Routes in Bingie

Open Project.

The perfect splitter finger crack through rooflet on the east side of Dr Dream Boulder.

Sit start to It Begins With A Blessing.

The left arete of the north face. Start right of the arete with both hands on lowest ledge. Mantle to establish on wall before moving either hand to the second ledge then top-out.

The splitter finger crack on the left side of the north face. Sit start at lower flake.

The middle of North face between Day By Day and Night By Night. Sit start on finger jugs then pleasant smearing.

Start on the right of the north face. Undercling layback the aesthetic, left leaning line.

The face just right of Day By Day. Hands (and elbows) free. Toppo drawn at foot level.

Different.

Sit start left of the chockstone, up left face via a crimp ledge. Sit rest on chockstone, face outward and reverse mantle to top.

Start right hand side of chockstone. Sit start to hand jam. Reach over the bulging chockstone and walk feet up right ramp.

The right leaning weakness on the lichenous face left of CPAP Smear. Undercling sit start with hands following the weakness.

The face with crossed weaknesses 1m left of Fingering The Nose Flute. A powerful undercling sit start relents to an easier face.

The bottomless crack between the boulders in the sand. Sit start.

The deeper crack left of Three Sheep, above the boulder in sand. Sit start off boulder using the undercling knob.

This is the twin shallow cracks just right of the boulder in the sand. Up the cracks to awesome jug handle top-out. Sit start is VB+.

Half a metre left of One Sheep. Start with your hands in the horizontal. Straight up face avoiding the hollow flake at top.

To the right hand end of Snore Wall there is a set of three weaknesses. This is the left of the three with a fragile flake at the top. Hard sit start then easily up.

Start lying down and pull onto jugs. Up to lip. Traverse left along lip to arete, flop your body around the arete. Easy mantle. Can also mantle the lip at the start for an easier boulder, but the secrets of the twig will remain unknown.

Start by establishing with both hands on slopey rail jug. Note that you must establish before climbing, if you use your momentum from pulling on to do the move, then you didn’t do the boulder.

Sit start on jugs in left corner of eastern face. meander up face wherever you please.

Sit start in side pull / undercling (eastern side). Head straight up blunt arete (stay on left side of it).

Sit start in side pull undercling thing (eastern side). Follow crack line up face (left side, south facing).

Sit start. Up the butts on the arete (western side) off small boulder.

Small overhanging face. Low sit start with right hand on good side pull and left hand pressing down on the ledge bit. Exit left or right.

South-east corner. Sit start on slopers. Wrestle the bulge and mantle. Note that only the main boulder is in (don't dab the friendly looking small boulder).

On seaside of boulder (south face). Sit start on slimpers.

Duplicate, please delete.

Start with right hand low in the crack and left in undercling below right hand. A couple of jams will get you to the pocket and continue up from there.

Low sit start on RHS slimper jugs (left two). Bust leftwards to pinch then up face.

Low sit start on RHS slimper jugs (right two). Straight up.

Sit start right of the steep arete, with both hands on the sharp edge. Try to keep bleeding to a minimum as you hook and hand traverse left around the arete to finish up Befogged Bridge.

Bridge the corner using Keft Cleft for your left foot.

The obvious splitter hand crack. Sit start.

Start on horizontal break. Multiple ways to go, choose your adventure.

Start at horizontal break, big right hand move up, then mantle with high left foot.

Just like a real boulder problem … only shorter.

Sit start with both hands on the far right jug and left foot in the overhung corner. Grunt left to the next hold then power up left to the jug on the prow. Hook left, rock over and top out.

Crepey is just an excuse to do the last move of Skillet. Stand start on the very left of the boulder using the boulder in the sand for feet. Crimp and slap right to the finishing jug of Skillet. Top out as for Skillet.

The feature right of Spatulation. Hands free. Toppo is drawn at feet level.

The slab right of Marble Cake. Eliminate as much as you wish and it will still be simple.

Sit start as for Marble Cake but with both hands in the side pull. Thrutch up right to orange flake and stroll up it to top.

The set of left leaning diagonals. Sit start with left hand on crimp below horizontal quartz and right hand in side pull. A hard first move relents to a pleasant stroll.

Vanilla Frosting is left of Marble Cake, following the quartz. A crimpy, standing start relents to simple moves on beautiful rock.

Sit start at lower level right of Bloomin Fall. Hands on jugs at feet level of Bloomin Fall, then up through undercling and jug to easy top out.

The face right of Deep Satisfaction. Sit start with both hands on the rail and feet in horizontal below. Mantle top out.

The ankle-shredding off-width corner in the spine of the open book. Sit start.

The weakness in the west face, left of Deep Satisfaction. Hard sit start to pocket and mantle. The right arete is off limits.

On the left (west) face of Galley Boulder there is a prominant flake system. From a standing start, haul on the lowest jugs then layback the flakes.

Sit start as for Gracias but traverse left across the west face. Finish up the easy, crimpy arete or, if you are still hungry, link into Spilt Chardy.

Start at the right arete. Rising leftward traverse with feet following the angled sloper until you feel like mantling.

The best of the three, but that's not saying much.

Just right of Paper Cup there is another side pull. Use this and left foot on large blob. Swap feet and up.

Right of Paper Plate there are two side-pulls at head height. This is the left (easier) of the two.

Limp and pointless.

At the left arete of the back (north) side of the Picnic Boulder there is a small attached flake. Crimp it and up.

Only one move, but at least it's a fun one.

Sit start (or hang straight armed if you are short) off the big jug on the right of the south face of the Picnic Boulder. Right foot up and crank over it onto slab.

Strangely satisfying.

Sit start as for Gracias, but move right, swapping to the thinner crack. Rock over the low right foot and palm-slap up the blankness to the right of the crack.

On the left of the south face of Picnic Boulder. Sit start then easily up the prominant series of slots.

Just tidying up. The final vertical weakness on the right end of the Sausage Sizzle Slabs. Can be broken into two pitches.

The broken weaknes 2m right of Hide The Jalapeno.

Desperate ... for one move ... if you're 5'8".

Between Hide The Jalapeno and Stained Serviette (the two lines with yellow lichen) there is a blank section of slab. Smear up this without using the boulders in the sand or the vertical weaknesses on either side.

You may want to try this one yourself before pointing the offspring at it. A bit more tenuous than most on the Sausage Sizzle Slabs. The second weakness right of the left leaning diagonal (Baby Q), with blobs of yellow lichen.

The vertical weakness right of Join The Q.

Start as for Baby Q but stright up the vertical weakness rather than the diagonal.

Almost too easy to be a problem, but the kiddies (and oldies) will love it. The obvious left leaning diagonal right of No Onion.

The right of the three vertical weaknesses.

Right of Burnt Sausage there are three shallow weaknesses. This is the left of the three.

Kiddies confidence-builder.

Right of Sauce Not Ketchup there is a deep, low-angled rift with a short pillar in the middle. This is one of many descent routes.

To the right of that there is an offwidth with an obvious black leakage at the base. This is Burnt Sausage, short and overcooked but the kids won't mind.

The face between Sauce Not Ketchup and the descent gully.

The deeper weakness just to the right of American Mustard.

The shallow weakness a metre right of Bread n Butter.

The face between Bread n Butter and American Mustard. Both cracks are off limits. Tenuous to start.

The first vertical weakness right of the finish of Low n Slow. Start on rounded boulder. Good holds all the way.

Long, rightward traverse across the Sausage Sizzle Slabs, from the finish of Low n Slow to the slabby corner after Do The Right Thing. Difficulty increases progressively. Perfect.

Right to left rising traverse with feet in the obvious left-leaning ramp to easy top-out.

Sit start at the right leaning diagonal right of Hot n Fast. Strong first move, then cruise up the widest break to top.

Sit start just right of Low n Slow with hands in isolated flake. Up rightward until feet gain the right leaning ramp. Follow ramp to glory.

Start at right leaning diagonal just to the right of the Salt Bae boulder. Traverse right, feet low, through a proper hand jam and body tensioning barn-door moments. Finish up the second right leaning off-width. Tricky if moist.

Sit start on the right side of the Salt Bae boulder. Hands in left-leaning, rounded crack, right foot on right leaning slab. Work hands up left to knob. Pop right hand to top, match and top out.

A harder variant (project) would be to start with both feet on the face or in the left leaning diagonal.

Start in the middle of the Salt Bae boulder, with your feet on the obvious little ledge and hands on the thin side pull. Straight up, joining Salt Bae at the angled slot.

The sit start (project) would make it harder and better.

What's the point?

Start in the semi-detatched flake between the starts of Salt Bae and Off The Bone. Climb the flake to the diagonal and beyond. Top out in the middle of the upper boulder just to make it slightly interesting.

The pick of the crag. Quite the tip shredding puzzle. It links all the best bits of the Salt Bae boulder.

Start as for Salt Bae, but traverse the face, from left to right, avoiding the high horizontal and right leaning break (the rest of Salt Bae) using whatever remains on the face. Finish in the welcome groove right of the boulder, or muscle up Golden Tomahawk for extra cred.

Start on the left side of the Salt Bae Boulder at the right-leaning crack. Traverse rightward with hands in the horizonal break. Finish up right leaning diagonal.

V0 if you eliminate the obvious foot ledge in the middle.

On the same slab as Beer In Hand. Start up the diagonal, vegetated crack at the right side of the slab. Pad up just left of the arete. Hands permitted.

This is the middle of the three obvious weaknesses (the one left of the vegetation). Hands free. Topo at feet level.

Good value. The double, crossed cracks right of Elderberry Jam. Sit start. No dynos.

There are three cracks in the Devonshire Face, right of Dry Scone. This is the widest crack to the left.

You may need to tape up for this one. Pretend you're in The Valley and use vertical hand jams only (the rest is off limits) to gain the mighty summit.

A harder variant (project) for the massochists would be to throw a fist into the bum start.

The left arete of Devonshire Face, left of the deep crack (Elderberry Jam). This is to the right of the obvious descent gully.

Sit start just right of arete proper, under-cling in mini cave then up arete.

Use face and right side of crack on south facing wall.

Use face and left side of crack on south facing wall.

Traverse right starting next to bush, just left of Vitamin Puffs. Follow head height horizontal crack / ledge with hands. Bridge gap (descenmt route) to Devonshire Face. Continue right until reaching bush, then top out.

Off-width corner at right-hand end of main face.

Slightly vegetated left leaning crack right of Licking The Beater.

Up the stepped slab right of the central crack.

Crack in the middle of the main face.

Up slab between two cracks on main face.

Left most crack on main face.

Up the arete.

The crack in the middle of the south facing wall. Dubious top-out chockstones. Take care.

The internal corner at the left end of the left boulder.

The best descent route for the Main Wall.

Straight up the center of the wall. Sit start into the larger flake and top out on questionable holds, watch the landing.