Ascents in New South Wales and ACT as sport by Sasha

🥳🥳🥳 12-13 sessions overall between last year and this.

Had tried this before and got stuck on the big move between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Stuck it today with a little encouragement from Gabriele G 🥰 and then stuck all the other ones too 🥳 Proper crux for me is the sequence after the break. Something to aspire to!

Session #2 of sacrificing skin on this thing. High point ground to second clip stance 😅, low point last draw to anchor 😅😅. Everything feeling better than last session except crux which is still hard (and sharp)

#3. Better crux beta and possibly better beta for last hard move to pocket below lip (lower foot). Still need to try Gabriele G’s crux beta though

Session 4. Not feeling strong today but worked it the best I could. New crux beta with very high, very right and pretty marginal RF (tried to use Gabriele G’s foot here and found myself 20cm short of the landing hold on the deadpoint 🥲 so needed to decide a smeary thing above it would be my RF here). Probably have all the sequences dialled, but it’s two steps forward and one step back because Gabriele G sent and so have to place my own draws from now on 😭

First time back on it this year, relearning the moves and changing a few with some new beta from others. Feeling pretty good on it today.

Baby steps. Ground up high point hitting the LH slot thing between bolts 2 and 3 badly and not being able to move from it. Linking that move from ground feels like the hardest thing. Also linked from break to anchor (in the sun 🥵) something to feel good about 🎉

Went up to try to link ground through crux. Did it and surprised myself by climbing to 5th bolt and taking before the big move before the sideways jugs rest, a really encouraging high point. 😃 connies were also 👌 today.

Made it to what I assume is the crux (one bolt from top at the underclings, where orange rock ends and black rock begins). No idea what to do there but may have just been tired and hot. Will come back

I am quite confused from the pancake jug onwards. Have pulled into multiple random positions on the sidepulls but never figured out a way to get to the landing jug. Think if I knew the (a?) beta I could at least work on that, but as it stands it’s quite cryptic to me.

No idea what to do above 1st bolt. There’s 3 sidepulls a meter apart all in the same direction. I would need beta spoonfeeding to have any chance 😋

Sort of hate that start mantle thing, but enjoyed the relatively easy middle. Didn’t manage to figure out how to stick the LH crimp from the flat jug at second to last bolt. The low feet are too low and the high ones are too high 😅 was very tired by then though. One to try again

Thrilled to get this on 3rd go today. Low crux is really fun techy climbing. High crux is physical even with good beta, I had to crimp hard. I found that LF in bowtie hueco while RF toehooks the roof below keeps me stable in moving for the LH slot. All in all super fun route, with plenty of moves that feel great when you get them right.

Was not making the same mistake today as yesterday underestimating wet holds at the top. Two paper towels and one regular tampon were sacrificed in the making of this send. Girl power

Oh my GOD. This route was my white whale. I needed better beta. Don’t match pocket (still think I’d need to climb like 28 to do that on link) go straight to elephant ear with LH, raise feet a lot on tiny footers and go RH straight to good incut crimp (skip two finger juglet out right).

Stoked because sour grapes aside, the pocket match was a slow fiddly sequence on an otherwise awesome bouldery route. Now it is all awesome!

Got it my first ever RP go. Guess I worked the shit out of the individual pieces and sequences on previous sessions. For me the hardest part of the crux is the early bit, moving into and then off the flake to get to the first crimp. Super stoked to tick this bad boy.

Finally did all the moves on this thing. The idea of linking them all one day seems impossible but now I’m too deep in to quit!

Project shopping. Did all the moves in pretty soupy conditions so maybe? Will have to come back for another play on it sometime. Hopefully the tickmarked slimper at the crux is only seepy because La Niña and it’s not its permanent condition 🤞

Session #2. Did all the moves again, figured out clipping positions. Next time will try some links. Still feels completely unattainable 😅

Session #3. Got it down to 3 continuous links, which would be super impressive if the route wasn’t like 3m long!

Linked the headwall. Baby steps

Session #5. Not much progress this time. Still divided in two at the rest. Or should I say “rest”

Session #6. Officially giving it goes now. High point: stable on slot match, fell going for two finger juglet thing out right

Session #8. Maybe refining microbeta, most likely kidding myself. Same high point of stable(ish) on the match, falling going for the hold out right. At least I hit that high point on 2 out of 4 goes?

Session #10, still falling on horrendous slot match. So much humble pie eaten it’s no wonder I can’t send. Probably time to take a break from sieging this thing and get back to training.

Super fun. Crux after laydown rest required crimping hard for me. Will come back for it

Start to giant break at the top high point. Stoked! Then screwed up the high crux. Pulled back on and found a bicycle that makes that move so much less hard. Pretty happy with my performance, considering yesterday was a hard training session.

Very conditions dependent crux on this one. Top was wet. Is it always wet?

So many cool moves on this one. Sidepull heel hooks, a thumbdercling move on slab, there’s even a rare deep two finger pocket. Felt more flowy and less desperate than Supercal. One to come back to

Second session. Refining beta/optimising draw lengths. Didn’t hang around too much thanks to hurricane winds. Favorite beanie almost ended up down in the valley 😅

Third session. Top was a waterfall, bottom was only moist so decided to give that a go. Tried to link ground to laydown break, made it to the weird gaston move after traverse before tearing a hole in my finger. Guess it was a little too moist.

Fourth session. Good news that the top was dry. Bad news that it was harder than I remembered. New high point from ground (hit RH pocket but badly, one move from lie down rest). Also linked from rest(ish) break to anchor once but could not repeat, too tired?

5th session. One move at the top is not really getting easier with repetition while everything else is. Super frustrating as if I had 2cm more reach, could get it from a stable position. Probably not strong/tall enough for it this season.

Coming back to this nearly a year later. Can do all the moves. The crux is still doing any of them after you’ve shit your pants on the approach.

Linked to 5th bolt (whole slab plus traverse left) before remembering that I didn’t actually know how to clip the 5th. Next need to work on refining and linking 4th bolt onwards. I think slab (including crux) is fairly dialled now.

3rd session this season, 6th total. New high point I guess, fell mid boulder #3. Refined boulder #4 a lot: kneebar is a trap, better not to get into it. Need to pull hard on intermediate crimp and stand up before bumping to glory jug. Linked boulder #4 from jug after boulder #3.

First proper go of the day, fell off AFTER the glory jug because a hold was very wet. Am probably the only person to fall off this route that high up. FML :,,,)

Two doggy laps. Still pumped. Is there any rest on this thing?

Back on this after almost a year. Logging a dog even though I only worked to end of crux today. Got better beta for getting established on the sidepull undercling start of crux (thanks to friends of friends at the crag), also chose a higher foot for last hard move and found it much much easier. Nearly linked the entire crux but popped off the very last move which although it’s easier with the higher foot is still quite hard and span-y for me.

Linked rest at the bottom to end of crux. Redid the top, pumpier than I remembered.

Not prime connies today. Worked top, linked last hard move of crux to anchor.

Nice slabby sequences on marginal high feet down below, crimpy goodness on headwall. Feels like it would be quite sustained on link.

Harder today (more humid?) but got a pretty repeatable sequence leading into and including the last hard move off the white LH crimp. On the other hand the sequence before that on the sidepulls feels quite hard still.

Still so good. Low crux felt easier. High crux felt harder. Start roof boulder felt the same (nails 😅)

Super classy hardish move at second bolt. Crux is the whole traverse, but especially going RH to glued on crimp rail thingy and then matching it (and then clipping somehow? lol). Another heartbreaker move right before the cave under the anchor. So much harder than it looks from the ground. My brain will never learn that big chalk =/= big hold.

Found a way to clip the crux draw that totally won’t be desperate on link or anything like that. Not much progress otherwise.

Got 1.5 tie-ins before the sun hit and it became impossible. Still pretty much going bolt to bolt but found a better beta for the very end of the traverse

Not since Spread Em Baby has a route been so much harder than it looks from the ground. Touched the 4th bolt jug but was too tired, got the boulders below that though. May give it more go’s. If only the approach wasn’t so terrifying…

A sixpack and my firstborn for crux beta for this. (Fingerlock?)

Stoked to get this second session. Very much my style: crimp crimp high foot crimp crimp. Had to bleed for (on) it but it went!

Third session. It’s really just that one move, but there’s no good rest in the climbing leading up to it, and the contrast of how hard the move is with the glory jugs pretty much right after it and all the way to the top is nice.

Second go of the day (on the first I fell on the last move AGAIN). This time forced myself to rest on the jug before that last sequence for a long time. Probably gave me just enough juice back. So happy to finally tick this bad boy. 🤩

Stoked! One of my favorites of the year. Could not do the crux last year, so measurable improvement is always nice, but also (unpopular opinion!) I don’t mind how short it is.

In the end Gabriele G’s beta was the trick. Used lower foot (landing hold of first crux) for the second crux and backflagged LF to get to gaston thingy statically rather than as a desperate throw.

First RP go after one exploratory lap to be sure of my beta. I definitely screamed through a couple of the crimps at the top anyway, because I could not find any rest after the crux. Cool climb, this wall has some really good rock!