Routes as sport in Australian Capital Territory

Climb the rightward leaning diagonal line of holds with four bolts. Pull round onto the arete and up easily to a bolt belay.

Painful slabbing. Start three metres right of 'The Promised Land'. Climb past 4 bolts, breaking through the pain barrier at the second.

Straight up the bolted slab between Penny and Chopper

Climb the righthand side of the easy-angled slab, step across the gap and up the bulge. The climb was "retrobolted" by unknown people almost immediately - now four bolts instead of one.

The thin and sustained wall with two bolts five metres right of 'Lincoln's Lament'.

The steep slab six metres right of 'Darkling'. Fun but friable.

Start 15 metres left of 'Slant Flying' where a boulder leans against the wall. Climb the thin wall with three bolts. Bolt belay at the top.

A pleasant climb up the arete left of 'Easy Wind' with two bolts. Belay on the ramp below the horizontal break at the top, then traverse off left.

The wall three metres left of 'Pas de Deux' with two bolts. A thin crux past the first bolt.

Steeper than your average face. The well protected, friable wall with four bolts on the downhill side of the boulder. Often started at a cairn a few metres left of the bolts. Trad or sling belay, then rap from the Poacher's Pantry rings.

To the right of 'Bad Press' is an entrance to the cave.

A short friction traverse on an undercut slab inside the cave. Up to the first bolt and traverse across to the second. A hard move, then up easily to the top of the boulder. It is also possible to climb straight up from the first bolt.

Start on the boulder in the western window of the camping cave. Clip a bolt and step up left into the flared chimney. Easily up this or the slab ("friable and unprotected"!! - Simon Carter) on the right. Thread belay.

Friable holds on the wall two metres right of 'Stepping Out'. Move left onto the arete after the third bolt. Double bolt belay.

The bolt ladder three metres right of 'Moonbeam'. Nice moves up a steep arete. Double bolt belay. Your decision whether to start on the boulder or from a bit lower, possibly a bit harder if so.

Start on the boulder opposite 'Moonbeam'. Stick clip the first bolt. A tricky and bouldery start then up the arete past three bolts to rap anchor.

Back outside the cave and downhill from Bad Press:

Start on the left edge of a boulder about 10 metres downhill from 'Bad Press'. Step off the boulders in the gully, then up the wall past two bolts.

The arete downhill from 'Anakey to Life' with four bolts to lower-offs. Sharp on the tips. Originally led with a rest on the top bolt.

The hardest route in the ACT for quite a while, climbed on the seventh separate attempt. The thin and technical arete with six bolts.

Start on the boulder below 'Technocrat', 10m left and around the corner from Anamosscity. Climb the wall with three bolts, moving left and up at the third bolt.

Takes the arete four metres left of 'Party Plate Glass'. Well protected (as usual) with four bolts.

Knob cranking up a short wall facing the valley past two bolts. From 'Drunk and Disorderly' walk downhill for 10m then duck through a narrow gap on the left. Turn left for 10m then down a short gully and left to find the climb. There's no gear to be found, and descent is by rap/scramble off the top

The wall-to-arete opposite 'Sunshine' with one bolt. Bush belay.

The wall one metre right of 'Kinematic' with four bolts and some very thin moves. Bush belay.

Just right of 'Scaramouche'. A thin, overhanging corner cave flake with a number of bolts.

3m right of Patience, in the courtyard behind 'Snatch it Back and Hold It'. A really nice thin flake with three bolts.

The great little arete 100m right of 'Scaramouche' (as you face it). Sustained and technical climbing with three bolts. Gear belay.

An unnecessary addition (but who are we (John Churchill and Mike Peck) to talk?). The rather obvious line brushed into submission on the boulder in the descent gully to 'Trojan Wall'. Two bolts, bolt belay.

Good climbing on the wall left of Soolaimon. From the big boulder leaning against the central off-width, climb up and right under three bolts then up the scoop past another bolt. Single bolt belay under the roof, or traverse right to the double bolt belay on Soolaimon.

Start at the fallen block eight metres left and downhill from 'Rats, Bats and Witches' Hats'. Climb the thin arete past three bolts to the top. Belay under the block

Start five metres right of 'Blood on the Cracks'. Climb a short wall (crux) and slab past three bolts to a bolt belay. Very mossy as of February 2014.

Start on a triangular ledge on the valley end of the central chimney, near 'Effigy'. Climb the corner and wall with two bolts.

The line of bolts one metre right of 'Power Cat'; a bad joke even by sports climbing standards.

Pleasant enough. Takes the wall and prominent sickle shaped arete 20 metres right of 'Power Cat'.

1. 10m (20) - Up the wall past three bolts to a spacious ledge with bolt belay.

2. 15m (18) - Climb the right side of the arete to a stance, then step left around the arete to an easier slab. Rap anchor back 5m.

Start just right of the double bolt belay on 'Lartigue'. Climb up the wall past a bolt to a slab and another bolt. Move up right then back left and mantle to finish. Walk back to the bolt belay on 'Lartigue'.

Start two metres left of 'Rolling Thunder'. Climb the arete and wall with three bolts to lower-off.

In marked contrast to the impressive wall above! The arete on the big boulder 10 metres right of 'Rolling Thunder'. Chimney up to the bolt (if you're tall enough) then climb the arete. Bolt belay.

The arete 10 metres right of 'Dead Horse Gap' with an undercut and gymnastic start. Well protected climbing past six bolts leads to a ledge and bolt belay. Rap off, or climb up and across the chimney to a platform from which you can downclimb 'Boulder Choke'.

The overhanging flakey wall between 'Dead Horse Gap' and 'Geared for Romance' with six bolts.

A superb climb. Start four metres right of 'New Brutalist'. Crank up the wall on flakes past four bolts, then move right onto the blunt arete and up past three more bolts. There is a chain belay at the top of this climb (inches from perfect cam cracks) to save the two minute walk around the back!

The clean, sharp and sustained face glittering 15 metres left of 'Chimney Climb'. Up the well protected wall past eight (new) bolts to a thought provoking finish (crux).

Another good, well protected face climb. Start three metres left of 'New Brutalist'. Up the wall past six bolts, moving right at the top to join 'New Brutalist'.

The slab leading up to 'Rum, Buggery and the Lash' with four bolts, starting from a platform.

Quite good. The brushed wall with two bolts about 100 metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Start up to the left of a vegetated off-width chimney. Hard moves up to and past the first bolt lead to a mantle and the second bolt. Continue up the slab to a tree belay at the end of the boulder.

"Maybe if you take out the bolts, nobody will know." - Joe Lynch. The short slab on a hidden boulder 15 metres left of 'Blue Stumps' as you face uphill. Up past two bolts. Rope stretching!

Start about eight metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Climb the wall and arete with three bolts. The crux is past the first bolt.

Popular. Start a few metres right of SAAT. Up the dark slab to emerge through the hole. Optional cam. Belay off rap anchor.

Start 2m right of WR. Up the slab and onto the headwall.

Two pitches can be done independently; second pitch can be accessed by scrambling up the chimney to the left of Fat and Healthy. Only second pitch shown on topo - up and left past two bolts to the summit.

1. 12m - Start opposite Skippy's slab. Up the brushed wall past 2 bolts

2. 8m - Hard moves past two more bolts to the top

The bolted line on the downhill side of the Skippy Slab boulder, which you walk past on the way to the 'Egg Cave'. Chipped but still quite hard. Rebolted 2013.

Popular beginner route. The slab past one bolt to rap anchor. Rebolted 2007 (approx).

Popular. Located around the corner from Skippy slab. Carefully walk across the slab to the DBB. Climb the delicate slab trending left past 2 bolts. Rap station as for Skippy Slab. Rebolted 2013.

Sustained unit right of Gooney Waltz. Start from the DBB. Head slightly right to the 1st BR then back left past 3 more. Rebolted 2007 (Approx).

Walk through the egg cave and Easy Rider is on your left.

1. 10m (17) Straight up past bolt to DBB. Originally graded 12.

2. 8m (17) Big rockover onto the egg and walk up the slab to DBB.

3. 13m (14) A short walk over to the Goony Waltz boulder. Step across and pad up clean slab past 2 bolts to rap chains on the 'Skippy's Slab' boulder.

Rebolted 2011. Now with fixed hangers.

Start about 15m down and right from Easy Rider. The steep slab on flakes and sorry looking carrots. Finish up ER. The original route climbed well but has since exfoliated. Best to keep off.

Still OK post fire - some of the flakes have blown off making it more reachy and some that remain are very creaky. Rebolted 2006 (approx)

A modern classic with technical and varied moves, well protected by six bolts. Exfoliated post fires. Start below the huge hanging boulder on the right arete. Rebolted 2013.

The improbable looking wall five metres right (about 10 metres left of 'Tri State'), featuring hard wall climbing on sharp and friable holds. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts. The crux is after the second bolt.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

Start just left of 'Tri State'. Up the wall and slab with four bolts.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

The clean, wavy slab left of 'The Groove'. Start at the obvious holds on the left, about six metres up 'The Groove', and move up to a bolt. Up the cleaned slab passing a second (originally graded 23).

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

The left hand route on the upper tier of the Knife Edge Boulder. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

The popular slab a couple of metres right of V1 Special. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

The left hand route back onto the mainland. Start from DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder. Walk down the slab, preclip a bolt, and launch yourself onto the wall. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

The right hand route back onto the mainland. From the DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder walk down the slab and fall across the void. This is best done hands first. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

A steep slab on small edges - Start on the arete left of Heckmondwicke Twist.

One of the harder face climbs around, once upon a time. Start 15 metres right of and below 'Heckmondwike Twist' at the boulder with a dyke and flake. Up the thin and technical wall with four bolts to a tree belay.

The slabby arete two boulders right of French Connections. "Fantastically thin layaways and edges" off the block past three bolts.

Start just right of a large tree about 10m right of the start of Juveniles. Climb the slab trending left. Continue up Juveniles P2 to the top of the Knife Edge Boulder, or trad belay as for Juveniles P1. The first bolt is quite high and there are suspect flakes down low.

Entire route now hidden under fallen tree branches after the fires.

The line 8m down and right of No Glove. Rap in similar style as No Glove (60m rope required). Start on the low angled mossy slab. Your belayer will be standing on the slab, leaning against the obvious boulder. Climb the slab past 2 bolts. Cruxey before and after the 1st bolt (8m). Treat the flakes with respect.

Very run-out slabbing ... Should be at Booroomba.

Rap in as for On the Beach (60m rope just reaches). Start underneath the blunt arete (about 6m down and right from OTB). Up the slab to join OTB at the second bolt.

Beautiful slab climbing on good rock. Best access is to scramble up the back of the boulder and rap in (refer NGNL, OTB etc). Extend the anchor with a long sling and a 60m rope will just reach. You can walk in but you will be wallowing in scrub.

Start 5m right of OTBDS, directly below the 1st bolt. Legend has it more than one climber as got stuck on the initial overlap and has required assistance from above, Pre or stick clip if you're not solid at the grade.

Up 'Oddball' for two metres, then left to a bolt. Up the brushed wall passing another bolt on the way to the arete. Finish easily as for 'Oddball'.

Start below a dyke on the western side of the 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' boulder, about 50 metres around to the right from that climb. Thin climbing to a bolt and up the dyke above past one more bolt (clip with wires). Walk up the arete ('No Easy Street') to belay.

Steep slab climbing. Start, again, as for 'Oddball' to the bolt, then move rightwards along the cleaned streak past three more bolts (the bolts are overdriven - clip with small wires).

Thin moves up the wall about 10 metres left of 'Antipodean Atrocities'. Start at the top of 'Going Troppo', 'Oddball', etc where the boulder leans against the black wall. Five bolts, with the crux after the second.

The thin sustained wall between 'Le Muir Noir' and 'Antipodean Atrocities'. Start as for 'Le Muir Noir' but head right.

Interesting climbing, a good position and an abundance of metal make this route worthwhile. Scramble to the top of the 'Changes' boulder and find a bolt belay. After a bouldery start, climb the arete to the top, clipping four bolts on the way.

Thin, balancy and sustained climbing. Start as for 'McCoy's Arete'; clip the first bolt on this and climb down to join the dyke. Up this to the top with four bolts and a bolt belay.

A slabby, mossy wall on the southern side of the main group of boulders with three bolts to a triple bolt belay. Other reports say it is harder.

The arete between 'Sentry Duty' and 'Flying Arkwright' with a pretty slippery crux. Originally three bolts and six holds; now six bolts and three holds.

The wavy slab just left of 'Blood on His Lips'. A high first bolt and a good candidate for a stick clip. Belay on gear and walk off.

Start up the hanging nose and continue up the arete past three bolts.

Start as for Snake-in-the-Grass. Straight up the wall. Optional cam in break (#0.4-0.5 BD). Lower down Red Belly.

The black corner on the left side of the top buttress with four bolts.

The crack system left of the orange streak, with a crucial wire slot a few metres up.

Sustained face climbing. Start three metres right of 'Blue Wind'. Up past a bolt to the first bolt on 'Blue Velvet'. Continue up through the overlap and wall above passing four more bolts. DBB.

The rounded arete and face just right of 'The Lure' with four bolts. Sharp on the tips.

The slabby nose on the next boulder right of 'Cintride'. Up past two bolts then traverse delicately rightwards past two more bolts. Some thin moves.

Good overhanging face on ironstone jugs with three bolts. Throw the rope off the boulder and have your second tie it off to a tree in order to escape.

Starting off the platform on north facing wall. A good thin face past three bolts to an overhanging finish, sharp on the tips.

Popular slab. Start 2m right of 'Django the Bastard' below an undercling flake.

Steep slab right of 'Death Rides Alone'. Shares the same anchor.

Start at the right end of the cliff as for 'Dollars for a Fast Gun', but at the third bolt head left and follow the shallow groove.

The very right hand line and the first you come to. Great balance move through onto the steep slab.

The left of the bolted lines up the middle of the face.

The right hand bolted line. Hard moves below last bolt with potentially bad fall consequences giving a satisfying lead.

Follows the stepped, right-facing corner, passing several ring bolts, before moving left past a couple of fixed hangers to double-bolted rings at the top.

Originally graded 14, this is/was the easiest route on the crag. The farthest left route, trending rightwards towards the top to a lower off.

Originally graded 14, this is the third route from the left. Trends left after the first few metres, then straight up to a lower off.

There is an optional left hand variant start at a few grades stouter

Hard, bouldery climbing up the uniquely Gritstone-esque arête joining 'Wide World Of Sports' for the last bolt and up to the shared anchor.

First route climbed on the crag. Hard, bouldery climbing on great rock. Shares a lower off with 'Sausage Factory'.