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Routes as trad in Cut Lunch Walls

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Showing all 11 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
21 American Anthrax Attack

2001 was a glorious time to work in the postal service. FHs up wall 3m left of 'Twisted Horizons'. Just an average filler route. Be careful of loose rock.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001

Mixed trad 24m, 5 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
17 Access Line

The easy way to the Upper Cut Lunch Wall's fabulous sport routes. In reality its a four move boulder problem off the deck then grade 5 climbing from then on. Starts on small rock about 10m left of the Salad Abuse arête.

FA: Gay Welders Union (solo), 2001

Trad 20m Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
19 Three Course Meal

A good route up a major water streak on far right end of crag 7m right of 'The Snatch' below a broken easy corner.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001

Trad 30m Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
23 The Snatch

Nails hard reach crux which is way out of keeping with the rest of this route. Superb orange left facing corner on the right side of Lower 'Cut Lunch Walls'. Another good find by Dave Vass.

Start: The start is marked.

FA: Dave Vass & John Gallstone, 1988

Trad 15m Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
22 R Romeo Is Bleeding

"I really felt like a proper climber that day" Jon Bassindale. Amazingly both pitches of this route were claimed as new routes years later.

Start: Starts as for 'Raindancer' at the arete with the big trench below.

  1. 20m (18) Lean across the zawn, clip first bolt on Randancer and climb the overhanging arête to the terrace on trad. In 1992 Peter Stebbins placed the now bent and rusted BR and claimed the pitch as Salad Abuse (20).

  2. 40m (22) Bring RP's and expect runouts. Walk to the left end of the terrace and drop down to belay on the right of the big red wall. Traverse left to a big mushroom on a ledge. Up and slightly right, then head for the big hanging corner crack and thence the top. In 1997 Goshen Watts repeated the route thinking he was doing a new climb, calling it Lucky Jesus 'Houdini' Rex (23).

FA: Jon Bassindale, Roland Foster & Martin Scheel, 1989

Mixed trad 60m, 2, 1 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
16 Bat in a Hole

Watch for the angry bat that lives in a pocket near the top! Up Raindancer to the RB. Step left and easily up the corner keeping an eye out for the biting pockets. Belay below Malcolm's Crack on trad. Rap off tree to descend.

FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2004

Mixed trad 14m, 2 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
24 Malcolms Crack

He's good at climbing them, but hopeless at naming them! The finger crack with a bulge down low on the far left end of Upper Cut Lunch Walls to anchor.

FA: Malcolm Matheson Neil Monteith, 2004

Mixed trad 10m, 1 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
22 Scrape on Through To The Other Side

More like a Lindorff grade 20! Starting as for The Snatch, but climb straight up to the roof crack. Grab the perfect thread hold and thrash leftwards using every traditional trick in the book to gain the lip. Up the juggy offwidth to ledge and finish up left wall.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith, 2001

Trad 20m Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
22 Slam Dunk

Awkward and not very inspiring. Start 8m left of 'The Snatch' below steep rounded arête.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust, 1988

Trad 20m Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
23 R Justin Thyme

In memory of the controversial letter writer from the mid 00s. Needs a couple of bolts as it was climbed on pre-placed wires. Start 8m right of 'Raindancer' below short steep corner.

FA: Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2004

Trad 10m Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
18 9am

Start: Start about 50m right of 'The Snatch' below a buttress with an 'obvious' undercling flake.

  1. 40m (18) Up to flake then up right onto top of buttress, then easy slab.

  2. 20m (18) Shift belay to base of the corner up right, then climb corner.

FA: James McIntosh & Mick Jennings (alt), 1998

Trad 60m, 2 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)

Showing all 11 routes.

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