Routes as sport in Illawarra and Shoalhaven

An exciting excursion and esiest line through the big roof. Start as for Myopia and follow the line of bolts right and up the headwall.

The first slabby half of 'Panthera' finishing below the chossy cave. Quality marbled rock all the way but without traffic it gets sand from above on the holds.

The Mosquito Slap of New Nowra - an epic wall with some sections of choss, but very well bolted. First 3 bolts of Tiger Tales then traverse left and up marbled wall on excellent rock to first set of anchors. Continue up steep and exposed right side of chossy cave to final pumpy juggy finish as for Tiger Tales. Watch rope length on lower-off!

Start: 2m right in gully finishing on New Nowra is Old News anchors.

On left hand arete of turtle wall, laybacking the crack to start and some nice climbing with an exciting finish.

Just right of New Nowra is Old News. Straight up.

Runs through left edge of cavelet. Straight up to ring lower-offs.

Blinded by the White direct finish with a really long span from good pocket to sidecling. Not yet bolted but worked on top-rope. Will be in the high 20s.

Amazing limestone like pockets makes for some very cool climbing. Start left of hanging garden. Juggy steep start rightwards to sequency magic pockets. After these crank bulge then final pumpy headwall on large pockets and crimps. Amazing all the way.

Very unique for sandstone and quite sustained. Lots of great holds - the top half is French limestone like solution pockets, all facing downwards! Bouldery start over the undercut, then up the orange rock on flaky pockets to horizontal. Left and up into the perfect pockets with some incredible undercling moves to gain the steep juggy orange jugs to finish out right. Suffers from heavy seepage on one hold near the top of the route.

Not yet bolted, but looks about 28ish.

Hard campus start mounting undercut, then thin moves to bigger pockets. Head right up tasty orange slots to arete. For the full tick climb past the anchors using sneaky knee-bar to higher hold on arete (anchor should have been here). Backjump to anchor.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Pocket Rocket'

Immaculate rock and a slick slopey crux. Stem up tree for a metre to gain rock then take left line of bolts up very nice pocketed grey wall to blankness and big bolt. Sneak left to find hidden pocket, fiffle with some sketchy feet then back right to big sloper pocket. Long move then finish up orange bulge. If you lower-off the big bolt at the half-way point its a classic grade 16.

Great face climbing on crimps and pockets. Middle line of bolts on this wall, starting as for Lost for Profit. Lower off single large u-bolt when the rock turns blank.

Black pockets to gain slab - then right line of bolts to hit left end of roof crack. Jam up corner crack and finish with powerful sloper mantle finale on gorgeous orange rock.

Start: Starts 10m right of 'Pocket Rocket' right of the big tree.

Batman Start 4m left of Evil E. A Pumper! Awesome!

5m right of 'Sun Dew' and right of major corner. Boulder over the undercut, up the jugs then traverse right across steep face to punchy finish. 'Fantastic' rock.

The right hand route. Sweet moves to good rest then bouldery crux... awesome

Start from the left side of the wall. Move right on good holds to big dyno then tough moves to the top...stay out of the cave!!

Start at the only breach of the roof 5m left of Supernova. Fun and pumpy climbing with a punchy start. Climb the roof then follow the direct line to the top.

Technical slab climbing. Start 10m left of Boogie Nights. Route has two holes in the bulge up high. Climb slab to tricky mid section then bulge above.

Great climbing with a low down crux and good rock. May the force be with you.

Start: When you walk out of the bottom of the access slot this is the first route on the main wall.

Great climb, though you will need to read the rock to get through sections without having to bust your arse cranking some hard stuff.

Start: Under easy blocky arrangement that access the left side of the ledge that runs across the middle of the cliff.

This route shares the start off the ledge with two others and follows the left line of bolts.

Start: Shares same start as 'Trilobutt' to the ledge.

Top break to break climbing. Not completely bolted by the Aliens who were scared off before they could glue the bolts into the rock. Now sports more rings than a poofters camp.

Start: As for the Bum-eyed Bumosaur though this route is the direct line.

Great climbing up a really nice orange streak of hard rock.

Start: Third route in the off the ledge trilogy. This is the right hand one.

Great climbing break to break. Which translates to OK if you have the reach but can be a little technical if you bum drags close to the ground.

Start: At the right hand side of the ledge are various lines of bolts that you can follow to get to the ledge. Choose one that will limit the rope drag as this climb goes up the left side of the crack.

This route goes up right of the crack for pure fun!!?

Start: At one of the lines of bolts that will get you to the ledge.

This route was established by the Alien Visitation Crew who stuck bolts in over the top and screwed it up for a lower off. They also had British steel balls and ran it out between bolts so i fixed all that rubbish.

Start: In the corner at the right hand side of the ledge. Same place as the previous two routes.

Another route established by the AVC with no top anchors except the ones way over the top past the crud. Great bit of rock when you get onto it. Top anchors added later for your convienience.

Start: On slab to the right of 'Muscle Thruster'.

Bolted by the RAT in his come back days but proved a bit too stiff. Start at the crack as for 'Plasto Bambola'. Go right? Graded 25 on the ACA guide. Who knows if it's even been done?

Up Rock Shoxs to the first bulge then head left to the obvious pocket the up to anchors.

Impressive steep arete, overhung on both sides. Bolts still good as at 2020. Fantastic easier climbing to a stout final section.

Short punchy face. This is NOT a three star route. Maybe one star.

A super classic - and probably the best route around this grade on the sea cliffs. Do it!

Start: Abseil in from carrot and cams for backup. Start on the left hand side of the wall below the rings. Take some trad gear as well to supplement the bolts if you are not confident at the grade. That said, hanging around to place gear might mean you miss the tick! Falls are safe from the crux.

Warning: As of 4/1/18, the fixed hanger at the anchor is loose and needs replacing.

Ring-bolted arete with awesome pockets.

Ring bolts a couple of metres right of Neptune.

Clip first bolt of FL, then make way to arete passing another bolt. Follow arete passing 8 more bolts with one hidden around the left. Apparently grade 26 if you don't use the holds on the left of arete (but given one of the bolts is around there... .

Pull up to reach the under side of the roof. Easy holds to progress but very hard on the hands with conglomerate type rough rock.

Jump on to the ledge for a fun bouldery move to pull your self up into a nice rest position, then easy onwards with more rest positions. Two chains for anchor.

Pull up the flake to reach the ledge on good holds then power along the traverse. Sustained and powerful.

Delicate moves to a nice pocket larger then the one on SMW then over the ledge to decent rails and pockets to the top ledge.

Possibly a harder first few moves then PB, delicate pulling to a less-than-stellar pocket then big reach to the ledge rails then onwards through more rails and pockets to the top ledge.

A pretty sustained and pumpy warm-up. Two chains for anchor.

The steep crack/seam behind the palm tree.

2 bolts to chains.

Graded 17 ... going on 21!

Uses the lone ringbolt in the middle of the climbs for a linkup!

Goes from Scarlet Dog into Little Boxer Girl or vice versa - formerly 'Scarlet Poodles'. (Name change to save confusion - no link to Crashing Poodles.)

Left side of the arete.

Right side of the arete.

Line of rings going straight up left of TG16 and right of Bamboozled. Another name for Sword Swallowing Cum Junkies?

Start RH edge of cave at bottom, working up flake, then traverse left above cave and over bulge. Then straightish up.

Classic sand jug pulling.

Start: Left of TG16 at line of rings. Almost shared start with Bamboozled, but straight up. I think it's also called 'Pasty Poofs', although the latter gets a bonus grade.

All ring bolted classic

Up wall for a couple of moves then reachy span to arête. Up to ledge then cool head wall above.

Up flake to steep corner and ledge then launch up overhanging arête to lower offs.

A pleasant romp on good holds.

Start: Start just left of the arete on teh left end of Indian wall.

Enjoyable climbing.

Start: Start below the big cave.

A hell of a desperate number - especially in summer!

Starts on the left side of the descent gully. Up the orange ramp to the high first bolt. Good moves through the cave lead to an awkward and pumpy finish.

Starts to the right of the descent gully. Enjoy the sloperd.

An enjoyable short route with an interesting dyno on great rock. Pity it's so short, add a sit start to make this climb a little more worthwhile.

Has been rebolted and has new lower offs

Short but worthwhile, add the sit start for the full tick.

Has been rebolted with new lower offs

4 or 5 moves on incuts.

Short ledge left of the left hand wall block arete

The first route to the right of the descent gully (facing the cliff). Originally a high boulder problem, then retrobolted. Somewhat desperate (for the first few moves).

An improbable looking blank wall. Don't break that pebble!

Start two metres left of SPK ,moving up to follow the 5 RB's to anchor. Single U bolt lower off.

Stiff at grade 20.

Probably the most popular route at Nowra at the grade. Great friction work.

Start left of the cave as per BD.

Up beside the cave (on its left) as for W, hand traverse across the ridge. Left foot high step onto the lintel to get that 2nd bolt and up you go.

Climb into the cave then up around to the right. Then follow the ringbolts to the top. First bolt is quite high so be careful.