Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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21 | ★★ Barefoot in the Head | 30m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th May 2015 | ||||
Worth the journey. Has a few interesting moves
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18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour - with Hampus Holmberg, Kai Becks | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Fri 16th Dec 2022 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 - with Hampus Holmberg, Kai Becks | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 16th Dec 2022 | ||||
Sooo gooood!!
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19 | ★★ Bairds Effort - with Hampus Holmberg, Kai Becks | 37m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 16th Dec 2022 | ||||
Great climb! Cruxy and sustained
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15 | ★ Waglands Effort - with Hampus Holmberg, Kai Becks | 35m | Blue Mountains | Fri 16th Dec 2022 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | Sun 30th Sep 2018 | |||||
18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★ Pretty Boy Floyd | 30m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
14 | ★ How Much is That Doggie in the Window? | 27m, 6 | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★★ Walking Wounded | 20m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | ||||
First shot today, placing the gear. Retro-onsight? (Had a shot at this a few years ago, and struggled with it). Felt good today, though no giveaway. Varied tough sequences between good stances. Strange holds used in strange ways. Ridiculous roof jugs, and a bouldery finish to cap it off. Funky.
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23 | ★★★ Walking Wounded | 20m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Aug 2012 | ||||
Struggled with turning the lip at the end of the roof, but really funky climbing to this point. Desperately needs a bolt down low (even with a #3 cam, its a good 7m of climbing to the placement). Some thin moves, some powerful moves, some weird moves, a roof, and a desperate turn of the lip. If I had more time I'd give this another shot or two, cause it's worth it! Steep!
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25 | ★★ Collateral Damage | 20m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 15th Aug 2018 | ||||
With some TLC, this could be a classic in the same vein as Walking Wounded. Very thin and technical climbing up an appealing red face, broken up by two roofs, worth a lap.
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18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 18th Feb 2012 | ||||
Climbed once before. Not quite as classic as I remember it, but still fun. Easy for a trad 18. I can confirm that another hold has broken off at the start since I climbed it a year ago, making the beginning boulder problem harder than V0(V3/4?)
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18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | ||||
Repeat. I can't count high enough to list the number of times I've repeated this. Still a classic at the grade.
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18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour - with Stephen Varney | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 19th Jun 2019 | ||||
Clean Repeat. Seconding Stephen. Barefoot and chalkless today, because I couldn't be bothered walking back to my gear to collect both. A great old-school line. Traverse in from the right for the best climbing at the start.
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18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Jun 2013 | ||||
10 millionth repeat. Warmup, this time by traversing in (I've ticked the direct start before). Still great value at the great, still worth every minute of it. Classic.
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18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Aug 2012 | ||||
First time leading this, though I've seconded it a few times so I can't claim the flash. Did the direct start (definitely getting harder and harder as holds keep on breaking). This climb feels easier on lead than on second. Some cool climbing with interesting moves, and not too hard.
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21 | ★★ Barefoot in the Head | 30m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 16th Sep 2012 | ||||
Really easy at the grade, with 2 hard-ish moves that only just barely deserve the grade. Might be great without the ledges, instead only "alright".
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17 | ★ The Green Eyed Monster - with Heath Black | 22m, 3 | Blue Mountains | Average | Sun 3rd Jun 2018 | ||||
Seconding Neil. Some okay airy moves on the arete (that seemed kinda challenging for the grade), but stupidly short (10m?) and kinda crunchy rock,
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20 | ★★★ Mindblower | 20m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Jun 2013 | ||||
Repeat. In light rain to make things more interesting. Felt easy, but climbed great. A pleasure every time.
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20 | ★★★ Mindblower | 20m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | ||||
Another repeat. Speed ascent in the "almost dark" without a headlamp. Stunning face climbing, why isn't this 20m longer? Did it with 2 bombproof wires.
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20 | ★★★ Mindblower | 20m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Jun 2018 | ||||
Clean repeat. Always a technical pleasure, though a bit more engaging when damp. The gear top-half feels appropriate.
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20 | ★★★ Mindblower - with Rob Medlicott | 20m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th May 2021 | ||||
Clean repeat. A bloody great warmup, even after all these laps.
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20 | ★★★ Mindblower | 20m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Aug 2012 | ||||
Done as a warm-up. Perfect weather, and nothing was going to stop me getting this tick. Climbs very uniquely for a Blueys face climb, with quite a few intriguing moves. Awesome all the way. Yellow wild-country wire is the key gear placement.
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20 | ★★★ Mindblower | 20m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Feb 2012 | ||||
Raining when I started. Torrential downpour through the crux. Spooged off the last hard move at the top before the anchors. A shame, because I was cruising it until then. Great climbing, technical and exciting. Soft for the grade, though.
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26 25 | ★★ Letters to the Editor - with Rob Medlicott | 25m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th May 2021 | ||||
2nd shot today. By far the hardest of the "Grade 25 Trilogy of Face Classics at Cosmic", and quite a fair bit harder/more sustained than Aesthetic Images. Very sustained, with four demanding cruxes, but all of the bolts are in really bad condition, and the runouts on this at two points are downright dangerous.
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25 | ★★ Letters to the Editor | 25m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 2nd Aug 2017 | ||||
2 laps. A brilliant route. Like Images, it is proper hard at the grade (like 1.5 grades harder than Toyland), and very runout, but stunningly powerful face climbing, with 4 distinct cruxes. Felt like I would put in a good showing on the 2nd lap, and had rad linkage... but the dyno in the middle (which I could sort-of-do on the first lap) totally shut me down on the 2nd lap, and is a bit of a deal breaker for me. The traverse in particular is engaging and demanding. I did a weird number of "foot hops" on this route.
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18 17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Sep 2012 | ||||
Another repeat. A pleasant warm-up and great first-climb back after a month in Kyrgyzstan. A true classic.
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18 17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Feb 2012 | ||||
Probably the most sustained hand-jam crack in the blueys. Absolutely brilliant. I did my first ever hand-jam on this (on second) 1.5 years ago, and was great to come back and lead it again.
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17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 2nd Aug 2017 | ||||
After sending Aesthetic Images, I figured I'd treat myself. Spectacular. Probably the most solid I've ever felt free soloing.
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21 21 R | ★ Battleships | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 20th Jul 2014 | ||||
Climbs a lot like the upper section of Junction City (after the crux first 4 bolts), but is limited by the contrivitae of avoiding Interstate 31 and Junction City on either side (and not clipping the bolts on JC, for a proper trad ascent of this line), and being quite dirty due to lack of traffic. I wandered around to find the odd bit of gear and climb the line of least resistance (I hope that doesn't make me off-route?). Runout enough to be ALMOST dangerous. I placed 7 bits of gear in 30m
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24 | ★★ Junction City | 27m, 13 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Aug 2012 | ||||
Second shot, had to figure out a sequence for the start moves. On the Send shot it was onsight from the 3rd bolt to the top. Really hard, sequency, start until you get to the third bolt, then it gets progressively easier all the way (with a few 22 and 21 moves thrown in for good measure). Really long, and bloody brilliant. Had tonnes of fun on this.
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19 | ★★ Bairds Effort | 37m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | ||||
Repeat. Great to get back on this again as a warm-up, and this time loved every minute of it. Start is probably 21, and the first move in the crack proper is also bloody nails at the grade, but the rest is trad poetry with a variety of moves, styles and great gear (so many wires). Today this felt like bliss.
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19 | ★★ Bairds Effort | 37m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Feb 2012 | ||||
Seconded 1.5 years ago. I found two particular sequences on this quite hard for the grade (and the boulder start is a good challenge). Great, varied climbing, a bit scary, a bit technical, a bit strenuous, and bloody long!
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Sep 2012 | ||||
End of day awesomeness. After the semi-sketchy traverse (thread and 0.4 cam to protect), this climb is a piece of old-school brilliance. MUCH better than Building a Better Mouse Trap. The first half is thin, high-stepping crimpy goodness, and the second half is interesting, obscure moves between jugs and through roofs. In it's entirety its unerringly interesting. Rope drag is a real problem (even with long slings on the appropriate draws). A 70m rope JUST reaches the ground on rap.
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18 | ★★ TZ | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Sep 2012 | ||||
Via the Direct Start. Good climbing for the grade, with a spicy finish to keep it interesting. Shame about the choss and vegetation.
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13 | ★★ TZ Direct Start | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 16th Sep 2012 | ||||
A good start to TZ. Probably harder than 13 though. Some choss and a bit of vegetation.
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18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour - with Brandon | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Nov 2021 | ||||
Sketchy start.
Felt on edge this whole climb, and I panicked and grabbed a draw to rest. Got the move immediately after, wish I just went for it. Good climb |
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17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 - with Brandon | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Nov 2021 | ||||
Brought a few 2s but I wish I had many many more. Had to do some bumping and downclimbing to back-clean.
The climb itself was nice if you commit to the crack moves. So many of the holds were extremely polished and greasy, was pretty unpleasant which is a shame due to the awesomeness of the crack itself. |
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18 | ★★ TZ | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Nov 2006 | ||||
23 | ★★★ Walking Wounded - with Jake Delaney | 20m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | ||||
17 | ★ The Green Eyed Monster - with unswoc | 22m, 3 | Blue Mountains | Sun 30th Oct 2022 | |||||
10 | ★ Alisons Playhouse - with unswoc | 27m | Blue Mountains | Sun 30th Oct 2022 | |||||
21 | ★★ Doctor Doolittle - with unswoc | 18m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Oct 2022 | ||||
Very hard couple moves in there and very easy to go the wrong way and stitch yourself up
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17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 - with alonn | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | ||||
What a mega route for Alonn's first outdoor climb in Australia
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17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 - with Sammy Millard, mira | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 12th Apr 2023 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 - with Jake Delaney | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | ||||
19 | ★★ Bairds Effort - with Sammy Millard, mira | 37m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 12th Apr 2023 | ||||
Really liked this one!
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15 | ★ Waglands Effort - with unswoc | 35m | Blue Mountains | Sun 30th Oct 2022 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - with Jake Delaney | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | ||||
21 | ★★ Barefoot in the Head | 30m, 6 | Blue Mountains | Mon 2nd Aug 2010 | |||||
18 17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | Mon 2nd Aug 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour - with Michael Law, Mikl Law, Eugene Mak | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Dec 2018 | ||||
Lovely!
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23 | ★★★ Walking Wounded | 20m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Average | 1997 | ||||
18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Average | 1997 | ||||
20 | ★★ Pretty Boy Floyd | 30m | Blue Mountains | 1997 | |||||
21 | ★★ Barefoot in the Head | 30m, 6 | Blue Mountains | 1997 | |||||
14 | ★ How Much is That Doggie in the Window? | 27m, 6 | Blue Mountains | 1997 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Mindblower | 20m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | 1997 | ||||
18 17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | 1997 | ||||
19 | ★★ Bairds Effort | 37m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | 1997 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | 1997 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 - with Sean Peters, Jess C, Luke | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Oct 2020 | ||||
19 | ★★ Bairds Effort - with Sean Peters, Jess C, Luke | 37m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Oct 2020 | ||||
Move off the ground is the crux. Heaps of bomber nut placements, so much so I ran out of quickdraws.
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18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Sat 19th Apr 2003 | |||||
15 | ★ Bell Bottom Pants | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 19th Apr 2003 | ||||
14 | ★ How Much is That Doggie in the Window? | 27m, 6 | Blue Mountains | Sat 19th Apr 2003 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | Sat 19th Apr 2003 | |||||
18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Mindblower | 20m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
19 | ★★ Bairds Effort | 37m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
23 | ★★★ Walking Wounded | 20m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Jun 2015 | ||||
Loooong moves on sharp as hell rock that ripped my ring finger to shreds and given me 3 flappers. Still; worth it. Roger Austin
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18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour - with Roger Austin | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Jun 2015 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Oct 2018 | ||||
I don't remember the last time I fought so hard for a climb. If I were to do the maths right, without shame I can say "60% crack climbing and 40% face climbing".
The jams are super solid, only thing that gets you is the sequencing of the hands and the feet. Shout out to the nice couple who showed us the walk in and told us their honest story of the time when they first brought crack gloves in the old days, "We thought it was gonna work like magic, but we soon realized that the technique didn't come with it". If Sauron can't summon all the #2s in the seven realms, he shouldn't be disheartened. 2 x #3s, 4 x #2s, 3 x #1s were used in the battle of the polished crack. |
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15 | ★ Waglands Effort | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Oct 2018 | ||||
An epic case study of how one can f**k up rope drag on double ropes. 5m from the anchor, it got so bad that I had to make a belay of my lucky microcam (has saved me life once before) and a tiny nut.
Try not to be tempted to hit the arete too early, before you get to the great ledge. Fun in the future, scary in the present. |
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Sep 2020 | ||||
Theme of the route: Crank on crimps followed by some fancy footwork and then climb into a good rest. Repeat x 8.
Two out of the ordinary tatics used, why become a strong climber when you can become a smart climber (or a cheater depends how puristic your attitude is):
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18 17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Mar 2006 | ||||
not pure o/s as 3 in situ pieces from other climber's attempt
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18 17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Mar 2006 | ||||
not pure o/s as 3 in situ pieces from other climber's attempt
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17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | Mon 21st Oct 2019 | |||||
18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 22nd May 2017 | ||||
Lots of fun. Still felt spicy at the start!!
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19 | ★★ Godzilla Versus the Smog Monster - with Gee Rad | 5m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 22nd May 2017 | ||||
Probably the best mini route I've ever done. Class...and surprisingly worth the faff. If only it was 10x bigger!!
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17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 19th May 2016 | ||||
19 | ★★ Bairds Effort | 37m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 19th May 2016 | ||||
Ohh what a spectacle!!
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - with Gee Rad | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 22nd May 2017 | ||||
NOT the best warm-up when you've hardly climbed at all for the past month. Wowsa...got me mega pumped & I took a flyer from the 4th carrot. Exciting climbing.
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23 | ★★★ Walking Wounded | 20m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 5th Aug 2013 | ||||
Sick route, so good... Grampians feel
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18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 7th May 2013 | ||||
Best 18 ever? So much fun, burly move at the start
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21 | ★★ Barefoot in the Head | 30m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Mon 5th Aug 2013 | ||||
Good fun moves, broken up in sections with good rest, worth a climb!
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14 | ★ How Much is That Doggie in the Window? | 27m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Aug 2013 | ||||
Sneakers and downie ascent... Used it to take photos
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20 | ★★★ Mindblower | 20m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 7th May 2013 | ||||
Best finger crack? That nut placement is so good up high, loved it!
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24 | ★★ Junction City | 27m, 13 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Aug 2013 | ||||
Didn't tick the dyno first shot, found a static way to do the move, nice enjoyable climbing that eases up as you go higher
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 3rd Aug 2013 | ||||
Absolute stunner! Classis Blueys climbing, crimping your way up! The death traverse with no pro is enjoyable once you get your head in the right space!
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21 | ★ New Boots and Panties Direct | 17m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Jul 2006 | ||||
Solid and pumpy, the anchor needs a chain to the edge.
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18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 25th Sep 2005 | ||||
Excelent.
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15 | ★ Bell Bottom Pants | 25m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 29th Jul 2006 | ||||
thought this was a tad hard for 10. well protected if you are careful.
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14 | ★ How Much is That Doggie in the Window? | 27m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 25th Sep 2005 | ||||
Nice warmup.
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11 | ★ Scary Monsters | 22m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 29th Jul 2006 | ||||
exposed TR to a photo ledge.
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21 | ★ Mekong Charlie | 23m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Jul 2006 | ||||
Easy this time.
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21 | ★ Mekong Charlie | 23m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 25th Sep 2005 | ||||
fell after the hard stuff, why???
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