Ascents in Eastern Outcrops by Dave Scarlett

Very nice. A series of jugs all the way up, mostly just a slight stretch apart. Might be more difficult for shorter climbers. Amazing views!

Be sure to take slings - there's little if any other pro available after the 2nd bolt!

Gets seriously difficult when you reach the bolt. Obscenely reachy and bouldery moves to gain the poor, mossy ledge above the almost featureless wall containing the bolt, then up, strenuously, on a combination of jugs and crimps. Large horizontal crack below overhang will take a BD #4 cam easily, or a #3 if you find the narrowest sections. Got through the reachy crux cleanly, after backing off and returning to the ledge several times, but then pumped out while approaching the overhang.

Very run out. No reliable pro before the rusty carrot bolt, and then not much before the end either. Ended up clipping one of the nearby bolts on Summer Breeze. Interesting bollard moves at the start though. Single fixed hanger at belay can be backed up with trad gear or a long sling or cordelette reaching to the Skippy bolts.

Gets a bit exposed/scary when you reach the chimney and find yourself suddenly over a very large drop!

I'd say this is probably the worst way to get up the cliff, but then I haven't tried Locris yet...

Very nice. Gets harder towards the end, but the bolts are very closely spaced there.

A touch harder than Summer Breeze, with a similarly delicate, balancy start. If top-roping or lowering, rope redirect point should be extended below the lip, 0.5-1m below the bolts.

Didn't think any extra protection was needed in the slightly runout (but easier than the rest of the climb) top section, though those only just leading at the grade might find it takes them out of their comfort zone.

Jugs all the way. Consistent difficulty, so a good choice for someone leading around this grade.

Nice, bouldery start, but then gets much easier from there. Probably a bit soft for a 16.

Difficult moves around the first and last bolt - crimpy and balancy. Probably more like 16 than 15.

Ridiculously hard start... Maybe more like grade 19-20 if you go directly past the first bolt? Easier off to the side.

Nice and consistent, easing off only at the end.

Probably the last trad ascent this route will see. Managed to get a nut and a cam next to each other in the flake about 8-10m up, then nothing until another cam about a meter from the top. Carried a wire brush and had to clean every hold on the way! Should be a nice easy route now that it's clean though.

Tough start but gets easier the higher you get.

A very nice warm-up route. Maybe one of the best on the cliff?

Nice. Balancy start then gets a little easier. If top-roping or lowering, rope redirect point should be extended below the lip, 0.5-1m below the bolts.

Felt much harder than 14, with a bouldery crux between the first two bolts. Maybe 16?

Fell on the first bolt a couple of times before figuring out the moves.

Surprisingly nice. Very bouldery crux moves past the first bolt, then thin, slabby and crimpy moves to finish. Consensus of 6 climbers who attempted it was that it was grade 22, or 23 if you're short.

Packs surprising value into its short length.

Good climbing, but ridiculously runout. There were no opportunities for trad pro before the first bolt, which is very high, and then still no pro until after the 3rd or 4th bolt of Skippy, which I clipped with a long runner, and without which I would have entered groundfall territory before being able to place any trad pro. In the last 5m or so, there is good pro from large nuts. (Though really, large nuts are needed for the entire climb!)

Tree to the left of the boulder seems to have gotten a lot bigger and is seriously encroaching on this route. Still looks possible at maybe V1-V2 with a sit-start.

Jugs. Definitely a lot softer than the claimed grade.