Routes in Tianjara Falls

Chimney up and be re-birthed through small squeeze onto an excellent viewing platform for Sahara & Stairway to Heaven.

Some sweet rock climbing past some ring bolts

Start: Clip 1st bolt on GCR.

Puts the bight back into the line that mustad traversed away from.

Start: Same start as With Mustard

traverse across and get yourself established on a technical arete a few big moves and your at the anchors should be around grade 19-21

Start: The anchors are in all you have to do is add 4-5 bolts

Up the corner crack and then follow the left crack system off ledge. Another very old route, at least you get bolts for the first 5 meters.

Start: In Corner of Mythical Tomatoes.

A pleasant adventure. Left hand route on the black wall. As for First Impressions. Follow the line of fixed hangers just right of the empty space and finish up on the nose and easy ground above. Take some medium to large cams, double rope handy to reduce drag.

The next 4 routes have a common start at a FH just to the left of a scrubby corner, on the right of the overhang. The leftward trending line on the blunt arete left of AHMS. Take a selection of wires and cams and a couple of slings. As for Angus Has Me Stumped. P1 (20m, 20, 6 bolts) Clip first hanger of AHMS then traverse left to tread at break, up past 2 hangers, step left around nose and on past another hanger to belay on ledge with tree. Double bolt belay. P2 (20m, 16, 1 bolts) Exciting traverse leftward past hanger to corner, up and traverse left at top and on to top.

Not a lot of protection through the first wall from memory but think of England, Dave Mcleod & just fake it.

Start: At wall with scooped out bites just right of Mythical tomatoes

A bit of old fashioned run it out trad climbing, taking in all the best looking rock it could.

Start: Same as for Cab Rank under obvious bite out of wall ie under scoops.

Start 1m right of blocky corner as per guidebook, up feint grey streak to top out eventually.

Another old trad route. Not sure how much pro you get on it but i remember it as run out. Then again its only 14.

Start: Drop down off the ledge where 'Usurper' starts and walk towards the water fall a few meters. Around the nose you will soon see a large left leaning slab and corner with lots of rooves above it. From Cab rank you can look up to the right and see a tree growing from an orange rock ledge this is the last stance.

Start at the old chains, up the easy ramp past an old pin and some new fixed hangers up high.

Splitter crack in the pillar left of the large roof. Right hand end of ledge,8m right of FSR, and just around right from EITR. double bolt belay. P1 (12m, 22) Rightward leaning corner then crack in face to ledge on left with shrub. P2 (23m, 17) Step back right onto jambed chockstone, up chimney and corner then black slab on right to top.

Start at obvious crack feature. Wind your way up the wall topping out. Crossed by many bolted routes now. Such is progress trampling over the heritage of the trad climber.

The obvious overhanging, leaning crack. An inspiring line and a classic trad test piece.

1. 20m, 25 - Climb the crack to belay at the break or lower off, double bolt belay/chain.

2. 12m, 10 - Traverse right to corner and follow to top.

Route broken into three short pitches with lower offs on the first two. Climbs the right hand end of slabby orange wall and discontinuous corner. Take some medium wires and small to medium cams. 10m left of BUTO

1. 12m, 20, 3 bolts - Step onto wall at conglomerate band and up to large ledge.

2. 12m, 22, 3 bolts - Up technical slab to flake corner past a third bolt to exit up thin crack to ledge.

3. 6m, 17, 1 bolts - Up wall above ledge to top.

Crack line 2 meters left of a deep chimney at the left end of the wall.

Start: From the large ledge.

One of the more varied bits of climbing around. Start up "beat up and thrown out" then follow the steel out right, pumpy and powerful to the top

bring one plate for the glue in carrot or improvise

The corner to the left of Dalek Dick. Only evidence of an ascent is the old carrot bolt at the top for a belay (don't use it you're better off tying off to a bunch of those half burnt scrawny bushes than clipping this thing).

The crack corner under the impressive orange wall with 2 unknown routes on it.

Right hand end of overhang/cave. Up crack to top.

A few meters right of ROTF. Up obvious crack to top.

Low angled corner crack. Start up on scree slope.

The classic route from the 70s. Put up by the pioneers of the area. Just because they don't have a line of stainless drilled up em doesn't mean they're not climbs!

Start: Obvious big black slab around the corner right of 'Snacky Cakes'

Another way old climb that was done before recorded time had begun. Probably by the old cockroach himself (Bill James). PS changed named from Cabrank senile?

Start: At the bottom of the right leaning diagonal ramp which splits the face in this area.

Ascend the face between LMS and the brushy gully. Start at LMS and move slightly right, then straight up. Stay left of the alcove near the LMS anchors. Top out and belay on slung blocks or other gear.

Apologies to G Hill for the name, I don't know what it should be called.

Start: 1 meter left of Little Miss Sunshine

The right route of two up an easy angled black wall.

Start: At the apex of the gully

Up R The D for first three bolts then trend left into the obvious left leading crack. Wires and cams to connect the bolts, finish at the D. rings at the end of the diagonal.

Line up next to the arete past 2 bolts. Makes a good exit route.

Start: At the apex of the gully

The obvious crack left (north) of Prawn Wall. Romp on up the right trending crack with lots of good jams and holds. Pass the tree and anchor from the double bolts at the top of Prawn Wall.

The crack to the right of A. Stuff in a bunch of cams, try not to pull anything off, and up you go.

Start at the obvious diagonal crack on the right end of the LMS slab. There is a very faint '18' painted/chipped into the rock at the start. Climb up 7 meters follow the seam as it diagonals left. Top out, belay on large cams under blocks.

Directly up the crack when you emerge from the chimney walkthrough 15m right of Seafood Tapas and 10m left of Prawn Cracker. Up the crack, trend to the left of a cave then back right and up the face to finish.

2 pitch corner crack on gear. Start at the left end of ledge that splits the cliff, Double bolt belay.

1. Traverse left to stacked blocks, up the corner and exit left to belay.

2. climb up and left to exit left of the leaning crack, bolt.

Start as for Heyday and climb to the stacked blocks, best to belay here. Climb the airy arete on gear (cams) and bolts to the top.

Why not add a trad climb to this gridbolted wall. Named after the second punched herself in the face when a hold let go.

Start 1m right of Roger the emu, up crack with tricky mantle onto the ledge then up easy slabby corner crack. Boulder and gear belay.

The leftward slanting ramp to the left of Emergent. Undoubtedly very similar to the climb near Shelob's tunnel in the Lord of the Rings. Up, up, up the leftwards ramp, then follow the weakness direct to the top.

Fantastic outing in a stellar position. Same start as Heyday. Take the first crack leading to the roof, exit left and follow crack to top.

The corner crack to peapod and overhang. Done in the days before Friends were invented and the hexs rattled out around your ankles as you passed them by. I rather like the newer names.

Start: Corner crack on the left side of the cave structure

Crack climbing so what else is there to say. At base of large trench like crack splitting the left side of the orange wall. Marked with an engraved initial 'T'. Bridge around the crack and through the roof. Follow crack and wall to the top and walk off to belay or rap off a tree.

Why anyone would climb a rotten corner like this i don't know but i have, probably with a good helmet on. And yes we graded it 10.

Start: Two meters right of CL in rotten corner.

start under the leaning crack, all geared up!! all those bottom placements you think you can see are dirty and flaring, so you climb up a bit freak out and down climb a little then do some gardening.. you get decent gear at about 4 mtrs, more nut placements than cams finish up storking pork anchors

Start: ummm. at the bottom of the crack i guess!

One of the original classics from some time b4 the last ice age. An easy wall with good gear. A must for all the Trad Dad's. Now bolted and given 18 in the guide (Mustard?), you be the judge.

Start: Right of SL at short and blocky corner. Under obvious slightly off vertical wall with three cracks in it. You can lower on a 60m rope to the floor with about 5 metres left (if belaying from on the block).

The obvious diagonal crack feature. Good gear and snappy holds will make this a popular trad route.

One of the best climbs at TJF. Great rock up a slightly overhanging wall with lots of bolts and great holds. Start up YMN to the first bolt and then head directly right across slopey seam to join into BEF and finish up this. This is a good way of climbing the route if you want to avoid the boulder problem start of BEF.

Continuously leaning climbing up the entire length of the wall. Four meters of overhang in 20 meters adds the interest.

Start: Off block two meters to the right of Drop Bears.

A weird extension of any of the three short climbs on the orange wall. Depending on the size of your nuts and the amount of faith you have in the lip jug. Climb, leap or fly out to lip after climbing the route below. Tell your belayer not to stand underneath as they might wear the hold. Alternatively; climb the route below to the ledge and stick clip the biner hanging from the chain at the lip. Climb or leap out to the lip and wrestle it and the easy wall to the top.

Another line of inspiring stainless steel that sets this wall apart from all the others i have grid bolted.

Start: Shared start with 'Kurds in the Whey' at the boulder. Straight up - using the left line of bolts.

Start at the left end of the wall, 1m left of Free Bird. Easily up slab to ledge then through more vertical terrain. DBB on generous ledge if you want to practice multi-pitch. Double bolt lower offs.

The sculpted wall hidden in alcove up left of orange face.

Climb the crack of Not Sure until you can branch off to the left and head up into the roof. Hard moves gaining the scoop under the roof then easier to the top.

A fine slab angle wall. Sustained climbing at about grade 19 from mid way up. Use the crack at the first blank bit or just grit your teeth and climb thru it for a better experience, not much harder this way. Graded only for the sustained nature. A confident leader will find it 19 all the way up.

As for Mythical Tomatoes at blocky corner leading to the left side of the ledge at quarter height. Up corner to ledge. Up wall using cracks as necessary to rings at the top.

The best 24 in all 'Nowra'. Stella Bella. Apparently a hold has broken at the start making this quite a bit harder. Grade undetermined.

A good line of bolts kept reasonable by the right hand flake system. Once you get to the fourth bolt you've got it by the balls. If it starts to get desperate higher up just keep grabbing that right leading flake.

Start: Two meters to the left of the arete. And to the right of the pox hole.

First line on the wall as you enter the alley. Nice piece of rock to start then head up the furthest left line of bolts.

These two routes make up some of the best climbing on this wall. A little bit techo and sometimes fancy.

Start: This climb shares the same start as 'The Butchers Brother' 2m left of 'Bunker Bolster' . Up for a couple of bolts then take the right line.

Best rock on the wall, gets better the higher you get. Shares first 2 bolts with 'Roger the Hippo', but when RTH veers left continue straight up.

The right side of the left arete. A little bit of choss to get started through bulge then really sweet climbing all the way to the top.

Start on face of block in front of the wall with the Belgium names. Right hand of the two routes.

The conglomerate seam running thru the start may put you off, but you only use it for two holds. Hard bit is low down where you want all hard bits to be with the rest a jug haul. Soft for the grade!!!! Truely!

Start: Just right of BF a little to the left of the main line of bolts. Can be started direct if you need to add half a grade.

A continuous slightly overhanging wall. Similar climbing to Stairway To Heaven Well protected with shit loads of bolts.

Start: 2 m left of Stairway To Heaven

Shares the same tricky start as the previous route. Once over the start the dyno in the middle may shake you off.

Great climbing. Don't whine too much if the odd bit of rock snaps off your probably doing the only ascent for that year, although things seem to have cleaned up.

Start: At the initial BB in the middle of the wall. Straight Up.

Excellent varied climbing following a leftward trending line of fixed hangers and trad gear. Recently rebolted. At the base of an obvious vegetated corner as for APOYF. The bolts appear to be thin threaded expansion bolts. Up through the ever present conglomerate band to a traverse line left to bush on the nose then straight up open corner avoiding the roof and up to mantle on ledge, Belay.Roped scramble to top.

Left hand end of cliff. Bouldery start and trend left to final overhang

Looks good, climbs good! Start as for APOYF at FH at base of scrubby corner, and follow ring bolts. After the 4thRB take the left line of bolts,, to easier section and up into the beaut orange rock for stunning finish.

Start on the face of the block fronting the main wall left of OFJ.

Nugget stretching bridging leads to the picnic ledge on top of the block. Get someone to chuck up a big yak meal deal before proceeding to the top.

Start: Same as B et F in the corner formed by the block and the wall.

turn right down the runged highway opposite DBDE

Start at Big News Day, heading right at the first break to follow the line of stainless to the anchors. Route name changed at request of first ascentionist

Committing climbing up the wall past little overlaps. There is a loose block at the start. Rad moves !!

Start: Just right of corner.

Approach via abseil. Line of rings up steep wall to top.

Start: Off a small ledge with double ring belay in the scrubby corner above the greenery. Rap in.

4th climb as you go down the hill Start low on the grey face and grunt through the orange overlaps

Not much longer than the routes either side but a little better.

Start: Left of the crack in the middle of the wall.

Next right of Poofs on Hoofs. A bit of slapping required at the bulge and then easy to the top. Route name changed at request of first ascentionist,

Start 1m right of corner. Turn the roof on its right then climb the left wall to single U anchor.

Start in the orange wall off a small boulder.. Easy to second bolt then super techy thin moves to final roof section.

Another bulgy wall with a little less bulge.

Start: Next line left.

Up the dark crimpy slab. Really awesome !! Best of the 3 routes on the dark slab.

classic Hill climbing!

Finish direct up sandy shallow crimps. Will add a grade to the route.

Start at the next line of bolts right of DTB. If you can't sought out the start because of the maze of bolts then figure it out by the grade. Its likely to be harder than 23.

The next one along. Orange slab, to roof flake.

The crack and blunt arete at left end of wall. Originally done as a mixed route, trad crack and bolted upper half, now completely re-bolted. Start: At the crack behind right edge of pillar. Bridge the gap then climb the crack and impressive arete above.

3rd climb as you walk down the hill.. Techy start to juggy finish..

Short and a little bulgy. You could send your grandma up this one.

Start: On separate wall to the left of the gully. Ten meters left of the bulgy wall trilogy.

The right hand of the two routes on the impressive orange wall. Climb Rise of the Feret until you can step out of the corner and onto the line of glue-in rings heading up the wall. Thin, sustained and cryptic. Recently rebolted by Glenn Jones.

Step off block and follow steepening slab.

Shared start with HJ, up ramp past 4RBs to stance. Step right over the void and up corner on perfect white rock until you are forced back on to the face for the crimpy crux, followed by easier ground to anchors at top of cliff.

Action packed steep arête 8m left of The Regular Route. Start off ledge (bolt belay) trending left on conglomerate band to instant exposed arete perched above void. Up technical arete on small shallow pockets and reachy jugs. Pumpy right until the very last move.

Next line of bolts right of the previous project. Again take your pick of the bolts you want to use as the start.

The slab of death, last climb in this sector...

Right side of wall. Up thru the overlaps.

A little longer than its bulging buddy to the right and better.

Start: Two meters left of the short Bulgy wall. On the right side of the overlap.

Recently rebolted the left hand of the two bolted routes on this wall. Amazing climbing through perfect edges to get you nice and high. Super classic and well worth the walk.