Routes as trad in Waterfall

Starts on buttress at right hand end of sector. Stick clip high bolt to protect bouldery start, then up slightly right into thin crack that takes small gear to finger size. DBB as for arete on left, or belay on slab and finish up NCM pitch 2.

south facing corner at start of waterfall sector. Up short pedestal then through fern into sickle shaped crack. Continue up finger crack then up leftwards to top.

Up flake to DBB in middle of wall.

Orange wall with small column to roof where you head left to DBB. #1, #0.75 cams under roof

Seam 3 m left of big roof, stick clip high first bolt. Offset wire blue DMM, #0.75 cam and micro cam needed before crack closes. Continue up groove through small roof up high

The stepped appearing crack just left of a pillar of stacked blocks, and 4 m right of Arete. Good gear throughout RPs to #3. At half height the angle eases and vegetation increases. Trend left to top via a slabby hand crack. Trad belay. Alternatively at 15 m, traverse 3m left to anchors and abseil.

The shortish corner left of arete to shared anchors. A set of micro cams and 0.75, 1 and #2 cams suffice.

Stemming groove to finger/hand crack, just right of Fools Gold. #0.25 cam break between 2nd and 3rd bolts, finger to hand size gear to the top

The right sided dihedral of the big black buttress. A set of small to medium cams needed with 5 FHs to DBB over top. Abseil off.

The stemming groove up the left side of the Black Buttress. Full set of C3s and small to medium wires on the right wall supplement bolts

Start off block left of pillar leaning against wall as for LT. Up Past bolt to gain finger crack that continues up from the top of the pillar to share anchors with LT. Gear to #1. Lots of small cams.

Start from top of block just left of large pillar that is leaning on main wall. Good 0.75 in undercling to left, then step left into thin seam that runs up blunt arête. A set of TCUs and cams to 0.75 and a good medium wire. DRBB

The next open book corner right of Meritorious. Has chain anchors at top. Scarce gear in middle section. Probably done by Anthony Brennan. Brushed in 2019

Up onto block then up black water streak past 3 very spaced bolts. Cleaning may unearth some more trad placements but options seem minimal. Start just past the watercourse 100 m before Beat on the Brat and 5 m right of Meritorious. Old chains and Biner below top.

Start as for UTCB but climb pillar to left side of roof then up thin crack and arete on hanging buttress via a currently rusty old bolt and good small wires

Surmount pyramidal blocks to the left of chopping block then up face passing to bolts to small alcove under roof, continue up face passing two more bolts to DBB. Small wires and cams to #1 To supplement bolts essential

Technical stemming corner past 2 bolts to the widening crack, taking everything from a 00 C3 to a #4 Camalot, step right to anchors as for Ponzie Scheme

Start 2 m right of the stepped low roofs at a sinuous line that heads up the right side of the inset pillar. Step a bit left to place a runner in the roof crack of D if needed. Chimney at top. Gear to # 5. Trad belay.

Start in corner at stepped low roofs. If nervous about the large hanging block go direct at same grade. Go through second roof into finger crack that widens to body crack up left side of inset pillar. Head left onto ledge, step left a metre and finish up short chimney. Trad belay

Start at mid point of roofs, 3m left of Dekaputation below finger to hand rack with undercut start. After pulling hard start, the climb relents to a fun grade 12 on great rock. No anchors at present.