Help

Smoke Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 109
  • Content Quality: Medium

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 6 months ago

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Bulging Arapiles like cliff about 30 metres right of the Schmitt Block. Chains in ledge before roof at far right end. (Above Do You Mind if I Smoke?)

Access issues inherited from Harrop Track

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Approach

Turn right off the uphill track and follow the base of the cliff right a few hundred metres.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Start at back of gully right of Schmitt Block, near a big block. Crack, then scoop.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

Located in the back of the gully on the left side of Smoke Wall, 4m right of Fun Factor. A tricky start leads to increasingly harder climbing.

FA: geoff butcher, 1991

The crack near the arete, 2 metres right of Sniffing The White Owl.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Judy Grove, 1991

A complete waste of time.

Start: on the left side of the orange wall is a short crack, 4m left of Smoking Is A Health Hazard. After the crack traverse 2m right and then go up rightwards.

FA: Peter Watling & Ceri Law, 1979

Very thin seam up the face left of A Burnt Out Case, belay when easier ground is reached.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kieran Loughran, 1984

Climb up pillar into large crack, follow up over bulge, traverse right on horizontal seam to centre of the face, then straight up line to ledge before roof, chains are on right of ledge.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Kevin Lindorff, 1984

Up flake crack right of A Burnt Out Case, up past bolt and slightly left.

Great line up the centre of the wall. Committing start on pockets up to bolts & crack/overlaps, crossing A Burnt Out Case halfway.

FA: rob booth & steve chapman

The best route in the area of it's grade. Starts 4m right of A Burnt Out Case at small roof/overlap. Seams and horizontals to open book corner and tricky final face.

FA: Terry Tremble, Kieran Loughran & Paul Vlahovic, 1984

Right hand variant of Do You Mind If I Smoke, start 5 metres to right., Below crack/seams at R end of cave. Gymnastic start up jugs and crack, then trend up and L up horizontals and bulges till you join " Do You Mind If I Smoke" at its crux.

FA: Jimmy Stephens & Peter Bovino, 30 Apr 2016

Good line, pity about the poor rock quality and fiddly/crap protection. Not worth a star in my opinion.

Start: About 4-5m right up the arete (start off the big boulder to it's right).

Up the arete then left to finish up "Do You Mind If I Smoke?" and rap off at the ledge.

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Smoke Wall.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文