Ascents in Onkaparinga

Finally it all came together. A lot of dry fires in the working process. A short but powerful route at its crux. Good to put to rest a route that was labeled unclimbable.

Finally put this route to rest. Took a lot of prep work to be climbable again. Forth bolt is a very awkward clip. Big throw to Gaston move is the first stopper. Then a tricky bold head wall problem using high feet and body tension power laybacks. After that an awkward final clip on the anchor off a block pinch. Psyched to finally piece it all together. Possibly grade 30.

Full value power endurance. Steep start followed by a thin traversing slab. Cut loose lower crux through roof to an interesting reversed traverse sequence across Marlboro. A kneebar rest gets some life back in the arms for a last stopper crux to gain the final head wall. A reds mega.

A marathon of excellence.

2nd Ascent. What a route! The longest and best line at red despite being a linkup, hard and sustained from the roof to the kneebar then the crux at the top. an ultimate test of endurance and mental willpower. Took me a while to realise I wasn’t dreaming at the chains, unreal.

Well 'ard. Threw in the towel last year but feels good now! Did the full crux and all the moves, psyched.

Awesome route, essentially three boulder problems with super interesting movement. Definitely more fitting to a short person with those bunched moves 😆

Top out of cliff

Back again, still the hardest thing I've ever tried to climb, and completely my anti style. New clipping beta has me alot more psyched to sink some time in!

I almost lost my mind in the process but it's finally done! Chuffed to close this chapter after countless sessions of trying and falling at the very top. A great new route that adds full value resistance climbing on top of an already established classic. Thanks for equipping this one Redanon it's a gem! I hate quantifying my experience into a number, but I think 29 is a fair punt, get on it people!

absolutely mega! feeling very stoked on this. haven't frothed this hard in a while

Super happy to clip the chains on this route after being very close for a few weeks. Mega-endurance route, which is definitely my style, with lots of solid climbing where you can fall off anywhere, but no ridiculously hard moves.

A very reachy move which I’m unsure how I’ll work around. Next bit felt cool and balancey around the arete then got my body stuck in the crack roof with no idea how to get out 😂 on a positive note Lust felt easier than when I last climbed it 😀

Victory whip from the anchor is mandatory.

cowardly downclimbed a metre before victory whip. super fun route

O yeah! I’ve just crossed the magic threshold from 7c+ to 8a. The beauty of Top Shelf Material married with an unforgiving finish of Emphysema - stellar! After some regress recently, I finally got it today pretty smoothly 😁.

What a line. Pure class every move. Gain a rest, bust the head wall and fight the pump to clip the chains. EPIC

Somehow the extension makes it easier than lust

Absolutely stunning route. Lots of techie sections linked together, where you can fall at any point, with a stopper move final dyno to the glory jug. Whilst a few people have ticked this route pretty quickly, I ended up spending about 15-20 sessions on it, so it was at my limit, so it felt pretty good to clip the chains today.

Oh wow! I got Greedy today First go after the warm up. Finally good weather conditions, after working it in the heat and baking sun for weeks.

Many rests

This rig well and truly emptied the tank. Smooth to the knee bar rest and managed to get a bit back for the crux. Open hand Pinch felt good but feet picked off and cut loose gaining the 3 finger crimp. Some how held it and fought the head wall to the chains.

This went a lot cleaner today than previous. The crux felt smooth and the head wall felt a lot less desperate.

Pretty cruisy up until trying to hit that crimp! Super powerful move. All the moves done in iso just have to string that boulder problem together, fantastic route

2nd time properly trying this rig, managed to actually pull the crux move fairly comfy this time round, maybe on account of not being hungover. Keen to give it some burns

Managed to finally link the full crux sequence from the rest, twice! Super stoked to make progress on this rig, hopefully won't be too much longer...

Had to pinch myself at the chains to make sure I wasn't dreaming. Honestly had no expectations but stuck the crux fairly comfortably and it was in the bag. Mega route

It only took me 4 years, but it finally went down! Psyche!

Skipped the kneebars and fired straight through the handjams direct.

There's still a more "pure" version of the final crux (around last bolt), which I was originally working on back in 2017/18 that takes the most direct path. Hats off to anyone who can tick it this way.

Definitely feels like 28 to me, potentially 29. The super direct final crux would solidify it at 29 in my mind.

Thanks for all the catches Mr Bill!

Very sustained route. AFI.

back log

A hard fought battle over many many sessions. Whilst there are many ways through the top crux, I couldn't get any of them to work with pumped arms. It took Joanna ticking it to really focus the mind and become one with the rock and got the tick the next go! Nothing better than a double-tick day after a few weeks of wet rock.

My most incredible ascent! It took several months to figure out the crux through the final roof. Today it was my first go and glory one It must have stirred up Paul as he sent it just after me There's nothing better than a double tick!

Some key crux beta from Toby got me over the line, psyched to eventually get this one done!