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Routes as trad in Lady Midnight Buttress

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Showing all 13 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23
23 Arc of Joan

FA: Mike MCowan, Roxanne Wells & Danny Ng, 1989

Mixed trad 12m, 1
22
22 Consultation

FA: Simon Parsons, 1982

Trad 12m
21
21 Joan of Arc

Abseil from the big shea-oak tree on the ledge to a small platform right at water level. Thin finger crack through a small roof, followed by a short section of offwidth and steep hand crack. DBB

FA: Ian Thomas, Neale Smith & Robert McMahon, 1980

Trad 12m
20
20 A Thousand Shades of Darkness

Rappel from anchor located at the base of dreams of Broken Glass (down and right of lady midnight). Rappel to hanging belay. Climb out the shallow corner finger crack. Best done at low tide.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Jacob Dean, 12 Sep 2022

Trad 9m
18
18 Once Again

FA: Neale Smith & Robert McMahon, 1982

Trad 10m
17
17 Whore of Babylon

FA: Robert McMahon & Ian Thomas, 1980

Trad 10m
17 Italian Way

FA: Robert McMahon & Hans Mohler, 1982

Trad 10m
17 Italian Club

A novel mini-adventure route. Abseil from trees below the small cave on the upper tier to water level. Set up a hanging belay with your toes an inch or two above the water, pull the rope down without dropping it in the river, then climb the hand crack back to the ledge.

FA: Robert McMahon & Hans Mohler, 1982

Trad 10m
17 Lady Midnight

Obvious flake crack on the right hand end of the buttress. DBB at top.

Trad 10m
17 Veiled Flesh
Trad 6m
16
16 Skylight
Trad 6m
15
15 Devil's Food
Trad 5m
14
14 The Stain
Trad 7m

Showing all 13 routes.

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