Ascents in Central Boulders

My nemesis. Tried many times, but to no avail. I got close once and dropped off from the rail; if I'd have known how hard it was to get back up there I wouldn't have left the rail in the first place. One of these days! p.s. tape right index and middle finger tips.

all sorted except ridiculous teflon heel hook

Another crack. Got the chip again (I wonder how long that chip will last) and then didn't know what to do with it....Must put some effort into taping fingers, BD isn't getting any less sharp!

Meh, so so so sharp

Worked it for a while, feeling fairly comfy on the first few moves, the pinch move beta from Alan is good, I can accurately heel hook but just can't put much weight on so falling into the crux. Need to be almost static. More legs!

Seems like an awesome route, barely got the first hold but otherwise looks fun.

Man, this is not getting any closer. Plus I managed to break off a tiny part of the already tiny starting crimpers, Boooo!

Tough. The sun and mosquitoes didn't help (stupid combination anyway). But the doof doof had us all psyched and trying hard. We'll be back!

I pulled on so I guess that counts as an attempt. Gonna need some cooler weather before trying this again. Also some funky sounds coming from the left crimp...that's a worry

Another day another Darma. Felt okay on the crimps with tape for about two attempts then tape just became a hindrance. No tape felt good for about five more attempts which is all it took to put a hole in my middle finger. Right foot kept popping. I need Scotty to sort me out some edges. I'll be back.

It's been a while. Another four throws. Was stoked to land the chip twice and be reminded of the BD texture.

Ermagerd. Thin, bunched and sharp with crap feet. God knows how Cazza sent this thing. Not sure I could ever get through the traverse.

We tried super-gluing our finger tips which seemed to work pretty well consider how many attempts we had and didn't rage quit after the 3rd attempt. Its been yonks since I've been on this, I re-figured out how to hold the left crimp, the right is still fairly painful.

Next....

Stuck the hardest move and figured out most of the rest. Super encouraging for the first sesh, noice.

Sesh 2. Linked the hardest move to the top out. Just gotta dial in the starting moves and link both sections together woo.

allo old friend

Meet n Greet, it’s hard.

Very very close to sending. Once those sloppers sit in the sun for a while though it gets much harder. Have to come back early morning or something.

Punting at the last hard move again, claaaassssiiiic

Felt smooth today!

Came close to doing an 8 in a day. Michael’s beta 👌

Hello again. Nice to get reacquainted after all these years. Worthy winter project, will be back

Still nails. Can do it in two overlapping parts now which is something I suppose.

Fucking

Feels doable but didn't wanna sacrifice the skin, only get a few goes before it's cooked

fuak me punted it so hard

yaaay

fuak stuck the little chip and felt real solid then popped da foot

Worked all the moves for a bit and then went on a sending train with Nathan and Alan. A bit of everything, slopers, crimps, jugs, crystals, heels and palms, not to mention a classic crotch thrutch compression (oldie but a goodie). Oh and watch your dab. Do chalk bags count?

Good fun, squeeze those heels, and crimp like crazy!

Worked it with Ben and got it again. Very happy!

Awesome sequence on the rail, good stuff up top, linking the two isn't pretty but damn fun - Doin the worm!

Hard Start, nice problem.

Fun headlamp session, high point was on the disk crimp

Oh so close. Was hanging around up the top on the disc, feet ready to go, then threw and missed the finish hold. Pretty happy to get back on this old classic!

Was totally wrecked after a big day, we almost didn't stop but Ben was keen. After he had a couple goes I mentally geared up and had a solid cracker of an attempt, essentially did the crux, got my foot placement perfect, and was rocking over into the top out and just choked. Has another 4-5 goes but none quite as good and was then just smashed. Froth!

Thought we'd have a few throws at this under headlamp to finish. Several very close attempts later it was Vulcanology that finished us.

Pretty wet and spoogy from an earlier shower. Had a couple of half hearted attempts before spooging off and calling it a day.

Solid opportunity for some inverse grovel from the get go and a good chance to throw in the trusty ol' trout tickler....

Had a bunch of attempts trying different new techniques. Tried a backstepped foot jam while laybacking which is hard but feels like I can cycle each bit up at least. Lets be honest thing isn't anywhere near a V4

But then I found some energy for working the sit start to this crack. I kinda thought I'd done this back in the day, it's a super burly layback and if you can get through the first 50cm then it eases up. First go I did maybe 4 moves and was totally thinking I'd get it again the second time, and then it just shut us both down. Had a bunch of goes. Sit start might be more like V4-V6 as a layback, maybe less using some inverted offwidth foot jams and chicken wings if you can figure it out