Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||
20 | Mum's Word
Thin, with spaced pro. Take small cams. Up slabby left arete of Socrophilliac for 12m to break (#4 cam), right 2m above break along thin, horizontal crack almost into Socrophiliac, then delicately to ledge. Left arete and over bulge. FA: Matthew & Daniel Brooks, 1991 | 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
9 | Socrophiliac
Landmark, left facing corner crack on left side of outcrop. FA: Clive Parker & Lesley Kefford, 1968 | 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
19 | High Society
Crack 4m right of Socrophiliac to break, right and up over bulge on arete to ledge. L to crack, up to short traverse into Socrophiliac. FA: Matthew & Daniel Brooks, 1991 | 27m | Halls Gap Area | ||
11 | Jagger
THe first pitch is quite dramatic for the grade but the second is rubbish. Start: Initialled line at the LH end of the cliff, the initial is 8m up, at the first ledge [about 250m R of StEF]. This is the L one of a series of cliff splitting lines.
FA: Derek Lord & Chris baxter [alt], 1967 | 74m, 2 | Halls Gap Area | ||
16 | Second Choice
Looks a bit pointless. From 18m up 'Jagger' go R into finger crack. Up this for 5m to overhang. Step R, go over overhang then back L to finish up 'Jagger' FA: Carl karancsay, Trevor Fiske & Gerald Gierer, 1986 | 30m | Halls Gap Area | ||
15 | Rimbaud
Start: Crack 10m R of 'Jagger'. Originally soloed by Phillip Stranger and graded 9. Some rotten rock and a large loose chockstone on P1.
FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967 | 53m, 2 | Halls Gap Area | ||
16 | ★★ The Righteous
An old long forgotten classic. Good fun and a good line. Start: 'Steep' corner 3m R of 'Rimbaud'.
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst [alt], 1967 | 43m, 2 | Halls Gap Area | ||
20 | ★ Fiddler
Not bad. Start: 60m R of TR is a flake crack with an overhanging start.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Bruno Zielke [alt], 1969 | 62m, 2 | Halls Gap Area | ||
19 R | Fiddler Direct Finish
Looks bold and scary. 2a] R 2m from shallow scoop on 'Fiddler' then up and L 5m to easier ground. Up. FA: Peter Treby & David Webb, 1984 | 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
14 | The Trog
This is the L hand of 4 cliff splitting chimney lines seen clearly from Halls Gap. Supposedly once popular it is now rather dirty and neglected. Despite this the climbing is quite interesting, steep and varied. Start: 5m R of 'Fiddler', a chimney corner.
FA: Derek Lord & Chris Baxter, 1967 | 68m, 2 | Halls Gap Area | ||
15 | The Aphrodisiac
Not bad old fashioned chimney and crack struggle, if you like that kind of thing. Start: Major crack line 12m R of 'The Trog'. Seems to have been fairly recently initialled [2010]
FA: Phillip Stranger & Daryl Carr [alt], 1967 | 60m, 2 | Halls Gap Area | ||
11 | ★ Psychotic Reaction
Major initialled line 8m R of TA.
Another Phillip Stranger solo first ascent. FA: Phillip Stranger solo, 1967 | 46m, 2 | Halls Gap Area | ||
11 | ★ Manolete
A cool chimney which gives a fun lower grade adventure - good for a hot day. 5m R of PR.
FA: Phillip Stranger [solo], 1967 | 46m, 3 | Halls Gap Area | ||
24 | ★ The Force, Jeremy, Use the Force
Start: 35m R of Manolette. There is a prominent L leaning diagonal crack high up below capping ceiling.
FA: Jeremy Boreham & Kevin Lindorff [alt], 1994 | 65m, 2 | Halls Gap Area | ||
22 | ★ Peccadillos
An attractive variation on The Force etc Up as for TFJUTF then continue up wall on R past 2 FH to belay as for TFJUTF. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1994 | 35m | Halls Gap Area | ||
19 | Nemesis
Used to be considered a classic, but seems to have got a lot more lichenous over the years. Surprisingly steep. The first 2 pitches can be run together and there are abseil chains at the top of them. Start: Initialled line 30m R of The Force etc.
FA: Roger Caffin, Clive Parker [var & with unknown amounts of aid], 1967 | 55m, 3 | Halls Gap Area | ||
18 | Mocha
Looks loose and daunting. Take big pro. Start: 5m R of 'Nemesis'.
FA: P1 Peter Treby, Mark Woods. P2 Stephen Hamilton & Graeme Owens., 1995 | 60m, 2 | Halls Gap Area | ||
17 | Mocha Alternative Finish
| 30m | Halls Gap Area | ||
26 R | ★★ The Grand Cappuccino
The awe inspiring crack thru' the orange roof with the big guano streaks beneathe it clearly visible from Halls Gap. Originally a fierce and intimidating aid climb on rotten rock, even more terrifying now it is free. Can be done as a mixed route at about 18 M4 for those who like exposed aid climbing. Start: 3m R of 'Mocha'
FA: Geoff Gledhill & Mike Stone [alt], 1970 | 70m, 2 | Halls Gap Area | ||
17 R | Karen Alexander
P2 takes the dirty mossy arete out R of BGs corner. P1 is filthy, hard and poorly protected. Start: 8m R of BG. Initialled
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger., 1967 | 87m, 3 | Halls Gap Area | ||
17 | Bernadette Grace
The 2nd pitch is a good sustained corner. Worth doing. Started originally as for 'Karen Alexander' but the first pitch of that climb is so mossy now that it is best avoided. The first pitch is just a way to get to the corner. Start: 22m R of 'Dedication'. A big L facing corner leading to a roof.
FA: Norm Booth & John Smart, 1977 | 87m, 3 | Halls Gap Area | ||
20 | Transmutation
Start: 70m R of KA below a L leading diagonal above large boulders. [I was on the first ascent and I couldn't find it again when I looked recently! PA)
FA: Philip Armstrong & Kevin Lindorff [alt] Tony Dignan., 1978 | 30m, 2 | Halls Gap Area | ||
19 R | ★ Heffalump Trap for Poohs
Has the right number of bolts, but they are not in the right places. I imagine this was bolted on lead. With a bit of a clean and bolt rationalisation could make a good route. 2m L pf PS. Unprotected moves up L to first bolt, thin moves up past another bolt to mossy ledge. Up past another bolt to a friable unprotected bulge with a bolt after the hard moves. Up to knobbly wall [#0.5 cam] and on to large ledge with DBB. [also possible to duck R to ES belay] FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissie Freestone, 1992 | 43m, 3 | Halls Gap Area | ||
16 R | Hide of a Wino
Unprotected at the hard parts, but some quite nice climbing. 24m L of PS at very L end of overlap at 3m. Over this and up slab past obvious knob [10m up, first pro] for 15m, then diagonally R to flakes. Up these until they run out in 10m. Now 3m up knobby wall, then 3m diagonally L up unprotected delicate wall. Up slab for 10m and little wall above. FA: Mike Law [solo], 1991 | 60m | Halls Gap Area | ||
15 | Tusker
Start: L leading diagonal 8m L of HoW. This is the lowest of 3 diagonals.
FA: Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton [alt] & Josh Holko, 1991 | 50m, 2 | Halls Gap Area | ||
20 | The Casting Couch
| 16m | Halls Gap Area | ||
18 | Dick Tracy
Strenuous and exciting. Corner below roof near L end of cliff. Traverse R to arête. Steeply up and slightly L into groove and on. FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 1990 | 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
17 | Dan the Man
Tiered, R leading crack. Up short L facing corner beside block then traverse L to line. Up FA: Stephen Hamilton & Nick Tapp, 1990 | 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
12 | To Strings Attached
Strong crack 3m r of brocken corner just R of DM. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1990 | 20m | Halls Gap Area | ||
12 | ★ Roast Lapin
Crack around arête R of DM, just L of scrubby corner. FA: Chris, Sue Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 1990 | 20m | Halls Gap Area | ||
9 | Hats Off to Egger
| 22m | Halls Gap Area | ||
10 | ★★ First Blood
| 24m | Halls Gap Area | ||
7 | Ages Ago
| 20m | Halls Gap Area | ||
15 | Spirit of the Anzacs
| 22m | Halls Gap Area | ||
12 | Wallflower
| 24m | Halls Gap Area | ||
14 | ★ Inklings of Glory
| 21m | Halls Gap Area | ||
15 | Night Shift Blues
| 20m | Halls Gap Area | ||
20 | My Friend Flicker
| 15m | Halls Gap Area | ||
14 | Cerro Torre
| 15m | Halls Gap Area | ||
16 | Blockbuster
| 30m | Halls Gap Area | ||
13 | Split the Difference
| 30m | Halls Gap Area | ||
10 | Duplo
| 20m | Halls Gap Area | ||
11 | Technic
| 20m | Halls Gap Area | ||
9 | Happy Meal
| 20m | Halls Gap Area | ||
15 | Breakfast at Macka's
| 20m | Halls Gap Area | ||
13 | Regurgitator
| 20m | Halls Gap Area | ||
14 | Tumbledown
| 30m | Halls Gap Area | ||
12 | Big Mac
| 20m | Halls Gap Area | ||
13 | Slap and Tickle
| 35m | Halls Gap Area | ||
7 | Ponsonby's Crack
2m R of Yin and Yang. Up over the boulder into the chimney that takes a direct line to the top. FA: John Fisher & Jonathan Bloomfield, 1983 | 27m | Halls Gap Area | ||
6 | Yang
As for Yin but take the chimney on the R. FA: John Fisher & Jonathan Bloomfield, 1983 | 27m | Halls Gap Area | ||
6 | Yin
2mR of Gelati Crumble. Move up the crack past the gum tree and over the overhang. Then move up the L chimney on good holds. 12.11.83 FA: John Fisher & Jonathan Bloomfield, 1983 | 27m | Halls Gap Area | ||
7 | Gelati Crumble
The thin crack 2m R of Dodgem Delight. Continue up veering R to move up the crack between Dodgem Delight and Yang and follow R side of buttress to top. FA: John Fisher solo, 1983 | 27m | Halls Gap Area | ||
9 | Dodgem Delight
5m R of Barabajagal. Start at a short wall with a couple of reachy moves. Up the ramp to the base of a bottomless chimney to the top FA: Ceri Law & Bill Andrews, 1981 | 28m | Halls Gap Area | ||
10 | ★ Ringtail
Start up Dodgem Delight. Step left at the bush at the top of the first wall and follow the corner above. FA: Bill Andrews & Ceri Law, 1981 | 28m | Halls Gap Area | ||
15 | ★★ Barabajagal
The first main line on the R hand of the orange rock. Up past a small tree, layback off the creaking hold, past another tree then the line to the top FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1981 | 30m | Halls Gap Area | ||
16 | Shuper Sheet
The buttress left of Barabajagal with sparse protection | 28m | Halls Gap Area | ||
9 | Frank Nugan's Hand
4m L of Barabajagal. Up the block onto the front of the buttress and into the chimney. Bridge wide then climb the L wall for a few metres stepping L to finish at the top. FA: Peter Watling & Bill Andrews FFA: 1981 | 39m | Halls Gap Area | ||
9 | Major Mitchell's Minor Chimney
2m L of Frank Nugans Hand. Up the crack into the chimney , at the choss move L and up over some blocks. FA: Bill Andrews & Ceri Law, 1981 | 29m | Halls Gap Area | ||
17 | Shuper
Climb the crack between Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney and Deshperado. Move R from the bollard then climb the buttress direct. FA: Peter Martin & Ed Steenbergen, 1991 | 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
14 | Deshperado
2m L of Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney. Up the wall on the L of the crack step R below the bollard and up the R hand crack into the chimney. Up past the tree and easily onwards. FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1983 | 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
20 | Shuper Duper
Starts as for Deshperado. Move L from the bollard and up the wall. FA: Steve Jones & Peter Martin 21.3.91, 1991 | 22m | Halls Gap Area | ||
18 | ★ Precarious
2m L of Deshperado. Up to the roof, over it and then the crack. FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1983 FFA: Allan Hope, 1984 | 20m | Halls Gap Area | ||
15 | The Nose and Tina
As for Dynomotive but at the ledge step R onto the arete and follow flakes up steep face, being wary of loose blocks. 12.11.83 FA: Kieran Loughran, Paul Horne & Heather Phillips, 1983 | 20m | Halls Gap Area | ||
16 | ★ Dynomotive
The black streak 3m L of Precarious is thin and unprotected. Up the streak to a ledge at 6m then the corner on the R hand end of the ledge. FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1981 | 23m | Halls Gap Area | ||
18 | ★ Portrait of Dorian Gray
Starts 2m L of Dynomotive. Up to gain a jug in the middle of the face and on to the ledge. An unprotected bouldery problem that could do with a bolt. Up just R of Crocks Alley (it's a struggle to stay out of that climb). FA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1983 | 27m | Halls Gap Area | ||
8 | Crocks' Alley
1m L of Portrait Of Dorian Gray. Up the crack and wall, bypass the bush on the R and regain the crack. 25.4.81 FA: Ceri Law & Bill Andrews, 1984 | 23m | Halls Gap Area | ||
14 | Revelations
Scramble up to ledge at foot of distinct, right facing flake crack near right end of cliff. Up this to overhang, step left, up vague muggy line above. Set: Barry Edwards & Bill Andrews, 1977 | 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
6 | ★ Ghost Rope Arete
| 20m | Halls Gap Area | ||
16 | Red Herring
| 30m | Halls Gap Area | ||
13 | Echidna
| 40m | Halls Gap Area | ||
8 | ★★ Sundance Kid
| 40m | Halls Gap Area | ||
12 | Sundance Kid Direct Start
| 8m | Halls Gap Area | ||
19 | Spend a Penny
| 45m | Halls Gap Area | ||
12 | The Noonday Sun
| 33m | Halls Gap Area | ||
24 | ★ Morning Glory
| 40m | Halls Gap Area | ||
16 | ★★ Ayesha
| 48m | Halls Gap Area | ||
21 | ★ 1921
| 45m | Halls Gap Area | ||
11 | Locust Wing
| 32m | Halls Gap Area | ||
17 | Harsh Reality
| 40m | Halls Gap Area | ||
13 | Cicada
| 33m | Halls Gap Area | ||
12 | Hedgehog
| 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
19 | ★★ Modern Dancing
| 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
19 | Modern Dancing Direct Finish
| 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
21 | ★ Jumping Jack Flash
| 30m | Halls Gap Area | ||
16 | The Voyage of the Beagle
| 30m | Halls Gap Area | ||
20 | ★ The Transit of Venus
| 30m | Halls Gap Area | ||
18 | The Ascent of Everest
| 30m | Halls Gap Area | ||
15 | In Other Words
| 27m | Halls Gap Area | ||
14 | The One Bangla Missed
| 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
19 | Wayne Gardener
| 26m | Halls Gap Area | ||
16 | ★★ Sic Transit Gloria
| 26m | Halls Gap Area | ||
18 | Thine Eyes
| 30m | Halls Gap Area | ||
10 | The Voyage of Dum Tweedle
| 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
13 | An Attack of the Thunders
| 25m | Halls Gap Area | ||
13 | The Harry Secombe Memorial Buttress
| 40m | Halls Gap Area | ||
15 | Secret Men's Business
| 30m | Halls Gap Area | ||
16 | Rounders
| 23m | Halls Gap Area | ||
19 | Without Oxygen
| 23m | Halls Gap Area | ||
13 | Moriarty
| 25m | Halls Gap Area |