Showing all 74 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
31 | |||||
South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall | |||||
31 | ★★ Obi goes to Fungonia
Fantastic steep gymnastic climbing out of the initial cave then navigates some more tenuous climbing up several shallow tufas to the crux. Starts in the cave at the left end of the fixed rope and finishes as for the final 2 bolts of Sith Lord. Set: lee cossey, 2001 FFA: lee cossey, 18 Jun 2017 | 32m | |||
North Wall - Main | |||||
31 | ★★★ Teflon
Fantastic rock and sustained. 12 bolts on the white wall. FA: Lee Cossey, 2001 | 23m | |||
30 | |||||
South Wall - Main | |||||
30 | ★★ Flaming Galah
1
24
25m
2
21
40m
3
19
30m
4
24
25m
5
26
50m
6
30
30m
7
27
30m
Excellent continuous climbing that pushes a direct line up the centre of the South Wall. The first 4 pitches of this route makes for a straight forward sports climb that is easy to get off in 2 raps if climbing with double ropes. Sport bolted over 6 long days.
FFA: Jan (Czech) FA: Chris Warner, 2006 | 230m, 7 | |||
North Wall - Main | |||||
30 | ★★ Kevlar
Between Teflon and Olympus mons. Finish at Teflon anchor. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 2008 | 25m | |||
30 | ★★ Big, Dark and Mysterious
1st line of fixed hangers to the right of the start of strangeness
FFA: pitch 3 freed by Jan (czech) FA: Graham Fairbain, 2005 | 3 | |||
29 | |||||
South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall | |||||
29 | Nails
The very appealing steep left-trending blunt arete just left of Fluidity. Looks great so we'll open the bidding at 2 stars. Higher or lower bids accepted! 30 the way Phil did it, but some better beta was later found. FA: Phil Sage 2000s | 20m | |||
29 | Fluidity
Just left of the open project. The shortest route in the gorge but mega burly. FA: Andy Richardson, 2011 | 4 | |||
South Wall - Main | |||||
29 | ★★★ Luminous Blue
1
23
50m
2
24
40m
3
28
30m
4
27
30m
5
23
50m
6
23
45m
7
26
20m
8
29
20m
9
20
25m
An awesome excursion taking the line of most resistance up the tallest section of the south wall. The route takes in some wild and physical territory as it journeys up the wall to its final crux just below the rim of the gorge. Starts on the clean section of slab a short distance right of the base of Red Supergiant and just before the base of the wall becomes a jungle. It is easily identified by the stainless steel fixed hangers meandering up the slab and into the steepness beyond.
Set: lee cossey, 21 Nov 2016 FFA: lee cossey & Andrea Hah, 26 Aug 2017 | 310m, 9, 99 | |||
28 | |||||
South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall | |||||
28 | Phantom Menace
More incredible limestone. Start as for the previous two routes for one bolt, then traverse left on FHs to groove - then up wall above. 60m rope will NOT reach belay - lower to fixed biners near cave then lower again. FA: Andrew Bull, 1999 | 35m | |||
North Wall - Main | |||||
28 | ★★ Jealous Mistress
Hard and sustained, start a few metres right of the overhang on bolts. Goes up 6 pitches and nicely run out at times. A small rack can lessen run outs. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 2007 | 4 | |||
27 | |||||
South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Sith Lord
Really good. FA: Rob LeBreton, 1999 | 25m | |||
27 | ★★ White zombie
Starts half a metre left of Sarah Fieg's Route. Bouldery and direct up little prow. Shares anchor with previous route. There's also a LH finish along the lip of the roof to finish into Polenta Pumper. FA: George Fieg & late 90s | 17m | |||
South Wall - Main | |||||
27 | ★★ Pumpmaster
Between 'Evolution Direct Finish' and 'The Other End of Evolution'. After freeing past the first three bolts on Evolution P7 take a long rest on the ledge, then head straight up past 9 more bolts. FA: Rikard Hedman, 18 Oct 2015 | 30m, 12 | |||
27 | ★★★ Kia Kaha Direct
1
26
30m
2
27
20m
Variant to Air Malta overhang. Kia kaha is a Māori phrase used by the people of New Zealand meaning stay strong, used as an affirmation. The phrase has significant meaning for Māori: popularised through its usage by the 28th Māori Battalion during World War II, it is found in titles of books and songs, as well as a motto.
FA: Duncan Hunter FFA: Mark Rewi & Duncan Hunter, 26 Mar 2016 | 50m | |||
26 | |||||
South Wall - Cooee Point | |||||
26 | The Comfort Zone
Rap into the 'Continuum' cave, and then a further rap down the orange wall to the right-hand belay. Up pumpy orange wall then through bulge to cave.
FA: Lee Cossey (pitch 1) late 90s, 2000 | 40m, 2, 10 | |||
South Wall - Main | |||||
26 | ★★★ Asteroids
1
26
30m
2
16
35m
3
20
30m
4
24
25m
5
20
15m
6
23
45m
This route starts 5 pitches up the wall! Best accessed by climbing all of Iron Curtain, then pitch six of Screaming Tribesman. Asteroids starts at this belay.
Above this to get back to the car park walk left for 30m to the old Cooee lookout and old fences, then follow the overgrown green track to the car up the hill. I reckon this new route by itself is two stars and combining it with Iron Curtain makes an awesome three star day of cranking! I can't think of many other sustained long routes in mainland Australia at that length? It's gotta be 350+ metres? Way longer than Evolution or Siblings. Bring a helmet and don't expect pristine Euro limestone... FFA: Duncan Hunter, 2011 | 180m, 6 | |||
North Wall - Main | |||||
26 | ★★★ Masters of the Universe
An old Andrew Bull/Tony Barton project cleaned up and finished by Graham Fairbain. Climb details to be verified. At least 6 pitches - crux pitch of 26/27. Sport route on fixed hangers. Please note that the description and grades are preliminary only. You'll need two ropes to get down. It is possible to retreat from any of the belays. The rap line, however, does not not follow the route directly (i.e., you can't easily stop at pitches 2 or 3 on the way down because the pitches above them traverse and they are steepish. So best not to leave stuff you want to collect on the way down at these belays (e.g., don't leave your extra clothes etc. in the hole!). Start: Line of hangers to the right of 'Big, Dark and Mysterious'.
FA: Graham Fairbain, 2005 | 160m, 6 | |||
25 | |||||
Reflux Crag | |||||
25 | ★★ To see life as a worthy opponent
A steep arete next to the approach track. FA: nathanual hebbard, 4 Feb 2023 | 10m, 6 | |||
South Wall - Cooee Point | |||||
25 | Unknown 25
The line with 9 bolts and a hard start. It is possible to avoid the start by traversing in from the right, in which case the route goes at about 23. | ||||
25 | ★★ Continuum
Rap in from 3-bolt anchor 15m right (facing out from the cliff) of the lookout.
FA: Justin Clarke (pitch 1). Justin Clarke & Lee Cossey (pitch 2) late 90s, 2000 | 50m, 2, 10 | |||
South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall | |||||
25 | ★★★ Attack of the Clones
Fantastic sustained climbing on tufa blobs and flowstone - reminiscent of Kalymnos. Shares the crappy awkward belay and first couple of bolts with DS, then take the left of the two ringbolted routes. This is a full 30m pitch, with a 60m rope you will only JUST make it to the belay. Its much less uncomfortable to belay 5m lower, as for The Force, if you have a long rope and/or rethread. *Dodgy clip and go has been removed. There's a string of seized Mallions and an ok looking alloy biner on the anchor. If anyone is heading up to fix it, take WD40,long shifter and screwdriver, stainless mallions and either a short bit of chain or a couple of clip and go's. | 31m | |||
25 | ★★★ Degabar System
Great tufa pulling. Very awkward belay on double bolts on orange slab at right end of fixed rope traverse. Traverse up and right across horizontal break and take the right of the two ring bolted lines. Big tufa feature for most of the way, then tricky orange face to finish. 60m rope WILL NOT reach the belay on lower-off. Its much less uncomfortable to belay 5m lower, as for The Force, if you have a long rope and/or rethread. FA: Andy Richardson, 2001 | 33m | |||
25 | ★★ Polenta Pumper
Very good, very pumpy. The original route on this wall. Start beneath the obvious roof at 15m and follow a line of stainless steel fixed hangers up square cut slopers. If climbing on Phantom Menace Wall you need to continue on easy ground for 10m (two bolts) to Big Greenie ledge and bolt belay. It's 30m from this high anchor to the ground. FA: Mike Peck, 1987 FFA: Mike Law-Smith, 1988 | 25m, 7 | |||
South Wall - Main | |||||
25 | Medusa
Takes a line between 'Siblings Of The Sun' and 'Albino'. Start as for Siblings. All bolts, no gear or brackets required. Follow the Penumbra Variant from the top of Pitch 2 of Siblings. 'Medusa' starts from the tree belay between the two climbing pitches of the Penumbra Variant.
FA: Robyn Cleland & Vera Wong, 2000 | 130m, 5 | |||
25 | ★★ Flubless
Good, free of charge, training to reach flawlessness. As for 'The Other End of Evolution' to the top of the recess. Exit this to the right into a a narrower vertical scoop. Funky moves straight up more scoops and a flake until you pull over onto the slab. To finish either head straight up past two more bolts to anchor or diagonally right to Jumpmaster belay. FA: Rikard Hedman & Damian Jovanovic, 6 Aug 2015 | 30m, 11 | |||
25 | ★★★ Air Malta
1
23
30m
2
21
20m
3
22
60m
4
25
30m
5
23
20m
6
22
60m
Starts left of Nitro Express. From the river bed skirt up and along a ledge to near its end. All bolts and for Bungonia very clean with little loose rock.
Set: Duncan Hunter, Michael Demarco & Johannes Friedl FFA: Duncan Hunter FA: Duncan Hunter & Michael Demarco, 15 Mar 2016 | 220m, 6, 18 | |||
North Wall - Main | |||||
25 | ★★ Dark Side of a Loon
1
25
30m
2
24
40m
3
23
15m
Starts 5m left of Jewel Box
FA: Chris Warner, 2008 | 85m, 3 | |||
24 | |||||
Reflux Crag | |||||
24 | ★★ Sticky Fingers
Revamped as a sporty on brackets FA: Mike Law Smith | 12m | |||
South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall | |||||
24 | ★★ Jabba the Hut
Right line of bolts off the ledge above Wicket. Flowstone corner and face to luscious ceiling and punchy pocketed finish. There is a single rap ring under the roof to aid cleaning the route. FA: Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes & Matt, 2012 | 22m | |||
24 | ★★ Sarah Fieg's Route
Just left of the corner. Water washed rock for a few bolts then left and up to anchors. Has been rebolted - new shiny FHs. Some are already loose and required finger tightening (2016, still true in 2019). FA: Sarah Fieg & late 90s | 17m | |||
South Wall - Main | |||||
24 | Andrew's Arête
An alternative way to get to the top of the spike and the first belay of Siblings of the Sun. Great climbing and eases off a lot after the first bolt. The route takes the sharp bolted arête 5m left of the corner crack of Siblings pitch 1, starting on its right side then switching to the left. FFA: Steve Monks early 90s, 1990 | 35m | |||
24 | ★★★ The Other End of Evolution
A harder exit to Evolution, without the bushwhacking. Start with the bolt ladder on the last pitch of Evolution (aid 3 bolts or free at grade 24), then head diagonally right past a bolt into a scoopy recess. From the top of the recess exit left through the overhang, then straight up to pull over onto a slab. Continue straight up and then left to join 'Pumpmaster'. A couple of long draws on the bolts in the recess help reduce rope drag. FA: Rikard Hedman, 15 Aug 2015 | 30m, 12 | |||
North Wall - Chicken Wall | |||||
24 | ★ Hawaiian Pack
The right line. 11 bolts. FA: Rob LeBreton, 1999 | 30m, 11 | |||
23 | |||||
South Wall - Cooee Point | |||||
23 | Unknown
Start as for 'Siren', but up the left-hand line. Ring bolts & FHs to the same DRB as 'Siren'. | 15m | |||
23 | Siren
Up the face then continue right to the base of the arête. Up the arête to double rings. About 6 bolts. Start: Starts from the top of the gully. Double rings at base. | 15m | |||
South Wall - Efflux Crag | |||||
23 | Brass Razoo
A good face climb on bolts. FA: Chris Warner, 2004 | 20m | |||
South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall | |||||
23 | ★★★ Death Starred
Amazing limestone features. Left line off the ledge climbing the flowstone corner (take care with the stalactite) then climb left onto the prow on mega buckets and then up the steep headwall with spicey finish. Neil managed to drop a large rock on himself whilst bolting this - lucky it hit his body not his head. FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Shultz, 2012 | 23m | |||
North Wall - Chicken Wall | |||||
23 | ★ Finger Lickin' Good
The left line. Sustained blocky edges and sidepulls with a rooflet in the middle. A bit dirty but good climbing. Needs more traffic! FA: Andrew Bull, 1999 | 25m, 9 | |||
22 | |||||
SRC Crag | |||||
22 | ★★ Unknown 2
Such a great little climb. Slabby start with plenty of smearing and super sharp finger pockets. Next its up the tufa arete and across to gain holds on the hanging flake (rock solid). Once you are standing on top of the flake you can take a well-earned break, before the final push to the top. Back onto the arete and deep inside a hole for a hand jamb, then straight up the face to DDB. Set: jason hayes, 1995 FA: jason hayes, 1995 | 12m | |||
South Wall - Cooee Point | |||||
22 | ★ This is Hip
Rap down to the double bolt belay. Good climbing on pockets and jugs. The furthest right line of bolts (facing the cliff). FA: Mike Peck, Wendy Stevenson & Phil Dunne, 1990 | 15m | |||
22 | ★★ In the Realm of the Senses
Up following the bolts. Start: Look for the double ring bolt belay down from a dead eucalypt 30m right (facing out from the cliff) of the lookout. Rap down to a ledge and double ring bolt belay. FA: Brogan Bunt & Tony Barten 90s, 1990 | 25m | |||
South Wall - Little Thai Wall | |||||
22 | ★★ Gilding the Lily
A good warm up on bolts with some tufa up high. Start 50m upstream from the intersection of the Red Track and the bottom of the gorge. Depending on the level of water in the lagoon, and the state of the deposited silt and rocks, you might get your feet wet. The expansion bolts and dodgy anchor on this route could do with replacement - treat them with caution. FA: Chris Warner, 2003 | 25m, 9 | |||
22 | ★ Reservoir Dogs
3 metres left of Gilding lily. A variety of interesting hold types makes this an enjoyable moderate for the gorge. FA: nathanual hebbard & Joel Ovington, 9 Apr 2023 | 25m, 9 | |||
22 | ★★ A Tufa to Far
A nice tufa route in the middle of the wall. It has some hidden good holds. FFA: Ben Jenga, 2011 | 25m | |||
South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall | |||||
22 | ★★ The Force
Belay from double bolt anchor 8m along the Access Traverse route, below the orange left facing chimney. Up chimney for a move (clip first bolt inside chimney with a long sling) then FHs out right and up crozzley grey slab then amazing overhung tufa groove and flowstone wall to final tricky bulge. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 26m, 11 | |||
South Wall - Main | |||||
22 | ★ Bob Yabbie
FA: David (Bobby) Gilbert & Greg Coterill, 1988 | ||||
21 | |||||
North Wall - Main | |||||
21 | ★ Arctic Cat
FA: Chris Fitzgerald, Jul 2014 | 25m | |||
21 | ★★ She Wolf in the Closet
FA: Chris Warner, Sep 2014 | 22m | |||
20 | |||||
SRC Crag | |||||
20 | ★ Unknown 1
The contrived line of bolts furthest left, just left of the arete. Set: jason hayes, 1995 | 12m | |||
Reflux Crag | |||||
20 | ★ Punchy
FA: Mike Law Smith | 12m | |||
20 | A Ranger Deal
Start on the face and right side of the arete, behind a large tree. Very high first bolt - stick clip recommended. Upper third is a bit odd... Nice climbing to be had direct up the bulge, but the third bolt is actually hidden down and right behind a small bush and the route finishes with a traverse across to the rings on Angry Ants. | 12m, 3 | |||
South Wall - Little Thai Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Lame Duck
To the right of Gilding The Lily. Finishes just under the roof at half height. FA: Chris Warner, 2003 | 15m | |||
South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Jabba the Short
Jabba the Slut, stopping at the ringbolt under the roof. A good warm up if you get dragged up here on a 5 degree day. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 15m, 7 | |||
South Wall - Main | |||||
20 | Antique
Up the slab past three bolts to ledge and tree. | 50m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ Stardust
The next line right with four spaced FHs. Apparently there is no rap anchor so after the last bolt and below the overlap traverse left a long way to rap anchors above Pulsar. FA: Scott Camps, 1985 | 50m, 4 | |||
19 | |||||
Reflux Crag | |||||
19 | ★ Who's got the water.
Up arete, into the crack then back out and over bulge. Double ring loweroffs. | 12m, 5 | |||
North Wall - Main | |||||
19 | ★ Black Holes
FA: Chris Warner & Kristy Shelley, Jun 2014 | 25m | |||
19 | ★ Hips Don't Lie
Start up the water groove to the tree, then crimp up past the hanging roots to chain. FA: Chris Warner, Sep 2014 | 25m | |||
18 | |||||
Reflux Crag | |||||
18 | ★ Angry Ants
Starts at twin cracks. Crux is high above the third bolt as you move up to the rings. | 10m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Unknown 1
Righthand line up the pumpy arete, sharing the first two bolts with Finger Pockets. The grade is a bit of a guess. Single lower off and requires a careful down climb to clean due to dramatic swing possibility. | 10m, 5 | |||
17 | |||||
Reflux Crag | |||||
17 | ★★ Solar Fix
Start just below the S shaped gum tree. Be prepared for committing moves all the way to the top. FA: Simon Vaughan | 12m, 6 | |||
17 | ★ Limestone Cowboys
Ascends the western side (climbers right) of the walk-through cave, starting on its right. FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009 | 12m, 6 | |||
17 | ★★ Captain Caveman
Juggy, left-trending line of holds, starting just right of the through-the-cliff cave on its eastern side (climber's left). Difficult start for the grade, even if the tree is 'on-route'... Great variety through the pitch and rewarding views. Good rings at the top. Can be top roped. | 14m, 7 | |||
17 | ★★ Finger Pockets
Left line on the slabby arete down and left of the cave, sharing the first two bolts with Unknown 1. Stick clip the 1st hanger and a bit run-out on the slab. Single carabiner lower off (second anchor bolt needs a hanger). | 8m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Blue Rock Party
5m right of the arete project is another punchy little sport route. | 10m | |||
South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall | |||||
17 | Wicket
Short access pitch to reach Jabba the Slut & Death Starred starting at rap anchors above Polenta Pumper on Big Greenie ledge. Old FH, sling around tufa and new FH through steep bit. An orange fixed line hangs over the lower part and then heads left via the start of The Force. FFA: Neil Monteith, Matt Shultz & Lee Cujes, 2012 | 10m, 3 | |||
16 | |||||
Reflux Crag | |||||
16 | ★ Tree Huggers Delight
Start with big moves straight up arete. Starting up crack is only grade 15. FFA: Simon Vaughan | 10m, 4 | |||
South Wall - Efflux Crag | |||||
16 | Hooey
FA: Chris Warner, 2004 | 18m | |||
15 | |||||
Reflux Crag | |||||
15 | Reflux
FA: Simon Vaughan | 10m | |||
14 | |||||
Reflux Crag | |||||
14 | ★ Modge
Juggy start, crux last move. FA: Simon Vaughan | 10m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Blackboy Back Flip
Mount a small ledge and move up and left to the first bolt. Follows the crack on the righthand side of the arete for the central third, then nice moves out to the right across the face and up to lower offs. | 12m, 3 | |||
South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall | |||||
14 | Access Traverse
A fully bolted rising traverse with a fixed rope starting as for Wicket for one bolt then heading left along a series of ledges and slabby chimneys. This route is used to access the various belay stances for routes in the centre of Phantom Menace Wall. The rope in the upper half (beyond Attack of the Clones) is old - treat with massive caution! | 30m | |||
13 | |||||
South Wall - Little Thai Wall | |||||
13 | Jug-a-licious
The first route on the left just off the red track. Was looking like a nice easy line ground up bolting untill the rock turns to choss. FFA: Ben Jenga., 2011 | 8m | |||
South Wall - Little Thai Wall | |||||
cave route, Closed Project
Closed project, partially rebolted. | 18m |
Showing all 74 routes.