Ascents in Memory Lane

Will remember this one as it was quite full on for Me today:)

Very nice climb, it's all there

Great route, it just sustained the pump throughout with out any particularly hard moves. Loved the double kneebar close to the top for a rest. Be a bit cautious when lowering, on my 60m even with the first bolt unclipped we had to play a few games to get to the ground.

Awesome face climbing! I tied into both rope ends and dropped the end clipped to the ring after reaching the ledge after the traverse. Use a finger size cam or wire at the ledge and maybe a #1 half way up.

Theme of the route: Crank on crimps followed by some fancy footwork and then climb into a good rest. Repeat x 8.

Two out of the ordinary tatics used, why become a strong climber when you can become a smart climber (or a cheater depends how puristic your attitude is):

1. Using a single like a double: Hours of procrastinating on grit videos, paid off. Tied into both ends of the rope, clipped one on the traverse pro and dropped it down once the face starts.

2. Reachy carrots?: Were you an offspring to parents whose pre-existing DNA sequence left you 5' Middleish"? Like in the dating world, a carrot or two on this route prefers tall lanky superiors. Bring out them wires, pull the heads slightly down, have a few ready to roll on your harness.

   Grab the good hold, don't be anxious (you don't need to clip from the worst hold of the route), pull out your cheat mechanism, hook the wire over the bolt, put a draw and clip, synch the head as close to the bolt as possible.

Linked both pitches

Scary traverse climbs better than it looks!

Brilliant. Definitely one of my favourite 21s

Would be logging an onsight if I didn’t freak out on the traverse at the thread. This traverse can be quite dangerous, especially for low ape index people. A bolt slightly to the right of the thread could one day save someone’s ankles.

Rest of the climb is top quality, hard move to get out of the cave at the first bolt, and a few thin sections on the first half but gets easier near the top. I don’t think there is any need to bring cams, all well protected by the carrots, tho some of them might make you work an extra move to reach.

wow what a write up for that other climb - this climb was great and I was stoked to have gotten it.

Climbed this 25 odd years ago and at the time blew my mind as a new aspiring Blueys climber. still just as great and very happy to get it clean. Climbed after Drew, gear pre placed

batman start to avoid traverse. Rested and got pulled up the crux move. awesome climb - thin and long.

great wall climbing. Had a rest mid-way up the wall, but clean otherwise. Bolts are in pretty good condition for 30 year old carrots.

What a route, got my ass kicked on it. Scary traverse leading to a pretty intense face climb for the grade.last climb of the weekend, Will have to come back for it.

glad i found the thread! but then got pumped out of my mind. pretty sure my love of 12 metre sydney routes is not doing wonders for my endurance

Felt much harder then some 24s I’ve pulled on, traverse is burly but the thin face on bolt plates makes it much harder than it should be. Maybe it’s just my beta that’s the issue though.

NOT the best warm-up when you've hardly climbed at all for the past month. Wowsa...got me mega pumped & I took a flyer from the 4th carrot. Exciting climbing.

Need to come back and work on this one properly.

Ran out of juice. Working for the gear sucks. Amazing climbing.

Very tricky transition through the off width to gain the crack on the face.

over grown

Nothing special