Ascents in Walls Lookdown as various tick types

2nd day working the crux pitch. Jeebus this is hard. Finished the day with bleeding tips and feeling rather sorry for myself. P1 is gr25ish, P2 is a 40m 28ish monster, and I have a lot of work to do. Some of the hardest true face climbing I've tried in the blueys.

4th day on the Project, 2nd day on lead. Great conditions (read: freaking arctic!) except for the waterfall blowing on us intermittently. Made some good progress, got some satisfactory links, also had some dumb punts. Lots more work to do, but at least all the beta is solid, I just need to keep it together. Took a few big falls, and aggravated my ankle again. I was utterly destroyed by the end of the day. Not sure how to train for a hard route in this style?

Day 6. At the end of Day 5 I linked to the last move of the crux on 2 separate laps, today I linked to the final few moves as a warmup, and the last move on the 3 subsequent laps. Conditions much more humid, and slimed off the final crux slimper several times. Last lap I almost held the last move, but the slimper slipped again. Almost out of time now. This might have to wait until after summer.

Top Rope Solo before bolting it. 58m single-pitch above 200m of air, on amazing rock. Mega... Just... Simply... MEGA.

3 laps of the lower 30m (crux) on Top Rope Solo. So... damned... MEGA! My best link on 3rd shot was to the final throw that ends the hardest bit of climbing (the first 25m or so) before I missed the throw, though I still had about 9m of sustained and airy gr22 before I would get a rest. I also added an extra bolt, and bolted the traverse line that gets you to the belay anchors of this from Lunch Ledge. Gr25/26?

3 more laps Top Rope Solo. Some great sections of linkage (have now linked the entire climb in 2 overlapping sections) but still haven't managed to climb it all clean, even on Top Rope. By the 3rd shot yesterday, I was so worn-out that it was all going downhill. Linking from the start of the traverse to the very top, the top (gr24) crux of I Have a Dream became a desperate battle with much shouting, but I did it. Might be time to try a lead attempt.

Spent a day working the entire route... trying to re-learn the original version (the lower 3/5) and dial the new upper section... Unfortunately, despite my best efforts, I never managed to climb either section in isolation clean on Top Rope Solo... Yeah, I'd definitely forgotten how tough the original Elbow Route is. Super-sustained for the better part of 52m or so (after the easy start), with 1 balancy no-hands rest, and just a single jug-horizontal throughout its entirety.

1 lead attempt placing the draws, with biiiiig falls in 3 sections, and much desperate, shouting, shrieking battling to achieve the linkage that I did. This thing is so malevolently sustained and demanding, with so much unrelenting hard climbing in the upper half (in particular, the final boulder just below the top). I tried so hard on this that I felt sick by the time I topped out... awesome!

Did the top half at the start of the day for a 'warm-up'. Great climbing.

Also tried the bottom half later in the day; and couldnt' even pull the moves of the pre-crux crux! Would love to see someone else short (and stronger) try it!

3 more shots, pushing the highpoint higher each time. On my final shot, despite being worn-out and climbing scrappy, I managed to fall off with my hand ON the final jug, 56m up a 58m route! It's kinda funny having to lap everything that makes original Elbow route hard just to get to the upper half of new climbing. Aw well, maybe next time. Still a damned awesome adventure, especially considering the hilarious crowd of climbers on I Have a Dream wall today!

4 more shots. Struggling with the hideously humid conditions on the crux of the original route, and doing my best to achieve new low-points. Radical climbing, but frustrating today. Fortunately, Neil achieved his objective, so at least there was some point to me being here today.

Dogged up to the crux but couldnt stick the holds. Spectacular rock and moves, hard climbing. Be back in better conditions.

Had a play on this marvellous piece of stone whilst out giving Dave a catch on the best arete in the Bluies. I only made it through to the second crux (of six?!) before the big whips did my head in as i threw myself at the sequence without huge success. Initial impressions tell me this route is totally mega, even the 'non-moves' are fricken rad, and I only made it about a third of the way up (which is still like 20m of climbing...) I'll definitely be back but I think a solo mission might be in order because I can't really envision myself figuring out that crux particularly quickly and i don't want to alienate all of my belayers just yet.

Super fun route this. Definitely better than disco, and worth the traverse in. Although next time I’ll abseil. Only had time for one flash attempt. Will have to come back to finish this off.

Unreal route!! Belayed Paul on the send of his ultra mega money pitch which was rad and then got to second it which I did with three rests through the longgggg crux section but with otherwise big links either side. Crazy pumping on mostly good holds that go forever. There was only one move I didn’t fully do which was because I couldn’t get back on to it after sitting on the rope. I then received the dubious honour of doing the FA of the fourth pitch which was fairly amusing but perhaps not as bad as I had been led to believe. Finished the day by sending the final ‘extra’ pitch off the ledge which was a bizarre and rad gritstone arete thing into crazy roof jugs. Great to have Ben out there for the day too, documenting the FA with his photographic expertise and contributing to the general banter. Altogether a super day out hanging around in my favourite spot and getting to be part of a route that I have known about and frothed over for ages!!

Done with 1 fall (at the bouldery crux) and 2 rests. RUNOUT as all hell through proper hard moves (even relative to a gr25 climb), with very good climbing, and stunning position. A small rack of cams could help to mitigate the runouts (there are some good placements). Stoked to have gotten on this, and I believe it will go with another shot. 5 years ago I Had a Dream to be at a point where I could climb and tick I Have a Dream... I'm there now. I'll be back!

Top roped the top half to warm up (belayed from the top), then another shot at the full lead after 2 hours sitting in the hanging belay. Done with 2 falls (one after the other) after sticking the 1st crux. Pulled back on without rest and linked the top 30m of exhilarating climbing, including the top crux. A mistake in the 1st crux burned too much energy correcting it and cost me the send. Next time I won't make the same mistake. Amazing position and hard climbing.

Via original (face) start. Stunning climbing (despite needing a desperate rebolt and some more cleaning) from the 5th bolt up (where you gain the arête proper), with huge exposure, funky arête-slapping moves, and quite good rock... HOWEVER the start (up the face, as it is originally bolted) is literally unclimbable, with entire sheets of rock missing, and anything that "could" be a hold snapping off to the touch. I worked out a way of climbing the arête direct the whole way (at about grade 25?), which is sustainable and super-rad, but the current bolt positioning isn't really positioned for this start. If I get a chance I'll rebolt this climb (with the new start) which will make it a "classic" route.

This pitch absolutely blew my mind. Completely stunning climbing in the most insanely ridiculous position on good rock. I actually can't think of enough superlatives to describe it. Awesome to be out there to belay Paul on the FA and then have a play myself. Toproped all the business on my first shot with two rests (I think) and seconded after Paul's send in a few long sections with rests that were mostly necessitated because i could't remove the bolt plates. Might have to get a bit braver and go out to lead it soon!!

Awesome climbing in an absolutely ridiculous position. Stoked to get all the moves down and to take some proper falls with extreme exposure. Ultra mega classic for sure! Onsighted the second easy half of the route, grade 22 jug hauling. Very keen to come back for this one after a few adventures down south!

Still ultra rad!!! After Harry laid epic siege to this for most of the morning, time constraints combined with large amounts of fear meant i missed out on a lead attempt today. I linked the business end on second with one proper rest and a few bolt plate removal epics and then climbed from the end of the hard stuff to the top clean removing the bolt plates. This will be one to come back for after the Grampians and Tassie!!!

Glad to finally get on this. It's intimidating, yes. But so awesome. Will be back for sure!

Oh my god, just incredible! Couldn't stop smiling after slapping those arete moves. Awesome. Freaken awesome.

Slapping the arete and dynamic pounces leading to barn-dooring (and holding it) was just so damn cool. The top was BEYOND pumpy; my god, gonna have to work on my endurance before linking that together is viable.

3 laps throughout the day (but only topped out once)

First proper redpoint burn in between belaying Paul on the Elbow Route. Awesome to have a solid shot at this and i feel that i did pretty well although it is becoming fairly evident that i will need to up my endurance a bit after a month of fairly moderate climbing in Tassie.

Another two redpoint burns, getting to a new highpoint each time, my best effort seeing me falling off the last properly hard move. Now it's just a matter of seeing if i can climb the 20m 22 that starts just as you finish the 20m 25. I think I shall be doing some serious cragging to fix this endurance thing before i get back on.

Pretty rough warming up. Had a pretty funny whip after my foot got caught around the arete. Seems impossible at first, I was totally peaking hard shitting myself! Came down totally sandbagging myself questioning whether I was worthy of such a route!!!!

Seconding Dave after his send. Super stoked to be back hanging out on this wall. It is the most classic!!

So close to the flash! Not too bad - I just slipped off a dusty crimp round the arete. I couldn't be assed lowering back to the belay so I just pulled back on and climbed to the top. Funky arete climbing for the first few bolts then fun jugging on good holds to the top. I have a Dream and whatever the 27 is called look really good!

Wowzers. What a route. Would "love" to give it a go on lead!

Incredible route! Definitely feels possible with a bit of a beta dial.

i think the exposure just got to my head too much on this one to be able to relax and enjoy it, even on top belay. will definitely have to give it another crack.

Mega! Psyched to finally get on this. Been a while since we've climbed at Pierces and definitely struggled with the exposure on this one, such a wild position on the arete!

Dialling in the beta and collecting draws, hopefully shouldn't take too long

A fun outing. Good rock and nice positions. Interesting techy climbing. The last pitch was the best - don't skip it!! Fell off near the 2nd last draw on the crux pitch 2 after most of the hard stuff - going for a hold that was good but invisible...

This is the full package deal! Really beautiful climbing in a mega epic position! didn't use any cams which added a little excitement, nothing to hard during the run outs.

Been trying to jump on this for a LONG time and finally got around to it. Punted off at the top after getting pumped fiddling with a cam for too long. Such an epic adventure with real classy climbing in an overwhelming setting.

Felt much better on it this time compared with last. Still found the climbing up the left-hand face tough and the top just one hell of a pumper! I guess I have to give it a go on lead at some point...

What a ripper of a route. Mega sustained and technical the whole way. I think I'd want to give this another go or two on top rope before facing the somewhat run out climbing. Definitely going to be coming back for this!

Absolutely awesome - without a doubt one of the best routes I have ever been on. Sustained, technical and engaging face climbing the whole way. Will definitely give this a shot on lead next time