Routes in Australian Capital Territory for selected grade

Just right of the east-west passageway is a small, thin corner with one bolt (carrot) up high.

Will this sporty route re-ignite the slab-climbing craze of Booroomba's heyday? Try it yourself to find out. Start 25m left of 'Closer In'. Do some pull-ups on a nearby tree to warm up for the first-move crux.

1. 12m (22) Up the slab past three bolts to a large bushy ledge. Belay at the tree.

2. 25m (21) Boulder past the first bolt then crimpy slabbing up the wall above, using the black flake right of the bolts for a few metres then back left. 10 bolts. Double bolt belay on the main traverse ledge.

3. 54m (19) Up easily past two bolts then up the corner to the right (gear), crossing Jubilate and joining the start of Space Waltz. Crux move past the bolt up and left off the ledge, then follow comfy positive flakes up the steep slab. When the bolts run out head straight up to double bolt belay at the back of the recess. 10 bolts.

Sustained climbing with a great position. Start four metres left of 'Bosch Boys'. Climb up past five bolts until the angle steepens. Move up and traverse left to the arete past two more bolts then step up on a flake to clip the eighth bolt. Downclimb two metres and move left and up the flake on 'Tautology'. Belay on 1.5 and 2 size Friends.

Up the delightful corner crack about 20 metres right of 'Ebony Quill', then balancy moves to a single bolt belay.

The tree may now be burnt, but it was on. The roof and crack between Stentor and Snot. Pull through the horizontal break then up the crack to the top.

The beautiful little corner hidden in a boulder filled alcove near south-east end of the outcrop, on the valley side.

The crack at the head of the gully with a hard, undercut start.

The wall on a boulder 10 metres uphill from 'The Demon Explores the Sea'. Up past two bolts, exiting using the crack on the left and up the slab to belay.

The thin crack system on the closest side of the eastern boulder.

The thin, left-slanting crack. Placing protection is strenuous.

Another good sustained slab. Start two metres left of 'My Face is My Future'. Boulder the start to the first bolt, then left and up to the second bolt. Sustained climbing past two more bolts relents with good flakes between the fourth and fifth. From the fifth bolt run it out up the slab and left onto the arete. Climb up to a short diagonal crack (#3 rock) then up the short slab to the belay.

Step off a boulder just left of 'Hog Wall' proper and clip the first bolt, then up the face and crack past another bolt. Trad belay.

Tacks on a little extra. Climb the crack to the left of the belay ledge.

Up the crack in the middle of the main face and continue straight up past three ring bolts.

A one move wonder which is quite fun. Start just right of the obvious groove. Cruise up the pocketed wall using wires, to a bulge and a bolt. Boulder past this then up to a flake (2.5 friend) and continue to the top. Thread belay.

Start up the mossy gully 15 metres right of 'Godzilla Borrows the Bosch'. Use a small biner on the first bolt then up past eight more to a thin finish, with the crux being the final clip. Take some small cams for the crack up high.

Good, sustained face climbing. Start on the arete 5m right and around the corner from 'Leaning Tower'. Climb the wall past two bolts to a jug-flake. Up the flake and arete to the top.

Hard slabbing. Climb the crack (Plimsoll Line) for five metres then step left onto the wall. Crimp delicately past three bolts and finish up a short crack. Name changed by Mike in 2023.

Starting just below the chossy approach slab is an overhanging crack. A superb climb with great hand jams, fingerlocks, laybacks, fist jams and a spot of off-widthing. Rap off the back.

Start in the small alcove at the base of the arete. Hand-traverse right past bolts then pull up onto the wall. Mostly straight up following bolts with occasional gear placements. About half height move onto the arete for a few metres before coming back onto the right wall. Climb short crack on arete to platform. A few moves past a bolt (small nut also possible) to the top.

Gear: metolius no. 2; camalot no. 3; nut no. 5 recommended; plus small-medium nuts, medium cams to make you more comfortable.

Belay: rap-anchor to the left of top-out.

A powerful start. Start three metres left of Three Mules. Crank desperately up the overhang past two bolts (crux) then up past two more bolts. A #3 friend then up the final bulge to a double bolt belay and chains on the left.

Boulder out the thin start five metres right of 'Godzilla Meets the Smog Monster', then cruise up past nine bolts. A misinformed raiding party a week later intended to steal the route, noted a cairn start and removed four bolts during the second ascent; these were replaced the following day!

The best climb at 'Legoland'. The obvious rightward diagonal crack on the face right of Pas de Deux. Move off left to belay at the Pas de Deux anchor.

Pumpy. The best way to finish 'Great Moments in Cricket'. Out under the roof (crux), 10 metres right of 'Morsehold Direct Finish', then up the corner.

A curious helical climb on the 'Tin Drum' pinnacle, west of the 'Cereals Buttress'. Start in a chimney right of 'Bran Buds' (or, on the downhill side, left of Snap). Climb the arete past a bolt to a crack. Swing left into this and up to another bolt. Move right onto the slab and up to double ring bolt belay.

Quite good climbing starting at the block three metres right of 'Bile'. Onto the block and up the wall above passing a horizontal break, and keeping out of 'Bile'.

Another climb with a steep start that is two metres left of poppin. Up past two bolts to a third. Continue past a flake (wire) to a bolt and jug. Double bolt belay and chains above this.

Varied climbing up the crack and wall with three bolts, starting immediately left of 'Wankel Rotary Engine'.

As for Easy Wind and keep heading right under the overlap. A very good continuation in the same style.

The crack. Descriptive buggers, these guidebook writers, eh?

This climb is to your left and around a corner as you are walking downhill - you'll probably walk past it. It is 40m uphill from Bile. Start at the flake at the right end of the wall. Up the desperate flake then up the wall past a bolt, during the long and epic voyage to the top.

A steep little arete in a good position, although the holds are a little sharp. Start about 15 metres right of 'Inside Job' where the boulder juts out over the slab. Climb up the wall on good but sharp holds past three bolts to a massive flake formed jug (sling runner). Up easily using a dubious hollow flake to a bolt belay.

A good position. Start from the finish of 'Morsehold'. Up the flaky orange corner, then the diagonal crack.

Technical and exciting. On the boulder left of 'Kodachrome 25' (20m left of Crackle) is this thin crack to the left of a diagonal off-width.

Start 10 metres left of 'Random Route' on a ledge six metres up. Climb the wall to some wire placements, then awkward moves to the bolt. Pass this with difficult, then up the short diagonal crack.

The classic of the cliff. Start six metres to the left of the fireplace. Sustained climbing up the fingertip crack which splits the otherwise featureless wall at the left-hand end of the outcrop.

Superb slab climbing leading to an exciting conclusion. Start at the obvious leftwards ramp.

1. 35 metres (21) - Up the ramp and diagonally left past two bolts to where the ramp continues. Up the seam to belay under the handcrack in the roof.

2. 7 metres (22) - Through the roof!

The off-width right of Ape. See p 196 of ACT Granite.

Cheap, nasty and totally worthless. The seam and crack on the steep side of the passage into the atrium, opposite 'California Dreaming'. Protect with cams in the horizontal break.

Overhung cranking followed by a well protected face problem. Start 15 metres right of 'Jacob', on top of a pile of boulders. The first old frayed fixed RP has now disappeared, so crank through to a higher one! Continue to the hangerless bolt, solve the face problem and up to the top.

Opposite 'Gazelle Boy' and down the slope is a boulder with an expanding crack on the downhill side, initially very thin.

A steep finish which is a considerable improvement on the original. Instead of traversing left below the overhang, continue straight up past a fixed wire and two bolts. Move left and up the arete after the second bolt.

A direct start to Pushing the Envelope; start at the fireplace five metres right of Desperate measures. Unpleasantly thin climbing up the friable slab past two bolts to join Desperate Measures.

Start two metres right of 'Kate's Bush'. Up and right past the first bolt. Cross the face to the crack on the right, then up the slab past the second bolt.

Steeper than the average slab, bigger than most climbs twice its length, with a fun roof. Start in the right hand of two slabby corners right of the river. Delicately up onto the arete past bolts to the roof. Crank across right to clip the peg (a 3/4 Friend and #4 rock back it up) then heelhook out left and slap blind (die laughing) for the jug above the lip. Follow the bolts to the birdshit and up the final steep headwall past another bolt to the double bolt belay and rap station. A two rope rap avoids the gruesome scramble up loose dirt to the top.

Another instant route that is harder than it looks. Up and through the overhang, and move right rather than left.

Discontinuous cracks on the righthand end of 'Equinox Wall'. Start behind the jammed log in a dirty chimney eight metres right of 'Close Shave'. Grovel up to a stance on the right and clip the bolt out left. Step down to gain jugs on the wall.

Start on a bushy ledge five metres right of 'Mirage'. Up a brushed streak with two bolts; take some small wires and RPs.

Start on the higher part of the ledge about three metres to the right of Burning Yams below an incipient crack. Climb the crack (protection is desperate to place).

Another Bosch marvel. Takes the left-hand slabby corner left of Sewer Side. Up the slabby corner and arete past four bolts to the overhang. Reach up and clip a bolt, then a technical pull-through to a short crack (2 1/2 Friend and #3 rock). Up the wall above, right at first then back left, past two more bolts to the alcove in the BIG roof. Small wires protect the final clip, then bridge up and launch out left over the roof to a ledge and rap station. Two ropes to the ground.

The overhanging diagonal crackline out of the left side of the cave, then hand traverse right to some corners which lead to the top.

Hidden in a little alcove, reached by walking through an enclosed chimney then scrambling up a metre. Bouldery start followed by pleasant crack climbing. Rap off.

The thin bolted wall left of 'Pelican Punch'. Two bolts on the first wall, and two on the top wall.

Good slab climbing up the white streak with two bolts just left of 'Grease is the Word'. Crux moves past the second bolt.

Start about 30 metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Up the dirty scoop and pull onto the slab above. Originally two bolts, now back in its natural state of none.

Follow thin cracks (bomber small wires and .3 cam) to the stance on the arete, then harder past 2 bolts to a big finish.

Horrendously technical pocket climbing with more bolts than decent holds. Start on the brink, where the surf meets the slabs. Clip the bolt to avoid a watery death. Pull leftwards out over the waves to a sloping foothold, then cruise up past two more bolts. A small detour left, then relentless pocket pulling to the double bolt belay and rap chain.

A circular exercise out of 'Hermes' roof to join 'Thor'. Move left from under the roof, around the lip and up a groove then back right to the belay.

The overhanging hand to fist crack, broken by a ledge, on the downhill side of the boulder. Flaky rock - take care.

Place a good wire with a stick, then launch up the overhanging podded crack. When the lower crack ends, move left into the more regular handcrack. Wires and cams for the first half, a few #2 and/or #3 camalots for the upper crack.

Another outstanding sustained wall. A hard start three metres right of 'Morning Thunder'. Climb up past two bolts then move right and up to a short crack. Continue up the wall moving left at the top to belay as for 'Morning Thunder'.

The obvious corner crack down and right from 'Milwaulkee Pig Iron' (at the same level and 10 metres left of 'My Generation') - it had repelled a number of attempts over the years. Finish up a slab to a bolt belay.

More of the same steep pockets. Start as for Lure of the Sewer. Climb past two bolts, then lean left and clip a bolt below the little overlap. Move left keeping your feet below the overlap (crux) to a good pocket, then a jug and a bolt, of cours. Up directly past two more rawldrive surprises then back right to the rap stance on Lure of the Sewer.

This wall was bolted and climbed by Crushed and Dave Sargent, but they aided it (19M1) and didn't bother naming it. Start as for 'Terminant Corner'. Climb up the corner and out onto the wall. Hard moves past three bolts lead to the arete and a crack. At the ledge, go up the crack to a good finish which hand traverses left.

The thin brushed wall right of 'Singularity' with four bolts. A dirty finish leads to a bolt belay on a mossy ledge. Rap off.

Wall climbing up the prominent and steep water streak five metres left of 'Watermelon in Easter Hay'. Up past two bolts and numerous wire placements, trending slightly left after the second bolt. Belay as for 'Tor'.

Impressive. The fine diagonal crackline on the steep concave face, originally climbed mostly with aid. The free version uses the corner on the right.

Start: on the northernmost substantial boulder of the group, facing 'Legoland'.

A big route threading the major roofs. Quite sustained with brilliant moves through the top overhang. Double ropes, 11 draws and a #2 Friend are the essential items. Start as for Lure of the Sewer and Rising Damp. Left 5m as for Rising Damp, then up into the little V-groove. Follow this up and take the diagonal line to the roof (5 bolts to here). A #2 Friend protects the clip above, then seize the suspect mega-block and pull awkwardly through to good jugs and a bolt on the wall above (good rest on the guano ledge out left). Cross the wall rightwards (crux) to the diagonal crack and another bolt, find the high jug and gut loose left through the final roof onto a sloping ledge. Up and easily right past a final bolt to the rap station at the top of Doppelwandiger. Two ropes to the ground.

Contrived in places and somewhat overtaken by 'Nothing Left', nevertheless a great climb wandering around the water streaks to the left of the 'Prow'. Start 6 metres left of Rubbishman below an easy, scoopy slab.

1. 30m (20) - Up the slab for eight metres to a thin rightwards diagonal, step left and then straight up to the 'Rubbishman' diagonal. Step back right, then up the steep slab past a bolt (clip with wire) to the large ledge. DBB on the right as for 'Place Without a Postcard'.

2. 30m (23) - Back left and up seven metres to a short diagonal for runners (as for 'Rubbishman'). Step left and up the slab to a bolt, then desperately up and right through a bulge to a ledge. Climb over a second bulge, then move right to DBB on the 'Prow'.

3. 30m (22) - Scary. Move back left along the ledge, then up to a bolt at five metres. Straight up the water streak to a jug (level with the tree on the right), then more easily to DBB on a large flat ledge.

4. 20m (18) - Move left along the ledge, then up the slab to the overlap. Pull through this into a short groove, then easily up the mossy rock to a spacious ledge and DBB. Finish as you will.

The gently overhanging off-width on the down hill side of the split boulder.

The obvious brushed line left of 'Derision'. A hard start leads to sustained slab climbing past two bolts. Follow the brushed line left to a third bolt and up past this on flakes. Scramble up the choss to belay.

The short thin crack on a boulder 30 metres below 'My Generation'. Up the awkward thin crack to some hard slabby moves onto a ledge. Move right and up the easy hand crack.

Fine pocket climbing down low and awkward groping past loose blocks in the first overhang. Takes a rightwards line crossing Gutter Crimes at the first roof; double ropes as usual.

1. 15m As for Rising Damp to the two bolt stance.

2. 30m Move right from the belay and climb the wall on deep pockets past 3 bolts, sharing the odd move with Sewer Rat. This will land you under the first roof on Gutter Crimes. Clip the bolt in the groove above and traverse right past another bolt and the suspect blocks, then long reaches right (crux) to big jugs, pockets and a bolt. Continue up past another bolt then some leftwards moves through the final roof to the last bolt on Gutter Crimes. Move right to the rap stance at the top of Doppelwandiger. Two ropes to the ground.

Excellent mostly-bolted crimping and slabbing blasting directly up the water streak, topped off with a sporty top pitch. Take wires and small cams (up to 2.5).

1. 47m (23) - Start as for 'Anything So Nothing'. Up the slab for a few metres to a diagonal crack, over this and follow the 'Rubbishman' diagonal left for a few moves. Climb straight up the streak on the wall up to a bolt, right and up past a second, then diagonally up left to a #1 friend in break (long sling), back right and continue up streak past three bolts to the bulge, straight over this (bolt) to a stance and double bolt belay.

2. 50m (22) Straight up the water streak past five bolts to a flat ledge and rap anchor at 30 metres. Belay here if you want to finish up 'Take It All'. Otherwise trend slightly left up slab (as for the fourth pitch of 'Anything So Nothing') to overlap (#2 friend). Over the overlap at a broken flake and up dirty rock to a large ledge with double bolt belay - a rope stretching 50 metres, if in doubt use the first belay.

3. 38m (21) - Off block right of the high rap anchor and up short cracks into left diagonal. Up wall past two bolts to jug and #1 Friend in diagonal overlap. Over this (#2 friend) and up easing wall and slab to bolt where slab steepens. Left past this to top of pillar and over blocks and ledges to double bolt belay on top.

This and the following climbs can be accessed by continuing past 'Plutarch' to where the track descends steeply beneath an orange wall. Turn right and scramble uphill until you reach a left facing black corner with an orange wall on the right.

Thin and technical bridging straight up the obvious corner.

At the left end of the wall. Up the brushed groove and crack past a bolt. A fixed #3 RP was flogged, so take your own...

A devious climb which weaves around some big overhangs. Double ropes and some long slings will save major rope drag.

1. 15m Rising Damp to the two bolt stance.

2. 30m Up to the first bolt on Mission Brown, then right and up the corner past 3 more bolts to the hanging groove on Gutter Crimes. Up this (#2 Friend below the roof and a long sling to the bolt) and left onto the guano ledge [there's a two finger pocket in the roof left of Gutter Crimes groove for anyone who wants to take the route straight through...]. Clip another bolt (long sling) then out to the arete. Up past a high bolt (crux) to a thin crack (#1 rock) then up and right to the belay on Mission Brown.

3. 10m Stroll right to the rap stance above Doppelwandiger.

Another extreme and superb climb. Start at the incipient crack on the steep wall approximately 10 metres left of 'Rubbishman'. Up the crack to a tiny ledge, then slightly right through a slippery bowl (look closely for RP slots). Continue up the wall as for 'Rubbishman', mantle, reachy bolt, then move left around the arete. Trend leftwards up the RP protected slab to double bolt belay as for 'Closer In' P1. Three sets of RPs isn’t overkill.

The prominent corner crack with flared start.

Originally done with a large cairn (pyramid) and stick to avoid the start, as well as a rest on the third bolt. Start five metres right of Apparitions of a Film Star, below the steep orange wall. The first two bolts are badly positioned. Climb past the first bolt with minor difficulty, then cruise to the top.

Natural gear - very technical.

Good wall climbing up the arete about three metres left of 'Gingerman'. Up to the only bolt, then trend left around the arete and up the slabby wall above.

Pity it isn't longer. Stolen from Mike Peck. Belay at the comfy ledge and double bolts on Nothing Left P2. The climbing starts on the vertical wall to the right. Interesting knobs and layaways up the wall past about seven bolts. Step right around the arete and desperately up the slab past two more bolts. A rap anchor here lets you lower off and do another route; otherwise head right and continue easily to top.

A little bit of everything. Stick clip the first bolt. Up face to undercling, swing round the arete, up the crack and finish with a slab. Trad belay on the opposite side of the boulder. Gear to red camalot.

The first five metres is the crux, and may be impossible as the critical dinner-plate-sized mantleshelf flake peeled off sometime after the 2003 fires. The first pitch starts under the black slab six metres left of 'Stele Breeze'. The second pitch is still climable and can be toproped from a trad belay mid-way between Counterbalance and Equilibrium.

1. 45m (22+) - Straight up to join 'Solantic' and 'Stele Breeze' then left to DBB on the 'Equilibrium' ledge. Leave your rack with your second.

2. 40m (17) - Move right for 3 to 4 metres, find the nut placement that is the only pro, then straight up the slab just right of the dark brown water stain. The climbing eases off after 30m.

Start at the chimney 10 metres left of 'Moonsong'. Chimney and pull onto the right face below a short diagonal crack (small wires). Step up to the bolt and gain the arete for the final moves.

A popular four pitch route on the Central Slab. The first two pitches make an excellent moderate grade slab route - finish up Outer Limit, Rooty Hill or Dry Route, or bail left up the gully. Look for the bolts above a pillar, although the original set has been slightly pruned.

1. 50m (19/22) - Start from the ledge approximately 40 metres left of 'Place Without a Postcard', where a pillar leans against the face. Up the left side of the pillar and then onto the steep wall following bolts. Straight up the overlap (22) or step left and meander back (19). Move right and up past numerous bolts and sickle shaped crack to double bolt belay (shared with 'Rubbishman', 'Extreme Youth' et al.).

2. 50m (20) - Step up and left, up the flake, then straight up past two bolts. At the third bolt traverse left and slightly up to the fourth bolt. Continue up past a couple more bolts to a bolt belay at a small scoop.

3. 25m (22) - The easiest line up the steep blocky wall past two bolts, with a hard move to gain the slab. Double bolt belay to the right on the ledge.

4. 35m (19) - Up the corner then right to easy ground (shared with 'Space Wasted').

danger

Just another unprotected slab route to fill in the space. Start off some big flakes about 7m left of 'Rock Lobster' and 8m right of 'Tip Stripper'. It was inspected on top-rope before the first (solo) ascent.

Climb the slab above the large flake to the obvious scoops in the steep wall. Up the wall to easier ground then up, right of the lichen, to join Solantic near the belay.

Takes the bulging wall with twin thin cracks to the right of 'Hey Jude', past one bolt to join 'Scarborough Fair'.

Takes a steeper and harder line right of A Little Dab'll Do Ya. Start at the tree and climb straight up past a crack and right to a bolt; move left and up to the sling belay below Dangermouse.

A superb hand crack which overhangs by about two metres. Can be very difficult to find the first time. It's more or less directly downhill from Mushroom Rock and probably further down than you'll be expecting.

The whole route is protected with 0.75, 1, and 2 cams (or hexs if you want to make life hard), so take multiples. The belay accepts a variety of gear, and a 10m bit of rope/cordalette is handy to set up a loweroff for dogging. To get down at the end, tie the rope to a tree on one side of the boulder and rap off the other side.

A very good route, although some of the climb (the second and part of the third pitches) is borrowed from existing routes and there was some dispute as to the style of the first ascent. The orange corner above the slabs (the fourth pitch) is in a superb position. Start seven metres left of 'Closer In' and just left of 'Megajules'.

1. 20m (23) - Boulder up to a bolt, trend right to some jugs, and follow them left to a second bolt. Move directly over a small bulge to a ledge.

2. 35 metres (16) Straight up easier slabs and overlaps to belay at a large scoopy ledge (shared with 'Jubilate' and 'Crimble Cromble').

3. 50m (20) Superb slab climbing. Venture onto the huge upper slab as for third pitch of 'Crimble Cromble', but where that climb exits right, continue up pitch two of 'Closer In'. Belay on the right beneath the overhanging orange corner (originally done without the bolts on 'Closer In'!)

4. 15m (22) - up the orange corner with a difficult exit on the left.

5. 35m (19) - Up the corner, then right to easy ground (shared with 'Closer In').

Another gap filler, but with a bolt for a bit of variety. Up the slab then the steep wall left of the bolt (crux), over the bulge to easier ground. Can be top-roped from the Equilibrium belay.

Good thin slab climbing up the cleaned strip to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Start on top of some blocks six metres to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Up the wall and flake to the ledge. Step up and right, and clip two bolts on the way to the top.

A worthless contrived mantle first done with a backrope. Start right of 'Fat Like Me'. Up the slab to a horizontal break, then directly up the wall above with a short slab to finish.

The amazing line of disconnected cracks splitting the blunt arête.

danger

Start about 6m left of 'Tip Stripper' and 7m right of 'Equilibrium Direct Start'. The line is about 4m right of a thin light brown water mark. Climb the slab to the break then up the steep wall (diabolical unprotected crux) to easier ground after a few metres. Can be top-roped from the Equilibrium belay.

Exciting. Originally M4, the free version follows a slightly different line. Start in 'The Pits' proper, below the obvious lines about five metres right of 'Parole'. Subtle moves at half height lead to layaways up the left-hand line. Clip a bolt from the ledge, and up.

Originally un-bolted, which caused some controversy when the climb was retroed! An unlikely line up the sustained wall three metres left of Integral Crack. Straight up the wall following the line of least resistance. Originally protected using Integral Crack, it now goes on the bolts - with a couple of finger cams adding extra protection.