Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Trad | |||||||||
16 | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | Mon 26th Jan 2004 | |||||
16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | 2004 | ||||
Great heady first pitch
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16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Tue 22nd Jul 2008 | ||||
16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Apr 2007 | ||||
think we did the g17 variant
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16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | Sun 25th Nov 2007 | |||||
16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Jul 2006 | ||||
I ended up too far to the right and too far without gear at the start of this climb!
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16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★ Good | Thu 1st Sep 2005 | ||||
16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Nov 2007 | ||||
16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Jun 2003 | ||||
with MickyB and Dude
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16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sat 17th Apr 2010 | ||||
probably best as one long pitch
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16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sat 1st Jan 2011 | ||||
With Laura and Andrew. First pitch felt more like 18. Not much gear. I may have strayed away from the line. Second pitch is nice.
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16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Apr 2013 | ||||
Onsight P1 and most of P2 (linked). Second clean the last 15m of pitch 2. Pretty good, but quite tricky for the grade if you follow the crack system the whole way, and the gear is rather widely spaced. Good climbing, but despite the grade I wouldn't recommend this as a beginner lead.
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16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny - with Max | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | Tue 27th Sep 2016 | |||||
16 |
★★ Clandestiny
- with
Adrian Kladnig
1
lead by
Adrian
2
lead by
Max
| 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Sep 2016 | ||||
16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★ Good | Fri 2nd Jun 2017 | ||||
Great flowing second pitch.
First and third pitch blergh.
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16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Apr 2010 | ||||
16 | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | Sat 5th Dec 2020 | |||||
16 R | ★★ Clandestiny - with ben, dave | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Apr 2023 | ||||
P1 a little gnarly with minimal pro for first 10m or so.
P2 was great and P3 less so. Nice trad multi to get me back in the game
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22 | ★★ Poltergeist | 48m, 1 | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★ Poltergeist | 48m, 1 | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sat 5th May 2012 | ||||
Would feel a bit ghostly leading it, sparsish gear and black moss
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19 | ★ Red Disc | 93m | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Blood on the Moon | 75m | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Kaputar | Tue 25th Mar 2008 | |||||
Solid little number. not too unsolid rock either.
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21 | ★★★ Blood on the Moon | 75m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Wed 25th Sep 2002 | ||||
fantastic gymnastics
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17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | 2004 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Blood on the Moon | 75m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Sep 2005 | ||||
20 | ★★ Tigger (is Unbounced) | 93m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Sep 2005 | ||||
16 | ★ Bottled Neat | 53m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Apr 2000 | ||||
I heard spikey vines are growing on the 2nd pitch now making this decidely unpleasant, but it was super good when I did it in '00.
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17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Apr 2007 | ||||
great consistent/varied climbing
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17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Blood on the Moon | 75m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Tue 22nd Jul 2008 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Blood on the Moon | 75m | Kaputar | Thu 1st Feb 2001 | |||||
Interesting! Scary in the wet!
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17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sun 31st Mar 2002 | ||||
Dave started up P1 & I 2nd, Dennis & Jenny came up. I lead up P2, with Dennis belaying me & Dave belaying Jen up P1, but they bailed when they realised it was too late in the day. Dave lead P3 & topped out just as the sun went down, leaving me to climb it in the dark. I had to leave one piece of gear consequently which we collected the next day. P1 is a bit full on, but all up a nice climb.
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16 | ★ Bottled Neat | 53m | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★ Bottled Neat | 53m | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Blood on the Moon | 75m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Sep 2007 | ||||
p 1 * ,the rest ok,fell on p1
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17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Blood on the Moon | 75m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Sep 2007 | ||||
Techy bottom pitch. Hold blew on the crux, take prussicks
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21 | FA ★★★ The Recidivist Direct | 90m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st May 1981 | ||||
17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Apr 2012 | ||||
With Graham. Three pitches of consistently interesting climbing. Great gear the whole way.
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19 | ★ Smike | 83m | Kaputar | Average | Sat 5th May 2012 | ||||
Sun went down at mid belay. Scared, scarred, loose blocks, vegetation and moss. It had it all.
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17 | ★★ Guided Missile - with Dave | 80m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Tue 23rd Oct 2012 | ||||
First pitch only - started to rain
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20 | ★★ Borrowed Time | 90m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Oct 2012 | ||||
Led P1 and P3. Dave P2. First pitch really good. Others OK, worth doing for sure.
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19 | FA ★ Pure and Simple | 70m | Kaputar | ★ Good | 1979 | ||||
21 | FA ★★★ Blood on the Moon - with Jim N | 75m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | 1979 | ||||
20 | FA ★★ Air Raid - with Brian | 80m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | 1977 | ||||
Park staff spotted us from a helicopter and a short time afterwards ordered us off the cliff. Climber / Park Staff negotiations took place that evening (thanks to Joe Friend), the ban was lifted and we completed the climb the next day.
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18 | FA Acid Drop | 60m | Kaputar | 1977 | |||||
18 | FA ★ Shake, Rattle and Roll - with Brian | 53m | Kaputar | ★ Good | 1979 | ||||
16 | FA ★ Bottled Neat | 53m | Kaputar | ★ Good | 1976 | ||||
18 | FA ★★ The Real McCoy - with Kevin | 85m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | 1982 | ||||
22 | FA ★★ Gun Control - with Richard | 80m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | 1981 | ||||
24 | FA ★★ The Millionaire Touch - with Kevin and Paul | 100m | Kaputar | 1982 | |||||
Tight rope seconding the crux!
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22 | FA ★ The Promised Land - with Kevin | 96m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | 1982 | ||||
20 | FA ★★ Tigger (is Unbounced) - with Jim G | 93m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | 1976 | ||||
17 | FA ★★ Guided Missile - with Jim G | 80m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | 1976 | ||||
20 | FA ★★ Borrowed Time - with Brian | 90m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | 1977 | ||||
18 | FA ★★ Pooh Invents a New Game - with Jim G | 93m | Kaputar | ★ Good | 1976 | ||||
19 | FA ★ Red Disc - with Jim G | 93m | Kaputar | ★ Good | 1976 | ||||
21 | FA ★★★ Micawber - with Brian | 77m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | 1977 | ||||
19 | FA ★ Smike - with Brian | 83m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | 1979 | ||||
19 | FA ★ Our Man in Nirvana - with Richard | 55m | Kaputar | ★ Good | 1986 | ||||
21 | ★★★ The Recidivist Direct | 90m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Apr 2013 | ||||
A VERY demanding line. Has this had a repeat? We broke the 2nd pitch into 2 halves via a fully hanging belay after running out of small gear. P1 - Onsight, P2 - Tick (could be a flash). P3 - Second Clean. The first pitch is tricky, the second pitch is nails, could easily be a 23. Sustained, tenuous, desperate, with spaced gear of marginal quality through all the hardest moves. My partner took a massive gear ripping fall, so I ended up leading it with much terror. Classic, but monstrous.
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19 | ★ Smike - with Richard | 83m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Dec 2013 | ||||
Great line, I found the start of the second pitch to be the crux. It went a little easier after some choss removal.
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20 | ★★ Tigger (is Unbounced) - with Richard | 93m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Dec 2013 | ||||
A fantastic route with solid jams where you need them. The roof on the 1st pitch requires a tricky/committing mantle but a couple of cams below is good for morale. There's a runner fixed to a shrub at the first belay and some good pro to back it up. Three quarters up the 2nd is a chossy corner but you can navigate this without too much trouble. Top of the 3rd you can break left or follow the interesting obvious line which ends abruptly in an undercling, offering one last challenge to the climb
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20 | ★★ Tigger (is Unbounced) | 93m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Dec 2013 | ||||
My younger (and much fitter) self caught up with me on this one and bit me on the bum! Redeemed myself slightly by getting up the final pitch in slightly better style.
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19 | ★ Smike | 83m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Dec 2013 | ||||
Got a shock when Ben turned nasty and threw a shoebox-sized block at me while doing a one-handed layback at the start of pitch 2.
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21 | ★★★ Blood on the Moon | 75m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Apr 2014 | ||||
With Neil. Stoked, this was one of my goals for the trip. P1 - Onsight. P2 - 2nd Clean. P3 - Onsight. The first pitch is the money on this one. Nice thin slabbing with very thin, spaced (dubious?) gear to gain the roof, then committing technical climbing up and around the roofs. An amazing number of moves are necessary to do this with finesse. The "bold-ish" traverse left at the end is memorable! P2 and P3 are both quite good with good pro and interesting moves.
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21 | ★★★ Micawber | 77m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Apr 2014 | ||||
With Neil. Brilliant and demanding! P1 - 2nd Clean. P2 - Onsight. Pitch 1 is as good as The Recidivist Direct (P2), but probably less dangerous. Enjoyable climbing to gain the stemming corner, then stemming bliss up impossible blankness on bomber rock. Wild and improbably moves to gain the steep crack, then pumpy, strenuous jamming to the top. Wild! Pitch 2 is pleasant and very pure "trad" up a corner/gully with some real moves to make it worthwhile.
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21 | ★★★ Micawber - with Richard Curtis | 77m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Jun 2015 | ||||
A very inspiring climb. This route has it all, and yes, pro just when you need it. The first pitch is sustained and absolutely golden. The second pitch is enjoyable climbing and allows you a bit of recovery from the first. Richard just cruised up the bloody route a silly amount of years after he did the first ascent.
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16 |
★ Bottled Neat
1
15
lead by
Richard
2
16
lead by
Carol
| 53m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Tue 6th Oct 2015 | ||||
Perhaps the crux at the start of pitch 2 deserves 17 (delicate and airy). The 'spiky vines' mentioned by someone else at the start of the final crack are not spiky and are avoided by stepping onto the easy right wall.
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17 | ★★ Guided Missile - with Alan Ezzy, Brendan Heywood | 80m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Jun 2016 | ||||
The Governor delivers again. A quality climb. I led the first, good pro, nice overlaps to a series of weathered anchor slings around an Olearia shrub (collectively pretty solid - still added my own). Skip skillfully led the delicate second (a little shattered), before Al brought us home on the third, another quality pitch. Good times!
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17 | ★★ Guided Missile - with Ben Vincent, Alan Ezzy | 80m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jun 2016 | ||||
I lead 2nd pitch, scary looking collapsed column to climb through
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18 | ★★ The Real McCoy - with carol lee | 85m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st May 2017 | ||||
After a couple of days of heavy rain the rock was surprisingly wet. Not the most elegant of starts. P1 - lead (Red Point). Spooged-off above the second ring bolt of the traverse. Some hard-loved chalk nads and my game face got me through the wet hold section. Interesting first pitch. P2 - second (clean). Nice confident lead up corner by Caz, rock was drier here. A better pitch than the 1st. P3 - lead (clean). Really enjoyed the overlap. This was my pick of the pitches with TRM getting better with elevation.
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21 | ★★★ Blood on the Moon - with carol lee | 75m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Mon 22nd May 2017 | ||||
Was a little intimidated about getting on this one but so stoked that we did. P1 - lead (clean). Best pitch I've done at Kaputar to date. Nice sporty slab to warm into the route, pro gets a little spaced above. The upper section and traverse are committing, exposed, gripping and memorable! Some damp holds at the end of the T added some extra spice. Added a cordelette to what looks like a historical collection at the first anchor. P2 and P3 - second (clean). A little bit of an anticlimax after P1. Nice lead by Caz up crack and straight through obvious goey line in buldge (which was also wet). With 60m twins Caz decided to link the last two P’s, finishing up an interesting techy little slab split by a finger crack.
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17 |
★★ Guided Missile
- with
Taib
1
lead by
Adrian
2
lead by
Taib
3
lead by
Adrian
| 80m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Sep 2017 | ||||
Fantastic first pitch.
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20 |
★★ Borrowed Time
- with
Taib
1
lead by
Taib
2
lead by
Taib
3
lead by
Adrian
| 90m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Sep 2017 | ||||
The stemming on the first pitch was just awesome. All round brilliant climbing.
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17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Kaputar | Sun 1st Apr 2018 | |||||
22 | ★★ Gun Control | 80m | Kaputar | Sat 6th Oct 2018 | |||||
17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Kaputar | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | |||||
16 | ★ Bottled Neat | 53m | Kaputar | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Micawber - with Ben Hanley | 77m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Aug 2020 | ||||
Had a complete wobbly on this one, and I wasn't even leading... Ben did an amazing job on the onsight but I got totally shutdown by the crack at the end of P1 😢 Jamming skills definitely still need a lot of work.
Didn't super enjoy the second pitch as the rock was pretty average, broke off 3 or 4 decent-sized holds. Also had to sacrifice a nut to the trad gods to top it all off. Probably a classic but not my best performance.
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21 |
★★★ Micawber
- with
Grace Mackie
| 77m | Kaputar | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 27th Aug 2020 | ||||
Absolutely mega first pitch! Felt a lot harder than some other 21's that I've done recently 😆 Onsighted both pitches on lead.
P1- fairly straightforward climbing to start with until you hit the stemming corner. Managed to find a hands-free rest partway through which helped manage the calf-pump. Found it pretty tricky getting myself out of the corner to reach out to the hand-crack. Much more strenuous crack moving than I have done in a while but got much nicer the higher I went. I think my brain was tired after this pitch because I rigged one of my least comfortable bays ever... P2- pretty shitty pitch but required to top out, and pretty sure I was in the correct corner system. Quite vegetated and lots of friable rock. Breaking off 4 footholds in the first 5-10m certainly did not inspire much confidence. |
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17 | ★★ Guided Missile - with Clive | 80m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Nov 2020 | ||||
Lead all 3 pitches, 1-o/s, 2 - fall, 3 -o/s, pitch was one is a classic for the grade. Pitch 2, i was carefully climbing around the loose blocks midway up when a 100kg+ section came out completely unexpected smashing to the ground, gear was good. Pitch 3, nice climbing and gear. Pitch 2, i reclimbed the section after the fall, now that block has falled out its a little more secure, but care is needed.
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20 | ★★ Tigger (is Unbounced) - with Stephen Varney | 93m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Jan 2021 | ||||
Lead both pitches. Some great moves (especially through the roof on P1, and the crack system immediately above) but just has so much crap rock on it that it's hard to just enjoy the climb. The start of P1 necessitates some caution.
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22 | ★ The Promised Land - with Stephen Varney | 96m | Kaputar | Don't Bother | Sat 16th Jan 2021 | ||||
One of the few times I've ever bailed off a trad route. After climbing 4 bodylengths above my last good gear, placing wires of hideous quality and facing rubbish rock going into the crux of P1, I flicked out my shit wires, did a dangerous and tenuous downclimb, left behind some gear and bailed.
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20 | ★★ Tigger (is Unbounced) - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 93m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Jan 2021 | ||||
Following Paul. I'm glad to not be leading this kinda thing. The moves are fun but the rock is shite
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17 | ★★ Guided Missile - with Alison Greenhalgh | 80m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Wed 21st Apr 2021 | ||||
Loose block on pitch 2 has now fallen off. All good now
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17 |
★★ Guided Missile (Guided Missile P1)
1
17
30m
| 30m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | ||||
First pitch only. Pretty good, rock quality was OK. Found the belay ledge very uncomfortable.
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16 | ★ Bottled Neat | 53m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | ||||
Little bit wandery & vegetated. Climbing was quite nice on mostly good rock.
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18 | ★★ Pooh Invents a New Game - with Clive, Ben, Court | 93m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | ||||
So I started up with the intention of doing Red Disk but soon after the crux I ended up further left than intended and would’ve have to do a sketchy traverse with little gear to get back on track, so decided to keep heading up doing pitches 2 and 3 of this route. Which was rad anyway! So all and all, good day out 🤙
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18 | ★★ Pooh Invents a New Game - with Clive, Michael Moore | 93m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Apr 2022 | ||||
First ever multi, thanks to Michael Moore for leading (and on-sighting) all pitches on this one! One of my best experiences on a rope so far. Great day out with Clive and Court as well! So chuffed I got up this this thing without falling or resting. Second pitch off-width grovel made my day!
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17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Kaputar | Don't Bother | Thu 6th Apr 2023 | ||||
Rpt first pitch which is not too bad and worth doing but suggest abseil off tree. The loose blocks on P2 are still there and it was an unpleasant experience. P 3 ok. Going don’t bother because it’s a potentially dangerous route at present
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21 | ★★★ Micawber - with Luke Hef | 77m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | ||||
Led this in one pitch, really fun stemming most of the way, a small section swimming of amazing hand jams.
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21 | ★★★ Blood on the Moon - with Luke Hef | 75m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | ||||
Wow... talk about a heady climb, this one will keep your resume honest on the onsight!
Absolutely stella climbing 👌... will have to come back for the full tick as we found lower off slings at the top of the first pitch, decided to taste test other things.
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17 | ★★ Sunset Strip | 60m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Mar 2008 | ||||
1st pinnacle social trip
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19 | ★★★ Sago Entrée | 75m | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
10 | Learner's Permit | 50m | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★★ Sunset Strip | 60m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Apr 2002 | ||||
I lead up P1 which has this really cool start through a hole/chimney. P2 isn't much of anything.
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