Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
21 | ★★ El Scorcho - with Daniel Razzino | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sat 5th Jun 2021 | |||||
Fun day out! Great lead in the 21 by Daniel, and the 19 has some spicy moved off the belay.
|
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Ryan Siacci, Alex Mougenot
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Mar 2019 | ||||
A very nice route, pretty straightforward and well bolted (it’s basically sport). Left a maillon on the bare FH at the pitch 6 anchor to rap, I didnt have a spanner so it’s not torqued up. Ran out the last pitch a little, only had 4 draws left to link the pitches with, it was easy terrain with an engaging move in the middle.
Thanks to Ryan Siacci for gifting the leads to Alex and I, and to Alex Mougenot for letting me bag the crux! (Even if it’s not quite 21). A fun arvo out with good folk! |
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19 |
★★ Sunburnt Buttress
- with
Rachel Friedman
1
18
28m
2
16
34m
3
19
25m
4
16
36m
5
14
45m
6
10
20m
| 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Jun 2019 | ||||
Fantastic day out, has a few tricky sections and it's certainly not over-bolted. The crux traverse is pretty spicy! Placed a couple of small bits of gear.
|
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18 |
★★ Sunburnt Buttress
1
18
28m
2
16
34m
| 62m | Mt Tibrogargan | Sat 24th Aug 2019 | |||||
19 |
★★ Sunburnt Buttress
1
18
28m
2
16
34m
3
19
25m
4
16
36m
5
14
45m
6
10
20m
| 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th May 2020 | ||||
bit of a mish trying to find the start. its the FH to the left of the pillar (pillar has a tree on it adorned with a sling that people use to rap off of). We couldn't find the elusive square that signposts the start of sunburnt.
First 5 pitches were solid and i had a great time. The 10-20m solo at the end is ridiculous, I missed the line going to the anchors and ended up topping out just to the right, into a minefield of cobwebs with fist sized spiders. Here I was, perched precariously on the lip of the top out, 10+ meters of rope swinging merrily below me, heart hammering in my chest, and only one way forward, through the barrier of spiders. I ended up army crawling through the cobwebs until the ground leveled out, and could support some decent sized shrubs for a top anchor. Probs one of the scariest things i have ever done. |
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18 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Leighton
2
25
lead by
Leighton
| 50m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 31st May 2020 | ||||
Did first two pitches just to scope it out for next time.
|
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19 |
★★ Sunburnt Buttress
1
18
28m
2
16
34m
3
19
25m
4
16
36m
5
14
45m
6
10
20m
| 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Jun 2020 | ||||
Not feeling it. For peace of mind C4 #2 on P1 and P2.
|
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Dick
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Tue 11th Aug 2020 | ||||
Pretty cruizy multi, generously bolted, great day out. The 19 pitches were pretty easy for the grade, just need to make sure not to pull on anything small as my fetish for crimps exploded 2 or 3 crimps.
About 3 hours worth of climbing and a 1.5hr decent (we hiked off). The solo at the end is not too bad |
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
James Winter
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | Wed 26th Aug 2020 | |||||
19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Adam Kerz
1
18
25m
2
15
25m
3
11
20m
4
18
25m
5
19
25m
6
13
25m
7
19
15m
8
16
30m
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | Fri 15th Jan 2021 | |||||
19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
jack kessels
1
18
25m
2
15
25m
3
11
20m
4
18
25m
5
19
25m
6
13
25m
7
19
15m
8
16
30m
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Jan 2021 | ||||
Great multipitch! Exciting crux pitches and some scary run out slab. Hand slipped off the crux moves of pitch seven but somehow managed to stay on.
|
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Pogdog
1
18
25m
2
15
25m
3
11
20m
4
18
25m
5
19
25m
6
13
25m
7
19
15m
8
16
30m
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | ||||
Fucking Epic!! Super fun. couldn’t have done it without my sensei
|
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
1
18
25m
3
11
20m
4
18
25m
5
19
25m
6
13
25m
7
19
15m
8
16
30m
9
| 170m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Apr 2021 | ||||
19 |
★★ Sunburnt Buttress
- with
Ruth
1
18
28m
2
16
34m
3
19
25m
4
16
36m
5
14
45m
6
10
20m
| 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Mon 26th Jul 2021 | ||||
I rate this outing! The weight training with a rack we barely used, the beautiful exposed run outs, the spicy traverse and the sprinkling of loose rock. Take it as you will, we still really enjoyed ourselves. Went off without a hitch! Rapped down caves route to end the day.
|
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Aaron
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Aug 2021 | ||||
A great day on the rock. To exit, we rapped into cave 5, then rapped to cave 2, then down Zeitgeist.
|
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Ethan Naylor
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Aug 2021 | ||||
Another great day for climbing. Lots of climbers out and about today. Another party was following us up this great route. Could hear a large group enjoying themselves at Candy Mountain. We exited by rapping into cave 5, down the caves route to cave 2, then rapped down Zeitgeist which I thought would be free, but there was another party heading up Zeitgeist. Would have continued down caves route if I'd known. No biggie - used the other set of anchors off to the left which kept us (mostly) out of their way. Fun times!
|
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Ruth
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Aug 2021 | ||||
19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Steven vdb
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Sat 18th Jun 2022 | ||||
Good day learning to multi with Steve. Thanks to Steves' wonderful display of patience made it up without much fuss. The descent however was a bit more exciting consisting of a few sketchy rappels and dislodged rocks. All in all it was a fun day on Tibro.
|
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Jarred Vardy
8
16
30m
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Jun 2022 | ||||
Super great day. First multi so super stoked. Had a rest on first pitch as a result of the flash pump. Much thanks to Jarred for showing me the ropes of multi pitching. All in all, a beautiful day.
|
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Belle
4
18
25m
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Jul 2022 | ||||
Took my shoes off for the last two pitches and had mild regrets. Going up to the top of cave 5 to rap down is definitely worth the extra 10 minutes of faff
|
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Lauren Hunter
1
18
25m
3
11
20m
5
19
25m
8
16
30m
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | Wed 10th Aug 2022 | |||||
19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Jarred Vardy
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Wed 10th Aug 2022 | ||||
First sport lead, very fun.
|
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
1
18
25m
2
15
25m
3
11
20m
4
18
25m
5
19
25m
6
13
25m
7
19
15m
8
16
30m
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Thu 19th May 2022 | ||||
19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Bryn Norris
3
11
20
lead by
Laura Price
accidental linkup lol. had an ‘ah maybe I’ll see the bolt after the next move’ moment on a LOT of moves till I got to the first bolt (just below the anchors yay runout!). have now learnt the value of slinging trees haha. | 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sat 10th Jun 2023 | |||||
absolutely fantastic day
|
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Grace Daff
| 180m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Jul 2023 | ||||
Such a fun day out with Grace. My crux was the bolt spacing on the 16 slab on the 8th pitch, a bit heady making delicate moves knowing the fall would be gross.
I should have skipped some bolts on the 18 that I led as the rope drag was pretty bad and there was an excess of bolts for once on Tibro ha! The 7th pitch was clearly the crux of the whole climb. Looking forward to climbing it again one day and leading the other pitches! |
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16 |
★★ Blabbermouth
- with
mason minto
| 200m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sat 26th Jan 2019 | |||||
Vertical Climb fairly straight up. Finishes on the top of the caves route. A good day in it.
|
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16 |
★★ Blabbermouth
1
12
28m
2
16
34m
3
16
33m
4
13
20m
5
14
28m
6
13
32m
7
10
20m
| 200m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Aug 2020 | ||||
Listed as trad but more accurately it is a mixed route. Lots of FH. All belays are bolted but the ledges are small or they are semi hanging belays. Grades are accurate. P3 was my favorite. Did the VS start. Pitch 7 is only a grade 10 but is a little scary without anywhere to place gear. Deserves the two stars. You can abseil back down the route or climb up to the top of the caves routes and abseil down that way. Easy to bail from the top of any pitch.
|
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16 |
★★ Blabbermouth
- with
Niklas Bergstrom
4
13
20m
7
10
20m
| 200m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Thu 24th Sep 2020 | ||||
Fun climb, but full sun exposure takes its toll.
|
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16 |
★★ Blabbermouth
1
12
28m
2
16
34m
3
16
33m
4
13
20m
5
14
28m
6
13
32m
7
10
20m
| 200m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 6th Jun 2021 | |||||
A fun day out. Possible spoilers below:
Left carpark at 8, back at 4. Not rushing, newish trad leader. Tips:
|
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16 |
★★ Blabbermouth
- with
Issy Jukes
1
12
28m
| 200m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Wed 15th Sep 2021 | ||||
Great intro mixed trad route. Found the second pitch more mentally taxing than the other pitches I lead. Some great little nests of gear were placed and the climbing wasn’t anything too difficult. Just the occasional questionable sections of rock.
Some great leads from Issy and some even greater gear placements. Props to Jelena for powering up this route whilst not feeling 100%. Awesome company as always from these two legends! |
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16 |
★★ Blabbermouth
- with
Aaron
| 120m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | ||||
Had to bail after the 4th pitch due to time constraints. Keen to head back and finish this one day. The NE Buttress area can be a bit of a head spin when trying to figure out which routes go where. Lots of criss-crossing of routes, branched off variants, etc. Had surprisingly cool weather for November.
|
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21 |
★★ El Scorcho
1
21
107m
2
3
| 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 19th Aug 2018 | |||||
Ran out of light and w/out headtorches atop the 1st pitch. Sweet pitch! Reminded me of Bluies face climbing in places. Poor rope drag management down low, and a slight quickdraw deficiency made for an interesting ascent, which is well summarised in Peatey's log. A great day out!
|
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16 | ★★ Blabbermouth - with Kyla | 56m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | Tue 27th Dec 2022 | |||||
bailed after the second pitch. only started mid afternoon once the wall was in shade.
water runoff and big runouts made progress way slower than expected. wanted to avoid having an epic so just called it |
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Daniel Burrows
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | ||||
Good day for it. Started late at 1 and topped out at 4:30. Eventful descent down caves route & Zeitgeist with one head torch in the dark, and I got a migraine, so was unable to see out of one eye. Props to Danny being my eyes and for checking my rap rigs for me.
Gets one star for the poor rock and holds that broke on me. |
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
wen, Martin Weir, jules
1
18
25
2
15
25
3
11
20
4
18
25
5
19
25
6
13
25
7
19
15
8
16
30
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th May 2023 | ||||
Pleasant suprise bumping into Marty & Jules at the start of the climb, which proved useful as Marty could retrieve Wen's single glasses lense that popped out midway through the climb, resulting in Wen doing his best pirate impression for the remainder of the day
Leading both of the 19 pitches was daunting but fun, with pitch 7 being considerably harder than the rest of the pitches A beautiful blood moon provided us some light as we got a little lost descending in darkness until ~8pm |
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19 |
★★ Ross Miller Route
- with
Laura Price
1
18
25
2
15
25
3
11
20
4
18
25
5
19
25
6
13
25
7
19
15
8
16
30
| 190m, 14 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Jun 2023 | ||||
Proper good quality climbing! Linking pitch 4 and 5 was definitely the way to go - not a lot of rope drag with a few runners. The two best pitches on the route were a treat, back to back.
We finished by scrambling directly up from pitch 8 anchors and belaying off some trees. Wouldn't recommend doing this (I didn't read the guide properly). Potentially could have skipped pitch 8 by scrambling left into cave 5? I would have preferred this to other options |
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16 |
★★ Blabbermouth
- with
Aaron
| 200m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Tue 9th May 2023 | ||||
Climb 12 of 50. Strung pitches 5 & 6 together. Had never climbed past pitch 3 prior to today, so was good to finish the entire route.
|
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16 |
★★ Blabbermouth
- with
Harold Lopez
1
12
28
2
16
34
3
16
33
4
13
20
5
14
28
6
13
32
7
10
20
| 200m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 16th Jul 2023 | |||||
23 | The Kloske Conection | 50m, 7 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 14th Jul 2013 | |||||
21 | ★★ El Scorcho | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Dec 2006 | ||||
Fantastic climb on good rock - missed the 2nd last belay station??
|
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21 | ★★ El Scorcho | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Aug 2009 | ||||
great sustained climbing, with Lindsay
|
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21 | ★★ El Scorcho | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Feb 2008 | ||||
Very nice climbing. with Mark.
|
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21 | ★★ El Scorcho | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Feb 2008 | ||||
2nd 21 section good lead annette
|
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21 | ★★ El Scorcho | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Sat 25th Jul 2009 | ||||
First 21 onsight! Bolting is wondery. Double ropes and extenders recommended. Very long pitch.
|
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21 | ★★ El Scorcho | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 8th Apr 2007 | |||||
21 | ★★ El Scorcho | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Apr 2019 | ||||
Led P1 and followed P2 of SB to access. The crux pitch is definitely well worth doing, as it's mega! Must be the longest single pitch at Tibro. Quality is somewhat marred by the wandery nature of the pitch and some odd bolting choices. For example, the anchor could have been set two bolts down from the awkward stance, at a nice, natural ledge.
|
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21 | ★★ El Scorcho | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | ||||
Followed P1 and led P2 of SB to access. Followed long crux pitch then led the 2nd pitch which was very nice. A nice climb on the NE sector.
|
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21 | ★★ El Scorcho | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sat 24th Aug 2019 | |||||
Rad day out!!
|
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21 | ★★ El Scorcho | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Aug 2020 | ||||
21 | ★★ El Scorcho | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Oct 2020 | ||||
Bring just only 1 bigger hex for the very first few meters of “Sunburn B”. Then there is no need of trad gear. (all bolted)
|
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21 | ★★ El Scorcho - with Lucas D | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Jun 2021 | ||||
Really long 1st pitch
We used double ropes and I wish I extended more of the draws at the start still had a fair bit of drag by the anchors
Between the 2nd last and last draw the rocks crumbly snapped off a crimp
Used all 14 draws Climbed first two pitches of sunburnt Anchors are looked pretty rusted with the old gal chains on stainless hangers and all the mallions are rusted |
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21 | ★★ El Scorcho - with Rachael Brock | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Aug 2021 | ||||
Originally planned to do Blabbermouth, but changed plans midway through p2. Only brought 10 draws, but it solved the rope drag issue pitches 2 and 3 link nicely
Techy climbing on what I thought was pretty solid rock. Rachael thinks it’s only a 19 (or maybe she’s just getting strong) but definitely soft for the grade… if you can climb for 50m+ Definitely worth a lap. The chains on some anchors are rusting, but it’s all surface rust at the moment, they should have a couple years left in them. |
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21 | ★★ El Scorcho - with Robert Hartley, Scott D | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 22nd Jan 2023 | |||||
We were very brave to do this in mid summer as a party of 3 but it worked out fine and was a lot of fun. Started at 7am via first 2 pitches of Blabbermouth and got back to ground around 1pm. The crux pitch is quite committing but there are enough good holds to work with, great lead by Scott! Start of p2 is fairly stiff for the first 2 bolts. Linked p2 and p3, a 60m rope is just enough, with 2m of rope to spare. A single rack for the first 2 pitches of Blabbermouth is sufficient, I placed only one cam on p3
|
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19 ~19 |
★★ El Scorcho
- with
Angie
1
19
53
Great lead by Scott! This pitch felt very soft for a 21, closer to 18/19 in my opinion.
2
19
24
lead by
Angie
A hard few moves straight off the belay, especially if you’re short. These moves felt harder than anything on the 21 pitch. | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Jan 2023 | ||||
A really great climb! I’ll definitely be back to take the lead of each pitch. This is basically sport with a mixed approach via Blabbermouth.
|
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21 | ★★ El Scorcho | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | 2012 | ||||
21 | ★★ El Scorcho - with Joe Lin | 110m, 15 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 24th Dec 2023 | |||||
20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Jun 2010 | ||||
With Dave. Led the loose pitch 3 and the crux pitch. Great climbing and position.
|
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20 | ★★ The Chris Mann Route | 99m, 23 | Mt Tibrogargan | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★ The Chris Mann Route | 99m, 23 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Aug 2006 | ||||
With Ross and Dave. Non est ei similis. Pax tecum. Respice post te, mortalem te esse memento
|
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20 | ★★ The Chris Mann Route | 99m, 23 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jul 2009 | ||||
very cool, with Ross
|
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Sat 30th Sep 2006 | ||||
With Tash. Led pithces 1,3,5 & 7. Maybe not of wide appeal as crux pitch is quite hard but others are pretty easy.
|
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob - with Susy G | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Aug 2012 | ||||
Good Tibro adventure climb. The pitch 6 crack is the pick.
Awesome weather and a great days climbing with Susy G. I led the even pitches.
|
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob - with Bernie | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Tue 7th Aug 2012 | ||||
Bloody great way to spend a sunny Winters Tuesday. B boy, the supersonic robot, lead the interesting crux pitch, (Crazy crack) in style. I lead the the odd number pitches, clearly with less style, as I fell off whilst seconding the grade 16 pitch!! In other highlights, I attached the trail rope to my watch band! However, we lived, there were no stuck ropes or other incidents, and we were off by 2.30. Excellent apres-climb banana smoothie at the strawberry farm to cap off a tip top day
|
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 31st Jul 2012 | ||||
Absolute classic adventure route. The crazy crack pitch was my hardest trad lead and an amazing climb. Stepping out onto the face after being in the crack had me a serious case of elvis legs.
|
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Sep 2012 | ||||
Swinging leads on a warm day with Graham. I led pitches 2,4,6 and 8. The crazy crack was awesome!
|
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 21st Jul 2013 | |||||
20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | Average | Sat 19th Jul 2014 | ||||
First five pitches til we ran out of day - underwhelmed with the quality of the rock
|
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Mar 2017 | ||||
Pretty good climb. Only need trad gear for the cruxs pitch. even though the bolts are sparse on the other pitches the climbing is easy with no real cruxes. The cruxes pitch is chossy with suspicious holds. Definitely Want to be definitely soilded at the grade. Crazy bridging and thin hand holds.
|
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob - with zac | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Sun 5th Mar 2017 | ||||
20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob - with David Collard | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Wed 15th Aug 2018 | ||||
Really good climb, but it was a bit hot, I would probably do it earlier in the year next time.
For the first pitch, the route description seemed to make sense after we had climbed the pitch. The second bolt is after the bully, not before. Climb up to the brambles and go slightly right to get to the gully. For the 4th pitch, if you get confused as to where to go near the top of the pitch, under a more vertical bit of rock, just keep climbing diagonally up and left, past the last FH until you can see the DBB. |
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20 |
★★ Sideshow Bob
1
20
247m
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
| 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 19th Aug 2018 | |||||
Took the opportunity to wander up here with Sir Alex Moogie himself. Pitches 1-5 are generic Tibro slab with the occasional move to make you think. Bolts are adequate and in good condition. The crux crack is deceptively steep, airy and a calf burner. Alex linked P7 to the final anchor of SB/BB.
Rapped down what we later discovered was El Scorcho on a doubled 70m. Non AMGA certified shenanigans ensued. |
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob - with Dani Hess | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Oct 2018 | ||||
Led all pitches because Dani has a injured back. Linked pitches 3&4 and 7&8 to the top. Apart from the crux pitch the climbing is easy but the protection is spaced enough to keep it interesting and engaging. Crux pitch is one of my favorite pitches on any tibro multi so far. Thankfully the sun came out just in time to dry the top of the crux pitch as I was climbing it.
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob - with Ryan Siacci, Josh Worley | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sat 23rd Mar 2019 | |||||
Led and onsighted all pitches, other than P3 & P4, when Josh took the sharp end. The crux is one of the best (mostly) trad lines I've climbed on Tibro. Very stylish bridging!
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob - with Genevieve Kieseker | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sat 22nd Jun 2019 | |||||
I feel like this climb purely exists because someone wanted to climb that crazy crack corner thing. Regardless, I'm glad they did because definitely worth the outing. Felt as though this climb is still pretty chossy though as both Gen and I ripped off a few holes each. I led evens and gen led odds.
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob - with Rachel Friedman | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Aug 2019 | ||||
Really enjoyed this. The crack was fun with pretty good pro, used friends up to #3. It's not overbolted, but they're there when you need them. Take care for loose rock. Not sure about the pitch lengths, pitch 7 seemed more like 45m, unless we ended up at the wrong anchor. Led evens, Rachel led odds.
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob - with John Pownall | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 29th Sep 2019 | |||||
Great day out with the Pownall himself.
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | ||||
Crux pitch is stellar. Still a little exfoliation, but just the right amount to add to the enjoyment. The rest of the slab climbing is basically access to this pitch.
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob - with Francois Pieterse | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||||
P6 was the real standout, very nice crack with plenty of gear placement. A single rack is probably sufficient, having 2 cams each in the smaller sizes would make life very comfortable. The remaining pitches are alright, sparsely bolted but the bolts are there when you need them. We couldn't find how to get to SB/Blabbermouth so had to rap off Caves route instead. This took much longer than rapping off those routes and we had to walk back to Candy Mountain to grab stuff we left at the base.
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20 Easy |
★★ Sideshow Bob
- with
Alex
2
13
30m
lead by
Robert Hartley
Typical nondescript Tibro access pitch. Bolts where you need them, and a nice wire near the top.
3
15
30m
lead by
Alex
A 30m percussion instrument. Lots of dummy, suspicious rock at either end of this pitch.
4
16
45m
lead by
Robert Hartley
The route this pitch follows wasn't immediately obvious to me. Generally up and left from the belay, for future reference. A really nice pitch of climbing. Bolts are well spaced, but wire placements are easily found.
6
20
30m
lead by
Robert Hartley
Quite a crazy looking pitch of climbing! Certainly longer than photograph's I'd seen made it appear. Great mix of jamming, stemming, and weird arm bars while you shake out your claves. The crack didn't feel like a 20 to me, perhaps closer to 18/19. I felt the hardest one or two moves were exiting the crack at the top as you step out onto the face. Rock quality within the crack was generally decent. Several portable holds on the faces either side, however. Medium - large wires and hexes were my primary protection. Plus small - medium cams.
7
16
32m
lead by
Robert Hartley
A nice pitch of climbing with solid rock. Hangers are decently spaced but where you need them. Didn't see any placements on this pitch, but didn't feel the need for any gear. Went past the actual anchor for this pitch and belayed from the top of the second last pitch of Ross Miller Route (up and left). This made exiting via Blabbermouth easier. | 220m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st May 2023 | ||||
A great day out with Alex! Hopefully we'll get a few more in before he racks off to Canada.
Overall a fun, well protected route with a great crux pitch and smatterings of questionable rock throughout. Started up pitch 1 around 9am, topped out around 1pm. Didn't bother with the last pitch. Descent via Blabbermouth. Gear Wires & hexes (DMM 1-3) Cams: 00-4 (DMM). Doubles 0-3 if you want, and I reckon you could fit a 5 in there too. |
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20 | ★★ The Chris Mann Route - with Lachlan | 99m, 23 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sat 6th May 2023 | |||||
Nice route, all around. The final pitch has one spicy bit, but with that said it's also a pretty damned soft 20. It's a major stretch to call this a trad route, being that I placed 4 pieces of gear on the entire route.
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20 |
★★ The Chris Mann Route
- with
Chris Ahlgren
1
28m
lead by
Chris Ahlgren
2
26m
lead by
Lachlan
Forget we were supposed to be climbing El Scorcho and continued straight up instead of heading left at the start of pitch two. No trad gear placed.
3
45m
lead by
Chris Ahlgren
| 99m, 23 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sat 6th May 2023 | |||||
20 |
★★ Sideshow Bob
1
10
28m
2
13
30m
3
15
30m
4
16
45m
5
13
20m
6
20
30m
7
16
32m
8
10
32m
| 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||
20 ~18 | ★★ The Chris Mann Route - with Kate | 99m, 23 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Tue 11th Jul 2023 | ||||
Climb 27 of 50. A really great climb! Felt more like an 18 than a 20. Not sure which was the crux pitch, but Kate and I both felt that pitch 2 was the crux. The only disappointing aspect of this route is that we literally only placed 1 cam (pitch 1 start), and 1 nut (pitch 3). I missed the trad placement on pitch 2, but Kate said there was a nut placement there. It seems silly to cart an entire rack up for 2 or 3 placements. In my personal opinion, if this route had two or 3 more bolts, it would be a really popular fully bolted sport route. Alas, I think people are put off by the "Mixed Trad" status, and the assigned grade of 20, and therefore this route doesn't see the traffic it deserves. I feel it's a grade 18, or 19 at most. Anyway, perhaps the first ascentionists would be amenable to a retro-bolt ;-) Ha ha. Definitely worth doing this climb again.
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20 ~19 | ★★ The Chris Mann Route | 99m, 23 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Mar 2024 | ||||
It's pretty much a sports climb. Fully bolted all the way up, except the first few metres of P1. Hanger with carabiner is available at the 30m mark of P3 if a 70m rope is what you have.
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20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob - with Myles | 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | Tue 14th May 2024 | |||||
20 |
★★ Sideshow Bob
- with
Joshua Malherbe, josh
3
15
30
5
13
20
6
20
30
7
16
32
8
10
32
| 250m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th May 2024 | ||||
Simuled the first 2 pitches. Excellent Crux pitch, stemmy with good gear. Traversed at 7th pitch into Ross Miller to cave 5, quite the traverse.
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19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | Average | Sat 28th Aug 2010 | ||||
Pitch 1 only.
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19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Sun 10th Sep 2006 | ||||
With Cam. Our efficiency, plus Cam's 5 minute ascent of the first pitch, meant we were able to complete the route and be back at ground level before the storm hit (although saturated on the walk back to cars) and back in Brisbane about noon. Good fun
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19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Nov 2003 | ||||
I onsigthed the second, third and fifth pitch. This is a great route for an adventure but be aware of severe runouts on the second last pitch with problematic bolt finding. The rest of the climb is very well bolted.
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19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | Average | Sun 3rd Aug 2008 | ||||
Stoked. Lead p1, p3, p5. Moves were average. Soft for the grade. Worth a lap thou.
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19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | Sat 27th Jul 2002 | |||||
Onsighted pitches 2, 4 and 6. Seconded pitches 1, 3 and 5.
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19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Nov 2003 | ||||
led 1st, 3rd & 5th pitch. frequent loose rock- BRILLIANT
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19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Aug 2003 | ||||
pitches 2 and 4
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19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | 2000 | ||||
With Richard Calf on the day of the 2000 NRL grand final (Richard was gutted to miss game on TV oh well) I led crux
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19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 2nd Aug 2006 | ||||
With Tash. Onsighted pitches 2,4 & 6. Three hours for the climb, a great morning out. The curx pitch was not nearly as scary as I had been led to believe.
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19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Tue 18th Jul 2006 | ||||
Thanks Bruce for the day! Runouts, honeycomb rock, sun and ant swarms, very memorable. lead 1st, 3rd (crux) and 5th. 185 meters of enjoyment. Nice route Neil.
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19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th Jul 2009 | ||||
a tibro classic, interesting and involving climbing
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19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Jul 2004 | ||||
with Ross and Kev. Bolts need replacing! will be done soon. also 22.5.02
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19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress | 190m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Wed 27th Jul 2005 | ||||
A classy long route. I didn't get the feeling it was that loose, I think its popularity hass culled most of the bad rock. All good and adequaltly protected throughtout, bar the last easy pitch.
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