Routes as trad in Mt Fox Area

Another superb line. The best 27 in the 'Grampians' - although most think its actually 28!

Start: Start about 8m R of After Midnight.

A beautiful gobsmacking line. The manky old carrots at the start have now been placed with rings. A long stick-clip is required as the crux is the start.

Start: Start 3m R of the base of the rock step separating the upper and lower tiers of the crag.

Simply awesome. Sustained, technical and amazing climbing the whole way.

Start: As you walk up to the cliff you chimney just past the start (on a sloping ledge to your left) before you get to a ledge and big flat rock up on your right (great place for photos).

The crack on the arete left of "Foxfire" has a good start but then gets quite easy.

1. 26m (17) Step into the crack from the right (direct into crack is grade 18) and up to a ledge.

2. 18m (-) Finish up the line.

Sustained and great.

1. 35m Climb the little corner just R of Wallscrawl, moving R on to the vague arete after the friable section. Up and R on to main wall, then up through smooth section and a little L into the line of weakness which leads to a SHB at central of three deep cracks just above the first main dyke.

2. 25m Continue steeply up the line to tilted horizontal line. Step L, then climb cracks above to a patch of grass, which is just below the second dyke. Head up and R to crack/slot, then straight up crossing horizontal that becomes overlap further R to a dramatic exit L via first weakness R of Whipping Boy etc.

A fantastic route - it's like an easier version of Archimedes Principle (Eureka Wall)! The rock is superbly featured, but it can be rather brittle (esp on first pitch).

1. 35m It's pretty hard to determine exactly where pitch 1 should go, but all options seem to be about the same difficulty. Aim towards the right most of three deep cracks just above the first main dyke.

2. 30m Up and slightly R, aiming for the distinctive eye (which provides the means for passing through the second dyke). Keep on the same up-and-right trajectory to pull through the overlap to weakness in head-wall.

A pleasant mixture of slab climbing and exposed but juggy face-climbing. Start below central rib, on face R of 'bowl'. 1) 12m Climb the slab and veer R to belay at the L end of a ledge, at a tree. 2) 40m Go up L on to the slabby rib and climb it to the little roof. Go L and pull through the weakness. Up to the next roof, over it, and up cracks to the top.

Excellent adventure climbing following the obvious curving line on the L end of the cliff. Generally sound rock and good holds compensate for the tasty steepness. Start at L end of wall at corner under roof.

1. 30m (crux) Up, then move out L to pass overhang. There’s a couple of steps back R to follow the line. Belay on ledge at half height.

2. 30m Continue up curving line to steep exit through notch.

3. 20m Scramble to the top or walk L along terrace to abseil bollard.

Despite the addition of a bolt on the initial arete this is still fairly bold.

1. 27m (22) Climb the short, rounded arete 3 metres left of "Twentieth 'Century' Fox" past a bolt, stepping right into that climb at 9 metres. Continue up the flakes on TCF and traverse left to the second bolt on that climb. Now diagonally right to another bolt and go right and up to a ledge and bolt anchors.

2. 23m (19) Climb delicately left and up with poor protection.

Climbing in superb positions up the most imposing line on the wall. The first ascent was completed in true Patagonian conditions; gale force winds, torrential rain and hail.

Start: Start at the chimney just left of "Fox On The Run"

1. 26m (-) Climb the chimney to the roof and then the corner-crack above the roof to a large ledge on the left.

2. 18m (17) Up the beautiful yellow corner to the roof. Exit right and finish easily.

Similar climbing to 'Arrows of Desire' but steeper and on even better holds. Start just R of the Ballad of Idwal 'Slabs', 4m L of the little corner. 1) 16m Climb the slab to a ledge. 2) 36m Climb the wall directly above to finish up twin cracks.

Quite exposed on the traverse. 1) 35m Climb the scooped line R of Chariots of Fire into the corner above. Go up the corner to the R end of the slabby ledge and up the corner above. When just below the roof step R to a ledge. 2) 25m Pull over the overhang above the belay and traverse back L (watch rope-drag) on the lip into the L-leaning arch, which is followed in a dramatic position until the line heads up the steep wall above on surprising holds. 2a) 30m, grade 15**. traverse 4m left from belay, head up through the juggy break in small roof(!) in to the original line. Well protected.

Left hand start to minimal tech.

Beaut moves in an excellent position on good rock. Takes the sweeping arête / pillar in centre of wall, finishing at double rings. 3 BR's.

The right-hand of twin lines left of "Fox Trot".

Start 15m R of 'Ancient Times'. 1) 30m Follow the delightful arête. 2) 30m Climb the flake to the roof, L (brittle) into gully and up.

Stunning route up the middle of the wall; one of the best crack-vertical-slab combinations around. Hard technical crux after first bolt and a second (hard to protect) crux up high after the last bolt.

It has been queried if this climb is actually possible; this is from Mike Law: "I got pulled /tensioned/short-roped off last moves when belayer collapsed with heatstroke, finished right instead I think. Crux is the steep wall above the crack - pretty Foxy 25+"

It goes free at 26, climbing straight up after last bolt. 4 BR and run-out trad.

Peter Mills and Nic Kiraly raved about this route for almost 2 weeks after repeating it. The words "Awesome", "stunning" and "mindblowing" could be heard repeatedly for the entire night after this ascent. God knows what Steve & Keith's friends had to endure! Needless to say it is sensational and a must do for solid grade 23 leaders, and can be done in one mega-pitch).

1. 30m Start up the obvious R facing corner in the very centre of the wall (crux), then climb diagonally L up the wall to the start of the arête. Up steeply to stance on L.

2. 30m, 21. Straight up arête, trending R, then finishing back L at the top.

THE line of the cave. Power Endurance.

Classy face climbing.

Supposed to be very good

Start: Towards the L end of the main wall is a steep right leaning diagonal crack-line leading up to a prominent hanging buttress, right of a major corner capped by a large roof.

1. 20m (19) 1) 20m (crux) Climb a steep R-leaning diagonal crack, then swing around the arête and up to belay stance on sloping ledge.

2. 30m (17) Climb straight up the line to the hanging buttress and up the corner on its right side (mind loose rock)

3. 10m (19) Step left from belay and up bouldery wall to top (poor pro)

Despite the crux being very run-out, James is reported to have declared this 'the best new route we have ever done'.

Start: Start as for 'Bowled Out'.

Start: Start at the base of 'Leaner'

1. 30m (22) Follow the traverse line left to the arete. Up the arete past a bolt (hard to clip) to ledge and bolts. The original poor bolts have been replaced.

2. 20m (22) Move right into "Leaner" and go up 2 metres. Now go out right onto the overhung arete, passing a fixed wire, or not, as the case may be.

Originally required extensive cleaning and sieging.

Choss. Like climbing the worst sea cliff in Sydney. Not sure why Malcolm did this?!

Hotter than the 'Sahara'. Starts just R of 'Patagonia' at L edge of giant boulder. Either long ropes or a short first pitch would avoid the need for second and leader climbing simultaneously. Up the juggy crack to a seam, The wall is now climbed direct, veering slightly R at half height to a knee bar at the overlap. Step L and continue up the upper wall to the top, crossing Patagonia's original second pitch traverse on the way.

The easy central section of the main wall, 25m L of Glasnost, offers pleasant climbing. Pro is spaced on the first pitch. 1) 30m The groove system below the major corner is climbed to a belay on the R wall. 2) 30m Traverse R to the obvious cracked arête. Up crack easily to overhang near the top. Up L side of overhang, then step airily R to finish up short corner.

Neil raved about this one long into the night...

A sustained and direct line straight up the face right of 'Kava Boy'. The second pitch is like an easier version of 'Archimedes Principle'.

1. 20m (22) 1) 20m 22 – Up left facing flake crack for a few meters and step left (BR) to gain seam crack. Up this crack which turns briefly into a runnel (#3 SLCD) to second BR and reachy move to gain continuation of cracks. Belay at same stance as end of 'Kava Boy' pitch one.

2. 30m (22) Up 'Kava Boy' for 5m then step right 3m onto the unlikely cracked face. Up this for 8m to horizontal weakness, dogleg right then left (crux) then continue up the amazing wall (between the two corners) to belay on ledge at end of 'Kava Boy' pitch 2. Bring lots of wires for this pitch

3. -m (12) The 'Scramble off right' for 'Karenina', 'Seiging Babylon' and 'Brave New World' is recommended as roped climbing rather than scrambling as it's very exposed and perhaps grade 12. From this exit point walk off as for all other main wall routes.

Sporty incuts up a sustained face, then exciting trad climbing up a steep weakness. Starts about 8m right of 'Wings of Desire' and 3m left of 'Trust'. Traverse left across pocketed wall (two FHs) then up the face above past horizontal break (cams) and onto face proper. Edge for pleasure on sideways sloping rails (three FHs) to crux move right into seam crack. Up this crack with a dogleg left past a huge fang for 20m to top trad belay. Full trad rack to #2 SLCD required.

1. 20m Up arete and step L into L facing corner then diagonally L up steep wall to join 'Quick Draw McGraw' at belay ledge. 2) 35m Up rotten corner to top (or last pitch of 'Quick' Draw McGraw).

Start: Start 12m along from L end of undercut section.

The L of the two obvious cracks just around L of 'Bowled Out'. Climb the crack for about 10m. Traverse easily L to finish up the arête. Abseil off.

Start directly below the 'bowl'. 1) 45m Climb up into the foot of the 'bowl' then avoid major difficulty and lack of protection by skirting up and left around the 'bowl'. 2) 20m Up easily.

The attractive crack 15 metres right of "Suspended Animation".

The superb thin crack snaking up the left side of the wall.

The chimney.

Start: The large right facing corner left of "Kava Boy"

Takes second corner crack to the right of 'Kava Boy'. As for 'Far Horizons' to belay ledge, continue for a few meters up short clean corner, step left to base of crack. Up corner crack to belay on terrace. Rope scramble off right.

Sustained jamming up a beautiful diagonal crack on smooth rock.

Up middle seam right of "Some Like It Hot". Follow grassy, right-leading crack, then up.

Wildly overhanging corner right of the silver screen. Rarely repeated. Might need a new bolt.

The second pitch was first led in driving rain. A variant on 'Wallscrawl'.

People who climb chimneys probably shoot foxes too.

Blunt arete with 2 fixed hangers left of "The Bounty Hunter" ? which is where?

Up the small corner through a bulge, step right and continue up the next line.

Start: Start 5 metres right of a wide corner.

A high-quality route. Start 15m R of Bubbles of Fantasy. 1) 25m (18) Up large L-facing corner then main wall, passing a small R-facing corner. At its top, step L, then diagonally R to orange sickle. Up jugs and R-facing corner to belay on ledge. 2) 25m (crux) L-facing corner to roof, boldly through this (#3.5 cam at lip), then up and diagonally L to rest on arete (fixed wire). Up, step L and up wall, finishing through bulge on L.

Just another stunner

An ambitious program to overcome the economic crisis in the Soviet Union by means of transition into market economy. Also relates to how much time we seem to be spending at this amazing crag.

1. 25m (21) Climb Glasnost past FH (crux) to flake. Up flake for a few moves, place high nut/cam then delicate traverse left across flake to belay at ledge below flakes / corner system.

2. 20m (19) Climb steep flake corner (bold), over bulge and straight up to semi hanging belay at base of scooped upper wall (right of upper trench/crack of Far Horizons).

3. 20m (17) Climb middle of scooped slabby wall 3-5m right of 'Far Horizons' tending right, gain RH hand traverse, find hidden holds to escape (up) before arête. Straight up to belay on top.

Black slab on right side of dark gully around left of "Hang Me High"

Link up minimal tech into loose cannon.

Quality easy climb lurking in HB territory.

Up the overhanging chimney-corner 5 metres right of "Fox Tail" then head left at the roof, finishing as for "Fox Tail"

Nice thin grey face situated on block near the top of "Jungle Gym".

Up line to arete, follow the arete to the horizontal break, traverse left (continuing up arete from break is grade 14) then to top.

Start: Start at the diagonal 2 metres from the left arete of the little wall..

Takes the prominent corner crack system 15m right of 'Bliss'. The start is marked by a leaning Eucalypt. Up a short arete passing 2 FH's before gaining a delightful series of cracks and corners. Step left near the top to finish up the pleasant final crack.Walk over and rap off as for "Bliss"

Corner crack that ends at old rusty carrot.

Instead of traversing left and joining up with 'Storm' In A D-Cup at 15m keep climbing the face directly above, eventually heading slightly right up short diagonal flake to top. Makes the route a lot more sustained.

Slab, then overhanging face.

Start: Start at slab opposite "Hot,Salty,Sticky,Yum"

Great but both pitches are bold and require drive.

Start: Start right of the huge wall, where a smooth wall rises out of the forest.

1. 60m (21) Step onto wall from a boulder on the right and climb the vague prow on excellent rock. When things ease, move left and up to belay.

2. 40m (21) Step left and up another vague prow in the wall until a right-leaning flake-line leads up to the roof-line. Ste left at roof then climb around it at its narrowest point. Move right on the brink of the roof, then up headwall past right side of upper roof-line.

???? Needs checking

Start: Start as for "Warwick's Wafflecone"

Climb the initial wall of 'Synthetic Venetian'. At the crack traverse left to the base of the prominent crackline right of 'The Iron Curtain'. Before the crack closes make a rising leftwards traverse (keeping below some loose rock) and then continue straight up slab (crux) and over roof passing 4 bolts to a rap station.

Start: Start as for 'Synthetic Venetian'.

This route takes an obvious crack through a roof 4m off the ground a few metres L of 'Homework'. 1) 18m Up through the roof (crux) to a ledge. Traverse L to belay in a small cave. 2) 20m Traverse out R from cave, and up R-ward leading flake/crack to ledge. 3) 15m Up on jugs to the top.

The open-book crescent. Directly up off the block (RPs and other wires) to base of crescent. Move L past BR then back R above roof.

Worthless. Start off big block against cliff.

1. 20m (18) Start up 'Kava Boy' but where it ducks out right, head straight up the arete via a tricky move. Follow arete for a few more metres, then climb straight up face until you get to a ledge just right of the arete.

2. 30m (17) From ledge head up face above, trending rightwards, until you hit the diagonal crack heading out of 'Kava Boy' (Propaganda), follow this up to corner. In corner, place high cam then step right and blast up on jugs in an exposed position, then up crack, past little slab, moving right up final slabby headwall.

A major line at the left end of the cliff. The start is undercut by a cave.

1. 30m From bottom R toe of the wall, climb intermittent, diagonal crack system up wall to above small, friable cave. Veer L up wall on vague dyke below base of large cave. HB where rising dyke meets major horizontal dyke. 2) 50m (crux) Traverse L across wall along dyke to HB on L arete of face. 3-4) 65m As for 'Whipping Boy'.

Climb the corner until able to bridge through the hole.

Start: Start under the boulder right of "Violet Crumble"

The first line R of the R descent gully angles slightly to the R.

1. 30m Go up the wall to the crack, and curves up L to the main line. Follow this to a ledge on the L before a flaky section.

2. 20m Continue up line on suspect rock and then more easily

Airy traverse. May be a little easier if you are shorter than 5'9" / 170cm

1. 25m (16) As for Citizen Cane to ledge belay. Take lots of wires.

2. 25m (22) Up the fantastic steep juggy corner of 'Wings of Desire' , through right side of roof. Traverse the lip of the roof left (good medium cams, but way pumpy to place) for around 5-6m to open book corner. Wide steep bridging on good holds. Left under small roof to big ledge belay. Roped scramble off left (approx 15m), then over to either the abseil station above Citizin Cane or the 'Main Wall' abseil station.

A strong natural line but a bit chossy in the middle.

Start: The hanging left facing corner in the centre of the crag, where the walk-in track meets the cliff, and about 10m R of PFoD.

Takes the smooth convex wall left of "Don Quixote", starting by the shady gum tree.

1. 55m (23) Delicately past bolt at 6 metres then step right to good nut. Up and slightly leftward until the climbing eases. Tend rightward up beautiful rock to an incut ledge.

2. 20m (-) Up thin vertical crack directly above belay, with a slight detour via a flake on the left. Finish via a cave under the summit roof (as led) or straight up the overhanging white cleft (as seconded).

Not positively located

A brilliant and well-protected climb.

Start: Start as for 'The Cold War'.

1. 25m (23) Climb corner, then step left onto wall and directly above rock 'fin' to gain crack. Climb this to belay at horizontal break.

2. 27m (24) Continue up shallow corner (crux) and exit onto wall above. Step right into corner system and follow this up. Beneath the overlap avoid pulling on the loose block; you'll need it to stand on! Gear: Wires, small and medium cams up to 1 camalot. (Note: This took around 5 months of solid attempts to bag the 1st ascent. A very dedicated leader rightly got his glorious prize after much hard work). DBB/Rings

Step up R off block (RPs), then up (BR, FH), to join 'The Pillow Book' at base of crescent. Step R and up R side of arête (BR) to top.

Pull into corner then climb the centre of the juggy right wall.

Start: Left again is another big undercut corner.

above "Let Sleeping Buffalo's lie" is an obvious (very) steep crack, which cuts left across a huge roof. There are some bolt runners above the roof. There is also a very handy rap station at the top of the route which is also useful for 'Kava Boy', and "Karenina". Just be careful when stepping down to it!

1. 35m Start as for 'Sahara' but traverse L across steep wall where 'Sahara' veers R. Through friable section, then up to wall between 'Mother Superior' and 'Sahara'. Face, then vague runnel at 15m, wall. HB at dyke. 2) 25m Directly up wall until it eases, then veer L to meet 'Whipping Boy' at weakness in head-wall. 3) Roped scrambling to top.

A minor addition. Quaint climbing up the arête R of (Baxter’s route and other crack). Just enough gear down low.

Pull onto wall at right-hand end of overhanging section and go up, veering left.

Start: Just along from and at right-angles to the right-hand end of the cave terrace is a small wall with an overhanging left side.

A grand route with solid climbing well out from runners.

Start: Start at the left end of the long ledge under the main wall, under a small flake high up.

1. 40m (24) Move up on the left, then balance delicately up right to a break. Move right then precariously up to the next break. Traverse back left then straight up to the flake. Step left at top of flake and boldly up wall above to stance.

2. 30m (-) Up, then tend left up wall until able to gain right-hand end of huge horizontal block at the summit overhang. Pull over roof-line to top.

1. 15m Up main L-leading dyke to belay as for 'Arrows of Desire'. 2) 40m Straight up to the R end of first little roof on 'Arrows of Desire'. Move R to easier ground, then head diagonally up L to finish on prow.

Corner left of "The Radgel" past BR to falkes to "Norton Is For Nancy's

An easier "Romancing Times"

Start: Start at the left-hand side of the west face of Beer Can Rock.

Apparently cool gritstone climbing. Haven't been able to find a description so location is guesswork.

The seam at the right end of the face.

A solid route in an excellent position on great rock.

1. 25m Up vertical crack in wall about 15m L of the Cold War. Balance up past BR and up to a flake. Pull up L on to ledge. Climb overhanging wall just R of orange streak (crux) to a belay stance.

2. 25m Follow crack-line up shallow concave wall (prominent feature). At the top, move R and up to jugs.