Ascents in Loopeys having Beta

Got this one second go which is weird because I'm far from being a V9 climber. I think the grade is really off. Used left heel in the orange seam for the big move. Still fun!

https://www.instagram.com/deeloc15/p/BvFktjShQ0K/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=xg1kkz6x8qla

soft i think but kinda awkward

Worked out a sequence, then sent first shot. Not as hard as I was expecting it to be.

Hard but I'm not sure if v8 hard. Splits!!!

figured out the first moves but dunno what to do for the end.

Surprisingly tricky. Really good.

x3

What a cool move, I pulled of the sloper as I was too short to use Al's cheat sequence. First V7.

Easy if tall. only took a few goes to work ou the bump from the sloper to jug. GO REACH!

Wall 2m left of Old Henry's Fun Climb. Up past diag slash to a pair of slopey edges, then long move up right to pocket and jugs

had to do it the short man way and actually pull off the sloper but made it better.

2nd shot - July '04

shut down! but doable if ya feeling strong. ill back for this puppy...

great problem

great! Condition dependent, few shots

whew... toughie...

Got tired of donating skin to the rock for that massive pocket in terrible warm conditions. Will be back for this though. Slopiest of slopest pocket with sharp deepest pocket.. love it.

Hard, really hard. I there was a good foothold out left it would make this much easier

Need some good cold conditions for this sloper!

More like bitch pocket. Fun punchy climb

painfully fun

Sharp pocket is scary

Finger tape advised.

Finally connected the dyno! Feels really comfortable when I got the fingers in the pocket just right.

Fun cut loose move to the pocket. Third shot.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bh81DEul4l7/

Climbed this again. Must say, muscle memory is certainly a powerful thing!

Perfect

Fantastic climb, super fun dynamic crux. (Hidden beta is a early morning send before sloper gets spongy)

Lost some precious skin on that pocket. Great problem though!

Took about 6-7 shots to work out how to hit the pocket. Very dynamic one move problem. Pretty cool once you nail it

Watching the sun come up was pretty sweet, shame i got shut down on everyhting i tried. At least i got all the moves now.

Better than it looks I thought. I was a bit sceptical at first as it looked poxy but was pretty good. Felt very v7 to me.

cool moves. got it just befor it got wet again

again 10/08/05

4 or 5 shots. just lock off those crimps!

5th try.

2nd shot

good link up with fassion

got all the beta now.. just need skin to do it.

Some funky reaches

Not sure how to do the middle bit? Match? cross?

Great climb - probably not 7 though

Some nice moves.

energy sapping goodness

3rd try.

July '04

yet more failed attempts

First tried 3 years ago, finally ticked after intermitant attempts since.