Showing all 95 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
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Trad | |||||
14 | Hardboiled
Several routes finish on the northern side of the platform - this one is a three minute lead. The small juggy roof on the right. FA: Ken Luck & Peter Connolly, 1986 | 8m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ JAM (Just Another Megaroute)
Start 10m left of Juveniles. Traverse left then up the unprotected slab. Belay on gear as for Juveniles P1. Originally soloed by man and beast. Not a good lead for beginners. FA: Mike Peck & John Carlson, 1984 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | Quick Draw
Follow the hand (jam) traverse to the arête then up the crack. FA: Brian Mattick & Robert Doublas, 2016 | 9m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | ★★ The Seventh Hedgehog
The right-facing corner crack leading to a blocky finish. Chain belay. FA: John Stone, Hugh Stone, S. Raiser & Mike Peck, 1979 | 20m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | ★ Professor Longhair and the Shuffling Hungarians
This is on a small boulder 30 metres west of 'Changes' and 30 metres uphill from Mario and the Blue Angels. Climb up the left side of the flake, then up the crack to the top. FA: Mike Peck (solo), 1987 | 10m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | ★ Blinky
Start between Cave Crack and Bee Line. Climb the slab, heading towards a wide crack right of the fixed anchors. Crux is the first 5m of climbing. | 13m | Queanbeyan area | ||
14 | ★ Snow Storm
Fist crack and flake on the southeast side of the large boulder to the north of No Reservations. Climbed in a blizzard. All routes on this boulder are served by a single-bolt belay. FA: Adam Blizzard & Mike Peck, 1987 | 10m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | ★ Bee Line
Start 1m left of Blinky at the crack. Bridge up past a white patch, then up the slab above to two bolt belay. | 12m | Queanbeyan area | ||
9 - 19 | White Rocks Traverse
Traverse the crag from left to right. Difficulty depends entirely on how far you go, and the height at which you climb. | 10m | Queanbeyan area | ||
14 | Cinders
Start at the blunt arete left of the cave. Up this to a dirty crack. FA: John Churchill & James Cotsell, 1996 | 10m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | ★ Random Route Variant
A good alternative second pitch is the steep corner crack four metres to the right. FA: Mike Todd & Tony Wood, 1969 | 12m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Return of the Leaping Lounge Lizards
On the boulder directly below 'The Lure' is a pleasant slabby groove with a harder start. A lovely line and fun climbing. FA: Liz Milbourne & Catherine Eadie, 1995 | 8m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | ★★ Lichen to Love
Aptly named and a fine companion to other routes in the vicinity. Start at the lichenous pillar right of 'Singularity'. Up the pillar and flakes before moving right across the moss to a corner. Up this and more moss to a large bushy ledge. FA: Phil Cullen & Peter Mills, 1970 | Orroral area | |||
14 | Low Interest
On a wavy slab 30 metres left of 'The Lure'. Up the middle; a delightful slab with an enhanced wire placement. FA: Mike Law-Smith (solo), 1995 | 8m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | Flying Tortoise
The curving chimney eight metres right of 'Derision'.
FA: Joe Friend, 1973 | 50m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Denethor
1
14
30m
2
40m
3
30m
A good introduction to slab climbing. Climbs the slabs and grooves bordering the right-hand end of the northern slabs. Start at a short, steep black slab just left of a damp overhang where the walking track rises after skirting below 'The Terrace'.
FA: Peter Aitchison & Tony Wood (alt.), 1969 | 100m, 4 | Orroral area | ||
14 | Corner Crack
Some natural pro required - take small wires and cames. Trends leftward up to a walk off. Watch yourself on the slippery stuff up top! | 15m | Canberra | ||
14 | ★ Lepton
Some good, easy and exposed climbing along a rightwards traverse. Starts at the top of Denethor P2. To get there, either climb Denethor P1 and P2 or carefully walk 10m left of Echidna and then climb Denethor P2 (the easy-angled groove).
FA: Peter Sands & J. Land, 1973 | 92m, 5 | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★★ Counterbalance
1
14
2
14
3
11
Slab climbing that is 'a little more serious' than 'Denathor' due to the scarce (but solid) protection on the second pitch. Start as for 'Denethor' (or skip the first pitch and start at the left-hand edge of 'The Terrace', about 15m left of Echidna).
FA: Tony Wood & J. Langford, 1969 | 120m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
14 | I Can Jump Puddles
The line and corner 15m left of Marillion. FA: Adam Blizzard, Madeleine Schultz (solo) & Madeleine Schultz | 60m | Southern ACT | ||
14 | ★ Tachyon
A pleasant first pitch, then a wandering adventure. Start at the right-facing corner crack on the left edge of the main slabs.
FA: Peter Sands & Tony Wood (var), 1971 | 80m, 4 | Orroral area | ||
14 | Ward 3B
Part of 'Hospital Crag' to the south of Smiling Rock. From the belay on Scaffold Injuries, layback the corner crack on the right, then follow the crack system to the top, squeezing under a tree branch. FA: Ben Jones & Chris Holly, 1989 | 25m | Southern ACT | ||
14 | Eagle Eye
An utterly worthless girdle of this area, unless you're into reliving 1970s exploration. Start 15m left of Tachyon, where a vegetated ramp heads right and a crack/ramp heads left. Wanders easily rightwards, up and down along the upper part of the Northern Slabs.
FA: J. Langford & Tony Wood (alt.), 1970 | 130m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Hard Times
Start off a bushy ledge 15 metres right of Spiral and 10 metres up the large gully (best approached from the top of the gully). Climb the perfectly straight crackline. FA: Adam Blizzard, Julie Styles & Colin Hayhoe, 1990 | 30m | Southern ACT | ||
14 | Staircase
Start 30 metres up the hillside from 'Euripus' and about 10m left of the large block on its second pitch. To avoid the scrub bash to the start it is better to climb the first pitch of Euripus then traverse left along the ledge to below the break in the overlap. Climb the short slab to the overlap. Climb the overlap on good holds then smearing (unprotected crux) up the slab trending left to a horizontal crack at 17m, then up the easier slab to a black water streak. Climb the water streak and belay off a block. Walk off right. FA: J. Hoskins, 1971 | 45m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Crixus
The offwidth come squeeze chimney 8m east of Spartacus. FA: B.Aikman & D.Anderson-Smith, 2013 | 15m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★★ Grease is the Word
The obvious corner at the right-hand end of the slabs. The first pitch required extensive landscaping.
FA: John Stone & Paul Daniel (alt.), 1980 | 90m | Southern ACT | ||
14 | ★ East Coast of South America
From the top of 'Mel and Kim Go Boxing' continue delicately up the flake below and right of 'Sickle' to DBB. Rap off or traverse right to join 'Deep Space'. FA: Anne Hastings & Ken McConnell, 1987 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
14 | The Chimney
The line of the cliff. The chimney splitting the wall left of the big corner. Up corner then chimney to ledge. Cross Carpe Diem and straight up to top. FA: Lex Holcombe & Peter Blunt, 1996 | 35m | Mt Coree area | ||
14 | Misogyny
Quite good, reminiscent of 'Counterbalance'. Start beneath a steep slab 20 metres left of 'Pasqua', about five metres left of a dark water-mark.
FA: Adrian Wing, Paul Daniel (var.) & Roe Fisk, 1980 | 90m | Southern ACT | ||
14 | ★ Flowers and Fruit
The obvious crack in the left wall of the buttress, two metres left of 'Greenland'. FA: Adam Blizzard & Tallis Didcott, 1986 | 10m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Norm's Nees
Pretty grim. The rightwards leaning chimney with a big leaning block above. FA: Norm Booth, Bill Wilson & Lincoln Hall, 1973 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Shag Alley
Downhill and right from 'White Witch' is the initially overhanging crack. FA: Lincoln Hall & Peter Mills, 1974 | 12m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Roy's Crack
When climbers stare up at this crack/trench route they invariably mutter "old school" and move right along. It is in fact a pretty good romp and you will use the full bag of climbing tricks. Despite the good climbing, it is not suitable for learning to place protection, as it can be a bit tricky. Start: left of Integral and Equanimity. FA: Tony Wood & Roy Hyndman (alt), 1966 | 50m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Cul-de-Sac Crack
The short curving crack on the back of the 'Scaramouche' boulder, 5m right of Boogeybaloo. FA: Shane Carson & Arthur Zawodski, 1979 | 8m | Orroral area | ||
14 | The Bra Strap
A "worthless and contrived girdle which follows the line of least resistance off the ground". Starts up Peter Pan and traverses the South Buttress from right to left finishing up Matrix. Apparently ties a lot of good stuff together. FA: Bob Watt & John Hoskins, 1970 | 190m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Snow Queen
The chimney five metres right of the main wall. Up over chockstones, eventually traversing out under boulders to a good ledge. FA: Mike Law & Lincoln Hall, 1974 | 45m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Aquanaut Direct Start
An obvious line that looks a bit unpleasant and menacing. Surprisingly steep for the Northern Slabs. Start 25m left of Picnic at a thin crack in a slab beneath a small overhang. Up crack to overlap, climb overlap then either right or left to surmount the small overhang. Continue up the slab to the start of Aquanaut. Either finish up Aquanaut or scramble left along the vegetated ramp to return to the base of the cliff. FA: brian mattick & Robert Douglas, 2013 | 15m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Overhang Corner
The first pitch is quite good, but the second is rubbish. Start (crux) in the corner ten metres right of Aitchison's Needle.
FA: Peter Aitchison & Tony Wood, 1966 | 32m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
14 | Treebeard
"Recommended for those who enjoy a good thrutch". Need we say more? Start left of 'The Morrigan'.
FA: Tony Wood & Ian Taylor (alt.), 1973 | 35m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Matrix
Start as for Hortensia.
FA: Peter Aitchison & Neil Anderson, 1968 | 40m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
14 | Dipthong
Disjointed. Start as for 'Split the Difference'.
FA: Ian Taylor, Chris Larque & Tony Wood (var.), 1974 | 45m, 5 | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Tree Problems
Discontinuous. Start from the first belay on 'Three Problems'.
FA: Ian Taylor & Tony Wood (alt.), 1975 | 25m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
14 | Three Problems
Start 15 metres right of 'Morsehold', immediately right of a flake pinnacle.
FA: Lincoln Hall & Bill Wilson, 1973 | 45m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
14 | Erstwhile Emus
The chimney at the back of the cave above 'Nursery Chimney'. Climb straight up, with a rather extreme bridging start, to finish through the slot. The gulley just right of the Erstwhile Emus cave provides the easiest scramble up to 'Sentinel Rocks' from here. FA: John Churchill & Ken Luck, 1989 | 10m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Greengage
A short but sweet hand-crack on a boulder 5m left of 'T.V. Glotzen'. | 6m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | Morsehold
Climbs the slab and wall to the left-hand overhang. Start at the right-hand end of the slab at an easy, dirty corner.
FA: John Hoskins & Bob Watt, 1970 | 60m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Little Lamb Dragonfly
An exciting, poorly protected climb up the right edge of the huge flake on the valley side, seen as you walk towards 'Sentinel Rocks'. Start from the ledge six metres right, traverse left and climb the flake, then left and up to finish as for 'Lazy Dynamite'. There is a direct crack start (grade 17). FA: Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & John Smart, 1974 | 45m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Mangler
Start approximately below 'Further Out' at a leftwards slanting crackline.
FA: Lincoln Hall & Bill Wilson, 1973 | 40m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
14 | Maquette de Sade
Incredibly unsustained and worthless. Find your way onto the large platform right of 'Little Lamb Dragonfly' and climb the arete on the left past one bolt. FA: John Churchill, Rohan Heisler & Robert Wall, 1989 | 10m, 1 | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Vent Crack
Only the first two pitches are worth the effort. It is better to finish up Baryon. Start (marked) below the prominent crack 20 metres left of 'Outer Limit', at the right-hand end of an orange wall (Snickers Wall).
FA: Peter Aitchison & Tony Wood, 1968 | 130m, 5 | Orroral area | ||
14 | Olmec
The crack on the other side of 'Toltec'. FA: Adam Blizzard (solo), 1988 | 15m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Reverence
The most obvious, and easiest way to the top. Still, the gear is tricky in the top half, and be very careful of crumbly rock. FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 29 Aug 2020 | 7m | Pierce's Creek | ||
14 | ★★ The Ivory Coast
Just beautiful. It ascends a fragile flake to the right of 'Denethor', and is a great way to finish 'The Girdle Traverse' etc. At the start of the third pitch of 'Denethor', move right for about three metres to a ledge. Climb the leftwards leaning ramp behind to the obvious flake. Up the right hand side with tender loving care, then the slab above to belay. FA: Chris Larque & Phil Cullen, 1977 | 25m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Kynan
There is a small outcrop about two-thirds of the way up the hill, usually passed on its right, which features a large curving broken flake on the right. The curving flake. Tyson's first lead. FA: Tyson Sadlo, Kirsty Macpherson & John Churchill, 1997 | 8m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Mule
The obvious chimney on the east side of main outcrop. FA: B. Aikman, 2021 | 8m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | ★ High Diddle
A lovely little slab! Straight up the middle of the slab between the cracks to the apex, then straight on up. Some dubious protection used to be had by lassoing the poor tree on the way. Quite overgrown and mossy at last visit - needs a good clean. FA: Ray Lassman, John Smart, Norm Booth & Bernie McLachlan, 1978 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Dead Horse Gap
The obvious right angled chimney corner on the river side. Straight up from just inside the chimney and finish up the slab. FA: Lincoln Hall (solo), 1975 | 30m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Evil Ways
The off-width chimney in the left of the passageway right of 'Afterburn'. FA: Humzoo (Ian Thomas), 1978 | 12m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Gak
The horrible corner system five metres left of 'Awk' with a loose chockstone. FA: Wishes to remain anonymous (solo), 1989 | 10m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Void
Chimney right of DC. Protected by wires and small cams in the horizontal breaks. FA: 2020 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | ★ Cosmic Connection
The corner left of 'Gazelle Boy'. Starting up blocks, go up to a crack in the wall. FA: Humzoo, John Smart & Ray Lassman, 1978 | 12m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Pracatan
Continuing north along the ridge will bring you to another set of boulders at the verge of a steep drop to the valley. Heading east from these boulders will take you to a descent gully. Halfway down the lefthand fork is a pillar and short crack - Pracatan. This was the first route at the crag. FA: Craig Maclachlan, Sean Culhane & Cath Patterson, 1994 | 8m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Croissant
Soft and Flakey, the flared crack faceing the road. FA: N Walkom & J Trihey, Jun 2021 | 10m | Pierce's Creek | ||
14 | ★★ Sweetwater Wine
The delightful easy angled line in the centre of the wall. Start as for 'Star Fucker', then easily up the corner. Now slightly overgrown, but with an easier start since a block fell out. FA: Norm Booth, Ray Lassman, Humzoo & John Smart, 1978 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Pianist Envy
Walking slightly down and further east will bring you to a small courtyard - this is the corner crack. FA: Sean Culhane & Craig Maclachlan, 1995 | 8m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★★ Disco Non-Stop Party
Climb the block in the corner, then handcrack. Has probably been done before... FA: Rat, Marissa Higgins, Jozo El Cabro, Jim Trihey & Sienna Rhazouani, 6 Oct 2021 | 12m | Pierce's Creek | ||
14 | Handjob
A wanky little route up the obscure, leaning corner on the southern side. FA: Matthew Jones & John Churchill, 1987 | 10m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Dubious Tactics
Start as for Lengthways Chinaman but keep going up the right-curving crack. Belay as for Blue Lights. Walk off. FA: John Finnigan, Lincoln Hall & Will Steffen, 1982 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | ★★ Black Velvet
Corner crack with perfect jams 5m left of Terrapin. FA: Jim Trihey & Jozo El Cabro, 9 Oct 2021 | 8m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | Diehard
Up the chimney on the easy side of the big block, then pull up on the boulder on the left. FA: John Finnigan, Will Steffen & Peter Cocker, 1983 | 12m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Peroxide Power
Start 5m right of Baby Arete at the twin shallow cracks. Climb the steep wall to the anchor bolts. Technical and sustained for 10m. | 13m | Queanbeyan area | ||
Top rope | |||||
14 | Honey
From the left rope in the picture. Climb the left arete and crack to the ledge and then continue up the right arete and crack. FA: Ross Davies, 2 Jul 2017 Set: Ross Davies, 2 Jul 2017 | 12m | Canberra | ||
Sport | |||||
14 | Pool Traverse
| 10m | Canberra | ||
14 | ★ The Bummer
Follows the stepped, right-facing corner, passing several ring bolts, before moving left past a couple of fixed hangers to double-bolted rings at the top. | 14m, 5 | Canberra | ||
14 | Scaled
FA: Dave McGregor, 2012 | 7m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | ★ Do two Dwarves Still Count as a Threesome
Reachy slab moves to DBB FA: Cammeron Naughton & Ken Mckeon, 2004 | 7m, 2 | Canberra | ||
14 | ★ Wires In The Hand
FA: Dave Anderson-Smith, 2012 | 7m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | AGB (Another Gully Buster)
Up the right side of the first ledge, sharing 1st bolt with Long Drop, then directly up to second ledge. Think about dinner as you wander up the grassy gully (unprotected) for a few metres to the 2nd bolt & up for an enjoyable finish. FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, 2014 | 8m, 2 | Canberra | ||
14 | Long Drop
Up the right side of the first ledge, moving left around the rooflet (slightly exposed) and then up to ledge & DBB. FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, 2014 | 6m, 3 | Canberra | ||
14 | Waste Not, Want Not
Follow Gas Mask to the 3rd bolt then move left around the cave roof to another bolt (14) and continue up and left to the leftmost DBB. FA: Caleb Baker, 2014 | 20m, 4 | Canberra | ||
14 | ★ Drank The Slab
Start from the 4th (right) belay bolt, moving up then traversing left before going up again and traversing right (crux) after the 3rd bolt to meet the 3rd bolt of Gas Mask & finish up GM or WNWN. FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, 2014 | 25m, 4 | Canberra | ||
14 | Unstable Ally
Start on the boulder and up short arete to chains FA: Justin Ryan, 2015 | 6m, 3 | Mt Coree area | ||
14 | ★★ Galvin is my favourite
The line of bolts up a very nice textured slab. The deathtrap aluminium hangers have been replaced | 25m, 6 | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ My Name is Luka
Popular beginner route. The slab past one bolt to rap anchor. Rebolted 2007 (approx). FA: Caron Avis & Ann Hastings, 1987 | 15m, 1 | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
Boulder | |||||
V0- | Mellifluous
Small boulder on the way in to the hand. Warm-up sit start. | 2m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
{US} V0-/0 | ★ Problem 6
Sit start, then up and stay to the right using the easy holds. | 4m | Canberra | ||
V0-/0 | Problem 9 & 3/4
From a standing start, get your hands high up on the right edge of the arete and your toes into the crack running along the bottom of the rock. Shuffle your hands up the edge until you reach the jug, get your left foot onto the crimp hold from 'Problem 9' then swing your right foot up onto the ledge and convince the rest of your body to follow it. Continue to the top. | 2m | Canberra | ||
V0-/0 | ★ Section 59
Same Boulder as the topo above From a standing start, grab two big jugs on the arete and get your feet onto the sloping blocks underneath. Swing a lft foot into the little orange incut notch the the left, stand up on that and head on up. FA: | 4m | Canberra | ||
V0- | Up & Down
The access scramble/scramble-off. FA: Duncan Brown, 2013 | 3m | Queanbeyan area | ||
V0- | Warmup 1
FA: Willem Ryan | 3m | Orroral area | ||
V0- | #12
Warmup. Not really even V0, just something to get your body moving. | 3m | Pierce's Creek | ||
V0- | #30
A nice warm-up. | 3m | Canberra | ||
V0- | ★ Water Dragon
Look out for the resident reptile | 5m | Canberra | ||
14 | BK2
Around to the right of BK1. Layback or offwidth start and then up. Walk off. V0 / maybe 14? Onsite solo FA FA: Stuart McElroy, 7 Aug 2021 | 7m | Pierce's Creek |
Showing all 95 routes.