Ascents in New South Wales and ACT by Justine Jenkins having trad-cpr or ascent-date

This route was wild. I def could have brought a hell of a lot more gear (2s and 3s for the first pitch). We only did about half of pitch 2, but it was nails and could use a bit of gardening. I will def come back and try the second pitch again.

This line was awesome! It was amazing to do as the sun was setting. There was a def a bit of faffing with gear choices, but I still got the onsight in the end!

I don't know if it was just the way I was feeling or the extremely spoogey conditions, but this thing felt absolutely desperate today. The entire crack and wall was damp, muddy, and coated in dirt, despite that I thought it barely rained the last few days. I rapped down this thinking, this is gonna be amazing and was astounded at how slippery and insecure the entire climb felt. I know it's grade 20, but it literally felt every bit of grade 23 at least in today's conditions. It would be interesting to revisit this when it is totally dry, but it felt like a joke at grade 20 today. I got the onsight in the end, but not really sure how. As far as gear goes, I didn't have a 5, but that would have been nice. Instead, I had 2 4's,a 3, doubles of 2-.75, 3 .5s, 4 .4s, 3 .3s, and a red and green C3. I also had a random offset alien that may have been close to a .2. I probably could have left the nuts at home but did manage to place 2 overall. I had 19 draws which seemed crazy, but I used them all in the end. This thing was epic and would be worth a revisit when dry to see if I was smoking crack today or not. All in all, a great arvo!

The second pitch was awesome, but I don't know that this climb lives up to the hype, considering pitch 2 is guarded by pitches 1 and 3. The first pitch is ok if you take lots of small wires and some C3s, the second pitch is stellar, but the last pitch is a chossy gully with basically no pro. I can't help but think that Solomon and Fer de Lance are similar, if not better climbs, if I'm being honest. They can't match the aspect of Shipley lower, but they are def at least the same quality and more accessible. It was worth doing once. We did it in two pitches, linking 2 and 3, and had a fair amount of small wires and C3s.

This is a great climb but can be quite consequential if you don't supplement it with some gear and long runners. It was nice to tick this after a hot day's attempt in full sun a few months ago.

This is going to be controversial, but this route is just not very good. It's super difficult to protect, has mega reachy carrots, and loads of ledge-fall potential. It also just doesn't have very fun movement. I honestly can't understand why it gets as many stars as it does. If you want a good 18, just go climb Interstate.

Despite bailing off of Auntie Jack onto this, it was actually a pretty great route. You need minimal gear for it in reality. The crux is figuring out what to use as an anchor to bring your second up.

Only the first pitch.

This route was as other-worldly as everyone said. I found a #6 worth bringing for the second pitch, but you should still expect a huge runnout even with it.

Only had time for the first pitch, but it was great! I can't wait to come back and do the whole thing.

Takes a good 3 or 4 above the first carrot. The moves below the first carrot are hard but you can stick clip a wire onto the carrot if you want to be protected while doing them. Quite fun!

I finally sacked up and led the second pitch of this route after seconding it a few years ago and having led the first pitch a few times. I found getting from the belay to my first piece utterly terrifying, which probably had a lot to do with being a short-ass. If you are 5'2," soloing up to the first piece of gear is nails in the sun. Staying in the vegetated crack out left and placing a 5, not that I had that, in the top of it with a 120 sling would have been the go. I guess I will know for next time...

So pumpy!!! Bring plenty of 1’s and .75’s.

Only pitch 1. Holy shit this route is nails for 18! In true Wolgan fashion I reckon' it would be a 20 in the Bluies (similar to Solomon perhaps). This commentary is only for the first pitch since that's all we did, but yeah, quite hard. I probably could have used 3 .5's as well...

Definitely slippery as in the off-width section. I almost felt like 2 6s would have been more helpful than a 5 and a 6. The roof traverse wasn't bad at all compared to the glassy off-width. We just did the first 2 pitches.

I like how no one on the crag has mentioned how heinously runnout this route is. The climbing itself is great, but the pro is R-R/X. It takes hardly any gear except for some at the very top and is retardly runnout (even for the Wolgan) in other places where there is no option for gear. I reckon it could use a few more carrots for sure. Good lead, Hugh!

I definitely sandbagged the crap out of myself by not having even close to enough 2's and 3's. I never took, but essentially climbed and down-climbed several cruxes in order to retrieve 2's and 3's so I could walk them. I think I had 4 pieces in this whole route besides a couple in the bottom horizontals. Note to self: Take 3's of 2's and 3's next time.

This route no longer has an anchor at the top, so be prepared use gear to make one at the top a fair way back from the edge. You can also sling the tree a few meters behind the crack up there to back it up if you like. It looks like previous bolts were removed from this for the anchor, but I'm not sure when this happened. In general, this route is pretty chossy and way shittier than the several routes lower down at Piddo.

Today didn't feel like the day for this. I got the carrot clipped and then really struggled at my height to place the next nut without risking a terrible ground fall. Luckily the bail onto the route next door turned out to be great. Zipper was awesome but needs an anchor. I'm just going to come out and say it, Aunty Jack needs an anchor too. The tree everyone used to use has been torched and is unreliable now and the pockets in choss are shit if you actually think your second might struggle or God forbid, you have to haul them... Other than that, this is probably a fine route.