Ascents in First Basin to Duck Reach

Kinda messy line. Worth doing if you are in the area, I suppose.

Enjoyable. The crack is great. So is the face. The very top move feels really hard for the grade (but very well protected). I might be missing some important beta.

Only about 6m of actual climbing, but it's quality climbing! #3 or #4 cam for the break

First time actually managing all the moves!

Dropped the onsight but got it second burn

One to back and lead

One of the best hidings I've had in a while!! Can't believe there is no hype about this - bloody Stella! I've given it 24 but think it may be harder when comparing to Damnit for instance. Went ground up placing gear on all attempts, strenuous gear placements but bomber! Ripper!

Ripper!! Worked out the gear on top rope because it's fairly intense placing if you have to faff. At least with my beta. On top rope, 23, but I feel like it has to be 24 on lead. 3 stars because it is full value, good gear but difficult to place which added to the puzzle. Finding a sequence that works down low was fun! Commiting moves on good gear (can be a little tricky to find.). Great exposed finish. So good - do not underestimate it though!

Not sure how it's meant to finish but went into the roof, got some good gear and then cut straight left and up to the anchors. Not a great line for the rope, runs over a sharp edge. Potentially can go straight up as well but would be a fair bit harder. Recommend heading left a little lower then finish as for Root and Kill. Good fun though!!

Easy climbing up a teetering pile of dodgy looking blocks that are mostly held in by magic, topped off with a bizarrely placed anchor in a big loose boulder balanced on top of lots of smaller loose stuff. The Allodynia anchor is placed in the same loose boulder....Ok I guess, but not really recommended.

Putting a rope up for Emily and Laura. Nice enough climbing but watch out for the rope chopping flake.

More or less onsight. Draws placed on the bolts on rap. Phil told me it was 22 so I was surprised to find it relatively easy. Bit of a one move wonder, but good, well, protected climbing. Done on the day the Shady side caught fire.

Managed the slippery trad cracks at the bottom ok but as usual I was stymied by the bolt protected face climbing. After falling onto the bolt a few times I bailed. No way that move is 18. Phil cruised it.

22? Dave and I spent an hour working on it and couldn't figure out the lower crux section. Maybe something has broken off? Or we suck even worse than we thought.

Worked out the moves using Baz's beta. Apparently it does go left to the arete. Very shoulder intensive move at the crux that made me worry about tearing something again if my foot slipped. Bolting seems weird. Cool climbing, but probably not worth the risk of injury.

So we could get a rope on Allodynia. Loose.

Gave myself a good thrashing on this with Nate. Eventually worked it all out. Will be back for the clean lead for sure. Super fun campus traversing, smearing, toe hooking, heel hooking, finished off with a difficult span/mantle thing at the end. Maximum value for such a short route.

Feeling weak and useless today. Still recovering from the session on Orient Express the day before. Couldn't even stick the moves between the first two bolts. Isaac cleaned it up second shot.

Belayed Isaac and watching him climb into dangerous ground fall territory helped make up my mind that I don't need to lead this one. A fall from the horizontal break would be very bad. Hot and tired tonight. Barely dragged my carcass up it on top rope.

A couple of burns with Nate. Worked out a better sequence, but the toe hooks were upsetting the flakey hip flexor.

First time back in a while.

Closest shot yet. Got all the way to the slopey jug at the third bolt but peeled off trying to reach the arete.

Made it to the slopey jug again but got the rope behind my elbow. Off again. Getting closer.

Warmup and getting the draws on.

Sendage.

Unsend. Turns out that a month of climbing big walls followed by six weeks of sitting on your arse eating custard is not a good way to maintain finger strength.

Unique face climbing for the gorge

Pretty tough and gear fiddly off the ground. Interesting gorge number worth visiting

First clean lead at the grade, had two pre placed cams at the start

A little tricky