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Ascents in Camels Hump by Dave Scarlett

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Showing all 93 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 6th Feb 2022 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Warfront Wall
18 War Front Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
Very thin at the start, but gets a lot easier after the second bolt. Stick-clip highly advisable!

 
Sun 6th Feb 2022 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
16 Wishful Thinking Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
Sun 6th Feb 2022 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Summit Boulders Up and Over Boulder
V1 Hand Over Fist Boulder Don't Bother
20 Up and Over Boulder Don't Bother
Jugs. Definitely a lot softer than the claimed grade.

 
15 Face Swap Boulder Don't Bother
Sun 6th Feb 2022 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Summit Boulders Creeper Boulder
21 Creeper... Boulder Don't Bother
Tree to the left of the boulder seems to have gotten a lot bigger and is seriously encroaching on this route. Still looks possible at maybe V1-V2 with a sit-start.

 
13 Aww Man Boulder Don't Bother
Sun 6th Feb 2022 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Back Wall
16 Undertow Sport 15m, 5 Good
15 Summer Breeze Sport 15m, 4 Good
Sun 6th Jan 2019 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
16 Wishful Thinking Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
Sun 6th Jan 2019 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
16 Split Images Mixed trad 20m, 2 Good
Sun 6th Jan 2019 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Back Wall
16 Waning Crescent Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
Sun 11th Nov 2018 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Back Wall
19 Rap Till You Crap Trad 15m Good
15 The Tell-Tale Shart Sport 8m, 3 Good
Sat 21st Apr 2018 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
16 Wishful Thinking Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
Sat 21st Apr 2018 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
17 Poxbow Trad 30m Very Good
Frighteningly sparse gear through the corner at 1/2 height. Managed to get two cams in, a red and a blue, where the crack opens a metre below the hard moves there, but neither were ideal placements. That's definitely the mental crux, with the physical crux being the top of the finishing flake.

 
Sat 21st Apr 2018 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Back Wall
16 Undertow Sport 15m, 5 Good
16 Waning Crescent Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
Mon 12th Mar 2018 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Back Wall
18 Rocket Pocket Sport 8m, 2 Very Good
Packs surprising value into its short length.

 
14 Owen Glyndower Sport 24m, 4 Good
Felt much harder than 14, with a bouldery crux between the first two bolts. Maybe 16?

 
Mon 12th Mar 2018 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
16 Blind Justice Mixed trad 40m, 5 Very Good
Nice and long, with a slabby, bolt-protected crux passing the obvious roof. The only runout section is the grade 15 start shared with Blind Sox, after that there's plenty of pro.

 
Wed 28th Feb 2018 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
10 Grey Arete Trad 32m Good
15 Blind Sox Mixed trad 30m, 3 Good
Very thin on gear. Micro cams useful for both the slab and the arete.

 
16 Split Images Mixed trad 20m, 2 Good
Tricky slab moves around the second bolt.

 
Thu 26th Jan 2017 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
21 Boogie 'til You Puke Sport 25m, 6 Mega Classic
Finally ticked it. A long quickdraw for the 3rd bolt definitely made that clip a lot more comfortable.

 
18 Time Child Mixed trad 20m, 1 Very Good
Surprisingly good, after I gave it a decent brushing. Somewhat similar crux to Wishful Thinking, but more prolonged, harder, and further from the bolt. (But still very well protected.)

 
Thu 26th Jan 2017 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area My Only Wish Wall
21 The Oblivion of Conformity Sport 18m, 4 Very Good
Very nice. Bouldery start then thin moves on the face. Unfortunately the final bolt isn't in a great position, as the crux is below it, and is quite run out from the previous bolt. By the time you reach the final bolt, the difficult climbing is all over, and there's trad placements available anyway if you want protection for the easy finish. If that bolt were a metre lower, then it could protect the crux.

 
16 The Downward Spiral Sport 18m, 5 Good
Nice, but felt a little little awkward or contrived, as the easiest climbing tends rightward, taking you across the arete, but the bolts force you to keep moving left.

 
Thu 19th Jan 2017 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
21 Boogie 'til You Puke Sport 25m, 6 Mega Classic
Fell on the second bolt a couple of times while trying to figure out a good clipping position for the 3rd bolt, which I didn't find in the end. Think double ropes or a long draw would be good next time to reduce the consequences of a clipping fall.

 
16 Wishful Thinking Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
Warm up. Lovely and cruisy. Had never noticed before just how dodgy the bolt is. Looks like an 8mm (or thinner?) thread with a bolt plate fixed to it!

 
Sat 15th Oct 2016 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Privy Block - Chain buttress
22 Here Come the Bastards Sport 12m, 3 Good
Ridiculously reachy and bouldery start, going from wide left to wide right, to wide left. Still a little delicate getting up to the 2nd bolt, but eases from there.

 
Sat 15th Oct 2016 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
21 M0 Slug’s Honour (Slut's Honour) Sport 17m, 6 Good
No way this is only 21. 22 more like it. Gets incredibly blank around the last bolt(s)* and I had to pull on a draw to get past there.

Steep, crimpy and pumpy start leads to juggy horizontal crack, then crux above getting past last bolt, and finally a moderate slab above with a big flake available on the arête.

Gear: Cams around BD#0.4 size for the first crack, possible #1 in crack above that, and finally a finger-size cam or small-medium nuts for the flake on the slab.

* The bolting is very confusing. The final bolts are a fixed hanger near the arête, and a ringbolt level with it 1m to the right. The left bolt feels much easier to get to, unless you're doing 'Sluts Alliance'. There's also a hanger way out left and below the first ringbolt, which could be for a left variant start, or for 'Biker Mice From Mars'. Stick clipping the first ring and climbing from below it offers a nice start.

 
Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
16 Wishful Thinking Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
21 Boogie 'til You Puke Sport 25m, 6 Mega Classic
Thought Camel's Hump would be ok on a dry day in between two rainy days. I thought wrong. The crux finger crack was wet, slimy and horrible.

 
16 Wishful Thinking Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
Sat 20th Feb 2016 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Break like the wind
21 Low Life! Sport 8m, 2 Very Good
Thin, delicate, and bouldery, on small crimps and a super-sharp finger pocket. Clipping the second bolt is difficult and has definite groundfall potential. Recommend climbing on double ropes (or folding a single in half) to avoid that.

 
Sat 20th Feb 2016 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
21 Boogie 'til You Puke Sport 25m, 6 Mega Classic
Finally had an attempt at the onsight... and didn't quite make it. Fell on the 3rd bolt, then rested (probably unnecessarily) on the 5th.

Bouldery start becoming easier when clipping first two bolts, then crux moves getting to and past 3rd bolt. Excellent rest at 4th bolt, one difficult move getting up arête from 5th, then jugs to the top.

 
Sun 7th Feb 2016 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Back Wall
22 Rev Head Sport 8m, 2 Very Good
Fell on the first bolt a couple of times before figuring out the moves.

 
22 Rev Head Sport 8m, 2 Very Good
Surprisingly nice. Very bouldery crux moves past the first bolt, then thin, slabby and crimpy moves to finish. Consensus of 6 climbers who attempted it was that it was grade 22, or 23 if you're short.

 
16 Waning Crescent Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
16 Undertow Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
A very nice warm-up route. Maybe one of the best on the cliff?

 
Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Back Wall
12 Tie The Knot Sport 18m, 6 Very Good
Very nice. Gets harder towards the end, but the bolts are very closely spaced there.

 
12 Tobin Brothers Sport 18m, 5 Good
Probably the last trad ascent this route will see. Managed to get a nut and a cam next to each other in the flake about 8-10m up, then nothing until another cam about a meter from the top. Carried a wire brush and had to clean every hold on the way! Should be a nice easy route now that it's clean though.

Tough start but gets easier the higher you get.

 
Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Camels Hump
Northern Sector The Monolith Boulder
V1 Arete Boulder Average
The sit start provides all of the difficulty. After that it's jugs to the top.

 
V0 Mono-crack Boulder 3m Average
Apparently I'll climb anything that looks like it might offer a good hand jam.

 
Tue 12th Jan 2016 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Back Wall
16 Waning Crescent Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
14 Waning Motivation Mixed trad 15m, 3 Average
15 Gary's Groove (Unknown) Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
Ridiculously hard start... Maybe more like grade 19-20 if you go directly past the first bolt? Easier off to the side.

 
13 Skippy Sport 25m, 5 Good
16 Undertow Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
Nice and consistent, easing off only at the end.

 
Wed 30th Dec 2015 - Camels Hump
Trackside Boulders Globe Boulder
V0 VB BDSM Boulder 3m Average
Had a go at the sit start but just didn't have the strength left to pull up on the tiny crimp below the stand start jug. The stand start was quite easy though.

 
Wed 30th Dec 2015 - Camels Hump
Trackside Boulders Snot Blok
V1 Loogie Boulder 3m Good
Fun, but a little contrived, just because at any point you can go directly up at V0, as for 'Snot'.

 
V0 Snot Boulder 3m Average
Jugs. Some of them a bit sharp.

 
Wed 30th Dec 2015 - Camels Hump
Trackside Boulders Tower du Warm-up
V1 Northern Face Boulder 7m Very Good
Nice, but difficult to determine which holds to start on. Hard start gets much easier after reaching the first deep pocket. Wild mint growing underneath the climb made this the most delicious smelling boulder I've ever encountered.

 
Wed 30th Dec 2015 - Camels Hump
Trackside Boulders Thin Face
V1 Sucker Punch Boulder 3m Good
Crimpy and reachy.

 
Wed 16th Dec 2015 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Back Wall
4 Human Hex Trad 10m Crap
I'd say this is probably the worst way to get up the cliff, but then I haven't tried Locris yet...

 
15 News From Home Mixed trad 20m, 1 Don't Bother
Very run out. No reliable pro before the rusty carrot bolt, and then not much before the end either. Ended up clipping one of the nearby bolts on Summer Breeze. Interesting bollard moves at the start though. Single fixed hanger at belay can be backed up with trad gear or a long sling or cordelette reaching to the Skippy bolts.

 
Wed 16th Dec 2015 - Camels Hump
The Labyrinth Baguette Blocks
V0 Baguette Boulder 5m Very Good
Had to brush aside plant growth to find some initial feet! Nice, juggy traverse.

 
Wed 16th Dec 2015 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
V2 Arete Boulder 4m Average
Just getting off the ground is the hard part. Would probably be V0 if not for the sit start.

 
V3 Crouching Michael, Praying Mantle Boulder 2m Good
Not quite there yet... Got up to the third jug, but couldn't quite commit to the crimp and bring my other hand (or dangling feet) up.

 
V2 Leaky Bucket Boulder 4m Very Good
Didn't find any slopers during the finish... Seemed to be just a series of jugs once the initial jug was reached. Possibly felt more like V1.

 
V3 Four digits Boulder 4m Very Good
Hard! Took about a dozen attempts before I got it. Very sequency hand movements combined with poor feet. Gets slightly easier the higher you get.

 
Wed 28th Oct 2015 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
17 Poxbow Trad 30m Very Good
Nice, but not the mega-classic it's made out to be. Easy start, then balancy, delicate, and run-out moves up the corner, and a fun, well protected crux finish traversing along the juggy flake and then up on difficult to find holds.

 
Wed 28th Oct 2015 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
16 Wishful Thinking Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
17 Witch Trad 21m Classic
Wed 28th Oct 2015 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Melbourne View Buttress
15 Space Jugging Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
Sun 27th Sep 2015 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
17 Witch Trad 21m Classic
Brutally hard (though very well protected) crux for a 17! Found myself laybacking on a hand jam, trying to get a foot up on the ledge. A BD #3 size cam was very handy immediately after the crux.

 
16 Wishful Thinking Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
Sun 13th Sep 2015 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
16 Wishful Thinking Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
Sun 13th Sep 2015 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Melbourne View Buttress
15 Space Jugging Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
Be sure to take slings - there's little if any other pro available after the 2nd bolt!

 
20 Excuse Me While I Touch the Sky Mixed trad 20m, 1 Very Good
Gets seriously difficult when you reach the bolt. Obscenely reachy and bouldery moves to gain the poor, mossy ledge above the almost featureless wall containing the bolt, then up, strenuously, on a combination of jugs and crimps. Large horizontal crack below overhang will take a BD #4 cam easily, or a #3 if you find the narrowest sections. Got through the reachy crux cleanly, after backing off and returning to the ledge several times, but then pumped out while approaching the overhang.

 
5 Arachnophobia Trad 30m Good
Gets a bit exposed/scary when you reach the chimney and find yourself suddenly over a very large drop!

 
Sun 22nd Mar 2015 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Back Wall
14 Brian Boru Sport 24m, 1 Good
Good climbing, but ridiculously runout. There were no opportunities for trad pro before the first bolt, which is very high, and then still no pro until after the 3rd or 4th bolt of Skippy, which I clipped with a long runner, and without which I would have entered groundfall territory before being able to place any trad pro. In the last 5m or so, there is good pro from large nuts. (Though really, large nuts are needed for the entire climb!)

 
15 Gary's Groove (Unknown) Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
Difficult moves around the first and last bolt - crimpy and balancy. Probably more like 16 than 15.

 
Sun 22nd Mar 2015 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
17 Wee Ripper Sport 12m, 2 Very Good
Every time you think you're reaching for a jug, you get a disappointing, shallow crimp instead.

 
17 Witch Trad 21m Classic
Went fine until the crux (little roof), then found myself no footholds, and a crack that narrowed down so much I couldn't even get fingers in. Maybe need to jam below the thin section of the crack and reach right up over it, possibly in combination with a crimp out right.

 
16 Wishful Thinking Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
Mon 9th Mar 2015 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
16 Wishful Thinking Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
Mon 9th Mar 2015 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Back Wall
13 Skippy Sport 25m, 5 Good
Jugs all the way. Consistent difficulty, so a good choice for someone leading around this grade.

 
16 Undertow Sport 15m, 5 Good
Nice, bouldery start, but then gets much easier from there. Probably a bit soft for a 16.

 
Mon 9th Mar 2015 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Melbourne View Buttress
15 Space Jugging Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
Very nice. A series of jugs all the way up, mostly just a slight stretch apart. Might be more difficult for shorter climbers. Amazing views!

 
Sun 15th Feb 2015 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
15 Blind Sox Mixed trad 30m, 3 Good
Runout start, with no protection other than a carrot bolt. Although you can get a small-medium cam in way out to the left after the carrot, and then an obvious micro-cam placement in the slab above. The corner crack looks wide from the ground, but doesn't actually need big gear - nothing larger than a #1 Camalot.

 
Sun 15th Feb 2015 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Back Wall
14 One For The Masses Sport 20m, 5 Good
Didn't think any extra protection was needed in the slightly runout (but easier than the rest of the climb) top section, though those only just leading at the grade might find it takes them out of their comfort zone.

 
15 Gary's Groove (Unknown) Sport 15m, 5 Good
A touch harder than Summer Breeze, with a similarly delicate, balancy start. If top-roping or lowering, rope redirect point should be extended below the lip, 0.5-1m below the bolts.

 
15 Summer Breeze Sport 15m, 4 Good
Nice. Balancy start then gets a little easier. If top-roping or lowering, rope redirect point should be extended below the lip, 0.5-1m below the bolts.

 
Sun 15th Feb 2015 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
10 Grey Arete Trad 32m Good
Fri 2nd Jan 2015 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
15 Black Magic Trad 20m Average
Really not sure where I was supposed to be going here. Climbed left of the trench, then traversed to the right half way up (possibly onto Lola V?) and went straight up to the jugs over the lip of the crack where it curves.

 
17 Wee Ripper Sport 12m, 2 Good
16 Wishful Thinking Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
Bouldery start leads to a pumpy section with plenty of medium cam placements, then a rest ledge and bolt before the crux. It's wishful to think that being tall will make the "reachy" crux any easier.

 
Fri 2nd Jan 2015 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega gully wall - Wall opposite witch
10 Drain Pipes Trad 16m Good
Thought it was only slightly easier than Sze, but with much better protection opportunities.

 
12 Sze Trad 16m Good
Nice moves, but no protection until near the top. Definitely not recommended for uncertain leaders!

 
Fri 2nd Jan 2015 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
13 7 Hawker Trad 15m Good
Nice little route. Graded 13* in the Rockclimbs Around Melbourne guidebook, which seems more accurate than 7. Near the top, moved right to the last bolt on Wee Ripper and finished that route instead of the easy arete.

 
10 Romulus Trad 12m Average

Showing all 93 ascents.

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