Routes as sport in Central Tablelands

Good steep fun with a low crux. Belay off low first bolt, and stick clip 2nd bolt. At 4th bolt do a hard traverse right along break then up (Don't get suckered going straight up to razor jugs). Bolts are in good condition.

Shared start with Rooky of the Year then left line of bolts. Anchors on slab kill your rope lowering off.

Steep start on jugs then a bit of an odd section weaving left up a shield, then back right (mantle!). Now finishes direct to new seperate lower-off anchors (it originally traversed way off right into Gregs Route). Rebolted 2021.

1st route on the ledge. Above and right of fixed rope. Rebolted July 2021

Stick-clip the high first bolt. Boulder through opening sequence then head out right and up the nice water washed rock.

The most popular route at Atlantis. Starts at far right end of fixed ropes. Very featured rock reminiscent of Logan Brae.

Bouldery start

Great rock and cool roof move - one of the best here. Unlike most routes off this ledge, this one has a nice pleasant juggy start.

Righthand route off the ledge. Belay off bolts to the left. Rebolted 2019

The easiest route at Atlantis - about 3 grades easier than the "19". Pretty fun despite appearances. Left of the slab routes - with a couple of sinker pockets to start then a juggy flake and wall.

Right of the slab routes. Very hard start for 19.

Technical climbing with lots of air, followed by an easier second pitch. Abseil down (45m) to hanging rap station as for Ordinary route access. Suggest you leave the rope there for retreat. Take 10 draws.

1. 20m (23) Lurch left off belay to flake, keep scuttling left a few moves then head diagonally up slab past funkiness on arete.

2. 30m (20) Up delicate and sportingly bolted wall.

Sportingly bolted multi-pitch route, recently with a rebolting effort that eliminates the majority of the original Mikl quirkyness. All ringbolts, but a couple of bolt plates can be handy at belays. Sun until 3pm and protected from westerly winds.

Starts about 20m L of where you land if you used the dedicated abseil route. It's also possible to rap the route from the trees above the route using a long rope (120m) and a couple of rope protectors.

1. 45m (22) Easy grey slab for a couple of bolts then several frustrating undercut lip boulder problems in a row all the way to small ledge belay. About 14 bolts.

2. 30m (23) A great pitch. Bouldery start off the belay then radical orange wall. Belay at shale break.

3. 35m (24) Hard move straight off the ledge then left a bit along ledge then sustained orange wall above. When the wall slabs off, trend a bit right and mantle onto loose sloping ramp. Belay at back of ledge at two FHs and carrot.

4. 10m (12) Trashy little pitch up the flake crack with one FH and burnt out tree on lip. Belay 5m back off tree anchor.

Awesome, steep, exposed, the line immediately to the left of the prominent black streak. Outrageous climbing in the most exposed position in the Bluies. Fix a rope and rap down as for Scurvy, Stiletto etc, down the initial slab (pitch 2) and then over the sucking void clipping many bolts as you go to stay in contact with the wall. After approx. 70m you'll arrive on the major ledge which has a series of belays along it. Anchor in to some of the bolts on the left but belay from the position with the single bolt next to an empty bolt hole (???).

The FA was climbed from the ground via Red Edge and Red Edge Variant.

1. 45m (29) The absolute money. Good rock, rad moves, and very spaced bolts. Monkey your way through the awesome steep jugs to a long, sustained, and desperate crux section. Fire this, take a rest, and bust out one more tricky sequence to the choss cave. Congratulations, you're halfway there. Steel thyself and clench thy teeth as you bust out another long section of sustained steepness to finally collapse at the anchor wide eyed and drained of all energy. Classic. 10 bolts.

2. 25m (?? easy) This pitch has no bolts but looks very easy. Either embrace the death solo or consider traversing across to one of the equally easy looking alternate exit pitches. Or jug out.

Lots of arêtes, beautifully sunny in winter, shady after 2pm in summer. All U's, take 14 draws and water. Start at corner about 8-10m R of where the abseil lands.

1. 35m (25) Up corner and left onto arete. Then walk/scramble 20m up and left on the slopey ledge to the orange corner at top left.

2. 45m (22) Climb main corner for a few bolts, then drift right to arêtes. When you get to the capping roof step R to DRB.

3. 25m (25) Out left and up arete over sucking void. Make sure second (and probably leader too) has prussicks or something similar.

4. 45m (18) Up slabs and walls. Belay on left end of ledge.

5. 45m (23) Continuously diagonal climbing right and up to rap station.

Consumer classic and the easiest route up this part of Perrys! Bring 12 draws, 2 x 50m ropes and zero bolt hangers.

Start: Rap 50m as per DwD to anchor. Then rap 45m down and rightish to double bolt belay next to big tree and large ledge.

1. 40m (22) Thin technical face for 20m, then easier grey slab interspersed with two annoying Bluies shale band mantles. Belay at rings on ledge (ignore the double rings 2m below which you climb past).

2. 20m (20) Move up and left of the belay and into supa orange rock to rest. Punch up steep prow to semi hanging belay next to little tree.

3. 40m (21) Up the left side of long exposed arete to tricky mantle. Finish for the final few bolts with DwD.

Awesome, varied, beautiful in winter, catches the sun. Start: Easiest to rap down Date With Density (requires 2 x 50m+ ropes) and walk right 70m. You can also rap the route, however there is no top anchor (or quality rap-tree), thereby making this tricky.

If rapping the route: From the top of the Date With Density rap area, continue another 80m (consider roping up) along the sketchy ledge / hanging swamp. Down fixed rope for 20m, and either establish an abseil-anchor off the bottom of the fixed rope, or sling 50 shrubs together. Rap 1: 30m to ledge and DUB (Double U-Bolt Belay), below a bulge. Rap 2: 30m to DUB on the arete. Rap 3: 15m swing right (looking in) to DUB below rooflet. Rap 4: 50m to monster ledge. Rap 5: Walk down scree for 15m then rap 53m off big tree to deck (leave sling if using 50m ropes) and walk around R to corner/chimney to start. If abseiling the route, consider cleaning the crux pockets on P1, as they acquire dirt.

Start below chimney slot, left of stunning thin crack (ORANGE JAM / This is Your Brain On Crack).

1. 22m (23/24) Start up twin-crack/chimney for 8m then trend L to DRB on ledge. 6 UBs.

2. 35m (22/23) Awesome sustained climbing up long arête. Belay off bomber tree just below vegetated scree-slope. About 9 UBs. (Note, Pitch 1 & 2 can be combined (17 UBs) with 70m rope).

3. 50m (23) Corner, grovel through some loose rock, then trend L to some of the best face climbing in the mountains. A fantastic pitch. Sustained, but with no real hard move. Easier than P1. 12 U-bolts.

4. 45m (22) Very cruxy. Grab roof flake then a very exposed cut loose above the void, to turn the lip. Much easier climbing up arete to DUB at 15m. Belay here if your second doesn't want 45m of rope stretch if they come off the roof move. Or, go another 30m up easy arête to DUB at back of cave. At least 10 U-bolts.

5. 30m (22) Blast thru fun, juggy roof/bulge past 3 UBs, then easily up right side of arete and into scrubby top-out. No anchor or sturdy belay tree. Either sling a bunch of shrubs, or belay off the bottom of the fixed hand-over-hand rope 5m above the topout. 6 U-bolts.

Exit up the fixed rope through vertical sword grass for 20m then left along hanging swamps for 80m to the usual walk-out. This walk-off is a bit sketchy - you might like to walk roped up 50m apart until the DWD rap point, so at least there'd always be a big tree below your rope to hopefully stop you from taking the 200m lob if you slip or the swamp collapses underfoot.

The top 2 pitches of BB are worth doing in their own right, with simple single 50m rap access. Some of the most perfect orange sandstone in the Blueys.

Start: Rap in 50m as for the top rap of DwD. Belay on ledge.

1. 40m (22) Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

2. 15m (21) Start up on more sweet orange rock. Rad mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

The left of the two with three short pitches.

1. 12m (23) Follow bolts up to belay ledge.

2. 20m (22) Good climbing up past numerous bolts.

3. 15m (21) Hardish moves and hidden bolt off the belay, then up to lower-off. Lower back to 2nd belay and rap 30m to ground.

The right climb.

1. 12m (23) Stick clip first bolt to avoid choss-induced fear then head right and up to belay ledge.

2. 20m (24) Up left of belay and up blunt arete to belay.

3. 15m (21) Up and slightly left to lower-off. Lower off to 2nd belay then rap 30+m to ground.

Rap in down The Opportunistic Pathogen and swing left to reach belay anchors about 5m left of that route. Up long wall to anchors about 5m below the cliff-top - ignore them and traverse hard right along break and up to top anchors you rappped in on.

Long clean face directly under the rap anchors. Rap down - climb up! Crux is in the first half then hang on for the ride up splendid orange jugs. For some reason this got zero stars in the print guides - it is a quality route - solid 2 stars.

Sustained face climbing with some pretty cool water polished rock. Rap in down The Opportunistic Pathogen and swing right to bolt belay below crackline. The route starts easily up this bolted crackline (shared with JVD) then takes a leftwards diagonal line up thin wall to eventually join The Opportunistic Pathogen for the last couple of bolts. The top section is a touch dirty from runoff but the holds you pull on are clean.

Stellar route up long orange face reminiscent of Bentrovarto Wall (but twice as long). There are so many cruxes by the time you reach the end of this you will have forgotten the first 25m. Has it's own bottom belay anchors about 5m left of Rocket Girl. Fix rap rope and swing left easily. The route is independent for about 11 bolts then joins the last 3 and top belay of Rocket Girl.

More quality endurance wall climbing. Fix rap rope to double bolts on the small slab of rock about 10m back from cliff edge. Rap down to reasonable sized ledge. This is the left line of bolts with a shared start.

Airily bolted and very thin. Shared start with Rocket Girl then right line of bolts. The top out is quite exciting as there is no top belay bolt to calm your nerves before the mantle. Belay way back on the slab.

Cruxy crimpy start then long endurncy wall climbing. Starts on low ledge down right of Chemotherapy. The top third of this route is quite dirty but juggy and still fine to climb. Double bolt belay at top.

Incredible thin face. Must be one of the king lines of the Bluies. Does it actually have any holds? Get on it and try! First bolted in the late 90s so it is open for anyone to try.

Good climbing and even better position. Unlike some routes around here this has closely spaced bolts suitable for the terrified. Route starts from a hanging belay halfway up the Tiger Stripe Wall. To approach it fix a 60m rope to bolts on small slab of rock about 20m back from cliff edge (this slab only two bolts on it). Rap to cliff edge and top belay bolts (the furthest left of two sets on this end of Tiger Stripe Wall). Rap down the wall to a large scoop and the bottom belay bolts that are not visible from the top.

Shared belay and start with Advanced Air then straight up the wall. Very pumpy! All ringbolts - but you will need bolt plates for top and bottom belay.

The wildly exposed arete at the right hand end of the wall. Well-protected, sustained face climbing just left of the arete proper, with average quality rock.

Originally graded 19, but may have gotten harder as holds snapped off and/or due to grade inflation. The bottom and top belay require bolt plates - the lead bolts are all rings.

From the lookout, head left down the hill along the cliffline (towards hanging rock) until approx 10m from the end of the ridge (the first rock platform back from the end of the ridge). Fix a rope and rap ~35m from here in the direction of Pierces Pass to a ledge (single fixed hanger rap anchor and bollard south of where you rap, can be backed up with sm-med cams underneath the platform). At the western end of the ledge (towards hanging rock) is the belay for the end of P2 of The Black Rose. Rap 25m down this to a semi-hanging belay, and again 20m down the very steep 1st Pitch (clip the rope through all the bolts on the way down) to fully hanging belay 150m off the deck.

P1 20m (27) - Up using arete and right face, with bouldery thin crux from the 2nd bolt. Easier sustained climbing above to semi-hanging belay. ~7 bolts.

P2 25m (20) - Up vertical and slabby face right of the arete to belay on big ledge. Bit runout on 3 bolts.

Would probably be better as single pitch.

Ascend fixed rope and top out. About Gr. 16.

Intimidating and aesthetic face climbing. This really is the wild, wild west! Bring 15 bolt plates and 17 quick draws (6 of them should be long runners!)

Rap 50m down the top pitch of Burramoko Buttress (off various trees and bollards) to ledge with ring-bolt in the corner (back up off wires and rap-rope).

Traverse across Oranges and Lemons to Ring bolt, then follow 14 spaced carrot bolts up the wall to double ring-bolt loweroff.

An 80m rope can JUST get back to the belay on loweroff. This route wanders quite a bit, so two ropes OR minimum 6 long-runners are essential to managing drag.

Start as for Human Cannonball and traverse right on lip instead of going up. Up from last bolt. Many bolts.

A brutal piece of body wrenching roof climbing, with an accuracy demanding pounce. 'The sword' in the stone next to the anchors will decide the true king.

Ridiculous steepness for the grade. Steep pocketed start through right side of the left most of the Gateway caves. Finish with airy traverse right to anchors. Backjump or second to clean. Rebolted 2019.

A true battle for the first ascent, a clash of horns between two galiant titans, the victor will be forever etched in history, while the defeated lad is not worth mentioning.

Pack your shorts full of rocket powder and cast off into the unknown, where you'll find rad boulder moves and shiney golden eyes, power through the bulge and fly to freedom.

Beware the evil eyes are apon you. The frost covered ground will show you the path, take gentle steps. The gorgeous rock will hold your hand your mind concerned only with the foot you must land.

Deemed impossible by many who've tried. An iron will and mastery of the mind is all that is in common with ascensionists of this climb.

Cool jumpers and wooly lockin'.strip clubs the world over will sing your praise.

Tricky clip, squeeze hard it will be over soon, you'll be back at work and will long for the chance to once again dance apon the rocks.

Don't concentrate on the anchor's or you will miss all the heavenly glory. Only a fool spends his time attempting to see into the future rather than see into the present.

The best warm up here.

Traverse the lip to finish at 'Middle Earth' anchors.

Start: Starts up 'The Amateur'.

Around the corner in the White Cave.

Committing start (or stick-clip high ring) leads to great climbing (heady, reachy, pumpy) on experimental shaped U-bolts. Or maybe they're V-bolts?

Thin start, best to take a wire to help clip first carrot. Bring bolt plates x12

The vague arete on left of the wall. Thinking of Mike climbing this on trad will make you cringe. On bolts, it's quite nice climbing.

A series of mantles leads to the bit you want to climb -- the scoopy overhung top.

Hard start.

Start: Under the bulges

5m R of RW.

Start on yellow wall under bulges 7m R of HKC. Athletic moves through roof to a moment of indecision... left or right? Both options are bolted. Then an 8m runout for no good reason, and a nice finish.

Fun juggy lefthand arete of the buttress.

Desperate crux can be McDougalled right - knocks off a couple of grades.

The most popular route on the wall - hits the Mtns sweet spot of lots of bolts and grade 18. Starts in middle of wall at tree.

A bit of a classic. The central flake feature up the guts of the wall. Guess where the crux is? (hint - the bolts show the way). The sport route ends at a nice lower-off - but the original line actually left from here to a belay and then carried on to the top with very minimal gear!

Fiendish thin slimp ladder. Start at chalky flake then up dark orange wall with forearms increasingly fading.

The steep, sandy corner/flake. As a sport route it has lower offs at 15m. You can continue another 30m to the top with minimal (no) gear!

Exposed and steep arete - all ringbolts. Best to use double ropes to stop rope cutting potential as some of the moves are on the opposite side of the arete to the bolts.

To get to the start belay, either climb first pitch of 'Attila', or fix a rope and just rap in from above (easiest) to tiny ledge belay (double rings) about 6m left of the arete. Traverse out right above void (3 rings) - then up the black arete.

Rap in, climb out long wall with a hanging belay. This is High 'n' Wild's 50m abseil! Fix a rap rope and abseil straight down the front face to belay on lip of roof and tiny ledge for your toes.

The right arete of the buttress. Start either for for Screen Gems (original start), or Long Distance Relationships (better).

1. Up and traverse leftwards to belay on arete.

2. Up technical arete to top.

One of the mountains' finest arete routes - that can be led in either two shorter pitches with a hanging belay - or one long pitch (long runners required). Route was fully rebolted with rings in 2022 - no bolt plates required unless you want to clip one of the old carrots on the halfway belay stance.

Start under the middle of the awesome front face of the buttress - which is where the abseil lands you. The rubbly stance at the base is above a steep drop into the jungle, but doesn't really require setting an anchor. The belayer can just lean on the tree.

1. 28m (24) Start up poor/dubious rock for 10m (high first bolt left of the small ledge). Traverse left to the arête (improving rock quality). Now strenuously up the arête to an optional hanging belay, off 1 new ring bolt, and 2 old carrots 1 of which is badly positioned and cantilevers the carabiner. Consider pulling up to clip the first lead bolt on pitch 2 to beef up this belay.

2. 30m (23) A stunning pitch. Continue up the fantastic arête to the cave (extend the bolts before and after the cave). Traverse 5m right from the cave (the FHs going straight up from just to the right of the cave is DHMR), to ledge. Now straight up the awesome steep crimpy face finish.

Links the start of Teenage 'Werewolf' into Teenage NB.

Start: Through choss off bottom ledge. At 3m step right and head straight up.

The middle route on the face. Rebolted 2004

Start: Rap down the centre of the face. Route starts at the chain belay for Teenage 'Werewolf'.

The lefthand arete (facing out). Needs rebolting.

Start: Rap in from rings on the left of the butress (facing out).

1. 25m (24) As for TfCIA but head right through choss to the arete and belay.

2. 30m (22) Up the arete to the top.

Climbs a beautiful, vibrant red overhanging face in one enormous pitch. Marred by sections of rubbish rock and several chipped pockets.

1. 51m (27) Runout short corner (optional wires/small cams) 4m left of the arete, and 2m right of IMaMFOS. Up past 23 rings with desperate moves to the anchor.

2. 9m (18) Step right from the anchors, then a few punchy moves up the slab to the top of the buttress.

squeezed in there

Rebolted 2006. Quite contrived as the difficulty depends on whether you bridge out onto the adjacent wall.

quite strenuous

go up Urako to 1st bolt, traverse left, then head up to lower offs between arete and Urako.

an excellent extension to dress rehearsal rag

Popular & thoughtful first pitch.

1. 15m (17) Rising traverse past 4 carrots to ledge. Solid at the grade.

2. 20m (21) Rarely done through steepness above. Not a sport pitch.

Thin slab. Start: Marked IRA.

Hard slippery move off ground then much easier jugs to ledge belay. Bring at least 5 bolt plates - three for lead bolts, and a couple for the bolt belay on the ledge. Rap 30m from Just for Fun lower-offs.

Start: As for 'Honey Dip'.

1. 30m (15) A sport pitch. Clip first bolt on 'Honey Dip', stem across gap. Right to middle of face, up veering right to cave. Across void onto arete. Inside of arete to ledge (rings - double rope abseil!)

2. 20m (-) Up, veer right through overhang to ramp.

Proud black arete. Best to start on the left side of the scoops at short flake crack past a BR (shared start with E Racer). The rest has been rebolted with rings - but still worth bringing a # 4 and # 0.75 cam for the runout easy middle section. Can be finished two ways - both the same grade. The original finish heads left up the cleaner streak away from the arete for the last two bolts (same finish as E Racer). The arete direct is still really good climbing but a little mossier.

Great technical slab/face climb. Since the 'rebolt' it should be renamed Flakes as you no longer get any Shakes! If you were lucky to have done it before the 'rebolt' consider yourself lucky to have experienced one of the best routes of the 'old' mountain tradition. Only one bracket required for the high first bolt - the remaining are FHs and rings.

The wall directly below the lower-off for Shakes and Flakes - shares the top 2 bolts of that route. No brackets required. About 7 or 8 bolts.

Blank, but with hidden holds. Just left of Let's Nail God - and shares that routes easy slab start and first high ringbolt. Once established on the main wall weave around on good edges and small pockets to exciting finish just right of arete to lower-offs. The original version traversed right above the anchors across mossy slab to join into top of Shakes and Flakes - this is still possible but requires a long runner.

Slightly obscured from view as it starts from a high ledge. Grovel up wide crack or bolted undercut arete on the left then dawdle up 5m of ledges to begin the real climbing on the left wall. Orange scoops (U-bolts) then head out to join Cheap Skate's arete with FHs. Lower-off. No bolt plates required.

Black arete on FHs about 7m left of No Pants. Stick-clip high first bolt for bouldery start off cairn (shared start moves with 327). This can be climbed as a sport route if you don't mind 5m runouts on easy ground - don't forget 1 hanger for lone hidden carrot (?!) about halfway up the arete. Best to rap rather than lower from the anchors as the rope gets trashed over edge.

A line of rings on the rap ledge. Splits into a left project (looks good) and right line (no tag, so must be done.

Short and steep.

Start: Directly above the FHs for rap into 'Catch the Wind'.

1. 12m (-)

2. -m (-)

Straight up the centre of the gorgeous overhung orange wall five or so metres right of and around the arete from Catch the Wind. The middle line of the shared start. Difficult moves getting established on to the wall (there is often a cairn) and then excellent consistent climbing on lovely rock all the way to the top. You can lower off the bolts on the wall above the top out without rope issues.