Ascents in Allodynia Buttress Area

Climbed this as a sport route, stick clipped 4 draws linked from 3rd bolt

Unique face climbing for the gorge

One to back and lead

First time actually managing all the moves!

Absolutely nails move to get to first bolt. Tried lots of ways to move off it but couldn't quite manage it today. From the first bolt it's lovely insecure climbing to the anchor.

Absolutely pearler of a line. Good holds and better movement the whole way. Had a 120cm sling on the 3rd bolt to keep things sane

Had a double length runner pre-placed on the third bolt to keep things sane. Some funky unlikely movement.

Repeat

Finally put it too bed

Repeat

Yewww! Possibly the worst style I’ve shown on this climb in a while, but I got it. Stoked!

Too chicken to lead it today, but pretty comfortable with the spicy section now. Next time

Punted off the top after turning on cruise control for the Red point

Pinged off from getting to the second bolt re learning the beta

Lap on TR felt good getting to the 2nd bolt felt pretty low percentage for me tonight

Pinged off after clipping second bolt again, need to work out more efficient position... lowered down and got the whole lot clean again with second bolt pre clipped

Not much to say about this one

Went for the onsight with gear beta of 0.3 in horizontal for a sanity saver, stuck crux move to arete but for popped, bit of a mind melter from 2nd to third bolt can makes a world of difference

Rested and went again getting it clean on TR will give it a red point burn next time I'm out there

Went out there with the intention to lead it. Did 6 laps clean on TR but by the time I was comfortable enough to think about leading it, I was too tired to pull it off. Grr. As always, cursing myself for being too chicken

Stupid foot slip after the crux. Rap in pre climb and put an extender on 3rd bolt or risk hitting the deck. Really cool long sequences

First burn to figure out sequences. Hard to read initially.

Super fun

Belayed Isaac and watching him climb into dangerous ground fall territory helped make up my mind that I don't need to lead this one. A fall from the horizontal break would be very bad. Hot and tired tonight. Barely dragged my carcass up it on top rope.

So we could get a rope on Allodynia. Loose.

Worked out the moves using Baz's beta. Apparently it does go left to the arete. Very shoulder intensive move at the crux that made me worry about tearing something again if my foot slipped. Bolting seems weird. Cool climbing, but probably not worth the risk of injury.

Good fun little warm up climb, Wish i had saved a big cam for the top.

Middle section seems to be missing hold for a 22, a ended up moving left to the arete before moving back onto the face, fun but reachy! Bolts seem very spread out on the crux section.

22? Dave and I spent an hour working on it and couldn't figure out the lower crux section. Maybe something has broken off? Or we suck even worse than we thought.

Easy climbing up a teetering pile of dodgy looking blocks that are mostly held in by magic, topped off with a bizarrely placed anchor in a big loose boulder balanced on top of lots of smaller loose stuff. The Allodynia anchor is placed in the same loose boulder....Ok I guess, but not really recommended.