1st line of fixed hangers to the right of the start of strangeness
36m (21) Really good climbing and worth doing as a single pitch. Follow up the Fixe hangers to chains (some long slings are helpful). Lowering off using al 70m rope will JUST make it down to the ground.
35 m (27) Solid climbing that would give an impressive on-sight. Follow the steel to finish at a semi-hanging belay. Originally done without the last bolt.
-m (30) Sail out into the slab with solid sustained climbing on a long pitch.
Hard and sustained, start a few metres right of the overhang on bolts. Goes up 6 pitches and nicely run out at times. A small rack can lessen run outs.
An old Andrew Bull/Tony Barton project cleaned up and finished by Graham Fairbain. Climb details to be verified. At least 6 pitches - crux pitch of 26/27. Sport route on fixed hangers.
Please note that the description and grades are preliminary only.
You'll need two ropes to get down. It is possible to retreat from any of the belays. The rap line, however, does not not follow the route directly (i.e., you can't easily stop at pitches 2 or 3 on the way down because the pitches above them traverse and they are steepish. So best not to leave stuff you want to collect on the way down at these belays (e.g., don't leave your extra clothes etc. in the hole!).
Start: Line of hangers to the right of 'Big, Dark and Mysterious'.
20m (18) Start in short open corner and head up following bolts. A small/medium nut reduces the runout up the slab. Belay on bolts just below the first overlap.
20m (23) Cruxy. Out roof (crux) and up slabby wall. Continue past rap anchor and two more bolts to bolted belay up under the second overlap. It may be more comfortable to belay at the rap anchor - it gives a better view of the next pitch.
25m (26) Traverse left from the belay to the stalagtite and out the overlap. Into the corner to the right, up a couple of metres and head left and up following bolts. Belay in the big hole. Great climbing!
45m (23) A great, sustained pitch. Out of the belay hole to the left and follow bolts up. At about the half-way mark is an obvious thread that may make the run out a bit more comfortable, it requires a 120cm sling. Where the bolts trend right, use a couple of long slings to reduce drag. At about 35m, clip a bolt to the right (long sling) and head up and left easily to the belay.
Be cautious rapping from here - if you thread all three bolts the rope may not pull. Rap to anchor on ledge 10m left of the third belay. Rap again to station halfway up Pitch 2, and again to the ground.
20m (25) Up yellow powdery corner system. After corner bust right to chains (don’t pull the block off!)
28m (21) Continue up corner via some cool moves and terrible rock to finish at chains. Rap route.
(25) 30m Sort of popular as a wet weather single pitch. Start on the grungy looking slab left of the corner to a 5m roof then pull the lip and pump on till the ledge. One of the best pitches from the gorge floor.
(24) 40m Continue up on bolts that snake around, take 2 long runners. Finish under the little orange roof.
(23) 15m A short pitch. Pull the roof then great sustained climbing till the semi hanging belay.
