Routes in Mid North Coast for selected grade

Up the Beautiful yellow wall past 4 bolts. Rebolted MAY 18

The right most route on the corner. First clip hanger from ledge, then power through some great juggy roof moves onto slopers then up face to chains.

To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high.

The right most of the 3 route in the cave. Start under flake and up steeply to finish on lip.

Climbs the obvious overhanging arete

Sit start out L, quite a hard pull to slopers and slab.

SDS at big hueco. Straight up. Probably harder now that the starting foothold has broken

Climb flake and arete to get to 5m horizontal roof. Fire our roof near finger crack to anchors over lip.

Direct start is open project. Start as for RD on right for 1 bolt. then step left at break and up steep line. Bring some skin.

A link up. From the 2nd clip on Eat This G-Man traverse right into White Chump and up from the third bolt.

Starts up the toilet bowl, traverse and up the existing line past some slopers to a spicy finish. Needs another bolt as lower offs. Originally bolted by Nick Wagland.

The continuation of 'On Her Traverse-ty's Secret Service' along the quartz rail. After reaching the twin crimps at the start of Agent Starlight, keep going along the rail past a quartz spike, and a bottomless slot to gain the pinch in the crack of 'You Only Jam Twice'. Finish as for this.

...or woman, of course. The low start to Agent Starlight adds a couple of moves. Shuffle into the cave to start low (see marked holds on photo) (right hand poor crimp, left hand small edge). Pull on, right hand to poor slopey pinch, left hand undercut, then go again to snatch the starting quartz crimps of Agent Starlight, finish up this (or better, do Crimpsino Guns)

Linkup: 'The Man With The Golden Guns' into 'Crimpsino Royale' combines the hardest set of moves on the crag.

The undercut, grey wall right right of the offwidth crack. Around the roof, up the wall and top out.

Sit start and up obvious good holds to slight crux up top.

Most likely done before. If the FA has any information please update

Same start as Tomorrow Boy. From the forth bolt step around to the right side of the arete and continue up the face past a carrot bolt and cam to a lower-off.

Straight up black face and around the rooflet

From large jug on right to cool crimps out left on face, then airy topout. Fill hole in landing with pads... Classic!

Sit start matching on good big crimp. Move to left square pinch follow by a beautiful right traverse on crimps with spicy ending using pocket and little flakey crimp.

Mini Lala Land

The obvious steepening white streak on the right of the crag.

Sit start on Arete as for Slice and Dice before moving up and left to finish as for Riptide

Start on the R, and traverse all the way L (keeping low at the end), just past Shady Dayz then straight up past diagonal rail to topout past fronds.

Best looking line at the crag. Get onto left rising diagonal into steep open book corner. Fixed belay above.

Link Scorpio Low Traverse into Space Race/Red Dwarf for a load of sideways fun. The longest route at the crag (so far), gets a bit of a pump going.

Start left side of cave. Bouldery start, up through bulge and headwall to anchors

Approx 40m to the right of Mighty Mouse. Stellar route that has it all. Is often overlooked as the bottom is a bit wet. Starts off dirty/wet ledge under obvious corner. First pitch (19): up corner (carrots and cams) then trend slightly right to just under roof (cams & carrot bolt for belay). Second pitch (25): Short and punchy. Follow carrots through roof to chains. Third pitch (22): Beautiful headwall. Head straight up on carrots and cams (up to No.4 camalot) to mixed hanging belay just below slab. Fourth pitch (24): Fight your way up slab (trending right) using tiny under clings to easier ground and the top. Belay off big tree.

Right line through small roof, large cobblestone sloper broke at lip while working the line.

The prominent arete with fixed hangers at the right hand end of the big orange rooves. Up the left side of the arete to a lower off at a ledge.

Heads left and up wall to finish at anchors as for HG

10m left of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. The left line of bolts that goes through the cool, pocketed rock, the small roof and up the wall. Top out or lower off the last bolt.

Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis.

Obvious route just round the corner of the flat overhanging slab. Start on decent flat, left-hand side pull and right undercling gaston.