Routes in Illawarra and Shoalhaven for selected grade

A strong and stout line. A propa trad line with some spice.

It has its own double U bolt anchors at the top, back up and left about 5m (facing out) from the rap anchors of Two Boys One Skyhook. It is possible to rap down the line using these.

Pitch 4 (crux) suffers from bad runoff and can be sandy after rain which is shame as its stellar and tricky climbing. A quick brush on the rap down will help for a more enjoyable time.

On the FA the first two pitches were run together. But climbing as two separate pitches as per the topo is better.

Be advised that Pitch 2 has some average rock and is runout. It has a 6-8 m grade 17 runout after the crux (gr 20 and well protected) getting up to the cave. It has initial good trad gear for the crux but traverses left through some brief crozzley rock getting to the cave. The climbing is easy but climb smart and gentle. Ultimately a bolt may be added here.

p1 - 17 p2 - 20 p3 - 18/19 p4 - 22 p5 - 20

The left crack, two metres right of STEB. This climb ascends a pair of cracks in a wall, crossing from the right crack to the left at the start and back to the right crack at the top.

(1) Up criss-crossing like a mad man.

in the middle of wall you rap down 5 mtrs right of over the yard arm slab, thru roof (crux) rest in middle of easier climbing on cams and bolts to a tough finish

A bold black "slab". Mantle start as for Cry Freedom, then climb the black streaked wall about 4m out from the corner to small ledges below the top. Clip old carrot (or new rings) and mantle onto the Upper Ledge. The upper part of this route appears to be shared (and retrobolted) by the more recent sport route Sofa King.

'What's wrong with a mind of my own'. - Dead Kennedys. For those runts without hte genetic gift of reach or crankability, this climb could possibly feel quite hard. HA, HA, HA,

(1) The next groove along from MR more of a face climbing problem than a crank exercise

The wall above The Second Secret. Up past 2 and 2.5 friend and 3 (old) bolts with hard moves past the 2nd bolt. Take large wires. Double bolt belay.

One of the most popular routes on the wall, mainly because it's mostly bolts! Don't be too relaxed though, the bolts are spaced and you need a spot of trad in the middle section (small cams). The moves and rock are fab though. Starts at right end of wall at undercut section. Stickclip first bolt or get a good spot.

Another featureless groove by Claw packed with fixed runners, all three of them. Done complete from innovation to degradation in less than an hour or so, basically a stemming problem.

(1). The groove 3 meters right of PS.

Steep corner 3m right of Raptor, starting on small ledge about 2m above the ocean. There are double rings to belay off. Stem the juggy corner that gets more fused the higher it gets, until forced onto the face on the left wall - then finish through a couple of steep bulges. Once the good rock ends, scramble up the blocky vegetated hill for 10m to belay from rap rings (shared with Raptor). This is a mixed route, take at minimum a single set of cams from finger to fist size (doubles of #2 camalot) + single set of wires and a few long quickdraws. This route was partially retrobolted by mistake, after the first ascentists didn't write up their all-trad ascent.

The left arete of Windjammer Wall. Incredible climbing up one the best aretes at Point Perp. Climb the arête and the face just to the right past lots of carrot bolts, supplemented by occasional medium sized cams. This was originally climbed onsight with no bolts (!) and was later "accidentally" retrobolted. 2 carrots on top.

An amusing mutl-pitch trad adventure up a very scenic sandstone buttress. The first pitch is a bit scary, the second pitch steep and classy and the top pitches a mix of green and gold. Bring a double rack of cams from #4 Camalot to small finger size, a single set of wires and a couple of slings. You'll also want a single 60m lead rope.

1. 15m (21) Start at sandy corner 5m to the left of the rap route (when facing the rock). Belay on top of little rock ledge above ferns. Cautiously up sandy flake to base of fused corner. Bridge up this (fiddly but bomber trad) then hand traverse right to belay ledge and DRB belay. Don't forget the bigger cams.

2. 25m (22) The best pitch of trad near Sydney? From the ledge swing left onto arete to secret hold (and cam placement) then straight up to splitter finger crack. Follow weakness up overhung orange wall, traversing a bit right and then back left to a single bolt. After a cruxy move past the bolt traverse right a metre then another tough move to finish on small ledge on left and DRB belay. If you are keen you could link this into the next pitch.

3. 15m (21 A0) A bit dirty and scary. Right a metre onto face then up to horizontal. Trend left up dug out crack onto slab and up to DRBs and fixed rope. Hand over hand up this rope past blank slab and vegetated slope (!) to DRB on large terrace.

4. 25m (20) Up little corner then traverse right along airy horizontal past high RB and right again to little corner. Stem up this to large vegetated cave. Either bush bash right for 3m then wander up easy corner system to arrive at summit rocks or...

5. 8m (22) Belay in cave at 'hairy rock' DRBs then do the optional finish through juggy roof on left side of cave. Two RBs and tricky mantle out.

The best and most popular route on Thunderbird Wall. Exposure, good bolts and lovely polished orange rock all the way. Starts at right end of wall as for "Fab" then traverse right (crossing Aquamarina) and up large heucos. Mostly bolts but a light trad rack is needed.

'K.C. sux, 3st, & peg scar' are the highlights of this climb. There are also two fixed wires to be found in the groove, one is a Moorhead and the other is a turd, these two pieces of pro plus the associated graffiti make this climb a real classic, worth doing even if you hate the sight of it.

(1) The groove ten metres right of PS.

Superb hanging arete to the right of The Fish Book with slick orange rock. Mostly bolts, but still requires a single set of finger to hand sized cams. This is quite a pumper! (who wants to try the first DWS ascent?). Like the other routes on this wall, once you get to the top of the good steep rock you need to scramble up easy blocky terrain for 10m to the ledge. This route was partially retrobolted by mistake, after the first ascentists didn't write up their route.

Daunting and inspiring trad masterpiece. The left-most thin weakness through the upper headwall. Start 2m L of Icebird. Easily up left facing flake, then juggy wall to final searing seam. Full trad rack from #5 cam to tiny wires. There is an easy section down low with mediocre rock, but adequate protection if you brought the #4-5 cams. Without them your options are either to run it out with a groundfall on the cards, or start up Icebird for 10m then step left.

The right arete of the main wall, starting on ledge system 10m below the main ledge. One bolt and trad.

'Think of a gross name Chunder?' - 'Fuckbars, mate.' Another absolute classic of the area, not too hard but not real easy. It has plenty of scope for fighting with the pro and for making quick progress while doing so.

(1) The crack and groove twenty metres right of RMIV. Up the crack thin laybacking to start then jamming, the crux is getting into the jam crack where good progress can be made to the ledge on the left.

Sustained and well protected wall climbing with characteristic Point Perp buckets and horizontals. Starts 2m left of SS Minnow below thin crack. Face to start, then up juggy crack to unlikely wall and right leading flake. When the holds run out at 20m traverse right to join SS Minnow at its last BR and finish as for that route. Bring a full rack with doubles in the finger/hand sizes plus a #4 camalot to protect the first 5m.

1. 12m (18)

2. 8m (23)

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth A harder better version than the original. Start 2 meters left of Quadrille corner. Bouldery moves to start then straight up vague arete to ledge, continue up the easy ground to the top.

Three carrot anchor in small cave near the top.

Cruising for casual, haunting for the fuk bars and rotating on your rings - the finer points in Sydney, a day on the rock might also be in order.

(1) Start at the crack just to the left of FB. UIp the crack until standing on the obvious foothold, cross over into FB on the left and cruise to the top, thrusting your hands deep into the smooth brown crack?

Starts 5m left of the Jaws corner below the line of FHs. Up wall past three FHs then trad goodness until final climactic flake (BR). Single set of cams protects the rest. Finishes at left set of lower-offs about 4m short of the top of the wall. The single BR above is an open project.

(A linkup has been done: Hate Minnows, 22: Hate Mail to last bolt, but instead head left to SS Minnow anchors, clipping bolt (bolt plate)).

Bouldery, mind pumping finger work up an undercut arete. Start just right of Stratum. Traverse across the face (bolt) to undercut arete and up to ledge and bollard. Easily up or rap off

The classic layback pump out of the area cos it's the only one ear. Good climbing up a steep corner crack and just when you thought you have had it - BLAMMO? - up comes a good rest.

(1) The next crack along from Sex, as the crack degenerates into worthlessness cut out right to get into the wide top chimney.

Start on the right-hand side of the middle arete of Windjammer Wall - 5m right of Jaws. Up the wall and then arete passing bolts and cams. Move around to the R-side of the arete after clipping final bolt. Take lots of brackets. Double ring belay.

This is really only a wall climbing start to SC. Protected by two good bolts it gives good face climbing on very slippery holds until it joins slope city at the roof. If you think you're climbing this route and you've got one hand in the crack of slope city, then wankers, think again, this is a totally independent contrived face climb so stick to it.

(1) The wall to the right of SC.

Bring doubles in small camalots up to #0.75 , and singles up to #3. No wires required however you could probably find some. Starts at base of wall on right and climbs into twin crack system via Ubolts then steep pumpy sport climbing on gear. Very well protected when the moves get tough and a total pumper at the end, Make sure you save a #1 for last break and don't bail out left , direct to flake then loweroffs. Some extendable draws help for double placements in breaks on headwall.

Start on top of the block, at the small L-facing corner just right of Some Weird Sin. Up enjoyable jugs, passing a couple of small overlaps to base of crack. Up thin crack then into hand crack to finish. Double ring belay.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Desperate! Climb the scooping wall right of Extra Terrestrial Turkey 2 carrots.

A ghastly piece of shit by the Young Prehn team more suited to the Blueys than here at the quarry. These pair have what's known in the trade as new route fever and will stop at nothing to put up a new route, no matter how worthless it may be and this is just the case with this climb. No real attention has been paid to cleaning the crack out properly and what remains is just a pile of shit.

(1) the crack right of SOT. Up the pile of crap excreted out of God's arse, fixed el-cheapo angle near the top promises early death.

The direct finish to Full Sail. Start as for Full Sail then take the ringbolted arete to the top.

A good face climb with a long reach that can't be very easily cranked out. Two bolts protect the initial easy face and a good 'TURD' can be used to protect the crack passage. This climb is a must for runts to throw themselves at, who knows you might even find a way up at only grade 18.

(1) The blank looking wall to the right of EMP with the 3 top bolts in it.' Rap off the bolt as for the previous climb, remember CLAW put this bolt in so don't trust it it could be fatal...

The fine, red diagonal crack with black streaks near the middle of the wall.

Easy chunky moves up the side of the cave then a desperate thin runout above the carrot bolt.

Evidently climbed previously in the dark ages, evidenced by the rusted out carrot.

Not much is known about this route except tha Muir wrote 'DEAD' at the bottom of it and included an arrow to show you just what is dead, which turned out to be a tree or hunk of lantanna. The route itself appears to be a badly cleaned out Rod Young Ant Prehn crack that looks slightly sus in the solidarity department. To put it another way, I am trying to tell you that the route is probably the second biggest lump of shit at the quarry; the first being Ants Turn On Top.

(1) The next obvious open pile of crap to the right of B.

Every cliff needs a girdle. The second pitch on this one is amazing. The first is currently terrifying and needs a bolt to make it less poo in your pants scary. Bring prussics for leader and second. Start on the left end of Main Ledge as for Stop the Bolts! pitch 2.

1. 30m (22) Up Stop the Bolts! Pitch 2 for 5m until on lip of roof. Traverse left across orange rock, boldly around the subtle arete with feet right on the lip of monster roof and across the middle bit of Neanderthal Pitch 2 past one RB to blocky corner. Traverse left on small pockets (RB) to hanging belay on arete. Lots of medium/large cams and slings needed for this pitch. Rope drag and communication with belayer problematic.

2. 20m (19) Wild, exposed and well protected. Possibly the best pitch at Scarface. Drop down (?!) a metre into horizontal break (#2 camalot). Traverse the entire length of the wall (2 RBs + medium/large cams in amazing pockets) to left arete (RB), then up this to small ledge and rap rings. Either rap back to ground (33m) or continue up to next ledge with small tree 3m above to 3rd belay on Avian Abattoir.

The name is sickening though the climb doesn't look too bad. Another Ant Prehn Rod Young mix of talents in creating the worthless. The crux is laybacking the drill holes at the top, the climb should provide you with as much excitement as a dead rat in your jockstrap.

(1) the crack to the right of D.

Not a bad little 1 1/4" chimney, a very hard to jam size that required an extensive tape job on the arse to protect iti from abrasion. This crack is made for 1 1/2" friends and is a bad fit for twos so gather up as many as you can and suck on it.

(1) The well defined crack to the right of AS. The chossy stuff at the top is avoided by easy climbing in the left groove.

One of the most popular climbs on the cliff, it has already had at least four repeats. Pretty easy for its grade but remember that it was graded for technical difficulty which means you have to think about the moves before you do them so falling off automatically lowers the grade to around 19. So stoogehead, if you didn't flash it then you haven't climbed a 22 but only a pissfart 19.

(1) The crack in the alcove with the words 'A CLASSIC BY CHUNDER', written on it. Climb the crack in the wall (easy) then traverse right under the roof and up the thin crack to the ledge. Climb up the big flake on your right and step left into the clean looking groove with the tree in it.

Powerful layback moves to start. Small cams in the roof corner and extend with slings. Traverse under roof where you could place a #5. Tricky moves to turn the lip and awesome crack climbing to the loweroffs. Can clean while being lowered or get someone to second.

Still awaiting a second ascent.

Great position and cool climbing.

Splitter crack in the pillar left of the large roof. Right hand end of ledge,8m right of FSR, and just around right from EITR. double bolt belay. P1 (12m, 22) Rightward leaning corner then crack in face to ledge on left with shrub. P2 (23m, 17) Step back right onto jambed chockstone, up chimney and corner then black slab on right to top.

Stick clip bolt, then watch a Wide-boyz montage for inspiration. Pull funky moves (crux), to move up to roof. Make your way to the corner for a rest then make your way up lovely thin headwall crack (20) to lower-offs.

Start 1m right of Weeping Wall. Climb the arete at the groove and move left into Weeping Wall near the top after the roof. From the ledge move 3m right and up the dark wall past 3 carrots.

Route broken into three short pitches with lower offs on the first two. Climbs the right hand end of slabby orange wall and discontinuous corner. Take some medium wires and small to medium cams. 10m left of BUTO

1. 12m, 20, 3 bolts - Step onto wall at conglomerate band and up to large ledge.

2. 12m, 22, 3 bolts - Up technical slab to flake corner past a third bolt to exit up thin crack to ledge.

3. 6m, 17, 1 bolts - Up wall above ledge to top.

Start: 2m right of RHLC. Straight up the wall - small to medium cams help in the middle.

Named after a comically named old car tyre found at the base of the crag. "Double Happy" is a Chinese knockoff tyre that is the antithesis of how one would feel if these puppies were all that lay between you and the nearest tree.

NB: Can be accessed by rap in off trees at the top.

The left of two lines up an appealing little buttress.

Up the moderate shared start with Double Happy (Direct), with good small cams and options for small wires.

At mid-height clip the U bolt and traverse left with tricky moves to get established in the solid finger crack. Lock and funk with bomber gear to the double U bolt lower off.

The second line of rings left of Jaws' major corner. Five rings and several finger/hand sized cams to lower off anchors below the top of the cliff where the line joins Liquid Lunch. Connecting it into the top is a possibility at around grade 26 and has been attempted by Neil & others.

A classic trad line ruined by a line of bolts and an anchor set too low.

Small but bomber gear the whole way, do your best to ignore the bolts until this line is restored. Keep going past the anchor to the single hanger at the end of the good rock, then back-jump to the anchor to clean

The Point's first route bolted with titanium. Rap from carrots to reach semi-hanging belay with foot ledge (double rings). Long, pumpy and well-protected climbing with 10 bolts and one or two obvious medium cam placements, or run it out (safe).

Up small corner (bolt) to wall, then tending right slightly past more bolts.

Named in honour of the second who had a hangover and had recently been listening to a Philip Glass song "Liquid Days"

Up corner, then left passing bolts to arete, up arete with cams. Near top, traverse back right and up final bolt line.

Start: Start as for 'Liquid Daze'

A roof climb. 3m right of Pox On A hot Thin Roof. Up the choss to dyno out roof and up left and finish as for Pox On A hot Thin Roof.

Start 2m right of Out Of The Blue Into The Pox. Out and around the roof and up to the top.

Climb the face between Jaws and Some Weird Sin. Balancy and exposed move low with tricky top section.

This ones for you Damo! A long steep pitch of mixed climbing following a weakness and corner system up high. Bring a full rack (doubles of hand to fist size cams and some wires). The first 15m is all trad then once the angle steepens it's spaced ringbolts and trad to the top. Belay off FH and ringbolt with long slings.

Climb off the block staying out of the corner passing a few FHs and many medium cams. Is slightly run out at the top, but is easier and you can put in some big cams if you really want.

Start: Rap in to an exposed triangular block with 2 FH for belay.