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Routes as trad in Gilham's Crags - Northside

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Showing all 27 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
12 Hippy Chick

The grey face around right of the cave. Up weird chimney-crack, left along horizontal and climb pocketed wall above.

FA: Matilda Schmitt, Gary Schmitt & Reignforest Burgerlent, 1990

Trad 20m Victoria Range
17 Tickets Please

Start up Hippy Chick and continue directly up face above.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton & Peter Woodfield, 1990

Trad 18m Victoria Range
21 G.I. Joe

The left side of War Wall is comprised of grey and orange "bums. Start on the left side of a flake. Originally climbed in two pitches. Climb onto ledge and make balancy moves past bolt to jugs. At the ledge, move right and climb the steep, well-protected wall.

FA: Michael Hampton & Huw Lewis, 1991

Trad 22m Victoria Range
27 Here Comes the Storm

A frustrating crux. The prominent middle crack-line on the orange wall. Stepped corner-crack to ledge. Step right and up line to a slippery crack (awkward to clip FH on left). After difficulties step left and up steep wall.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1990

Mixed trad 22m, 1 Victoria Range
23 Desert Storm

Start right of Stalingrad and move up to slots. Hard moves left into Stalingrad (BR, PR) which is followed to the horizontal. Move right and up to small ledge. Continue up weakness then move left and up grey wall when level with overhang. Finish as for Stalingrad.

FA: Michael Hampton & Peter Woodfield, 1991

Trad 23m Victoria Range
20 Never Too Fat to Slap

Pull up the line of buckets. Start on the left side of the orange face at a grey section.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton & Rob Nabben, 1990

Trad 18m Victoria Range
12 One Man Show

Up as for Hippy Chick then across right to easier wall.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1990

Trad 18m Victoria Range
24 Touching the Tiger

Not bad. Starts up the L side of the wall and climbs direct to cave / roof. Step R, then blast up wall to FH and desperate moves to gain final groove.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1990

Mixed trad 30m, 1 Victoria Range
24 Stalingrad

Excellent and sustained. Start right of G.I. Joe at grey streaks. Up past BR to flat-top and PR (good idea to clip the bolt on Desert Storm from here). Continue up wall to horizontal break. Move left and pull through to next horizontal. Left again then up short crack, moving right and up to ledge.

FA: Edwin Young & Michael Hampton, 1991

Trad 23m Victoria Range
20 George Bush

Start just left of Touching The Tiger, climbs up and left to a BR up high, then left and up via a committing crux.

FA: Rob Nabben & Richard Eccleston, 1990

Mixed trad 35m, 1 Victoria Range
24 Andy Warwall

A wild outing. Start at the bottom of the wall directly below roof. Up to hanging corner and up overhanging arete above (4 FH). Easier climbing after the ledge.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Edwin Young, 1991

Mixed trad 25m, 4 Victoria Range
12 Peacehaven

Straight up 8 metres right of One Man Show

FA: Graeme Smith & Debbie Ng, 1995

Trad 15m Victoria Range
18 What's So Funny Bout Peace Love And Understanding? Variant Start

The right side of the flake, then moving left.

FA: Michael Hampton & Huw Lewis, 1991

Trad Victoria Range
23 Carnivore

Start on the right side of the wall at an easier corner system leading up into some clean caves.

  1. 20m Up to the cave on the left.

  2. 20m (23) Step left and pull up wall and black crack-line until this blanks out. Step left (crux) and up into final groove of Touching The Tiger

FA: Richard Eccleston, Glenn Tempest & Rob Nabben, 1990

Trad 40m Victoria Range
18 Hierschel Heroines

Start on block on left side of face. Directly up to ledge, then up and left past BR to gain left-leading crack.

FA: Richard Eccleston & Andrew Roberts, 1991

Trad 25m Victoria Range
24 Pumping Mutton

Steep and strenuous. Line in middle of wall past bulge, finishing up right-hand weakness.

FA: Alistair Mark & Huw Lewis, 1991

Trad 15m Victoria Range
15 A Martyr's Life

The shallow corner and on past big blocks.

FA: Richard Eccleston & Andrew Roberts, 1991

Trad 15m Victoria Range
25 Sportz & All

Dangerous right-hand route. Boulder to high first bolt and up line above (BR). Bolts placed by another party prior to FA. Only 1 bolt used on FA.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Trad 18m Victoria Range
16 Scared Stiff

Steep broken orange corner at left end. Finish left under roof.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Michael Hampton, 1991

Trad 20m Victoria Range
21 Goats Head Soup

Obvious steep line right of Never Too Fat Too Slap.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Trad 18m Victoria Range
18 Athletes Foot

Start at the base of the gully on the right side of the wall. Climb the left side of the gully then a long reach to an undercling. Up on big holds.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

Trad 12m Victoria Range
18 Bad Influence

Down left around the corner from Scared Stiff is a huge cave. Start at the left end.

  1. 15m Step off boulder, through the overhang to left-leading ramp. 2) 20m (18) Up nice corner until it ends then right up steep headwall.

FA: Michael Hampton & Stephen Hamilton, 1991

Trad 35m Victoria Range
15 Sporting Aces

The recessed wall at the very left end of Sportz Wall. Climb flake crack left of black slab and finish up orange streaks.

FA: Peter Woodfield & Rhyl Shaw, 1991

Trad 20m Victoria Range
12 The War Is Over

The first crack-line to a ledge, then steeply but easily.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Trad 20m Victoria Range
15 Loose Living

Takes a wandering line up the grey wall opposite War Wall. Finish up short corner.

FA: Huw Lewis & Peter Woodfield, 1991

Trad 40m Victoria Range
14 Scud

FA: Peter Campbell & Jamie Serle, 1991

Trad 20m Victoria Range
19 What's So Funny Bout Peace Love And Understanding? Variant Finish

The original finish. From the cave/ledge move left to weakness and up.

FA: Michael Hampton, Glen Tempest & Edwin Young, 1991

Trad 11m Victoria Range

Showing all 27 routes.

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