Routes as trad in New South Wales and ACT

Start on the block to the left of the huge jug. Grab some jugs out left and mantle some wild overhung terrain using the help of sidepulls and crimps. Try not to pull the whole cliff down on your way up.

Winter connies = velcro! Up FoS corner for a couple of metres then traverse hard right across hard wall (two bolts) and around arete onto mostly trad protected face. About 6 bolts + single set of cam to #4 and couple of long runners. First ascentists used two ropes to reduce rope drag.

Start just right of Mansion. Offwidthing and some thrutchy climbing. 2 number 6 camalots nice to have, FA done happily with 1, no 5s necessary. Up to anchors. Traverse ledge to meet Reactor anchors.

Start up bolts just right of Reactor in layback overlap. Follow crack on gear, trend left across slab to final bolt and up lo Reactor anchors.

Gabara is a Kaiju that doesn't actually exist -except in the mind of a child, as the monstrous manifestation of his real-world bully. Heavy stuff, indeed.

A proud-looking left leaning seam crack with oodles of exposure, and very sporty steep cruxes. Starts on a small ledge above the main ledge (access by ascending a short fixed rope).

Bring a full rack 0.3-3, wires, and doubles of 0.5 and 0.75.

1. 30m (23) A hard start through the roof (feel free to build a cairn if you can't reach the first holds), then powerful moves past 3 bolts to gain the crack proper. This is followed by technical and varied gr21/22 crack/face climbing to a bolted belay below a huge roof.

2. 15m (23) Up to the big roof past 2 bolts, punch through it, then powerful moves to turn the lip. After this, moderate technical face climbing on gear leads to a good ledge and bolted belay. This pitch can easily be combined into the next one.

3. 10m (16) Up the face with spaced gear to ledge. Belay bolts at the back of the ledge.

Built from the ground up by a malevolent child.

A cliff splitting crack that passes through three roofs and some sporty moves. Three bolts keep things sane, but you'll still need a double rack in the finger to hand sizes. A few nuts and hexes can supplement as needed.

Can be climbed as a mega pitch with some serious drag, or split at a semi hanging belay after the difficulties and below the final roof if you want to see the second.

The route starts from the major ledge underneath an obvious crack in the low roof. Trad anchor in the crack and or stick clip the first bolt to avoid consequential falls from the opening moves.

1. 30m (21) Suck it up and commit to some powerful sporty moves out of the opening roof with two bolts and gear to the delicate thin crack (crux). Follow this up through two breaks to the shale break and final bolt. Pull the roof and over into a stance and semi-hanging belay.

2. 20m (14) Follow the widening crack up into a few chimney moves to escape the final roof (all gear). Follow the crack system as it becomes increasingly easy and chossy to a final large cave (belay possible) or continue to the rap anchors and belay from here.

Route faces north. Good in cold temps. Rap chains are on a boulder close to edge, about 5 meters back left along large ledge. Abseil 35mtr to semihanging belay/rapchain in small overhang. Abseil another 25 mtr to next rapchains on face below large ledge, this requires a pendulum to the right. Abseil 35mtr to large ledge. Route starts in corner to right looking in. Bring a single rack up to #5 Camalot, doubles in #0.4 to #2, 12 short draws, four alpine draws. No boltplates.

1. 35mtr, 20. Up wide thrutchy crack, continue up corner, using left face when neccesary.

2. 30mtr, 24. Mostly a sport pitch. Step right from belay then sustained climbing past bolts. Traverse way left, passing a small corner into steep juggy terrain, eventually placing an assortment of cams and wires working up left side of feature that you abseiled off on way down. Large cams unneccesary on this pitch. Semihanging belay.

3. 35mtr, 21. Another opportunity to use #5 cam straight off belay, then up (reachy) to endless ironstone edges and cam breaks. Doubles in small/med sizes a must for this long pitch. Either finish relatively direct after final bolt (tree belay) or continue veering left to far left edge of face. (Dub)

Start as for Wackjob Warren but take more vertical right hand path, past rope slings and two bolts, finishing up and left at same belay tree as WW. A 1.2 metre sling over a bollard helps protect the crux.

Start 15m right of Kodak Moment, just left of the walk down path in the cave. High step off the ground onto the slab, and then follow ramp and chimney up and left passed a rope sling until you reach the flake. Stuff flake with a couple of cams, and then up passed bolt and another rope sling and head up and left until you reach the belay tree. Single rack of cams to size 2 enough.

Start as for Kodak moment, and then head right once your standing on top of 3m boulder, head to the back of the ledge and then up the corner crack, finishing at the tree.

The leftward slanting ramp to the left of Emergent. Undoubtedly very similar to the climb near Shelob's tunnel in the Lord of the Rings. Up, up, up the leftwards ramp, then follow the weakness direct to the top.

Directly up the crack when you emerge from the chimney walkthrough 15m right of Seafood Tapas and 10m left of Prawn Cracker. Up the crack, trend to the left of a cave then back right and up the face to finish.

The obvious crack left (north) of Prawn Wall. Romp on up the right trending crack with lots of good jams and holds. Pass the tree and anchor from the double bolts at the top of Prawn Wall.

Marked ECM. Corner Crack. Top out to lower off.

Rad Trad on Amazing rock. Start is marked 31E.

Lovely crack with a bit of a grovel down low. Great gear, comfortable with a BD5, a little run out with only a BD4 and run out with only some BD3s. Needs a brush but can be led as is.

Crack just right of Totally Testicular. At the top traverse left to DRB.

Starting at the same spot as The Henryk Manoeuvre (without clipping the bolt) head straight up and over the rooflet past big hole. Follow your nose and finish up crack to the right of THM. Top out or step across to anchors.

There’s good gear in decent rock the whole way, but it’s not always easy to find in a sea of questionable rock. Not a beginner lead.

Start halfway between Strike and Silver Hands. Straight up through bulges. Finish at Strike anchor.

Bottom is protected by either boulder pads or the first bolt of Silver Hands. Top protected with cams.

Mantle then follow the offwidth. Marked 'OS'. Teacup jams optional. Original name "Feeling Seedy New Years Day"

follow the curving feature to the easy slab above spots for small gear (2 micro cam pockets)

Short steep crack climb

obvious large leaning crack at the end of the cliff

the arete just right of the hand crack

facing the main boulder its the obvious hand crack going up the slab

A period of unstable air mass creates a big pump. Brilliant sustained climbing on waterfall washed rock. Stem up the steep corner (trad) and out the bulge onto the face above. Technical face climbing (bolts + cams in breaks) to top - bolt belay. Double set of cams (fist to finger), wires and some trad runners useful.

Rap in, from tree to anchor on ledge at top of route, then 2 bolts to help pull in to anchor at top of block.. Climb out …

Unprotected start, off left of block, maybe place cam in lowest break… Slightly overhung for most of route, sustained with various crux sections.

Full range of gear required from micros to #4.. some small offsets…

Best to leave rap line fixed as only feasible way out.

right hand side slab, another wide crack, hard to place gear up top.

Ffar right wall around corner, wide crack system and to left slab.

technical crack seam and layback feature on the righthand side slab feature. tricky mid moves to easy finish easy setup for toprope

Follow the hand (jam) traverse to the arête then up the crack.

It's amazing what you can do with a carrot (this route has not been rebolted). Best to rap Groseness. Start 25m L of Groseness (10m left of slight corner which is Pestosterone). Take a big rack and some brackets.

1. 25m (23) Up slab to ledge and tree.

2. 25m (23) Up then right to layback and arete

3. 35m (16) up line to tree

4. 20m (16) up to ledge 10m below Ab Flab tree.

5. 50m (24) Right and up shallow corner, left then right at 30m, up wall to roof (big cam) and up headwall and right to BB. Long and sustained

6. 35m (23) up left past 3 bolts then up and right.

7. 15m (16) up weird corner

Nice trad route. Start: Rap down from north edge of cave 20m left of Groseness (facing cliff). 50m rap down wall over ledges etc to bolt belay. 48m rap to tree.

1. (50m) up thin layback crack till 5m below roof, move left to large cam break and blast up wall to belay.

2. (50m) up wall past breaks, move left past bolt and tenuosity and up more easily to big ledge and tree, step right and up to finish. Take wires, cams with lots of extra med to large (at least one or two #4s)

(Sounds like it goes somewhere between Weakened Worriers and Zireon). Locate giant flake 30 from base of cliff and 150m L of giant wall of yellow choss at far W end. Up slab to flake then diagonally R to tree belay. Halfway up flake step L to slab. Traverse L and go up small cracks to cave. R through overhang. Up slabs 80m to corner. 40m corner (Coronation crack?), then easy.

Another route up the grand wall left of Coronation Crack. Best to rap the route, starts below a thin corner 30m left of the top of Coronation Crack. Rap down to cave belay (2BB) and thence to ground. Alternately rap down "Friends don't let Friends Place Friends or Coronation Crack. Take lotsa cams, double ropes, and brackets.

1. 50m Up wall past bolt to corner, follow this to roof, right to bolt and up wall to cave.

2. 50m Pull through right side of cave then diagonally left past cams for 12m to bolt. Up black streak to top.

hard... not entirely a closed project but ask me before trying

1. go up the thin finger crack to begin the roof travers on the thining sloped crack

2. easily up on headwall above from a semi hanging belay ( might be bolts in the future but currently is a trad belay)

fantastic! the thinning crack in the middle of the wall that slants left to a trad belay up top. decently easy climbing but the hardest part is stopping and putting in pro. take micro cams (the biggest you need is a .75)

Climb true direct to the anchors of pyromaniac, through centre of bolts on each side via gaston pocket and flaring vertical seam.

Cool trad line follows crack 2m Left on MT. Easy Climbing to face then bomber #2 protects the crux then use fixed gear to lower off and clean. Add a grade if you’re shorter. Might be historical but it’s anyone’s guess

Needs lots of cleaning before FA is possible.

starting at the lowest point in the wall begin to make your way up the path of least resistance going up and diagonally right. there are a few section of 0 pro so tread lightly and and take pro where you can.

Offwidth #6 roof crack with low footwork and features inside the crack. Easy start to wedged boulder where a start anchor can be built. Chimney out to roof crack, turn lip then finger/hand traverse to next lip. Lower off. The last few meters to topout is easy climbing on rotten rock and has not been climbed. Located in a small cave just before accessing Supercrack.

Super steep roof crack on bomber hands and fists with plenty of gear. Gear recommended double #4#3#2#1, gear before first lip has to be extended or unclipped otherwise rope drag will be problematic. Lower off.

Start up the First 2 bolts of Big Fat Fin Slappers 2nd pitch before heading straight up the thin crack. Fantastic rock and good gear #1.25 and smaller.

The right arete of the first tower. Top rope, solo or there’s even a cam break at half height.

middle of vert wall under small rooflet. crack up, left through roof, crack and squeeze behind pillar

Very hard looking fused corner with a single bolt down low just right of The Little Prince, on the left side of the amazing big blank orange wall. Initialed as THF, but clearly isn't The Human Factor. Where is goes beyond the initial corner is unknown - no more bolts are evident.

One great pitch up the guts of the wall - and a pretty rubbish approach pitch. Mostly a sport route - bold climbers may even be able to climb this without any trad. Sane climbers will bring a #1 & #2 camalot for the big flake, and a sneaky #0.75 for a break before the crux. 5 bolt plates required.

1. 15m 20. Climb Partition for three bolts, then head left around corner to ringbolt belay on small ledge (not safe to walk around unclipped). This pitch is all bolts - maybe 5?

2. 34m 23/24. Left from the belay and up bolted wall, past a big flake (cams) then jug heaven until crimp crux trending left. Finish up orange wall with a final mantle onto teeny ledge and double ring lower-off (or belay). Rap back down - this route does not top out.

Part sport route, part trad route - all adventure. From belay ledge climb the left wall on sinker pockets for 2m, then wander up a series of ledges and mantles (carrots) until the wall steepens and becomes waterwashed (FHs). Get through a mild vegetation band then launch up lovely subtle arete on great rock to reach a landmark corner. Up this (fiddly wires & medium cams) for about 20m to small cave ledge. Clip bolt and climb the biggest jugs in the universe to topout onto black slab and rap chains. A 50m rope should reach the ground from here. 5 bolt plates required plus a reasonably extensive trad trad for weight training. Some parts of this route probably seeps a fair bit in a normal year - but in drought conditions its great.

Climb flake than continue up bulge to top out

5# - #3

Crack R of Hobbit Nose with a blank section up high. Take cams

Two blocks right of High Roller is a good bolted route up the disappearing flake (gear to start).

Start: Clean hard orange/grey left-facing corner.

Fantastic clean corner and rooflet with great gear. DRBB added 2017

Start: At twin thin cracks in grey lichen slab.

Slabby twin cracks, unfortunately not the best rock with some lichen and dirt. DRBB.

Can traverse 3m left along a good foot ledge at the top to Super Shear anchors.

Start: 3m left of Subduction Zone

Great technical seam, take lots of small wires or RPs plus small cams. Take care - it's all there. Fantastic!

Start: Grey left-facing corner with second wall crack just to the right.

Corner with clean twin cracks. Great moves and gear. DRBB

Start: As for The Richter Scale.

Technical and goey, traverse right out of The Richter Scale past a FH then up the seam and crack. DRBB

Start: 5m left of San Andreas at crack in middle of wall.

Great clean crack with lower angle start that gets steeper and harder higher. DRBB added 2017.

Start: 4m left of The Richter Scale.

Undercut crack, take care rope doesn't jam in bulge. DRBB

Start: 3m left of Aftershock

Nice undercut crack to interesting twin cracks. Needs small wires for middle bulge. DRBB

Start: About 15m left of Quaking, left of gully

Left up wall past 2 FH to hanging crack-corner-roof. Take small and medium wires plus small cams. DRBB

The flake crack 200m south (uphill) from the submarine. Probably the only viable climb amongst the main boulders.

Closed Project

Jam your way up to the top using the right side crack. Cams to protect the start, small nuts midway, and some tiny cams under the final ledge before pushing for the top.

Build your own anchor at the top. Second to clean or retrieve anchors via the gully further East.

Starting as for Zymurgy, climb the direct thinner line via slots and crimps to the right of the previous line and staying right of the prominent pale disc. Finish by topping out the boulder problem off the shelf and directly above.

Start as for Catalyst, but instead of going left, follow the right hand crack to the top. A gutsy little lead.

Bring second up to clean from tree.

Climb Springer and then change gears and bust left through the horizontal roof crack and mantle.

A bouldery direct start. Up the face on interesting moves (crux) on to the ledge and up as for 'Keystone corruption'

Clip first bolt then head slightly right and up over the flakes, a good #1 placement (avoid gear on the detached arch). Onto the slab (crux) past 2 bolts, then a short unfortunate dirty wade through some lomandra then onto a short crack up to the anchor.

on the east side of the creek there is an obvious cliff along this cliff there are many cracks going up. at one of the largest cracks there is a slab (about 3m high) the climb starts here and just takes the crack until you topout. use a tree belay for your second.

The splitter roof crack 1.5m right of Burning Shells.

Finish at Burning Shells anchors.

Bouldery!

Wide roof crack mini route that requires nearly zero off-widthing!

Can be done either as a trad route (protect with 1-2 size 6s) or as a high ball boulder.

The all free version of Gigantor. Listed separately to the aid version, as aiding Gigantor is still quite popular.

Atmospheric and extremely engaging! A true sustained cliff-splitter.

As a free route, it has a bit of everything - Jamming, armbars, pinkys, pockets and the occasional edge. Some loose rock and the occasional runout. Belays are all ok -provided you equalise everything and make use of any natural pro you can find.

Don't even think of rebolting this one!!

Traverse right at the bolt ladder near the top, and follow the line of least resistance.

Watch this Video with Zac Vertrees about the route.

Starts on the left side of the grassy ledge, about 2-3m right off innocence. Up trending right linking into 'Impunity' at the 4th hanger.

Unremarkable face and slab leading to excellent steep crack headwall, finishing in a burly mantle. Locate rap chain above track approx 20m left of Optimum Beer level. Rap 40m on seperate rap line with a good rope protector for top edge, hitching a sling on tree at top proper for something to clip after topping out route. Rap to large ledge 8m above ground and use U bolt for belay. An ikea bag for climbing rope is advised as ledge is dirty and sloping. Place a #3 cam in crack to the left , then climb this, moving to the right at base of vague ramp on grey slab. Up this placing gear. Pass two ubolts to large break, placing #6, then up to bolt. From here up through steepness , spanning left to base of headwall crack, then to top. All gear was placed on lead during first ascent. (After pink pointing then stripping). A bag with a jacket, water, and a snack is usefull and can be hauled on rap line when day is done.

Directly around corner from boulder cave (in direction of Sunbath), or reach top by walking over cave and facing across valley. Surely would have been climbed previously, considering location. Lower finger crack a one or two move wonder comparable to Hope (Piddington) but softer rock. Can build a decent anchor above the lower crack. Followed by unprotected slab and poorly protected face

A short punchy problem, not conventionally difficult but will test your head game and ego. Wouldn’t recommend but it’s very unique.

Up right hand corner with care, out right hand roof and up to 2 carrot belay. Rap or scramble off with care.

Follow the short line of chipped holds and 3 bolts to the anchors on ledge.

Since the chipping has been done, it now takes some perfect gear. Tagged as a project, but I reckon if you don’t clip the bolts it’s fair game. A couple 0.4s and a small wire will see you safely to the ledge

Start and finish as for Hollow Flake, connecting the cracks through the obvious weaknesses to the right. There’s good gear to be had, so commit to the slab

Starts just right of the crack up the slabs. Boldly up to the first break, and continue up right of the grass tree, finishing on the crack.

For maximum contrived fun, try stay on the slabs, avoiding the cracks as long as possible.

Start as for #2 In The Hole, but instead go boldly up the groove on the left. Continue up crack system, going right of the grass tree, and finish as for The Crack.

Starts just right of a “project” with chipped holds and unnecessary bolts.

Up to ledge with anchor on it (?) then up the obvious corner crack. Like hollow man, bring your gear and ignore the bolts until the line has been restored. There’s absolutely no doubt that this is a gear route

Direct start to Surf Solar. Bring some tiny gear, and confidence. Bold through the middle until where the original joins, but the climbing is easy

Starts behind pillar up at the back left. Climb Sloth Roof but keep going past the anchor for another 10 meters of mind blowing journey through a ceiling with tufa looking ironstone features. Ends a the opposite wall when your feet land onto a ledge after just another incredible 180 deg feet first cut loose.

Climb the first 4 bolts of Adventure then branch off into a desperate traverse under the overhanging boulder. Proceed to then wrestle your way up between the two boulders to yet another uncomfortable belay

Up the offwidth crack to the summit chockstone.

Up the corner with the thin seam and continue up the crack to the right of the trianglular rooflet. Belay off the chockstone, using the ancient tat if you dare!

An engaging little layback/offwidth crack located behind Adventure, for whos bolts you can belay off. Oh, if only it were twice the size.

Same as for STR, but start in the wider crack/chicken head.

A short climb up the right trending crack on the backside of the right side. Sling the triangle rock at the end of the crack, lean out and summit the nose feature. Belay off the crack a couple meters away from the edge.

Right of Choss Norris. Straight over the graffiti and up to the shrubbery at the top of the face. A surprisingly enjoyable little problem