground. Great rock, and kinda intimidating.
It felt about gr23 for the Onsight to me, sans jammies or tape -the crux was too wide for me to jam, and too tight to fist properly- so maybe 22 for the redpoint or with jammies? I used 0.5, 0.75, 2 x 2, 2 x 3. |
|||||||||
2894
points
| 25 | FA ★★★ Break Yourself (Against My Stones) - with Simmo | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Oct 2022 | |||
Probably hard at the grade.
Great rock, and continuous and sustained technical face climbing in an exposed location. Proper chuffed that this goes almost entirely on gear (only 4 bolts on the FA!) as all of the hard moves are above gear. It feels pretty "out there" to execute gnarly technical trickery over cams. |
|||||||||
2891
points
| 25 ~28 |
★★★ Snakes & Ladders
1
2
3
| 80m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Aug 2023 | |||
I spent 4 days on this route over the last 4 years -including my first attempt "group up" with Emil in the snow (back when no one really knew anything about this route, except that it looked rad).
P1 and P3 are inconsequential, but P2 is absolutely stunning. Its basically a mega mega left-leaning seam-crack at 24/25, guarded by a V8+ crack boulder that I could "sort of" do the moves on, but never really had any chance to link. Over my visits, I replaced the anchors on this, so there's really no reason for you not (prospective ascent reader) to get on it. |
|||||||||
2885
points
| 26 Easy | ★★★ Gaze a Gazely Stare | 55m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th May 2023 | |||
TRS lap to retrieve my trad gear from this route. Good casual pumping. I'm back up to having 3 racks of gear now! (its been a few months of sparsity with only 1 rack of gear in my posession).
|
|||||||||
2883
points
| 25 | FA ★★★ Raid - with Match | 55m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Aug 2022 | |||
FFA. Mega mega mega!
Originally attempted ground-up (after climbing Everyman and his Dog) resulting in a few big falls, and much fear, I later sent this third shot on pre-placed gear, and 4th shot placing all gear on lead. On the FFA, I linked P1 into P2. This is the sort of modern-style trad climbing that I've really come to enjoy, where the incipient crack takes gear, but much of the climbing is done gymnastically on face holds, resulting in some exciting exposure as you move away from the gear. The upper crux is very sporty. Proper stoked with this find. |
|||||||||
2873
points
| 25 | ★★ Go Go Velcro - with Heath Black | 35m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th May 2024 | |||
Seconding Monty on the FA. Not clean -I got too scared on second on the traverse crux at the start (given there was 35m of rope in the system) and aided off a bolt out to the arete. It then also took me a bit to figure out the mid-height crux.
A very cool mixed route, IMO. The start is a funky bit of traversing (who doesn't love a traverse crux, right?) and the face section is more varied face climbing. |
|||||||||
2866
points
| 23 | ★★ Shoot Your Shot | 25m, 5 | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 6th Aug 2022 | |||
A few okay moves up a thin orange face, but consistently snappy rock, and pretty sketchy equipping. Not recommended.
I used a 2 and 0.4 cam in the initial corner, and a 3 to back up a crappy bolt higher up. |
|||||||||
2866
points
| 23 | ★★ Hot and Hunky | 20m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 6th Aug 2022 | |||
Very unlikely novelty traversing, but the carrots are garbage (at stupid angles to the rock, and unfiled heads makes getting plates on a nightmare) and getting to the first bolt is death.
I was on this for a loooong time on the onsight, struggling to find the holds/line on an untrafficked and weird route. Bring a 0.5 and 0.4 cam for the first half. |
|||||||||
2866
points
| 23 | ★★★ Big, Meaty Pork Chops | 45m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Aug 2022 | |||
Im giving this classic even with some shitty bolting, and dusty holds. Very Arapilean, asit wanders around between gear, holds, and brackets (only the first bolt off the ground is a carrot) on classy bum rock. This is probably the only route I genuinely enjoyed here.
I used a 0.5 and 2 cam. With a few long runners, rope drag was not a problem on a single rope. |
|||||||||
2862
points
| 23 |
★★ Pitch Blank
- with
Heath Black
1
23
25m
2
15m
3
15m
| 55m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | |||
Pitch 1 only -though I kinda climbed some of the Project as well (it's a confusing bit of wall, here). Probably about gr23 the way I climbed it, though I would describe it as the most logical line. Old school, boulder-problems between mantles and ledges, with some huuuge runouts. Completely dry despite all the crazy rain.
|
|||||||||
2833
points
| 26 | FA ★★ Truth Lies Somewhere Inbetween - with Will Vidler, Stephen Varney, Jared Anderson | 23m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Jan 2021 | |||
FFA. Gave me more trouble than I expected, taking 3 days of effort for the send (the most time I've spent on a 26 in years). Could be the hideous conditions of late, perhaps? Might even be 25 in good conditions, when the face crux isn't all spooge. A very sporty/gymnastic route. Climbed using 2 bolts, but its still quite risky.
|
|||||||||
2813
points
| 23 | ★★ Jezreel - with Sammy Zammit, Jared Anderson | 50m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Feb 2022 | |||
A worthy adventure, where the crux pitch wasn't all that gnarly, but the exit was. Still a good day out, even though I dropped my 0.75 Friend into Katoomba falls
We chose to rap in from above the route for a number of reasons (one of which is how much water there currently is in the creek above Katoomba Falls!) though that proved rather tricky, and necessitated some reverse roof-aiding shenanigans. As such, we didn't do the P1 traverse. P2 is mostly sub gr20 climbing on good but spaced gear, with a briefly hard crux past a carrot. Save a 0.4/0.5 cam for AFTER this section! (I didn't, and it made the top rather terrifying). P3 was a type-2 adventure. Route finding was hard (its not obvious where it goes). The gear was spaced and kinda dubious, and the rock was somewhat crap. But my biggest problem is that in 2 attempts I simply could not do the topout roof mantle on link, as it was a waterfall, and the rock was frictionless, slimey ironstone. Took a couple of exciting whips onto a cam I really didn't trust. So, not a real send. I also tried to pioneer a new top pitch out right with gnarly roof moves that avoided all the water. Came really close despite it being a steep questing adventure, until I whipped onto a black totem with only half its lobes in the rock. After that I got scared and downclimbed back to the belay It would actually be a great line on better rock if you had a cam 1-size smaller than the black totem. |
|||||||||
2757
points
| 23 | FA ★★ Gabara - with Match | 55m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st May 2024 | |||
An enjoyable couple of days to get this sorted. Climbed as 2 pitches (linking the top two). Good crack and face climbing, with all the hard moves being bolt protected roofs. Marred solely by some sections of average rock.
|
|||||||||
2737
points
| 25 | ★★★ Echo Crack - with David Dearnley | 190m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Mar 2022 | |||
Clean Repeat (mostly -the tippy top move was a muddy waterfall, so I stood on a carrot bolt to mantle out) in proper torrential conditions to escape the bottom of this wall at the end of a long day of adventuring. Top tip: Echo Crack is climbable after (and during) record-breaking rain, but it's quite a bit more exciting.
Climbed in via a left hand variant (around the other side of the left arete where we were sussing a new gear line "ground up") to arrive in the final moves of the ordinary gr25 crux. This version was probably harder than the original, and certainly scarier. We were rather undergunned in the #3 cam department, and I climbed the top (gr22 pitch) using 4 x #3s, 2 x #4's and a #5 in 40m... I'll readily admit that I was rather gripped. If you could scrounge like 7 x #3's for the top pitch, it would be a pleasant cruise. |
|||||||||
2712
points
| 24 M1 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
- with
Match, Simmo
1
24 M1
2
21
3
21
| 58m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | |||
A genuinely mega trad route, that should be on everyone's "classic cracks" list. The roof of the first pitch is all-time mega steep crack climbing, with great gear, and stacked moves all the way to the anchor. And yes, Anton Korsun they're actual crack moves
The 2nd pitch has a scary start, but otherwise is great crack climbing. I linked the pitch into the top pitch (which was rather gnarly, having only brought 3 bolt plates). Pitch 3 has a very hard start through a rooflet, followed by pleasant facey rambling. IMHO, I'd suggest continuing up the grey slab to the top, rather than traversing out left to carrots. (I did the traverse, and just found it contrived.) Regarding my 24M1 grading on P1: I never managed to do 1 move off the ground (between the slippery righthand crimp, and the first tight fingerlock -which I can only just fit back-3 1-pad in with careful placement- with no feet) so climbed with the left hand pre-set-up, then up to the top (hence a point of aid off the ground). I'm not sure whether the collapse of the foot pedestal at the base of the route may be a factor, or whether I just have to concede that the start is too thin/hard for me. Regardless, doing it with a point of aid off the ground was still great climbing I had some bad luck on the rest of the First pitch; breaking off a key hold, pinching a nerve in my hand so bad I had to drop off to recover, and taking a gear-ripping fall at one point. As such, my ascent was far from perfect style. Still, the fact I totally rate this crack despite these setbacks, is a testament to how good it is |
|||||||||
2696
points
| 26 | FA ★★ Koyaanisqatsi - with Will Vidler, Heath Black, Glen Thomson | 70m, 17 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 29th Oct 2019 | |||
Led all pitches, done as a 15m pitch (P1) and a 55m pitch (P2-P4) belayed from the ground. Old school equipping and commitment, and as psychologically demanding as it is physically demanding on the crux pitch. Rope management is crucial to keeping this safe. P2-P4 (as a giant pitch) probably warrant "classic" status for the unrelenting arête-y nature of the climbing. P2 is crazy overhanging in the first half!
|
|||||||||
2691
points
| 24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Simmo, alyssa smirnov, Jared Anderson | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | |||
Clean repeat. So much fun! A great warmup, and just what the doc ordered after a rather trying week.
|
|||||||||
2677
points
| 24 |
★★★ Thrustblock
- with
Match
1
Seconded Mitch Clean. A proper classic pitch in its own right. The steepness is outrageous at the grade! With a bit more love, a bit more cleaning, and by starting up the layback flake to the right, this pitch on its own deserves a full 3 stars.
2
Second clean. Some classic moments, but a lot of choss, wet rock, and moss. Once you get to the roof, everything up is great fun.
3
Hardly inspiring to look at (in fact, rather ugly) but the desperate bottomless chimney armbar-thrutching-madness was a unique experience to me. I climbed it with gear in (from my failed onsight attempt) and the first gear up to the crux pre-clipped from lowering off previously. | 70m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Jan 2023 | |||
I always thought Pitch 1 looked mega, and it totally is.
Climbing Pitch 1 via the layback flake to the start, then traversing off (past old carrots) onto The Mind Boggles to rap would be a totally worthwhile undertaking for any trad enthusiast. |
|||||||||
2662
points
| 24 | FA ★★ Wrapt - with Heath Black | 50m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 15th Dec 2021 | |||
FFA. Freed the boulder problem start (might be harder than gr24?) to make this an all-free route. On my retro flash (everything above the start boulder), I fell off on easy terrain at the tippy top after breaking off a hold... so down I came to go again. sigh
A bit old school, but awesome, not-too-hard climbing up an imposing, steep face, following the line of least resistance. Good bolts, so get on it. |
|||||||||
2643
points
| 28 | ★★★ Beyond Belief — 2 attempts - with Simmo, Rene Provis, Jacques Beaudoin | 40m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Dec 2022 | |||
2 Attempts. On my 2nd I managed to get to the last 5m body-squeeze/offwidth section with a single rest, but never really managed to work out the last few metres. To me, with my physiology, it seemed like I was going to need to invert? But lacking more big gear, I was too intimidated to commit properly to it. I'll have to come back with bigger gear, and maybe a few more skills.
The rock is a mixed bag, but it's outweighed by the wildness of the climbing, which is varied, brutish, and intimidating. I used 7 x #4, 2 x #5 and 1 x #6 for the roof part of the crack. I could probably have done with another #6 at least, and perhaps something bigger (purely for the purpose of working the last part of the roof). |
|||||||||
2643
points
| 26 | ★★ Koyaanisqatsi - with Lucas C, Magdalena de la Torre | 70m, 17 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Feb 2021 | |||
Repeat attempt (not clean today). Pitches 2 & 3 only (as a giant pitch).
Sure, this is obscure, but P2 is radical bold-ish gritstone-style arete climbing. Better than I remember, and also quite a bit harder. |
|||||||||
2640
points
| 23 |
★★★ The Great Outdoors
- with
Josh Mackenzie, Jared Anderson, Keith Bell
1
23
25m
2
23
45m
| 70m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Jul 2020 | |||
Awesome position, and definitely "out there". Old school face adventure where the difficulty is as much in the route finding (especially on the chalkless ground-up onsight) as it is in the moves. With only 8 carrots on P2, its rather "gripping". The traverse on P1 is kinda slippery, and has a proper hard crux for a warmup. Totally worthwhile... but Wild Wild West is probably better
|
|||||||||
2618
points
| 22 |
★★ The Block
- with
Match
| 95m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 31st Oct 2021 | |||
Surprisingly good! Would be classic but for an utterly disgusting exit pitch.
P2 has a nails start, then becomes great laybacking and bottomless chimneying. P3 has a beautiful narrow-corner crack followed by a very rad (but kinda weird) bolted slab that I was working proper hard to onsight. P4 is a blight on the landscape... but at least its short! Therr is a certain archetype of traddy climber in the blueys that NEEDS to get on this - hugh sutherland I'm looking at you! |
|||||||||
2612
points
| 22 | ★★★ Focal Point - with Heath Black | 60m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||
Surprisingly good! Climbs like a harder version of P2 of Catch the Wind, on great rock, and with funky moves to negotiate the steepness. It also isn't too hard for the grade (especially considering how sandbagged trad routes at this grade often are), and was just tonnes of improbable fun to climb. With a touch more traffic (and an exit pitch) this should be a Tradsters trade route.
|
|||||||||
2610
points
| 24 |
FA
★ Tradfear
- with
Heath Black
| 87m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Oct 2021 | |||
A great outing up a major feature (visible from Perry's!) but not necessarily a great route. Steep and atmospheric, but generally average rock. All of the various cruxes are above gear, which makes this feel like a real trad route, despite a few bolts.
The quite bold start to P2 had me get scared and jump off twice before I could change my headspace and push through the runout crux for the send, after which I flashed to the top. A great pitch which is crazy overhanging through multiple roofs. Pitch 3 is short and steep up an overhanging offset arete, but the rock is hideous. Pitch 4 is basically unprotected until you regain Superdyke (after which the rock and climbing greatly increase). |
|||||||||
2604
points
| 23 | ★★★ Spoilt Mercy (Link-up) - with Ben Jenga | 32m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Mar 2020 | |||
A super-logical linkup on generally great rock (marred only by the traverse being kinda contrived). Quite pumpy and sustained. The whole upper half is brilliant.
|
|||||||||
2586
points
| 26 |
★★★ Gigantor (free version)
- with
Match, Monty
1
25
2
26
3
23
| 100m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||
Day 6 for the Redpoint!
I really wanted to come back and improve the style on this. Firstly, because I think mine is the first repeat of the route, and secondly, because this route is both harder and scarier to do it placing the gear (the former for P1, the latter for P2)... It's also proud enough that it warrants the extra effort. So, as you might imagine, I'm pretty chuffed to have gotten this done, and in pretty good style. Full disclosure: I did have the first few pieces of gear clipped off the belay at the start of each pitch. Quote of the day: "Don't get upset if I start freaking out; I'm weak, wimpy Frothy, not bold, strong Zackie" |
|||||||||
2568
points
| 24 | ★★★ Textures of Consciousness - with Simmo | 70m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Dec 2022 | |||
Clean Repeat. Seconding Simmo after the First Ascent. Still bloody great.
|
|||||||||
2563
points
| 24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Matt King, Match, Nathan Kenny, Michael Moore | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 18th Dec 2021 | |||
Clean repeat. Climbed on Michael's gear to exit the crag (and strip the route) at the end of the day.
|
|||||||||
2559
points
| 24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Match | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 4th Dec 2021 | |||
Repeat. Only to half height to retrieve a stuck cam from last weekend, but I then downclimbed on lead all the way through the bottom crux clean as well, so I'm logging an ascent
|
|||||||||
2557
points
| 24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Jared Anderson | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th Nov 2021 | |||
Clean repeat - EOD Pinkpoint lap to facilitate retrieving Marty Doolan 's in situ gear.
Man, sport trad is fun. |
|||||||||
2550
points
| 25 | ★★★ Echo Crack - with Alastair McDowell | 190m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Nov 2016 | |||
If this is my last climb before I get unfit from my new job, at least it's a bloody awesome way to finish! Much better climbing than I expected (even the bottom "crap" pitches weren't all that bad by Blueys Adventure-Trad standards, merely "average"), and the money pitches were utterly spectacular. Not as good as Samarkand, but definitely worthwhile! I found the sustained crack sections on the upper pitches challenging, because (with my added refusal to use tape) they are a really bad size for my hands. P1 (Onsight) - Loose-ish easy corner-crack climbing; P2 (2nd Clean) - Okay climbing up a varied corner system for 2/3rds, then loose finale; P3 (Onsight) - Boulder problem to gain and get established into the crack (I ran this out into scary territory above "okay" gear), then very stance-friendly steep corner-crack climbing, mostly off-hands with a few fists in there; P4 (2nd Clean) - Sustained endurance steep fist-crack test-piece, with a funky -and tricky!- face crimping finale. In HINDSIGHT, my ideal rack for this climb would be: 1 x 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.75; 2 x #1; 3 x #2; 7 x #3 (with some "spaced but tolerable" placements). As it was, on the crux pitch, I ran out the crack quite a lot.
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2537
points
| 25 | ★★★ Grasshopper | 40m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Jun 2020 | |||
Repeat. Helping out a mate
Even more fun when you don't have any pressure whatsoever hanging over your head. |
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2537
points
| 25 | ★★ Cicada | 45m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Jun 2020 | |||
Repeat attempt (not clean). This is almost starting to feel like a ritual: repeat lap(s) on Grasshopper followed by one hail mary attempt at le grande link. This is just so hard absent beta and chalk. Still... probably my best "ground up" attempt yet, mostly turning pear-shaped on the upper crux and battling through the rest.
|
|||||||||
2534
points
| 21 |
★★ The Venom
- with
Glen Thomson
1
18
40m
2
17
20m
3
21
30m
4
18
15m
| 110m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Aug 2022 | |||
Surely one of the best lines in the Gorge? Even quite wet today (after all the rain) this was really rad -and quite gripping. Though untrafficked and a touch loose (it is Glenbrook Gorge, after all) the rock is generally pretty good, and the route takes the plum line up the proudest part of the raddest wall.
Onsight but for P2, which I'd actually climbed previously as part of another route. I definitely found committing to the crux on P3 quite intense, as it's not obvious where it goes. All I'd say is: follow the gear. |
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point
| 28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) - with Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Dec 2021 | |||
2 x laps. The First was a long ordeal, trying to properly suss viable moves/sequences/gear/clipping. The second was to confirm what I learned from the previous lap. Thought I had it all figured out (though it would need a lot of effort still to send!) but on my 2nd lap there was a single move I couldn't repeat. Tired? Or just too hard? Who knows.
IT was rad tackling this knowing I'd need new beta -being the first of my physiology to undertake the challenge. My beta encompassed mono-fingerlocks, and 2-finger stacks through dead-horizontal roof. Painful as hell, but megar megar. Thanks heaps for letting me have a play, Jacques! |
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point
| 28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match | 40m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Nov 2021 | |||
Day 11: Just the one redpoint burn before bailing from the worst conditions I'e ever had. After all the rain the waterfall was pumping, but the 80kmph gusting winds were blowing said waterfall all over the route, and the belay.
On my one burn I powered through the crux like a boss, only to have an epic clipping at the end of the sideways runout due to clipping hold being proper wet. After this I went from below this sequence to the anchor. I just seriously need a bit of luck out here. |
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point
| 28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Will Vidler | 40m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||
Day 10 - 4 more redpoint burns, new highpoint on the jug one move from the no hands rest, on my last shot of the day, pumped to oblivion and unable to finish it off. Got unlucky on the first 2 burns (one fall I ended up BELOW Will after falling off), and had a dry slip while crushing on my 3rd.
2 more days of good connies and I reckon I can get this done. |
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point
| 28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Jared Anderson | 40m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Nov 2021 | |||
Day 9. Equalled my 2nd best highpoint 3 times (out of 4 redpoint burns) but still didn't push any higher. This still makes it my best ratio going through the low crux. More epic beta refinement until I was so tired I could barely jumar out. Forgetting my brush did NOT help things today.
|
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point
| 28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match | 40m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Nov 2021 | |||
Day 8. No new highpoint, though I came up with more reliable (though burlier) beta for the first boulder crux, and totally new beta for the move I fell off on my highpoint (which means I should never do THAT again... assuming I ever get there again).
|
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point
| 28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match, Luke Hef | 40m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | |||
Day 7 - The closest I've come yet. Now including the bottom boulder problem into the rest of the pitch, I fell off on the final moves of the lower half before the no-hands rest. Then on the "one-sit" attempt, I actually stuck the move I normally fall off at the tippy top, but bungled a footer and didn't make the easier moves... But at the end of a big day, I was wrecked.
|
|||||||||
2513
points
| 23 ~21 | ★★ Don't Wet Yourself | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Feb 2022 | |||
Ground-Up Onsight of an (at the time) unclimbed line. Used a #0.5 + #0.75 in the break below the traverse line; #0.2 (Black Totem) after sticking the first hard moves up the detached flake; and a #1 in a horizontal break above the crux.
Made it onto the slab (above the crux) before it was too wet even to manage even mere gr18 slabbing. Piked out from there, rather than continuing on the true line. |
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point
| 28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Match | 40m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Oct 2021 | |||
Day 5. 3 more laps, and twice more the final move gets me. Groundhog day, much?
|
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point
| 28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Vicky Chen | 40m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||
Day 4, 3 more laps. Falling off the final moves at the top of this is fast becoming a theme, here. The sequence is hard in isolation, but after 35m climbing it's hard to have the internal discipline to boulder it out. I put in a lot of effort to refining the sequence, and I think I have finally sorted it out (albeit with the loss of a LOT of skin). The biggest concerns now are exhausting all my (wonderful) belayers, or it getting too hot this season.
|
|||||||||
2510
points
| 23 | ★★ Stolen Valor - with Heath Black | 35m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Feb 2020 | |||
Quite worthwhile, and general good quality rock once the initial crack is dispensed with. Sustained, with no real defined crux, but a few unlikely sequences, and a potentially heartbreaker finish.
|
|||||||||
point
| 28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) | 40m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Oct 2021 | |||
3 more shots. Twice fell off the final crux right at the tippy top. The low crux is still giving me a lot of grief, though. So much fun, falling off doesn't matter all that much (though running out of climbing partners does ).
|
|||||||||
point
| 28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Stephen Varney, Ben Sanford | 40m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Oct 2021 | |||
2 shots. HARD! Some of the most complex and technical steep climbing I've ever done. The dyno at half-height through the roof is outrageous, and the top 15m headwall is nearly Hairline-levels of mega, up a series of improbable linked features. Still one move I've never worked out near the start.
|
|||||||||
2499
points
| 22 |
★★ Jezreel P3
- with
Jared Anderson
3
22
15m
| 15m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Jun 2023 | |||
Repeat -P3 only. Returning to clean up the style of the ascent of P3, now that it's not pouring with water.
Gr22 for P3 seems fair when it's in condition. Awesome roofing protected by a crappy hanger, a #3. a #0.4, and nothing else. Has a bold-ish vibe. |
|||||||||
2483
points
| 23 | ★★★ Wake of the Flood - with Gerry Narkowicz, Stephen Varney | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | |||
Clean repeat. Climbed as a giant pitch from the ground. Man, that top boulder is still nails (I fell off it all the way back to the ledge, then reclimbed the top pitch clean from there placing gear).
I used 2 ropes, but only clipped one for the first 2 pitches, and the other for the final boulder. With a bit of strategy with gear placements and runners, there was no drag whatsoever. For the giant single pitch, bring a double rack 0.3 - 2, and a single #0.2 and #3, as well as an extra 0.5, 0.75 and 1. Wires optional. |
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2473
points
| 24 | ★★★ Supercrack - with Stephen Winnacott | 65m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Jul 2017 | |||
Psyched for the onsight! A burly, perfect #2 cam roof-crack, that overhangs about 9m. Juggy jams, bomber rock, oodles of gear. Super streno with outrageous moves. Kinda intimidating, but not too hard at the grade. We skipped P1 (you can walk around it), P2 - Clean 2nd - intimidating without big gear, awesome steep stemming/chimneying; P3 - Onsight!
|
|||||||||
2454
points
| 24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Match, Gavin | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th Nov 2021 | |||
Another clean repeat, this time seconding Gavin on his successful pink-point. Dreeeeeeeamy
|
|||||||||
2450
points
| 25 | ★★★ Grasshopper - with Will Vidler, Ben Sanford | 40m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 16th Aug 2019 | |||
Clean repeat. As mega as I remember. Would be the bestest ever with better rock. Did a speed "no stopping to rest" lap placing gear for added excitement. The 2 main pitches are mega to link and the most memorable way to climb this. 2 laps.
|
|||||||||
2450
points
| 25 | ★★ Cicada - with Will Vidler, Ben Sanford | 45m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Aug 2019 | |||
Repeat attempt (not clean) trying (yet again) to climb this as a 40m monster... unsuccessful (yet again) as I dogged the hell out of the upper pitch. Old Frothy was MEAN with his route grades! (24???), but at least with the repositioned bolts this is fine for the ground-up attempt. With better rock this would be classic, as it is... its an upper-tier very good.
|
|||||||||
2446
points
| 24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Match, Luke Hef | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | |||
Clean repeat. Seconding Luke at the end of a double-send (of this route) day. Awesome!
|
|||||||||
2444
points
| 24 | ★★ Dauntless - with Match | 170m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Apr 2023 | |||
Just one more big Katoomba Cliffs -with everything that encompasses- mixed epic off the list.
I liked P2, P3 and P5, but the other pitches are really just doddly, chossy access/egress pitches. P2 had some cool, wandery, super runout face climbing, with more sideways than up. The opening mantles were tough! I got off route trying to free an old aid route at one point -eventually broke a hold and took a big whip, realised my mistake, lowered back to a big no-hands ledge, and continued onsighting the correct line. This was my favourite pitch of the route. P3 was a sketchy solo on loose rock to the first bolt, then a cool fused corner, followed by an easy, but airy traverse. P4 is just a short vertical walk. P5 necessitated pioneering some new beta since the crux breakages. I eventually figured out some very unlikely morpho beta that went at the same grade. After the crux, its some pretty wild unprotected campus traversing to the belay. P6 Is a long death by ironstone arete. Easy, but not much gear. P7 is an even more death by ironstone pitch, with even worse gear, leading to a vertical gardening exit. |
|||||||||
2442
points
| 24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Vicky Chen | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||
Seconding Vicky to exit the crag. Clocking up frequent climber miles on this mega classic.
|
|||||||||
2441
points
| 24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 6th Oct 2021 | |||
Clean Repeat. Seconding Dave on his successful Red Point of this route. Sweeeeet. Felt pretty gnarly today after all my time on the proj, but fun fun fun.
|
|||||||||
2432
points
| 24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 8th Sep 2021 | |||
Clean repeat. Still freaking awesome. Great to get back on this seconding Dave and just have a pleasant, stress-free lap. Samarkand, Echo Crack, Grasshopper, Top of the Pops and Thin Line of Reprieve... The mega classic must-do list for mid-20's trad climbing.
|
|||||||||
2431
points
| 20 ~15 | ★★ Just a little deeper - with Philip Barker | 10m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | |||
Short and sweet. Nice and clean for a Gorge crack. I only had 1 cam that fit the crack, so I walked it up the entire way.
|
|||||||||
2406
points
| 22 | FA ★★ The Antivenom - with Glen Thomson, David Dearnley | 110m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Thu 18th Aug 2022 | |||
FFA. Sweet to get this one done despite the crux running with water. Awesome to finally have a small piece of real-estate on a wall that I've been admiring for some 15 years.
Tackles the faces and roofs of Venom Wall (mostly) on gear (though with the odd bolt to keep it sane), with some gripping, old-school climbing and runouts. A worthy companion route to The Venom, in my opinion. |
|||||||||
2399
points
| 26 | David Hicks Memorial Route | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jan 2020 | |||
TRS x 3. Short, but quite intense. Felt desperate in today's heat/humidity. Lots of very thin moves with surprising variety, and an interesting gristone finale.
The bolts are indeed glued-in thread with hangers and nuts. But this is a BYO spanner route, as the nuts undo themselves if a stiff breeze hits them. An absolutely bizarre effort of bolting. |
|||||||||
2388
points
| 25 | ★★★ Samarkand - with Will Vidler | 150m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 24th Feb 2018 | |||
Repeat, this time with a view to ticking the crux pitch. Despite being apprehensive, I ended up ticking the crux P2 solidly placing the gear on lead. Clean Lead: P2, P4, P5. Clean 2nd P1 and P3. THE best Trad multi in the Blueys, and one of the best Blueys multis regardless of style. Outrageous well-protected steep tradding.
|
|||||||||
2387
points
| 24 | ★★ Land of Green Navels | 30m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Sep 2016 | |||
Adventurous! Not much chalk, and it clearly doesn't get climbed much. A single 0.5 cam (purple) is all you need for this. As per the guidebook I took a tonne of gear up, and needed none of it. Sustained complex and varied sequences all the way up, separated by massive rests. The top crux is dissappointingly sandy, but features radical and improbable shouldery moves. The top roof was a waterfall today, which made for an exciting onsight.
|
|||||||||
point
| 27 | ★★★ Proleptic Decrepitude and Despair (Project Paul) | 40m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th Sep 2021 | |||
3 laps. Got some good linkage, but the full link is going to be an endurance test. Bloody steep! 27ish? Perfect conditions today, I hate to think how hard this would be if it was humid.
|
|||||||||
2376
points
| 27 | ★★★ Project Paul | 40m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Sep 2021 | |||
2 laps on TRS. Arctic weather, with the wind blasting me with waterfalls from either side. Made some progress.
|
|||||||||
2366
points
| 20 | ★ 5 Go Adventuring Again - with Heath Black | 50m, 8 | Blue Mountains | Average | Sun 7th Aug 2022 | |||
Linked both pitches. The start is quite dangerous and on very average rock. There is a nice section of steep scoops following this, but the upper section is dull climbing with a deathy runout. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone, really.
|
|||||||||
2364
points
| 20 | FA ★★ Passion in Progress - with Simmo | 120m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Aug 2022 | |||
Ground-up FA. An obvious series of linked corner features. P3 is the money -a longer, more exposed, but chossier version of Catch the Wind- though the FA version of P4 (through the roof) is pretty wild on gear. Unfortunately, P2 was a waterfall, so I had to climb the face next to it (which was kind of dangerous) but when dry, the corner should be easier and safer.
|
|||||||||
2363
points
| 25 | ★★ Strength is Weakness - with Heath Black | 110m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Jul 2020 | |||
Seconding Monty. Pitches 2 and 3 in particular are awesome, though 1 and 4 are relatively inoffensive
The grade of P2 (my favourite pitch) is somewhat disputed. I broke most of a key hold off at the crux, and had to power-scream my way through the new sequence to get it clean on Second. But whatever . |
|||||||||
2344
points
| 21 | ★★ Carrot Unknown3 - with Match, Heath Black | 27m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Aug 2021 | |||
Nice rock, and some great moves up an aesthetic face. The upper half is just good climbing.
|
|||||||||
2340
points
| 25 |
★★ End of Days
- with
Will Vidler
| 120m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Nov 2018 | |||
Great to finally get around to doing this. "Very Good" overall, though P1 to P3 probably warrant "classic" for the overall quality (let down by the upper pitches). Quite easy to rap, especially with ~100m of static to fix the top 3 pitches, and retrieval abseil with a 70m down the bottom 2 pitches. A few weird runouts to the first bolts (in particular on the crux pitch).
P1 (Good) - Trad climbing with a few bolts, and some funky moves near (and around) the arête. P2 (Very Good) - A pleasant face-y warmup leads to a fairly sustained section of technical thinness to gain and start up the arête. P3 (Classic) - Unique in the style for the Blueys. Some genuine sections of pure, demanding stemming. Maybe not hard at the grade, despite only being able to get about 1/8th of a pad in at the crux. I ticked it 2nd lead shot, after breaking a hold at half height on the onsight and having a weird fall (but I never would've onsighted the upper crux... as its too smear-y and body-position dependent). Bring a nut-key and consider giving the crux section of the crack a bit of de-vegetating. P4 (Un-ratable) - Just a junky "access pitch". The standard price of admission for any Blueys multi. P5 (Average) - Okay climbing, but poor rock and covered in a perpetual veneer of grime (due to the type of grey rock it is). Some actual cranks on very dubious footers. As per Will's recommended rack: Small-medium wires, 1x #0.3-#1 and Doubles of #0.5-#1. |
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2319
points
| 24 | FA ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Emil Mandyczewsky | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 3rd Nov 2018 | |||
FFA. Flash FFA, and utterly stoked to do it on this mega piece of rock! Spectacular, steep, water-washed fused corner-crack, in an intimidating position (hell, the whole climb is very intimidating). Technical, sustained, heady... a proper corker for Blueys trad, and genuinely one of the best I've done in NSW.
The 2nd pitch isn't as good, though still worthy for Trad enthusiasts. Its steep, wandery, and committing as you quest off into the unknown in search of gear and a line. |
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2316
points
| 25 | ★★★ Grasshopper | 40m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Jul 2017 | |||
1st shot today, as a giant 50m single pitch, placing all gear on lead. However, I was on it on Tuesday afternoon to pull out about 1kg of vegetation, dry out the crux part of the crack, suss the gear and work the moves on Rope Solo in a loooong session, so "clean 2nd lap" I guess?
Not much crack climbing (though some crack skills will help), but classic all-trad thin face climbing, with spaced, fiddly gear (the crux is a long way above gear, and I used a total of 5 pieces of pro in the top 20m of the climb!). A soaring, inspiring line, and one of the best bits of trad I've climbed in the Blueys. Great to finally get on, and Send this in "good style" after salivating over it for about 6 years. Absolutely brilliant. |
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2307
points
| 24 | ★★★ Oranges Poranges - with Josh Mackenzie, Jared Anderson | 45m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Jul 2020 | |||
Repeat. Seconding Josh's Send. Very "out there" and featuring some dubious rock... but freaking mega regardless. Better and more fun (and easier) than I remember. A pleasure
|
|||||||||
2278
points
| 21 |
★★★ Bungleboori Crack
| 70m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 14th Apr 2020 | |||
A proper soaring line, and way more overhanging than you might think! Some sections of real choss (challenging to negotiate without dislodging on your belayer) but outweighed by the quality of such a proud bit of trad.
I fell off the first (wet and dirty) moves of P1, came down, and went again to send the pitch. The upper half is worthwhile, but the start up the thin crack is quite sandy and terrible. P2 is the money, and probably tonnes of fun with 4+ #3's to actually protect it. As it was I had only a single set of large cams, and spent most of the time being quite terrified, and relying on inferior gear to protect surprisingly gymnastic moves through steepness. It probably made it all the more memorable, really. I slung the giant bollard at the top for an anchor (since I had no gear left). |
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2264
points
| 22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - with Emil Mandyczewsky | 32m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Aug 2018 | |||
Now I've done the ACTUAL Aladinsane (not the faux-Aladinsane). Great, varied climbing with oodles of gear, and only a single patch of crusty rock. No harder than 21, but worthy of its stars. Quite a few sections would be easy to botch, I think.
|
|||||||||
2257
points
| 28 | ★★★ Rough Trade - with Tom Collins | 30m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Jun 2019 | |||
Really good! Completely my style: long, wandery, very spaced bolts, lots of traddy moves. I'll probably bring some supplemental gear next time for a few sections. Very doable, I just need to get back to this before it gets too hot.
|
|||||||||
2246
points
| 25 25 R | ★★ Alive in a Bitter Sea | 90m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Nov 2016 | |||
Stoked! All pitches climbed clean 1st shot today, placing all gear on lead for the true Trad Redpoint tick! As usual, I climb so much better when there's real consequences, and I felt fully engaged and mentally strong the whole way up. Having said that, the tenuous moves above dubious gear on P1 was a slightly gripping warmup, and the excitingly huge runout above gear during the top crux of P2 was a tad ball-shriveling. On the 2nd pitch I used 5 bits of pro and 3 bolts in 40m! A great route in an old-school style, for those who have the time (and dedication) to approach it with the original Warwick Baird mentality: over-inspected and under-protected
|
|||||||||
2229
points
| 23 | ★★ Wrapt | 50m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th May 2021 | |||
2 Laps Clean on TRS. P2 is where it's at. I made up a start doing a rising traverse up from Sidetracks because it looked more fun. Other than the death-runout start, this is actually quite well protected, and quite a lot of fun. The contrived crimp-crux at the end is rather desperate at the grade.
|
|||||||||
2227
points
| 27 25 | ★★★ Psycho Killer - with Heath Black | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Aug 2022 | |||
Some awesome, sustained climbing on great rock.
Unfortunately, a super key hold has snapped off between the 3rd and 4th bolt, making this move now grade 1 billion (I found a mcdougall around it, or you could simply traverse across from SCC higher up). The main slab section is gnarly and sustained, but freaking awesome. I never really figured out the move from the last bolt to the ledge (perhaps it traverses left to the arete?) I'd probably be willing to give it another go in the near future. |
|||||||||
2227
points
| 25 |
★★ Human Cannonball
1
25
15m
2
25
30m
| 45m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Aug 2022 | |||
Aaand the wheels fell off... tiiiired.
Pitch 1 was cool steep bouldering with funky knee-bar trickery, and the onsight went well... until it didn't... but I tried bloody hard - a funky cool little pitch. Pitch 2 is more bum-rock climbing on runout carrots, but quite bouldery and more sustained. I made it to the last of the hard face moves, but couldn't figure it out (even off the carrot) and couldn't aid past it... by this point my head-game was shot from the day, so I downclimbed and bailed. I used a 0.5 cam at the start of P2. With a 60cm runner on the anchor at the end of P1, there was no issue linking these pitches together. |
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2221
points
| 24 | ★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve - with Emil Mandyczewsky | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 11th Nov 2018 | |||
Clean repeat. Returning to improve the style (there was some gear in-situ on the route from reverse-aiding it to get to the ledge... something no one else will have to do now that the access pitch has been established) by placing every single piece of gear on lead.
Still stunning, still gripping. Definitely harder for those with big hands, as you spend a lot of time in insecure positions, cranking off your tips. |
|||||||||
2208
points
| 25 | ★★★ Oranges Poranges - with Will Vidler | 45m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Aug 2019 | |||
EOD lap clean on 2nd taking off the gear and bolt plates. No time (and mixed motivation) for another lap on lead, so this will have to suffice for the interim.
|
|||||||||
2190
points
| 22 | ★★ Risky Chicken | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Dec 2017 | |||
Decided to climb this "direct" finish to Janicepts for something different. Could be a true classic with a bit of cleaning (some wire-brushing on the moss on the high "vague flake feature", a bit of hammering on some snappy edges, and the removal of the vegetation above the Janicepts pod). A brief bouldery crux on small gear, then a similar style and difficulty as the top of Janicepts with no gear. Bring small wires (RPs and a tiny standard rack). I upclimbed and down-climbed from the Janicepts pod for ages trying to find pro and where the holds were hiding before committing. I broke a hold off high up (well above my gear), and somehow managed to hold the fall with one hand (and still had time to swear at the rock). It probably IS only 22 for the redpoint (though I made it seem harder trying to find the holds).
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2187
points
| 26 | ★★★ Titan - with Jacques Beaudoin | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Feb 2021 | |||
Backlogging. 2 Shots. Broke a footer in the final metres of the roof on link on the 2nd shot and fell off... d'oh! Not the best rock, and a little bit underwhelming to look at from the ground... but it climbs really well!!! Burly, beastly, and gymnastic. A tad damp today, but if you can get it in the dry, it's well worth your time.
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2149
points
| 25 | ★★ It Came from Outer Space | 70m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Nov 2016 | |||
Would be a Classic with a rebolt, and without the utterly hellish mantle on P1. With Hugh. Lead all pitches. P1 (Dog) - Fell off at the mantle (15m up), then various falls working out the other nails moves. Quite a bit of gear to supplement the 8 bolts on this pitch (I brought all the wrong gear, so got to place "bad gear" instead). P2 (Dog) - A single fall at another very improbable mantle at the 3rd bolt, but otherwise clean. P3 - Onsight. P1 has a very "gritstone" trad start at about gr22 up to the V5 mantle, which I could do all the "sections" of, but have no chance in hell of linking into the rest of the pitch. After that its a series of extremely powerful (but rad) face moves, then tenuous and desperate (and scary!) moves up the arete to the fully-hanging belay. P2 - Has a steep start, a nutty V3 mantle (think "Dynamics of Change" on the Grit), then tenuous (and run-out) moves up the arete. P3 - A slabby exit pitch. Nothing special.
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Done over about 8 days of effort in total. I originally led the crux pitch as two shorter pitches (27 and 26 respectively) via a hanging belay, before coming back to eliminate the belay and do it properly.