Ascents in NE Buttress Sector as Onsight

Great outing! Adventurous vibes but very safely protected. P4 & 5 were standouts - airy position and fun moves.

Simuled the first 2 pitches. Excellent Crux pitch, stemmy with good gear. Traversed at 7th pitch into Ross Miller to cave 5, quite the traverse.

Fun day out, crux pitch climbs really well with good gear.

It's pretty much a sports climb. Fully bolted all the way up, except the first few metres of P1. Hanger with carabiner is available at the 30m mark of P3 if a 70m rope is what you have.

Quality route - Nice amount of exposure and good climbing

Great day out, quality rock and nice exposure for the grade. Linked pitches 4 & 5, no gear needed after pitch 3. 21 degrees and overcast, would not go near this on a hot day.

Pack with 2nd 60m (to allow rap retreat) was something of a hinderance. Loose rock was most notable on pitch 4, but was here and there on most pitches. Other than FHs, used only x2 slings on pitch 3. Long or alpine draws suggested for pitch 5. Descent via Caves Route (x5 rappels). For 1st rappel x2 60m used with EDK as uncertain about length of descent, however now know one 60m rope is (just) sufficient. Also stuck rope required ascent and retrieval on completion of this 1st rappel (at CR chimney). Approx 5 hours to ascend. Approx 2.5 hours to descend, which includes some stooging around in cave 5 and lost time with stuck rope.

Pretty good. Adequate gear. Has its own anchor up and left. Does not go back right to Blabbermouth original pitch 1 anchor. Too far. After the anchor I did go right a bit to join the P2 traverse at its first bolt.

Perfect day out, car to car in 5hrs which meant Will didn't have to skip his prior commitment of kayaking in the brown snake with Riverlife. Linked pitches 2/3, 4/5, 6/7. Pitches 4/5 needed about 22 draws which was unfortunate given we had a total of 18. Awesome climbing the whole way but needed a lot of slings to reduce drag when linking pitches. Didn't love the unroped scramble up from the top of pitch 8 to caves but otherwise a solid day out.

Such a great route.

Very fun climb, the traverses are great. Engaging enough to be interesting but nothing too hard to worry about. It's mostly a sport climb with occasional gear on p1-p2. A single rack is more than enough, or even just a set of nuts and a few small cams up to #2 would do.

Climb 27 of 50. A really great climb! Felt more like an 18 than a 20. Not sure which was the crux pitch, but Kate and I both felt that pitch 2 was the crux. The only disappointing aspect of this route is that we literally only placed 1 cam (pitch 1 start), and 1 nut (pitch 3). I missed the trad placement on pitch 2, but Kate said there was a nut placement there. It seems silly to cart an entire rack up for 2 or 3 placements. In my personal opinion, if this route had two or 3 more bolts, it would be a really popular fully bolted sport route. Alas, I think people are put off by the "Mixed Trad" status, and the assigned grade of 20, and therefore this route doesn't see the traffic it deserves. I feel it's a grade 18, or 19 at most. Anyway, perhaps the first ascentionists would be amenable to a retro-bolt ;-) Ha ha. Definitely worth doing this climb again.

What a great day out, perfect weather and a really fun route. Ended up rapping down caves route as the rap on the top of cave 5 has two horribly rusted millions-although the hangers looked fine. 4th and 5th pitches are the money in terms of exposure but pitch 7 had some real nice moves also

Fun day out climbing. Climbed variant crack but ended up at sunburnt P1 anchors so rejoined blabbermouth at P2 anchors. Linked 5&6.

Definitely one of the better Tibro multis, does compare to the Bluies unfortunately