Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

Sit start and grab the jug in the middle. Move left with nice feet to an undercling with left hand, dyno to the top sloper hold in the middle and up and over.

Ramble up R. side of cave, then traverse L. to base of crack. Climb crack.

Thin, discontinuous crack 1m R of BL to horizontal ramp of April Fools. R corner. A bit of manual manipulation will see you through this section. Continue up broken face.

Starts at R end of detached block. Overhanging corner, then step up next (tricky) corner above. Major corner-line above to little ledge with small tree, then last part of corner.

Just L of The Brisbane Line at end of detached block is 4m face leading to horizontal. Ease up face L of arête on micro holds to horizontal. L-leaning line to ledge, then face above.

The Rock's first classic test piece at this grade. Start 2m left of prominent corner. Prominent upside-down staircase (two BRs) to ledge.

One of The Rock's classic test-pieces. Start Marked. Start 1m L of Scratched Knees on top of rock. Up L side of recess through spectacular roof line. Turn lower roof on L using prominent hold on L wall to gain halfway ledge of Traverse #2. (Belay possible under main roof but don't bother) Turn second roof using underclings, then large jam-crack to reach jugs on lip. Wall above. (Both roofs easier than they look)

A good climb if one resists the temptation to escape to easier climbing on L. Start just L of Terminator. R side of face. First crux face is protected by 3 BRs. Rest of route is adequately protected by gear. From horizontal, move R to join Terminator (best finish) or step L through bushes and up face to a large ledge. Continue up gully or climb unprotected roof (20/21) on R side of gully.

Sit start in the middles of the cut rock(jug). Pull up heading slightly right and moving left foot up and over the cut rock/starting jug area. Some small crimps as you head straight up and slightly to the right.

The obvious crack up the centre of the R (or) main boulder.

Sit start R of YH below the horizontal. Straight to the top mantle.

Traverse on lip to easy top out.

Bu start on low L flake R of Scenic

Start at the L end of La Familia wall at the base of the arete. Up the short face, traverse the break L and step up onto the slab. Up this and then R and up onto the short arete to the top and lower off.

Start as for KIITF, up to the break and onto the slab, before climbing the face up to the L of the arete to the roof. Step R and up to the anchors of KIITF.

No Time for Dreaming pitch 4 variation. From belay ledge, climb right following bolts through under cling, up onto slab, into finger crack (small cams), then continue up slab to anchors as for NTFD. Can stay wet when the rest of the route is dry.

A fantastic outing up some great quality granite with something for everyone. Increases in difficulty as you go higher, and its possible to enjoy an easier day by abseiling off when it gets too hard. All belay stations are DBB with rap rings. Pitch 4 has 11 bolts (the most), so you'll need at least that many draws. Take a few cams (small to medium) to supplement bolts on the 3rd and 4th pitches. Starts at a prominent black streak where the walking track hits the cliff, ~ 15 m left of the waterfall. After heavy rain, the first 3 pitches turn into a waterfall, leaving the rock beautifully polished as a result!

1. 25m (12). Cruise up the black streak to a comfy belay ledge.

2. 20m (15). Follow a series of flakes to the crux move to reach the next ledge. There is often a decent sized puddle underneath the DBB - this pitch can easily be linked into P3 to avoid hanging out in it if you use a few extenders.

3. 20m (16). Move up and right on the large flake, before technical and tricky moves back left to follow the main crack line to the ledge. A medium cam or two can be used in this crack to supplement the two bolts, but are not necessary for safety. There is a variation approximately 5 m left of the start (separate DBB and first bolt) that may not have been finished?

4. 40m (19). Climb the spine and corner off the left side of the belay ledge before stepping right up the flake and corner. The crux bulge here can be backed up with a cam/medium nut (advised). Continue up the ramp and follow the bolts up a seam and slab to a big ledge.

5. 20m (20). Step up and right around the base of the steep prow onto the slab. Traverse diagonally right and then follow the flakes and cracks up the wall to the top.

Sit start up good edges

Same start as Mantle Fight but going directly up to similar mantle crux

Sit start with left hand around arete and right hand on solid edge/crimp. Up to big flake hold then straight up. Avoid the undercling at the start, it will break.

Sit start on jugs and up good edges to easy mantle

Crack behind Microscope Boulder. Sit start, then stemming and jamming to top out left.

Stand start on crimps and up face

Stand start left hand on bottom of runnel/jug and right hand in hole, and up the arete. Very nice moves

Lower start with left hand on sloper goes at V3, but not as nice

Up the awesome arete. Graded to include the sketchy downclimb (otherwise it's V1)

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Crouch start matched on good pocket then up slab before a pretty epic palm press to finish. Don't use arete for assistance.

Blake Muir (FA)

Crouch start on left of boulder. Traverse right and up through cool corner to mantle crux

Cramped sit start on 2 pockets and up face to the right on good crimps and edges to crux move up top slapping to jug hole

Sit start on jugs to the left of the Caldera, and up fun moves on jug rail. Very good

Stand start on good crimps below ledge. Up and mantle onto ledge before second easier mantle. Sketchy landing

Right side of prow.

Climb Forest Slab via the vertical rail eliminating the good left crimp for hands (still in for feet). All eliminates via this finish allow one light brush (not weight) of the right wall with your back, a second dab or any weight and you must start again for the tick.

Sit start to Tree Corner/Offwidth, superb.

Establish yourself cleanly on the left wall of the corner before moving right to finish via Tree Corner/Offwidth.

Climb Forest Slab starting from the lower thin diagonal crimps.

Climb Forest Slab starting both hands matched on vertical rail, contrived.

Lovely short wall/slab right of the tree.

As for Tree Arete with the detached block out, strictly from the ground, no stacking.

Down the hill through the scrub towards the walking track, climb the arete with the detached block in.

Climb Porkorama starting from the low step to the left with both hands matched on the large undercling.

Sit start to Porkorama on the flake, large low footer far left is out.

Direct up the flake system few metres left of the scoopy slab, gets better the higher you go.

Climbs Worm starting from outer aspect of Eastern Chimney.

Eliminate problem starting as for CWI and finishing via CWLE-PL with the semi-detached block on left as you exit the chimney out.

Establish yourself on the left wall of Western Chimney (right wall and chockstone out) moving left via nice move into Pub Lunch and up its quite mossy slab taking care with the potentially awkward landing.

Start as for Crumpeteer and finish via Ramp Tramp.

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 finishing as for Attack of the Field Mouse.

Climbs as for SC1CEW eliminating the semi-detached block on the left.

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 finishing via CEW.

Start as for Southern Crumpet #1 finishing via CEW.

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 finishing via CEL.

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 finishing via CER.

Start as for Souther Crumpet #1 finishing via CEL.

Climb Sit the Crumpeteer and finish via The Real Crumpeteer (no picnics on shelf, plenty of rests elsewhere!)

Start as for Crumpeteer finishing via Bar Mat.

Sit start and climb Crumpeteer from crimps/low rail.

From crimps/low rail.

Complete Southern Crumpet #2 twice linked via the lap of Crumpet of the South.

From crimps/low rail, contrived.

Start on outer aspect West chimney move East to finish via CEL.

Climb as for Crumpet of the South 2 pausing for three at the arete then reverse back via Southern Crumpet 2.

Start in centre of chimney moving East to finish as for Crepe.

Linking section. Climb Crumpet of the South #2, reverse back via the entirety of Crumpeteer and back to starting position via Half Crumpeteer Right.

Climb as for Real Crumpeteer exiting via Ramp Tramp.

Climb as for Real Crumpeteer finishing via Bar Mat.

Set out on Real Crumpet returning via Crumpeteer.

Start as for Rindless and finish as for Bermuda.

Start as for Sit the Nice Edges, complete a full lap around Razoback, next climb as for Crumper before completing another lap around Razoback in opposite direction to previuos.

Start as for Nice Edges finishing as for Crumper.

Climb Sit the Nice Edges past its crux before moving right full 360deg around boulder clockwise.

Climb Rindless past its crux before moving right full 360deg around boulder anticlockwise.

Climb Sit the Nice Edges past its crux before moving right full 360deg around boulder anticlockwise.

Climb Rindless past its crux before moving left full 360deg around boulder clockwise.

Direct version of Rindless sit starting matched on the crimprail, fraction more morpho than original.

Sit start as for Norm' finishing via Kevin Bacon.

Start as for Norm' moving right full 360deg around boulder anticlockwise.

Start as for Norm' moving left full 360deg around boulder clockwise.

Start both feet on bridging slab opposite Smokestack moving directly from the crimps of the arete, right and down into the low groove (avoiding the slab in between) before finishing up Rindless/KB. Contrived eliminate but quite good.

Sit start to Nice Edges, quite good one move wonder, strictly no dabbing.

Start as for Nice Edges moving right to bridge onto Smokestack from steeper left arete of the bridging slab, next moving left as for Half Crumpeteer Left before bridging back over to Razoback and completing full lap around bloc.

Start as for Nice Edges continue anticlockwise 360deg around block via Stile on KB side of boulder.

LHV of Sit the Nice Edges (StNE) starting left hand on edge, right hand on shark tooth moving up/right.

Climb Razoback standing start from the ground.

Sit start on right as for LB1.2 finishing left via LB3.3.

Sit start on massive jug and up via dyno or crimp and gaston. Both are fun and are similar in difficulty

Start: 10m R of 'Handicapped'

Up orange slab (reachy) using pockets for gear to 2nd pebbly break, then technical traverse R for 5m (micro cams) to obvious vertical crack with good gear to top.

Start: Start in alcove in middle of short wall leading to corner (past gully and broken, rocky area). Through small overhang, then up very thin crack.

The cliff splitting hand and off fingers crack 4m right of Short and Sweet . Hard to believe it hasn't been climbed before ?? If no other name exisits, this name comes from the impressive fossilised sand ripples in the cave to the left.

Start 40m R of Northern Lights, in middle of W Face below wide crack on R of overhanging face split by three cracks. Up R to bolt, then wall and arete to top of pillar (six bolts; small wires and cams on R side of arete at half-height and at top). Over boulder, then step across wide crack. Up to ledge, bolt belay.

Start at small L corner below yellow roofs.

1. 20 m Corner, then slab to stance.

2. 25 m L, then slab. Move R, then wall tending L to poor belay.

3. 12 m Slab.

4. 30 m Groove to top of flake, then wall to stance.

5. 20 m L, then groove.

6. 20 m L, then crack.

7. 18 m Crack to ledge.

8. 30 m Crack, then R to another crack. Up to ledge.

9. 30 m Up R groove to easy ground. Scramble up.

Start 5 m L of Antares at twin grooves. Follow discontinuous R-hand groove/crack, then L to gully at top of L-hand groove. Up this to base of groove through Antares roof.

Located below the summit towards southern gully. A finger crack turns into a hand crack. Mantling over to finish.

Start below slabs at R end of cliff.

1. 25 m Slab to ledge.

2. 30 m Slab to corner below bulge. Swing L to arete, then arete to bulge. R through bulge (bolt), then slab to stance below steepening.

3. 30 m Up L to crack. Past chockstone, then up L at top of crack. L to belay.

4. 35 m Up, then up L to belay.

5. 20 m Up R to end of bulge, then L to belay.

6. 10 m Wall.

7. 25 m R to corner. Corner, then R at top. Up R to belay.

8. 40m Wall past black rock, then steeply to roof. L and down to arete. Arete, then L to corner.

9. 40 m Corner.

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

Origially 19,M1 with a skyhook on pitch two.

1-2: Up slab as for Falling Feathers, but belay in prominent crack.

3: Crack to steepening, then R and up steeply (poor rock) to slabby ledge.

4: Up R to ledge.

5: R up wall to base of groove. Groove to ledge.

6: Groove to roof, then down R along traverse-line. Swing up R to front of buttress. Wall to base of groove (exposed).

7: Groove.

Follow track past Ginsberg, drop to lower level and R-leading ledge on R side of water-streak R of Tantalus.

1. 10 m Cross slabs to belay in bushes just past water-streak.

2. 35 m Up to bulge, then diagonally R and up. Continue until main slab is visible. Up L to tree.

3. 30 m Up R to groove, then groove to just short of water-streak. Up R to poor belay.

4. 35 m Up, then L. Steeply up to break. Follow break L, then flake. Up to next break, then up to groove. Groove to bolt belay.

5. 35 m Groove, over boulder, then R. Up, then diagonally L under bulge. Crack, then L to water-streak, up this then R.

6. 35 m R, then groove past loose boulders to small ledge.

7. 30m Up, then diagonally R through bulge to cracks. Cracks, through bulge, then further cracks. Traverse L to belay.

8. 15 m Crack, bulge, then up.

Steep, scary traverse on good rock. Start at ledge 15 m from base of Tantalus chimney.

1. 45 m Chimney to steepening and R-leading ledge. Follow ledge to large boulder, then up to ledge above boulder. Traverse round arete to steep wall, then diagonally L to corner-crack

2. 45 m Crack to big ledge. Easily up.

Start at piton belay above fifth pitch of Ulysses.

1. 35 m R, through overhang, then R to groove.

2. 35 m Diagonally R to comer-crack (pitch two of Steeplechase). Continue R to final gully on Tantalus.

Starts 15m L of Ulysses at groove.

1. 20m Groove to slabby area below steepening.

2. 35 m Up, then R round headwall. Up and L to ledge.

3. 15 m Up steeply to ledge, with crux of Ulysses above.

Sustained and steep. Start on R end of bushy ledge below prominent flake-crack, gained by scrambling up bushy slabs R of Ginsberg buttress.

1. 10 m Up R-slanting flakes to ledge with block.

2. 45 m Wall, tending slightly R. Crack and groove through bulge to stance directly above start of climb.

3. 15 m Ramp L to small cave below bulge.

4. 35 m down L, then up through bulge to ledge. Wall, moving L at overhangs, to steep groove. Poor bolt belay.

5. 25 m Groove, then L through steep wall. Piton Belay.

6. 30 m Up L for 15 m; traverse L to arete Arete, past tree to stance.

7. 10 m Chimney.

8. 35 m Crack, then up L across wall to arete. Through bulge to chimney.

9. 35 m Crack to stance on arete. Bulges to crack on L. Up.

Takes a corner, presumably the major one between Ginsberg and Ulysses. No further details.